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So it's not "Formula 1" but "Formula tyre management" then?

Finally got round to replacing my 10yo 130k Galaxy family shifter, for our second Skoda (Mrs has a yeti). After 7 years with the Galaxy it's time to try something different.

Hypermiling an F1 car Maybe mix it up with lego motor racing cars and my dad in his Honda jazz, after all what's the point of nearly 1,000bhp if you want to drive it like a 1.4 diesel??

F1 announce new global sponsor "Formula One Autocentres" who will guarantee all four tyres replaced during the race in under 15 minutes to spice up the on track action.

Job well done Here is mine...

Could it not be the constant velocity joint in the drive shaft? You get a knocking sound from those when turning left or right at slow speed especially on full lock? If the gaiter isn’t split, it may not get picked up in a MOT? They can dry out after time.

I think you missed my joke

In the style of Jim from Friday Night Dinner.... "Hello All....." It's been a while, nearly 12 months in fact since I gave a proper update, it's been a busy old year. We moved house mid November 2019, not far, less than 2 miles in fact but we have gone from renting to owning again after a few years. Needless to say, the house that was pretty much perfect, move straight in etc has occupied every single hour of spare time and money and the poor car has sat under cover in the new garage. Good news is the house is pretty much finished and the enforced COVID-19 lockdown period has allowed me to finish 5 years worth of house DIY in 6 months! Some of you may remember the slightly bigger garage at the new house, in fact it's a usable large tandem garage that has been significantly enhanced in the period we have been here. I have insulated the roof, plasterboarded, 7x new 6' Twin LED lights, cut and installed a large double glazed window where there was a plain wall, new composite door to the patio as well as grinding the whole concrete floor by hand before laying a screed of Ardex K301 concrete floor compound. Oh yeah and a new electric roller door. The plan was to build a lovely space to keep the car / cars and have a well lit, warm and dry place to do detailing & maintenance, so I have fitted the end of the garage out with units and worktop/tiles to finish it off. Here is how the garage looked to start with.. Fast forward many months of graft, DIY injuries, late nights, early mornings and we're nearly finished now... Coupled with the internals, we have had the front of the house changed, new driveway, fences, as well as rear decking - and I though cars could absorb money.... Upshot is, if anyone's still reading, is that i'll be back on the car soon, getting some more part from TPS the weekend so I've no excuse now to get stuck into it. Just need to Epoxy resin coat the garage floor first.... Thanks for reading! Matt

Hi all, been a while but this is my car currently. But undergoing some major changes come October.

Let’s us know how you get on!

Hi, my Superb has a normal USB in the centre box and I use this for my music stick John

If you get a 90 degree usb adaptor (See Amazon £5.99 for two), you can hide a usb drive ( or in my case an iPod ), in the cubby hole and close the sliding cover?

On a wide, flat area (empty car park?) try turning tight circles in both directions at relatively slow speed - often get the CV joint noise on one lock only.

I don't recall the demo car i drove making any gearbox noises, my Leons were all 7spd 3x 1.6tdi and 1x 1.2tsi. You'd never hear anything over the diesel engine noise but the 1.2 was super quiet. I guess I'll have to try and get another drive in a demonstrator and see how that is.

Should do as that after the changeover to MY21 spec.

Dunno, but ebay has plenty. Not recommending this supplier per se (good feedback numbers though), but these came up easily enough on a search for "m14 x 35 radius seat" or something along those lines: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-x-wheel-bolts-M14-x-1-5-Radius-Seat-35mm-Thread-length-17mm-Hex/252591760289?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D5770829ea498418db5e1d2af69431d4d%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D264525367038%26itm%3D252591760289%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598

@J500ANT Welcome to the forum. Best try another the same as yours and compare. Really you should not be hearing a whine or much in the way of changing gear. Where any of your previous DSG's DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch ones. Not that that mean hearing noises is OK, but they are different from a Wet Clutch DSG, & then you are now in a 3 cylinder car which again is different.

There shouldn't be any need to deviate from the recommended pressures.

Remember being at Silverstone in 1994 and before Schuey and Hill collided on track later the lunchtime entertainment was a Renault Espace MPV with a Renault V10 F1 engine in the back screaming away with massively fast gearchanges going down the pit straight. The sight and noise I will never forget and it still makes me giggle now how absurd it was and much faster than the earlier V8 Cosworth Ford Supervan.

You are probably correct as usual because having owned and mapped a 2013 Mk3 Octavia with the 150PS diesel engine (147bhp on the rollers at AmD) it went to 186bhp and torque went from 246lb/ft to a mammoth 317lb/ft it was just as smooth after the map and economy only dropped from a best of 71mpg standard to 70mpg afterwards.

I think the only difference will be in the ECU tuning where the 150PS will produce maximum power at 3,500rpm and the 190PS will produce maximum power at 4,000-4,200rpm. So low down they will feel very similar.

Don't you hate it when your thread header gets "autocorrected"

Yeah, I get that and wouldn't want to get seat covers for exactly that reason. 'My seats are lovely... but I can't see them'. Although, again, I do appreciate it when a garage puts them on when a guy in greasy overalls sits in the car. For the sake of protecting them for a short period, it makes sense. For the odd unusual journey, who really cares if the car looks hideous while you're sat on the motorway for 8 hours? You don't have to look at the car for the duration of that journey and you then don't have to bother getting chips sorted. Yes, I wouldn't want to have my car look awful on my drive or every day in the work car park. But do I care what it looks like when the only people who see it are a load of people in other cars I don't know and will never see again? No, not really.

Thanks, I will order these as I ony have A to C capbles.

They are available in 235/245/255 head sizes or small if they are too large.

It looks a bit hideous, however I can see the point for long trips. If you drive around town most of the time and you have pretty decent paintwork, it makes sense to stick something on for the annual 1000 mile round motorway trip and protect the paint. They're used all the time in the US as people cover so many miles and largely on freeways etc. Less so in the UK. I wouldn't have one on permanently, but don't see the harm in protecting the paint if you think you're likely to damage it. I mean, a rain mac is hideous, but I'd rather wear one and stay dry than think I look cooler without one and ultimately end up drenched and looking worse....

Nick I'm waiting for the advice from the Cheerleaders Association who are doing a sale at the moment on bobble hats if you're interested.

I had two X-Trails previously. Like the Kodiaq, power normally goes to the front wheels but it can send power the rear wheels if it detects the fronts are slipping. Nissan use an electromechanical clutch rather than the hydraulic Haldex. I'll find out which is better in a couple of weeks!

Which of the "big 6" were doing the best price for, say, 10_000 of $size that month?

From the owners manual

Plasti Dip would work too.

Have a set of 850Ps ready to go on rims in the next few weeks. Will report back in 8 months or so. Just need these: added to these: then Skippy’s ready for her first Highland winter.

I'm very new to the Kodiaq but on my previous 4wd cars there was a limit of 2-3mm difference in tread between front and rear. Any more than that could (allegedly) cause excessive wear to the front/rear differential and confuse the power split of the 4wd system. Does that apply to Skoda's Haldex-based 4wd?

Not sure what you mean by "internal" but here is one answer. When I have watched tyres being balanced the machine not only shows the 'o'clock' position but also where 'side to side' the weight should be placed. Modern wheels being so wide makes this necessary. tom

I was not expecting it here

Local news site saying today that it's to be replaced with a petrol version, likely the 272 from the Superb: https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-news/2022-skoda-kodiaq-rs-facelift-to-ditch-diesel-in-australia How awesome would a Kodiaq VRS petrol be... slap on a hybrid IS38 and you have yourself a 450hp SUV

Just to clarify things - OBDII and OBDEleven are two different things. OBDII is the diagnostic standard - you can buy cheap OBDII dongles on eBay (the ELM327 clones), some of which don't play nicely with certain apps. Torque is one app that can talk to the car using these dongles and reset engine codes (not individual module codes), and read certain diagnostic data. OBDEleven is a specific dongle that uses their own app, but it can talk to every module in your car, activate special functions (possibly the light adjustment, but you'd need to clarify this on their own forum), clear codes out of any modules, do long coding and adjust adaptations. Carista is a similar dongle that uses it's own app, but I haven't used it so can't comment.

There's a direct connection from switch to motor when the switch is in position 4, max fan speed, so that would seem to rule out the resistor as the probable fault. You've checked the fuse, presumably?

This is why I love this forum!!! Thanks Frenchtone, easy once you know how. I quite expected the pin at the back to be broken but it wasn't so goodness knows how it got round that way - it took a bit of effort to get it back in position. And thank you to Brian for sympathy.

Which is why your car is tuned, yes?

So without going too much into detail: I'm on my second 1.0TSI. The first was a late 2016 model, no GPF, one of the first in Finland. The new one has a GPF and is a kombi, not a hatch. I did not use spritmonitor for the first one. The 2016 car improved significantly in consumption after the 10-15000km mark, and was consistently able to give me 5,6l or so as a long term average. This despite cold temps, winter tyres and traffic on the regular commute. I hit a personal best of 4,2 one trip up to the summer house - the only reason that was possible was because I was driving 60km/h for a bunch of it. Speed makes a signficant difference. Opinion: the only reason that insane record could have been set in the 1.x TSI is because the traffic is flowing at a slow speed. Minimal stops, starts, acceleration or braking. So the DSG drops it into the highest gear possible and it rumbles along. Octy vs. Superb: the Superb does a theoretical 5.2l/100. Both the Octavias have a theoretical number at 4.8 or so. But the Superb is a DSG. That should deliver better numbers than a manual shift. I was expecting a certain amount more, that's fair enough. But over 6l/100 - I think I ended up with 6.6l/100 - in comparison to a normal 5.3 for the Octy on the clear runs to the office with winter tyres on and up north - no, that was a chunk more that I was very surprised to see. I've read a tale on the German forums of someone hitting 1000km on a single tank in a Superb 1.4. I was looking to that and not 800. I absolutely see the point in the small engine. It's cheaper to buy. It's cheaper to insure and it's cheaper to fuel. If someone's on a shoestring budget for a new-ish car, stretching for something which is going to cost more to run is counterproductive. Yes, it's more desirable. Is it really going to matter if resale isn't for another five-six years? Especially if there's finance involved at higher interest rates, that £1-2k on purchase can make a massive difference in affordability. Having said that, I agree that a test drive - preferably full! - is important. Better still would be one back-to-back. But the roof box will make a big difference so it can only be a guide. - Bret

For you, yes, but then why spend time and effort posting on EV threads?

Give it to Leepu and it will lol! Otherwise definitely not.

Surely this sensor is detecting tilt of the car relative to the local surface that the car finds itself on, not tilt relative to true horizontal? @J.R. is that the sentence you meant? It's the third?

@Alex-W, I'm curious what percentage of your car's performance you would estimate you use on public roads? I would guess I use less than 40% of my 1.4tsi performance potential 99% of the time, and that is driving at whatever the speed limit is. Hell, I reckon I only drive at less than 60% of my 2003 Toyota Echo 1.3 naturally aspirated. I was stopped for speeding in it about a year ago and I had only reached 3300 rpm in 2nd gear (that's 50kph!) and somehow got off with a caution. The OP has a growing young family and has indicated the 1.4tsi option might not be as affordable as a 1.0tsi and I think that is a reasonable and responsible approach to his family's transport needs. I also think the 1.0tsi will be more than adequate on public roads but the OP should get a test drive to confirm whether it would meet his expectations.

I’m confused as to how we got to borderline uploading PDFs of our wage slips in here.

There is an unfortunate tendency amongst the 'fuelmisers' (and I include myself) to emphasise the best attained figures so those 60+mpg figures would probably be achieved on a long run. Real life, which includes local short runs, drag down actual averages and in brettikivi's locality he gets severe adverse winter conditions and extensive use of the pre-use engine heater, which also burns fuel. I've followed brettikivi's consumption reports for years and I'd say his two 1.0tsi have been consistently 5+ mpg better than I would expect to achieve with my 1.4tsi at a given speed set speed between 100 to 120 kph. Strangely, at lower average speeds the difference is less clear, but there may be other factors involved there. Regrettably the 1.0tsi Octavia has never been available in Australia otherwise I would probably have bought one although it would also have to be a manual because I agree with you that they are generally more economical although that may not be as true on a run as the DSG box's have a longer top gear. Re-reading the OP's requirements I still think the 1.0tsi would meet his requirements although in those situations with the full family load and the top box in hilly conditions then the extra torque from the 1.4tsi could be useful. Either way the OP will not get 60 mpg in those conditions but I'd expect ~40mpg (main problem being drag from the roof box).

Might aswell protect the rear aswell 👍