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Gloss Metallic Chameleon Purple Blue wrap using Teckwrap USA . The metallic chameleon finish brings out the muscular lines of the Superb and accentuates the side profile spectacularly as well.

Apart from accidentally joining adjacent pins there's very little that you can do that would make matters worse; and that's easily reversed with a bit of solder wick.

Makes sense. But that was not what i was trying to convey. Then again, English is not my native languages. Please forgive me for my occasional clumsy phrasing.

I fixed the fuel gauge on a workmate's Fabia at lunchtime by reflowing the joints on the infamous green connector of the cluster. Couldn't see anything wrong with the naked eye even assisted by reading glasses; but under the microscope I could see 8 or 10 joints that had cracked and showed movement when waggled.

Diamond Cut? Realistically you're looking at a refurb wheels off & milled at around £100 - £120. Some places will offer a repair - when I was looking around I could only find one place willing to do anything remedial on such wheels and even then they couldn't guarantee the finish etc. Otherwise, consider getting all 4 wheels powder coated instead - for the cost of 2 refurbs you could almost certainly get all 4 powder coated and that also means cheaper remedial work for if/when you curb them again. I've currently got two 19" Diamond Cut wheels with curb damage - excellent condition second hand wheels are few and far between, new wheels are silly money - so may well go the powder coat route.

I think the video was suggesting there MAY be some wires at the bottom of the screen to heat the glass where the windscreen wipers rest (so they will be unfrozen quickly should you try to use the wipers when they're frozen to the glass). Whether these are present on the Karoq we will have to wait to see.

The green line uses sports suspension.

I thought it was only found on Yeti's fitted with the factory sunroof. Doesn't it open the plug to drain the footwells?

My next car is planned to be a Fabia DSG estate too. A sad loss. I don't want/need a large car like a Kamiq. A Fabia Estate meets my requirements perfectly. Needless to say, I don't follow fashion or trends! I prefer practicality.

The technique I employed when fitting mine was to gradually increase the vulgarity of the swear words I aimed at it until it gave in. Eventually worked although the neighbours did get an ASBO served on me 😁

- Demon Foam - Rinse - Turtlewax Ceramic Wash and Wax - Rinse - Dry - Autoglym Super Resin polish - Buff - Chrome Northwest Embellish quick detailer - Buff - Turtlewax Ceramic Spray Coat - Buff - Admire

Gloss Metallic Chameleon Purple Blue wrap using Teckwrap USA . The metallic chameleon finish brings out the muscular lines of the Superb and accentuates the side profile spectacularly as well.

Finally got round to replacing my 10yo 130k Galaxy family shifter, for our second Skoda (Mrs has a yeti). After 7 years with the Galaxy it's time to try something different.

Hi all, been a while but this is my car currently. But undergoing some major changes come October.

Hello everyone. My fabia 1.2 tdi is now 5 years old and i have done some mods to my little car. I would love to hear your opinion and of course recommendations for something else maybe? So the things i have changed: - remap from 75hp to 102hp (230 torque) - multimedia navi screen - Central arm rest - interior leds - front mask painted black - front and back logo painted black - led drls - black painted tail lights - red painted brake calipers - tinted windows - shark type antenna - upgraded exhaust - black painted side turn signals I was thinking of making front headlights and fog lights darker either Paint or tint. Is there anything else you would recommend me to do? Thank you 🤙🏼 Also i have ordered new car seat covers with skoda logo on it. I will post photos in some days as well 🤙🏼.

Time to change front brake disks and brake pads. I always had thoughts that my 340mm kit from 280hp Superb is a bit on heavy side. 340mm ATE vented disk Caliper with pads And I decided to assemble kit with better braking characteristics and lighter. So , I took Brembo calipers from Renault Megane 3 RS 275hp Brackets to fit 354mm disk My favourite brake pads + few grams for pins and springs. Brake disk temporary took EBC simple vented , as two peace cost to much for test. This EBC rotor weight 11.800kg Plan is to migrate to two peace rotor later on. ECB tuning 345x30 two peace rotor weight 8.500kg. Ideally some forged wheels later on as well. But will need to rob a bank first Brembo DOT5.1 purchased as well. This calipers better to run on 5.1. In theory everything have to be bolt on , but this is what I think might not be the case, have a filing that bolts a bit to long, but when I install my new brakes , will put here step by step guide for ANY MQB car

But you have lost 9" in height!!!!

They are already black with brake dust! If I leave the wheels long enough I wont have to lift a finger or spend any money!!

Hello All First thanks for the advice and reassurance that the Edition 100 gear lever can be replaced with the Superb Elegance model. Thanks to KKBC and all of you posting bits and bobs about it. The Tiptronic button on my gear selector got a bit wobbly, and by not listening to the elders and wise ones from this forum (it’s not will it, it's when it will go) I got myself in a bit of a pickle. Gear selector got stuck on to the P position and no budging. Option_1 £427 Inc. VAT from TPS for non-trading sale of original Edition 100 Tiptronic. 2-5 weeks waiting as no part is available in the UK Option_2 £100 Inc. VAT from local small garage for the Superb Elegance model, still 1-2 weeks waiting as no part is available in UK with no guarantee from them that it will fit as per ETKA 3U2713319C (original Edition 100) showing not compatible or replaceable part The wise and good people from this forum confirmed that the Elegance model is compatible with the Edition 100 and I did order it, replaced it, and I hope following details can be useful to somebody else Original Edition 100 part 3U2 173 319 C (too expensive by a mile) Superb elegance part 3U2 713 319 A NED (black and not so bad looking) Here are some pictures of parts and of the wobbly button as a warning to replace your gear lever on time. Best zoka Thanks

Thanks m8 Realy greatfull that you found the time to replay to my email and for the advice given, not everybody on this forum is as skilfull as rotodiesel, and some other esteamed members Drive safe KKBC Best Zoka

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

So these were driving me crazy, barely a year on them and rusted pretty bad (Pagid). Wheel off. Sand with wire brush and drill, very quick and effective. Paint on anti rust, dry for 15 mins. Spray. Clean and de-tar inside wheel. Copper grease hub. Refit wheel. Beer!

Need these....

Thanks for the ideas. I would look forward to it. The car unit is an android unit from ebay with 2gb ram. I have installed agama launcher so it makes it cooler as you can chose the skoda logo.

I had a DSG that when in the surprisingly hilly Isle of Wight on a very hot summer the box started to squeal on take off. It sounded very like a clutch release bearing problem to me common in the old days from resting a foot on the clutch. Back in flat Essex it went away. A mechanic actually showed me a bearing and it looked like a sintered metal pre-oiled device and I wonder if it ran a bit dry for a time.

I should pop in, Port Edgar is only 20min away.

Yes 100%

Have a look here I bought this for my 7 seat - when I planned to remove the seats - to make boot bigger for the dogs http://www.boot-buddy.com/skoda/kodiaq-2017-present-5-seat-model-with-space-saver-spare-wheel-without-variable-boot-floor In the end - I decided to keep the Dog car - instead of subject the new one to the dogs.... so its still in the box - along with boot floor and dog guard - for when I change my mind at some point in future again But this is the best I could find. They do multiple options

Sounds normal behaviour. The DSG relies on your throttle input. If you put your foot down it will drop down the gears to the right one for the right speed etc. Equally if you don't use the pedal that much it will go up the gears very quickly for economy. The throttle pedal is deceiving as it is incremental and designed for economy. It gives you a delayed /vague response but you can get that changed to linear if you have vcds or obdeleven. You can also check the control units and easily adapt your throttle aswell yourself.

Well the later 272 with gpf

Finally got time to install everything. Here is the result. Sorry , car is not clean yet. Clearance between wheel and caliper is good huge. Unfortunately there are only two offsets - 35 and 48mm. Mine set is 35 , and I am afraid that 48mm might not work without spacer. Just not to do double work , I did install short-shifter today as well. Brakes, even not bedded, working great. Short-shifter allows me to shift gears with fingers only , without need to move arm from armrest.

And I would add no cd and no cassette

Not a picture of the complete car, but the cleaned enginebay instead. 😀 Also the newly installed hood dampers and the lid for the washerfluid. 👌 I am really happy how it looks now. 😊

I’m pleased with the results 👌 Custom Stage 1 tune by a local company.

Hi, you've mentioned a few times of rough / bad roads - Just how rough and bad? Could the car not be suited to your requirements. Having had the (misfortune) to have a Megane as a company car for nearly 3 years and owning an Octavia Scout, i way preferred the Octavia by a country mile. Far more comfier and nicer to drive (for me). I never had an issue with the rain sensors, i found them to be very good and like the fact you can easily adjust the sensitivity from the wiper stalk whereas other manufacturers such as MINI you have to go into an overly complicated menu on the trip computer to change. No issue with aerodynamics either, even at speed it was fine, yes if you drop a rear window at 70mph it will sound horrific, but thats the same with the majority of cars - maybe get some window deflectors as this may help (to a degree). Just counting the last 4 cars I have owned, all needed new batteries within 6 years, my last Oct 3 Scout only lasted 4 years. You shouldn't need new shocks at 88k, has anyone inspected them thoroughly to check for misting, leaks etc? Have you done a bounce test and pressed down hard on wing to see how many times the car appears to bounce before it settles? If they are that shafted then id be looking to replace both shocks and springs & bumpstops. Agree with the windows being partially open when shutting doors (certainly on the front), the glass seemed to rattle.

Yes... all done! It took me almost 2hrs though, sorting out rusty screw and worn screws etc. I've managed to crack 1 or 2 clips, but nothing major. The only thing is that the top case is slightly out of line when refitting it. I might have another go at it another time). However, the indicator LED light is now fitted and working absolutely fine! Many thanks for all the advice and suggestions. Very helpful indeed! 😊👍

Since I am on here updating my Monte Carlo thread I felt I should update this one aswell. Where to start? For a while now I had been suspecting that the headgasket was gone because over the course of a few days it would lose coolant randomly. However,I found out just the other day that it is just some hose that looks to be going to the heater core which is spitting "coolant" out. Also,I noticed the oil cap was spitting oil out and noticed it was missing its rubber seal. I just so happened to have a cheapo Oil and Coolant cap set off of eBay I was initially going to put on the Monte Carlo but wasnt happy with. Happily however,It hasnt leaked since. On the topic of stealing stuff I have earmarked for the Monte Carlo,I got a pair of badges for the bonnet and boot of it. Since my boot badge is in fine enough condition I just took it and put it on whats left of the grille of this car.Granted,They are just cheap Wish badges but I'm contented with the results. Finally, My drivers side spring,which had already snapped a coil off before,decided to lose another coil. I can't properly describe the massive clang that went through the car as the spring went, I could feel it snap. Yes,the orange rus****er is what should be distilled water. I got most of it flushed out by now so Im not worried.

I would just like to say a big thank you to langers2k for helping me out with the settings for my puddle lights. Very much appreciated for your time and effort. Cheers

Black emblems will be here this week!

This project came to the final stage. Tested callipers with ET45 wheels I have and failed. So I decided to put brand new Sparco Asseto Gara. J8xR18 ET35. So I will use the same tires. Sparco wheels are 2.3 Kg lighter than my current Extreme replicas Wheel design and high ET gives a lot of clearance for brake calipers When I waited new alloys my new light two peace CEIKA brake rotors arrive. I expected them in 2 month time , but CEIKA was unbelievably quick. New disk are 345x30x50 and more than 2Kg lighter that solid 340x30x50. Fully assembled Brembo calipers with brakepads , brackets and bolts weight 5kg sharp. "Standard" calipers from 340mm Skoda Superb brakes weight 9.3Kg Here is few more pictures of CEIKA beauty. Hopefully next photos will be of Installed alloys - brakes. Rotors are directional with cooling

That's cheaper than mine 😉

Job well done Here is mine...

Eibach Pro Kit fitted in the last hour so I suspect the car will drop another couple of mills. on first impressions, I’m really happy with the results!

What options you've got when you've just washed it and spot an almost empty, closed parking?!

Or clouded lenses. The amount of cars I see with yellowed lenses is unreal. All I can say is that the owners must eat a lot of carrots 🥕

Hi All, Big update! Slight change of plans with regards to the sub, and I decided I didn't want to lose the boot space, so cancelled the order for the Match sub and went for a custom-fit enclosure & Focal RSB-250 sub. Focal don't make a grille so the bars were just a cheap job from Amazon. Didn't get any pics of the enclosure, but the quality is amazing, and it arrived within a few days from Poland for a sniff over £90.00...don't know how they do it, but here's the link for anybody interested: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/173036155328?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=173036155328&targetid=908661247816&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006636&poi=&campaignid=10199631325&mkgroupid=103626356284&rlsatarget=pla-908661247816&abcId=1145987&merchantid=101742229&gclid=CjwKCAjw57b3BRBlEiwA1Imyts1hpIWvKJCveT81B7VLG6OKFD4-50S3p1VHdB9Q1K4WEHNoE5HvPRoCCQQQAvD_BwE Dual voicecoil wiring to bring the impedance down to 2 ohms: Some Dynamat on the rear panel - a bit of wadding also went in as the driver's meant for a 20 litre enclosure, but the enclosure's on 15 litre. You can also see where I removed the terminal panel and used some silicone sealant to completely seal it; the front panel is made from two sheets of MDF, so also needed a tiny bead of sealant along the edges, and speaker gasket foam tape around the lip: Driver in, and grille on, and the job's done: I was lucky to get the use of a friend's carport over the last week, which was great as it meant I could work on it in the rain, and not have to worry about rushing to put it back together in a hurry, so now was the time to work on sound-deadening the rear quarter panels and wheel arches. Pay attention to the two pieces of grey foam behind and next to the seat belt reel, as these are obviously there to block noise from the void entering the cabin. Neither of these were seated correctly on either side so weren't really doing anything; I wonder if this could be the problem for those suffering with a boomy boot? There's also another piece inside the area of the wheel arch and outer panel quarter skin, again these weren't seated correctly. I'll add this info to the thread on the main Octavia 3 section. Getting there: And the final touch; Hobbycraft's finest "soft toy filling" to fill the voids: I didn't get any pictures, but also put Dynamat on the inside front of the wheel arches, and filled the space with soft toy filling; this is the area covered by the big plastic trim in between the doors and the rear seat backs. Also thanks to @JohnnyType2 for the great idea of running the sub cable down the centre console and cutting a hole in the carpet to run it down the transmission tunnel and pop out under the rear seat bench - very easy, and much nicer than trying to remove all the trim around the bottom of the doors I'm sure. Not content with just doing the inside, my buddy had a few sheets of Silent Coat left over from another project, and as there was the space and a set of axle stands kicking about, the rear wheels and arch liners came off, and the outer arches also got some treatment: The difference this has made is crazy...there's virtual silence from the rear of the car at 30-40mph, and sooooo much quieter and serene at motorway speeds. The only problem is that it now sounds like the engine & road noise from the from the front has increased 🤣 Considering how easy it was to deaden the rear arches, I'll do the front sometime soon. And all back together; my buddy had some sorbothane (isolating material) washers, which work by being under compression, so there are two of these at the bottom of the sub between it and the mounting points, and then at the top of the sub where it clips into the car trim - we cut the washers into section, straightened them and pushed them into the space - the sub is extremely rigid in there, but also decoupled so doesn't rattle at all! The pic isn't very forgiving with the difference between the original carpet and that on the sub, but it doesn't look that different in the flesh...and it's in the boot, so I don't care as I'm not going to be looking at it 😉 The only thing I have to do now is sort a couple of rattles in the front doors; both doors are doing it in the same place at the top, near the back where the door card is split and stuck together where the LED lights trip is. I think some hot glue and foam padding should cure that, as when I push that area with my hand the rattles stop. Having the sub in has allowed me to roll the low frequencies off form the front speakers, which has opened them up considerably. I've currently got the crossover point set at 100hz, after playing about with it at 80 & 120hz. I've also experimented with muting the rear speakers and just going with the fronts + sub, which sounds so much better. I think due to the position of the rear speakers (the tweeter's much closer to your head than the front speakers and points backwards), then it smears the image and sounds all phasey - I've checked and double-checked the wiring, and flipped phase live in the amp's software and it just doesn't sound anywhere near as good with the rear speakers enabled. This isn't a problem, as I hardly ever have rear passengers, and it also gives me the ability to remove the passive crossovers from the front speakers, and configure the amp to run them actively with all four channels. I'm probably going to remove the rear speakers, pop the originals back in just to fill the holes, then I have a spare set of Focals just in case...this system goes loud now 😈 I think in the short term, I'll do some measurements with the mic and real time analyser and tweak the amp's EQ settings and see how it goes from there! If you've made it this far, then thanks for reading! Nick