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The wheels are certainly dividing opinion but I’m of the thought that I’ll run with them for a year, then can always change the colour again... tonight has seen only some mild tinkering, I got all the boot plastics out of storage, built everything back up, cleaned all the boot latch with small detail brushes and Surfex HD. I then dug out a rare set of genuine Skoda accessory boot bags, and a new genuine Skoda boot liner. In readiness for the big start up, I’ve put 2x Jerry cans of Shell V-Power Diesel in the tank, connected all the fuel pump wiring back up (it’s been disconnected ever since I had the tank out to do the floor resto..) so we can connect the battery and cycle the fuel pump and check for leaks. I’m going to pull the glow plugs out next week and put some oil down onto the piston tops, let it sit for a while then crank the engine over from the bottom pulley. Reason for this is the engine has been sat in the car for over two years now, and hasn’t spun at all apart from the initial turning over by hand. Just want to make sure nothing is stuck or overly dry in the block. more soon

Shy I live in one of the highest areas of the country so it’s downhill to the motorway but there’s no way around the uphill part getting back which just destroys any good work I do on the motorway to get over 30mpg. I also work 12 hour shifts days and nights leaving before 6am so don not want to spend any longer on the damn motorway than I have to hence I cruise at 80 usually to keep moving past not traffic (apart from the dreaded 50 camera zone), don’t particularly use full power acceleration much unless it’s for a lane overtake. We all just have different driving styles plus 6 gears vs 7 will put me at a disadvantage. Can’t remap as in warranty (and not willing to entertain the idea while true). my biggest problem is not resisting using the power to create a gap when someone else is sitting on my arse after the 50 zone ends...

https://www.onlyrevo.com/blog/revo-updates-on-tuning-the-bosch-md1-and-mg1-ecu/ I wouldn't trust other companies when Revo and other very well known companies are struggling to map certain ECUs. Some early 1.5s can be mapped as they're on different ECUs

I was considering an Aygo as well, just could not find the right one. In the end I kept it simple, 2008 Fiesta, 1.25, only 49, 500 miles, and is in really good condition, with excellent MOT history. Was going to pay more for a newer car but some of the history was shocking, so paid less but for a decent car. Will give it an extra service soon but I hope it will last me a while. Hope you find a decent car.

The car needs to be confident that it has enough charge in the battery to restart. If you've only been taking short journeys, perhaps it isn't. Taking a long drive could well solve the problem (if you're allowed to without driving round and round Rhyl) or alternatively just be happy that you've got a car that all the owners who curse Stop/Start would love to have!

All cars are a compromise. You can't tow a caravan with a Ferrari! I bought the Yeti 9 years ago because I wanted a smallish 4x4 for rural winter driving as I'd moved house & commute to work on untreated roads at 5am. I've driven hot hatches & later quick turbo diesels for the first 20+ years of my driving career, but loved the Yeti when it came out. The fact that it was based on the vastly improved Golf 5/6 platform made it a definite shortlister. I was blown away by the interior quality too, but mostly how well it drove. The only thing that came close was the Kuga back then, & I tried all the Yeti's main rivals, & it was head & shoulders above the rest. The fact that the 170tdi 4x4 Elegance was ideally specced for my needs & was roughly £2k cheaper than it's rivals was the icing on the cake. The only reason I fitted the Eibachs wasn't to modify it but because I had a rear spring snap & I also had leaks on the front struts. I'd also used Eibachs before on an Alfa 156 & they transformed that car immeasurably without compromise, so it can be done. The Eibachs were also a fair bit cheaper than genuine standard Yeti springs & the combination of Eibachs & Bilstein B4s give the same normal road ride quality as standard, better infact over really sharp bumps & potholes, the Bilsteins are better quality & the damping feels more sophisticated than the standard dampers. The only compromise is I've lost about an inch of ground clearance, but as I don't do any more off-roading than normal farm tracks, it doesn't affect my requirements of the car, so it's perfect for my needs. As I'm oldish & we live in a low risk area, insurance with mods declared (including the stage 1 remap) is never more than £240 fully comp with protected NCB, so even that's not really a big compromise. The car's done 132K 100% mechanically reliable miles, 80k on the remap & economy is about 5% improved over standard, so once again, no compromise.

Have a look at the thread titled Campaign 60E3 from 26 June. I had exactly the same problem - carpets and sound proofing/underfelt completely soaked. The car went in for the 60E3 with me assuming the sunroof would be the problem, but as it turned out, there was a gap somewhere in the sealant between the bulkhead and wing area. Upshot of all this was new carpets all round, all done under warranty. So far so good, but it is strange that the problem took 2 1/2 years to manifest itself.

Gone rather off the original topic. I have 4 all seasons tyres. Because the grip characteristics are different from summer tyres, I'd not care to try 2 of each type in the colder months. It could be as bad as mixing radials and cross plies. Not saying, just a thought experiment.

Try changing these: Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion B 16 --> Abbiegelicht links Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion B 17 --> Abbiegelicht rechts Keep the existing changes you've already made. I'm pretty new to the MQB platform but I'm pretty sure that'll do what you want. I assume you have LED front fog lights?

I just took a quick look at the wiring diagrams for the stock stereo setup. In the standard setup, the speakers connect directly to the internal amplifier in the head unit through an ISO connector in the quad lock. Each corner gets +/- which is connected to the woofer in the door. The woofer has the crossover built in and the tweeter is connected directly to that in the door. The optional amplifier takes the 8 speaker lines from the ISO connector and does its thing from there.

Apparently I'm only allowed to upload limited photos here. So text it is. Bought a standard front bumper for £20. Also got new bottom arms. Console Bush's, ball joints and drop links. All to go on. Still need some springs and top mounts. But there you go. Can't have it all at once. I've been speaking to my friend who wraps cars. I've decided on a green similar to the MK2 vrs fabias and a black roof. With black wheels of some description. I hope it will stand out but also look close to OEM. It's what I'm going for. OEM plus if you will.

Hi Nicco The exhaust inspection light comes on to tell you that the vehicle emissions may be exceeding the standard. This could be caused by a variety of different faults, the fault code(s) will be logged (even if the light goes off again) and can be read/reset. A proper VAG code reader will often give more detail than a generic one. Modern diesels use the glow plugs for cold starting, but also to reduce emissions by turning them on when the engine is lightly loaded and not producing enough heat on its own. So their function is individually monitored by the ECU, and a glow plug which draws too much or too little current will be flagged up. I don't know if the Yeti flags up a general glow plug fault or if it can pinpoint which plug is faulty. Apart from using the ECU and fault code interrogation, glow plugs can be tested in situ. A simple ohmmeter is better than nothing ( a reading of about one ohm is typical ), but a specialist diesel workshop will have a glow plug tester. This applies enough test current to get the glowplug realistically hot, which can show up intermittent faults that an ohmmeter can't. Assuming you have a faulty glowplug, you need to get it replaced. It's often advised to replace all of them, on the basis that if one fails the others won't be far behind. However, as your garage have hinted, replacement can be problematic. Engine development has led to the adoption of long, slender plugs. After a few years, these can be seized in place due to corrosion and carbon buildup. An experienced mechanic armed with the right penetrating lubricant, heat and patience can often succeed in getting them out. An impatient or ham fisted one can easily shear off the relatively weak hollow top and you enter a world of pain. At this point, most garages (even main dealers) will pass the work over to a mobile specialist who can drill the plug out without damaging the head, using a battery of special jigs and tools. This could take over an hour per plug, so the attraction of replacing all of them begins to wane. From the above, you can see that the stakes are high, and you need to be certain that a glow plug really is the cause of your problem before going down the replacement road. The plugs are cheap enough, it's the labour that's the killer !

Skoda are good at paint marking the terminals for factory torque setting confirmation. Check if the bolts are painted and it’s still in line across adjacent components. Also, the battery will have a date code on it, VARTA is week no over year on the neg post in 4 digit format. This should predate the vehicle build by a few weeks if it is correct. This will tell you if it’s been fiddled with.

Find a better garage; one that knows how to use a code reader and is able to understand it!

If the connector arrowed below is loose or not fitted into the battery clamp, it will affect S/S operation. What’s the battery voltage with the engine off and car locked? Is it an AGM or EFB marked battery?

https://www.tvnow.de/shows/auto-mobil-174/2020-09/episode-39-thema-u-a-porsche-panamera-mit-lance-3424969 The link is to a german car programme. Go to 17:25 in the clip. Same issue on a Audi A3.

"As I'm oldish....." Unless I'm much mistaken that's actually an essential requirement to be a Yeti owner - that and devilish good looks and wearing socks with sandals. You have to score two out of three. And back to the OP's thread.

We bought my wife’s pre reg car from a dealer at 5 months old and 25 miles on the clock for £8500. Colour edition with dab radio and spare wheel. Decided this year 15 months on to just manage with one car so p/x it and my Yeti towards new Karoq. Had an excellent valuation on both cars and the same dealer we bought the 68 req Citigo from managed to sell it for £9200!! Value seems to have gone up as no longer made now and no similar replacement if you want a very small car

Fantastic idea, Thanks. It is a bit of a fiddle trying to look this up on a mobile, this really helps. I ordered some spare fuses as well to keep in the car, as you never know when you need them.

Cyril said straight away that they would supply RB/AT if requested too. Might have a contract that insists on Renault getting some credit for future success though. Maybe the lol-lol naming convention, Renault-RedBull, in all press releases. Back to Honda: They claimed to be quitting F1 as part of their plan to be carbon neutral by 2050. That doesn't explain them, the very next day, extending their stay in Indycar does it? ( where they are fully competitive ) To me the second announcement just reinforces them as losers and quitters who can't hack F1...

Do what we did take your dogs/crates to the dealer ship and try them out. I'd be surprised if they refused we did it with Skoda/Seat/Merc/BMW/Volvo. Surprised at the real difference between cars that look bigger or smaller.

No, everything still works as I described in my post. I must say that I am relieved as I was definitely more than a little apprehensive when I started the job. I still occasionally press the button on the tailgate to close it, but 6 years of doing that is a hard habit to break.

All cars can have them...

I think this spec and price looks great - very tempted. I presume the First Editions, including this VRS, are supplemented with extras at 'no cost' to drum up business and that future versions will not have these extras? I'll wait for a manual which should drop the price by another £1,500. Together with a decent PCP interest rate, deposit contribution and 10% discount I could change for this. No rear wiper as standard on an estate? - Hope not.

Thanks Both, I contacted the installation company yesterday, and have asked for them to do a site visit, as they do a few of the systems. Cheers, Nick

So the guys who did the M4 video posted a little earlier also posted this one. Looks a hoot

Best thing about lane assist is when it is switched off.

Some interesting information here https://www.world-today-news.com/we-compared-enyaq-with-relative-id-4-the-damage-is-cheaper-but-vw-cheaper/ the thing that gets me though; is where its explained that although the Skoda's cheaper at the outset it'll cost even more after the absolutely necessary extras (like heated seats etc.) have been added. Seems like Enyaq is ever so slightly less efficient on range and probably because of its everso slightly oversized body compared to the VW.

I like in this exterior colour of this one and the grill & the interior other than light panels on the seats. The wheels are not going to suit touch parkers.

The 10 years of the winter driving I did in the Alps I occasionally had to drive works vans that had more grip on the front, either just snowies on the front (all season on back) or with snowies all round and needing chains. If you're gentle you can get away with it, but the limit is surpisingly low AND that's in a 90BHP van! Being bored I tried swapping the grip to the rear instead, it meant the tail did't step out, but as you just couldn't steer or get traction (or both) it didn't help - Great fun in a car park! I would never mix tyre types on a vehicle I own. A good laugh is seeing a RWD with just one set of chains and them trying each end (neither really works) - but occasionally I would be behind them and then it's no fun so I'd throw a spare (usually discarded) set of chains on the opposite end so they could having steering and have power, I'd collect the chains from their accomodation and €20, or get €100 if they kept them. Always retighten chains after a few yards unless they're very posh ratchet chains - rubber band type do work but only if tightened.

Or a centre punch sharpened to an acute angle is my preferred method, I used to have a special small cold chisel with I think it was called a diamond point head which was very effective, it basically had one bevel like wood chisel and a 2 stage side rake angle, bad description but I know what I mean I would love to be able to replace it.

Fingers crossed for you, please keep us updated.

...and good luck too.

Really useful for pay and display tickets

Narrow chisel hammered at 45 degrees downward on left of head. Should loosen fairly easily.

I have often contemplated this one................you would def need the dash out to fit wiring and motors etc and thats "IF" the housing is the same, but without seeing them side by side, difficult to know the amount of work involved. As with anything its def possible, just depends on budget etc. On the flip side, the knobs work fine lol.........

Again, makes no difference. Using the right product makes a bigger difference than in which direction you foam the car. I did it both ways yesterday and the dirt came off the same on both sides.

& if a MAC OS you work in the VW PDF instruction which is imperative to remove the operating system hidden characters it enters into the download which will stop the upload to the car in it's tracks (CleanMydrive is run against the SD after copying the files over): If the map update is performed using the Apple® OS X operating system you may find that Discover Pro does not recognise the map material or displays it incorrectly. This is due to a lack of compatibility between the “7 zip” program and the OS-X operating system. In addition, the OS-X operating system has a tendency to create hidden additional files on external data media. We therefore recommend that OS X users use the “Keka” unzipping program. We also recommend using the “CleanMyDrive” program to remove any hidden files.

Don't forget you can do Hue with Hive. This is what it looks like when you want to add a new thing to Hive. The 'Add another device' thing on the bottom left is for Hive lights and PIRs etc and it auto finds them for you

I don't understand why so many posters seem to think VAG use cambelts that run in oil. Ford ecoboost yes, Skoda no. Here I try to explain why VAG think their EA211 cambelts are, in their words, maintenance free This covers EA211 1.0tsi, 1.2tsi, 1.4tsi and 1.5tsi

SmartLink doesn't appear in the menu on older units. If SmartLink is shown then that means it is present. When it says "contact a dealer to activate SmartLink", that means a dealer can activate it. Summary: Your dealer is an idiot.

In a previous house, I had Hive. Installation was included in the cost. It took the British Gas fitter four hours! It worked really well. I normally kept the thermostat in the lounge but, as it's portable, you take it where you are spending most time. I worked at sea and it was great to monitor the house all around the world and to turn the heating on the day before we got home. I also fitted a PIR motion detector which was wireless. In my current house I use Homematic TRVs and room stats. All rather expensive but German engineered.

i also have the ambient lighting but if you go tot he shop on your infotainment you can buy more colours for £44 im guessing can be added via VCDS

Only did 500 kilometers in last two months due to the lockdown. Need to do a road trip ASA the lockdown is lifted.

I thought the hill hold is standard - my Octavia 3 has it (with manual handbrake)

I would never judge another's purchase decision as strange, without knowledge of the decision making process,you may see it as a downgrade, I don't, hence my purchase. Purchase decisions are not only objective,but subjective too. I also run a citigo and new fiat ducato campervan. all bought for differing reasons. As for your assertion of the Kamiq being, relatively, a tiny tin can, shows a real lack of appreciation of the car itself. I've run 6 Superbs over the past ten years, great cars, but then I did long distance stuff, carrying a lot of gear, I find the Kamiq a much more pleasant and responsive car than the Karoq, and very Golf like to drive ( hardly a tin can I feel). If you judge cars by square footage of sheet metal as the overriding criteria, I think it's a flawed process. Horses for courses, as they say, and each to his/ her own. over the years I've driven most stuff, from basic ( austin 1100/ ford escort) to exotic ( Citroen SM/ Maserati's) low and high performance. Apart from a WartburgKnight with Zero brakes, I've learned to appreciate what makes a car, but don't criticise other's choices as they are personal decisions!

Aye, yes also that, I have yet to read a full write up from a trusted source that defines the need for the "mit silikat" teabag in the coolant tank or any only some cars/engines and if there is any link with which version of coolant is also associated with it being present, ie G12++ or G13 or G12evo or even it seems G13PLUS+! There are other marques that are also fitting these siliate pouches or more typically a proper porous sealed casing, an idea that maybe VW Group should have thought of using instead of their early "teabags" which too many owners have found to end up with failed welded seams so the silicate granules come out and get the blame for adding to the risk of blocking the heater matrix. I could be wrong but it seems it is mainly diesel engined cars that are suffering most from this, and it I think, is them that had issues with casting sand being left in the water ways. Even some SEAT Leon Cupras, MK3, have these "mit silikat" coolant tanks, and then some don't - though VW Group have always just fitted "what was in stock" in the factory, many with G12 printed on them had G12+ or G12++ fills at the factory, just all a bit messy - like having default battery details in the CAN-Gateway, just sloppy and cheap. Edit:- don't forget SEATs though, many MK3 Leon owners are going through this expensive repair at the moment - with no sign of any shame or goodwill from their dealer!