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Just over 200 miles covered since the WoF. I think I've fixed the Check Oil Level warning, and as far as I can tell it was just poor contacts on the relay as since the last time I pulled the relay out and put it back a couple of times doing diagnostics, the oil light is off and the warning has stopped during driving. Now she natters about checking brake pads (the wires from the pads don't have anywhere to plug into) and occasionally tells me brake lights not working (they are) and please refuel. Talking of fuel I recon I've averaged about 14.5l/100km, but lots of school runs and stuff. My speedo and a few other bits stopped working the other day. After a bit of mucking about I traced it to a broken earth wire on the relay that activates my little switched life fuse box that powers a few bits and bobs. Including the speedo sender. I had a hissing in the footwell after a drive up to drop the ozone generator off. The pipe the ECU uses to measure boost had split at the end and fallen off. Then finally I did the school run yesterday and turned the key to go home.. nothing, totally dead. I traced that to a failure of my own - when fixing the boost pipe issue I'd pushed a wire out of the way a little, just enough for it to catch on the steering column, wrap around and snap the wire. The one that leads to the starter relay. Kneeling on the ground in the rain and wind rigging a temporary fix to get home was not much fun!! I've done some better cable management and cable-tying now.

Hello, Seat Portal https://seatmapdownloads.akamaized.net/ZZ_High/EU_HIGH_P189.zip

Are there anything we can do that can improve noise insulation in the superb? (upgrade glass / window / door / floor insulation) It is a great car, but can be improved upon if we can get the cabin to have a bit less noise. (I think most are road noise due to crappy Australian roads).

At the minute, no one has done anything. The car is still at my home while I decide who I want to do the repair. I think I'm going to ask the original tuner to collect the car tomorrow, take it back to his workshop to first check the engine over to make sure it's ok before we continue with any work. Once we know the engine is (hopefully) ok, then I might just get a littco turbo fitted to get the car back on the road. Once we're up and running I'll need to decide what I'm doing with the map. I may just ask the tuner to revert back to stock for now, I don't know. I might be nuts letting them work in the car, I don't know, but it's literally a 5 minute walk from my home, and they access to all the VAG systems and work on these cars every day. There's two parts to the business you see, there's the VAG specialist, and then the remapping place next door.

I don't wonder I know! If I started again I'd have the engine out, loom out, rewire and fix. But that seemed like a step too far at first as it appeared to be a relatively working car.

@xman As you me and @shyVRS245know, you are just getting a dig in.

Dependant on the Shy ones height and weight 68bpm maximum maintained for 2 hours would equate to around 225 calories and not 1050. He would consume more lying on the settee watching the Tour de France and pressing the remote control button

Maybe he is over 152 years old George, either that or he dreamed his pretend cycling session. My theoretical 100% heart rate is 159 bpm which I regularly exceed when running or cycling and can remain above for one hour in the right conditions, on the 400m track I have hit 200 briefly several times and 203 once but only a peak of 195 with the cardiologist beside me during an epreuve d'effort. My Garmin watch was proved to be fairly accurate on that day against the calibrated laboratory instruments but I only use it as a comparator to back up how I feel (listen to your body) a fellow runner older and far fitter than me has an identical watch & his HR is always much lower, when we swopped watches it jumped 25 and he set a 1km record on mine that I will never ever come close to!

@xman A static exercise bike. Funny how when you are on an electric bike people say that is cheating. My cycling is not all on electric bikes, & was not in 2018, not that that matters does it if you still need to cycle and you have one leg. A bit of assistance when cycling can change were you might go like up steep hills that would mean walking if on a pushbike, you are still getting exercise.

It's a £350 watch George. Perhaps I'm a lot fitter than you.

The REVO dealer I've contacted is a VAG specialist too, so from that I'm assuming they'll provide services to repair the car as well.

I did around 12k a year in my Yeti and my wife did under 4K a year in a diesel fabia for many years with no issues or warning lights. As long as you regularly do a longer trip the emmision system will stay healthy. For the fabia it was a 50 mile return trip on a fast road about every other week, with all other trips much shorter. Whilst I agree that this is a major consideration when buying new, second hand you might as well get what you prefer driving. If you can stretch to a 150ps later diesel it is Euro 6 and much less likely to have issues or be barred from low emmision areas. Really nice to drive as well and some are 6 years old now.

The issue is I'm getting so much conflicting information. I've got one tuner saying the the turbo housing will be knackered, so it's going to need a full new turbo rather than a rebuilt, which is why I've been looking at new turbo's. I've spoke to another North East tuner who I found recommended in a post on here, and they've suggested a littco turbo and said they've had no issues with them. So I have @newbie69, my original tuner and a second tuner telling me they're ok, and 1 tuner telling me they're not. I've fired off an enquiry to the closest REVO dealer to see what they suggest. It's 30 mile away, but hopefully with the REVO brand behind them, they know what they are talking about.

Not everyone will be smart enough to hypermile, I can see the breakdown companies getting many more callouts - not for "I've run out of petrol/diesel" but for "The battery is flat on my EV" - it will be interesting to see whether they equip their vans with a universal boost charger pack (if such a thing exists) or simply tow the EV to the nearest charging station?

That's not about whether i'st a FL model or not; it's because you have a 1.5 - on the 1.4 and 1.5 the water pump is on the opposite end of the engine to the timing belt but most people on here think of the 2.0 engine where the water pump is on the same end of the engine as the timing belt.

What are their internet reviews like? Don't get stung again ;) Good luck whatever you do.

Heres my POV enjoy the drive.

Ok, I have my serious doubts about that "other tuner" based on all of what they've told you... a) I'm not being personally affiliated to Littco in any way, but since I trust owner's feedback above any tuner's own claims, the experiences from Littco owners in forums don't echo at all the claims about cheap chinese items or worse, a bad performance/reliability. b) Every log of stage 1 on the gen3 I've seen is hitting peak boost at around 1.6bar (1.55-1.65), that includes the big, proven tuners like REVO, Unitronic, APR among others, 1.4bar is simply a joke. I'm sorry but on that claim alone I would say forget about them and find someone who really knows this platform. c) There is ABSOLUTELY no reason to be drawn to a stage 3 setup and a cost 3-4K for a blown turbo if YOU don't want that power. Plenty of turbo rebuilders available to provide you with an upgraded IS38 making similar power to the OEM unit (or a bit more) but a much greater reliability. To me, apart from their unsubstantiated claims about other turbos and remaps, these guys seem like they're trying to up-sell you to a solution you were not interested in the first place just because it will mean more revenue for them, I would honestly look elsewhere.

Columbus sat nav is standard on the new vRS.

Hi, the cable has a 45 degree slope on its end.You need to make sure it is the correct way round when you put it into the plastic holder.There are 2 small fragile slots on the end of this housing,with 2 corresponding pegs on the cable end.Make sure these are engaged correctly. There is a fix on here if these slots have broken. It uses small cable ties to hold cable and housing tightly together.I would not use glue,because you may have to separate at some time.

There is a chap on the Facebook Fabia VRS group who prints them.

Could have been pre registered by the dealer/ ex demo, so would show them as first owner.

TBF these new roads are on an estate which is currently being built so they will be fully functional in the near future.

As above, you’d need the module to be there and connect to just like the MK1. You can buy the kit from Skoda or even remove it from another model and retrofit it like I have done. I had a benefit of a crashed VRS so I carefully removed the whole loom and rewired it just as the factory would in my other VRS. It works as OEM and shows on VagCom. While there are a lot of differences between the MK1/MK2 you get the idea of how it’s installed. But it maybe of some interest to you.

The ban on hybrid is said to be still 2035. The only thing that has been bought forward is ban on brand new pure ICE powered vehicles. This makes a LOT of sense: - most manufacturers have already moved to mild-hybrid now, banning sales of new cars in 10 years isn't going to affect many models. - EV isn't for everyone and won't be over next 10 years, so hybrid for a further few years while infrastructure catches up The biggest thing changing over next 10 years would be people's mindset. Around 2015, EV was seen as a toy. In 2017, second hand Leaf finished from leases were piling up, I got my one relatively cheaply. But from look of things, starting in 2020, we will see an accelerated shift in public opinion of EV's as motor journalists race to change their outdated tune.

hi, not sure if the loom is in place, but you would have to get them coded in either way

Sorry, just saw your message Are you sorted now? To be honest. It was a process of things. I wants something max 2-3 years old. That meant the headlines in the Octavia would be those awful split lights which put me right off. Looked elsewhere as hadn't considered a Superb. Not really an Audi or BMW man. Finally came back round to the Skoda garage to look at a new Octavia non vRS and saw a superb in the right colour and a Sportline. It was a customer's car but was sold on looks alone. Sat in an estate and the wife declared it too cavernous. I agreed with the size of the hatch boot so the decision was made. I said I wanted the 280 for the power and so it was just a case of finding one. One eventually popped up on Motorpoint and we reserved it with 2 hours of it being on the site and had it brought up. Wife is more than happy driving it. Just looking into a tow bar now to save putting bikes on the roof.

I was told (when my exhaust fell off my old car) by the AA man who bodged it together that more modern cars tend to have low grade stainless steel systems instead so exhaust corrosion problems are rare and it’s unusual now for them to be called to similar problems 🤷‍♀️ Xx

Technical name of this container is - appropriately - water box. Various parts that it's made up from shown here, item 13, 20, 25 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2012-666/8/803-803000/

Just to conclude... My engineer-friend removed some detritus from the container into which water drains from the windscreen (name?), ensured all accessible drain holes were clear (including door).. and having dried out the interior with a fan (accelerated by my wife's hair-dryer), no further ingress has occurred after 2 weeks outside with several visitations of rain. Living near several trees, I now know I need to keep on top of leaves, pine needles, etc, and remove them all promptly from the windscreen and bonnet entrances. Thank you all you helpful contributors. Keep safe.

And also it’s a genuine bonnet too 😂

I'm no electronics engineer but the diodes are still present in the glovebox light units and the overhead light units after the change from halogen to led bulbs . In my case ( and it seems for others ) the cure for the odd tailgate open warning , interior light dimming and alarm problems is cured by replacing the existing halogen bulbs with led lamps in the glovebox and the overhead light units . The diodes are built into the glovebox light units and overhead light units and I didn't remove them . Why do multi led lamp units from Superskoda fitted in place of the existing single halogen boot lamp units (which are diode equipped) not cause problems when multi led ones from eBay and AliExpress do cause issues? I guess they all come from a large eastern continent?

Petrol manual is now up in the UK. £29,815.

An Amazon delivery van parked in our road yesterday and I noticed it was a Mercedes the size of a Transit. It had written 100% electric written on the side. Amazon has the resources to invest in these vehicles but I doubt if local businesses have the cash to follow suit.

Don't fret girls, our UK boffins at Dyson are working on the ultimate solution. Just waiting for the government grants to take it into production.

The last cars I changed the exhaust on were a 1994 VW Polo, a 1996 Citroen ZX and a 1996 Skoda Felicia. Since then I've have 2003+ cars and they all still had the original exhaust after many years and miles. Seems they just don't rust like they used to.

Arh - welcome to the dodgy Firmware problems of Skoda Connect Lite / VW dongle. They DO NOT work properly out of the box. You have to be persistent. It took me 3 attempts at my mother-in-law's Fabia, but it eventually took. Here are the things I had to do. 1) Switch off any power saving modes you may have switched on. This knackers up the initial communication with the dongle. Please remember, you have to have the ignition on / engine on whilst the car is connecting and upgrading the firmware. 2) If you get a failed - initialisation - be patient; then delete the pairing and the dongle, and try again. You need to be in a situation where the firmware of the dongle is allowed to be upgraded (I think from 9.0.5.0 to 9.0.8.0), then the app will start querying the car and downloading the matrices. 3) When you are done and eventually you get the phone paired and the car communicates, go into Settings and go into "Making a phone call when the hands-free system" - and enable "Hands-free-mode". This means you can allow the phone to talk to the dongle and the car MIB system at the same time. PM me if you need further help.

Size does matter. But now I’m prepared for the Swedish winter and icy roads.

While im waiting for parts im just gonna try to fix the funky 2nd gear, sometimes it wont engage. I started with changing the oil on the trans as the car has original oil and has 150.000 kilometers on the odo. There was only 1.6 liters of oil on the trans and the workshop manual says it should be 1.8, i think i have a JDD MQ250 5-speed. Should be 1.8 liter :S Old and new oil. This made the shifting better, but its not fixed, so i guess i have to check the linkages.

2017 Skoda Superb SE-L Executive, 2.0 Tdi. Hatch, Petrol Blue with beige interior.

Try Ebay BOSCH A860S, £18 upwards.

A minor point but unlike the 2020/2021 update, this one won't quite fit on a freshly-formatted 32GB NTFS card (so don't waste 20 minutes or so unzipping it until it fails at 99%). No problem unzipping / installing when reformatted FAT32. (I'm not sure why some Youtube videos recommend NTFS, though that worked last time for me).

Have to disagree on the estate looking better (each to his own!) but just had a look again on the Skoda used approved site nationally and our cars are rather rare still - there’s only one 280 on there and that’s over £23k! Cheapest is nearly £21k for a 272, glad I decided to go for it when I did and found my sportline 280

I'd check on that. The AWD versions have a diff and different rear axle. The various sites always asked exactly what model I had so there may be a difference.

i'm considering installing full-width third-brake-light strip on the inside of the rear windscreen. or, if a suitable product exists, horizontally-scrolling indicators. would appreciate product / technique recommendations. thank you

Someone on another forum has mentioned noises from the car, and it's just occurred to me that the guy that transported the car home last night tried to start it to see if it would drive onto his trailer. It turned over, but then made a quick screech noise. I've been out to check oil and water levels, and there's no oil in the engine at all, which is understandable given the turbo failure....but.... I am really hoping this doesn't mean that the engine will be buggered as well! Knowing my luck it'll be seized.

He forgot to mention its an electric bike.....or maybe his £350 watch is a fake off ebay. Anyone with that low peak heart rate is not really exercising more than the gentlest walking.

I was a bit slow in updating so they only got installed over the weekend but I did notice something interesting. Not only have the roads been updated near me but they've also got roads that haven't yet been made. Now there's a first!

I really do worry about your inability to pick up humour