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You make it sound simple, but it isn't. Even with a car right in front of me I can't always accurately diagnose a problem because modern engines have become so complex and so many systems have complex interactions which are not easily separated from each other. Back in the old days you could say, "it's the ignition" because there was no spark then break it down further and eliminate components until the problem was found. Imagine how much harder it is doing this remotely where your eyes and ears are a person five thousand miles away who has no experience to draw upon and very few tools or skills and often cannot even articulate themselves properly in English.

It was simply frustration, I think. The OP has bought a car that's turned out to have faults that are proving difficult and expensive to fix. Very, very few of the people trying to help others on here are professional mechanics, so it shouldn't be surprising that not all of the suggestions are 'expert'. No-one here is getting paid anything for trying to help, so it seems unfair to criticise their attempts, @lalwong. I agree that the forum would be a much better problem solving resource if every question asked had a proven, documented solution, but unfortunately, once a problem is solved, most people simply get on with their lives rather than going back to write the solution for the benefit of others. Every forum is the same, and it's impossible to force people to 'complete' their threads. Many more serious problems may actually never be solved too, the car being sold or scrapped instead.

All of us are here on our own time, offering what we can from personal or professional experience. A lot of us lead busy lives and have to ration our time accordingly: once our car works again we move on with our lives. That's just reality. Even just finding the post after a week or two is a pain as it'll have disappeared way down the pages in that time. Sure it would be good to come back and post again if we can, but no-one has a right to expect it on a forum like this. Diagnosing problems in a complex engineered system is challenging even if you have hands on access and know what you're doing. As others have noted, the actual source of the problem can be far removed from where the symptoms pop up. Diagnosing over the internet based on limited information provided by a non-expert (as most owners are, no shame in it) is more challenging still. Then you have to deal with all sorts of cognitive biases that humans are blessed with in trying to unravel what might be going on. If you get a solid lead on your problem after posting it here, you're doing pretty well. I get the OP's frustration, but coming in with a thread title like that and demanding more from people who are probably already doing their best to help you out isn't cool. You catch more flies with honey

okay, i thought from the title this was going to be about some dodgy back street garage defrauding people by claiming to do work that isnt done, or some such thing. i still dont see what the warning is? if someone cant by internet magic instantly diagnose an issue from a description like "its making a strange noise when i do 'x' " are you going to come to their house and slash their tyres?? thats seems abit extreme. cars are complex. an issue can give a symptom that isnt easily related to the cause. eg my front window wipers wouldnt turn off on my old mk1 octy because of water ingress in the rear wash motor. the rear wiper and wash worked perfectly.... and the front end was fine on its own, but with both fuses in the back was grand and the front wouldnt stop. is that a directly related issue? nope. so it could take several examinations and tests to track it back to the cause in front the car nevermind over the internet. bit unnecessary to give out to everyone for not being magicians...

tesla make clear that the cruise and autopilot are only to be used on motorway or dual carriageway so no way it should be in use on the roads Bjorn video shows :-) Mine did it again on the M6 last week, I was driving in lane 2 at 70mph and then bam, I was at 40 mph and a Mercedes Sprinter van had to swerve to avoid me. He was obviously a Tesla fan though as he was waving in a very excited manner as he went past me.

The post by @shyVRS245 is very relevant to the title of the thread. Current news story.

It does help when an OP does say where the vehicle being asked about is, or where used, simply because there are differences globally in the environment, temperatures. then the models sold their, drive trains and fuels. If reading a post on a phone members might not even see the car model, engine, country etc.

Speaking with Car Dealership employees is not a guarantee of speaking with someone that knows the brand that they are a salesperson for. Maybe until recently they were selling white goods or fast foods. 2016-2017 Yeti are Euro 6. Diesels with SCR are Euro 6. (They had to be after late 2015)

@dankatar The sunroof came on the demo Sportline that I bought four years ago. It has a sliding window shade that acts as additional sound insulation. I have not been aware of any noise coming from the roof. I have not had any leaks or problems of any sort. On the days when it's fair enough to open the sunroof, it's very pleasant up to about 40-50 mph. On other days, it's nice just to have the shade to let the sun in. I wouldn't have specified it myself, but I'm glad I have it.

On the day I picked it up. SEL First Edition with 18” alloys.

Mine isn't single walled, so the silica bag can't be accessed easily. That's why I will replace the tank.

update. although I have had it confirmed that my dpf has a high level of soot and ash it seems this was not my problem. the charge cooler on front of engine is completely blocked, how i managed to drive with it in that state is beyond me. The Dpf Doctor removed it and tried to clean it but being so blocked no fluid passed through it what so ever so I have purchased one from ebay that appears to have been deep cleaned already arriving to tomorrow, fingers crossed.

Does anyone else with the Led headlights have serious issues with the auto dip and main beam function?? I know I can do it manually but I want to use it when I have it, especially when it works flawlessly on our 2014 Seat Alhambra with halogen lights. The main issues I’m finding are that the car fails to recognise oncoming traffic and also the taillights of cars in front. When rolling hills are thrown into the mix etc it really does not work at all. It constantly dips for cars and will then put the main beam on before they have passed blinding them. It’s really really annoying, dangerous, and as mentioned our Alhambra doesn’t fail once ever!! Has anyone else suffered issues like this and did they find a fix? Dealer no use and car out of warranty period.

Hi guys bought some error free led number plate bulbs. They are to bright. I have a the full version of vcd how can I dim just them bulbs. Thanks J

It turned out to have had the oil change as well as the dsg service. Long story short after 25 years of driving fords I've got my first Skoda.

The pumps are odd little things, the impeller spins backwards or forwards to send the water to the back or front screen, the outputs have a little spring loaded non-return valve which stops the washer fluid - A- draining back to the tank under gravity and - B- stops it being sucked back by the pump when it's going in the opposite direction. I dissected one a long time ago and it was a curious but ingenious design. All of this is pointing to there being a connection to the front screenwash not working. perhaps there's a fuse or something I've missed, although it seems very unlikely as I checked every single fuse previously. if the motor was faulty then it wouldn't wash the rear screen, so I can't see why it won't wash the front. Regards, Dave.

Post an adaption map from 09

Some people have problems with their cars, others have problems that are even more difficult to solve.

I'm pretty sure James is suggesting the DC-DC adaptor in the hardwire kit could be causing interference, not that you need to start replacing things. A good starting point would be to unplug it's fuse to see if that helps improve things.

You can go all round the houses having folk mess with your infotainment system or just bite the bullet and have a dealer install it for around £150.

Catch you after my spag bol.

Careful now, mac. Marking unhelpful posts as unhelpful is considered bullying by @shyVRS245

Watching with interest. Great work!

Thanks for your attention in trying to get help from expert guys like yourselves. It does not matter which IP or country you are from. All that I am saying is get the most relevant information to people who are experiencing any problem and follow up. And if you fixed the problem, please share it and reply to the treat.

True, in those circumstances they would be a good choice. Also have roads locally that are cleared with tractors with V shaped ploughs. Great except where the passing places have a 2ft bank of snow from the plough, makes for good for reversing practise.

well, if lockdowns are still relaxed. i will be coming up to kilmarnock

Sorry but that is still rubbish as the car left the factory with Long Life oil in late 2019 and it does not need an oil change until 18,500 miles (30,000km) or 2 years whichever arrives first. So it shouldn't need a service for another 12 months but the dealer has set the first service at 12 months from first registration to make you pay sooner unless they gave you 2 services for £79 like my dealer did on my Feb 2020 used Superb or maybe they gave you 2 free services.

Couldn't afford Velvet Red, far to posh! They are both in Corrida Red, the flat non-metallic red.

Lucid Air launched with 400 mile range, Tesla respond with an increase in range to the model S to 414 miles to leapfrog them again (ranges in US EPA figures). Lucid have not challenged that. I don't think Tesla need to worry too much, by the time Lucid are actually producing cars in any numbers, Tesla will have migrated all their cars to the new battery cell structure / chemistry to achieve better energy density. I also think Lucid are unlikely to be a direct competitor to Tesla, as their car is more luxurious (and expensive) than the Model S. The more likely competitor to Lucid will be the Mercedes EQS due late this year. The whole reason every new battery car is compared to Tesla is they are the benchmark, whether they compete in the market sector or not. Personally, I don't believe Lucid will be a consideration for car owners in Europe. (Ditto Rivian)

I'm reminded that was the year we borrowed a Yeti for a test drive from our friendly, local, Škoda dealer. It was fitted with studded winter tyres. I drove it around some of my favourite local back roads that were covered in several inches of sheet ice. At one point, I passed a gaggle of Land Rovers and other serious 4x4's parked on the verge at the bottom of a slight hill. The Yeti sailed up the hill on the sheet ice; much to the obvious amazement of the shooting party standing in the field next to the road.

Silver and those alloys really suit the Mk4.

I think the J519/ module 09 unit is called Onboard supply control Unit sometimes, which could be abbreviated to power supply unit or PSU The update may well have included software modification to specifically not allow that alarm horn confirmation of locking etc. I seem to remember reading about some EU ruling that made it illegal, for noise nuisance reasons. It would be a bit tragic for you if that was all that the update was for.

looking nice, like the bronze wheels, very cupra 2020.

I'd think that there is also the possibility when when Jo Public (the customer) is engages with someone that is quoting "what the computer said" it is just too easy for them, the customer, to do an auto translate into something they, the customer, either understands or has heard mentioned elsewhere so "power switching" or "power management" both become PSU - of course in the same way, the "technical" side of the desk might have tried and failed to dumb down "what the computer said" in a bid to make the average customer understand it.

Sometimes it's trial and error, and a process of elimination exactly the same with a pc. Mechanics in my experience have gave me false information in the past, I don't trust any of them because of this anymore, it's a shame because I bet there are some great honest ones out there, I'm yet to find one, do you really know if they replaced that part if you didn't see them do it with your own eyes? I was quoted £600 by a local highly rated garage on Google to change a clutch, with the kit costing about £60 pounds. None of us have got money to waste of replacing parts that aren't faulty, but sometimes it's a way of saying, well it's not that then, and at least you know that part is new and should last.

Yep it's 1KF. Thanks.

Surely if it wasn’t deemed necessary then the bean counters would have replaced it with something simpler and cheaper.

@barbusg60 any updates? I have the exact symptoms on my 1.9 TDI BSW. I've had the timing belt changed as well. My mechanic thinks the timing belt hasn't been timed properly.

Ours after treating it to a good wax

I think the other big question is will they get the software working properly before the Ioniq 5 launches early in 21. Given how good the efficiency of the current Hyundai and Kia EV's are, plus the strong warranties they give, I think VW will have some stiff SUV competition even before the Tesla Y is available from Germany. Rumours are that the Ioniq 5 will be launched this financial year.

The opposite direction gear thing is a bad idea if your engine has a timing chain with a hydraulic tensioner. Any movement will turn the engine backwards, tighten the tensioner side of the chain and either put force on the ratchet (if the tensioner has one) or just squeeze oil out of it if it doesn't.

It is required. There is an offence of 'quitting' - it is an offence to leave a car unattended unless the engine is stopped and the handbrake is effectively set.... (only applies on a road or public place, not whilst you are on your driveway obviously)

With manual gearboxes, Yes. If facing downhill, put the car in reverse. If facing uphill put the car in first, just a habit I got in to as a manual car driver. With either manual or auto I would turn the front wheels in to the curb when parked on a hill.

Well as luck I suppose if there is any in this situation the key was in the boot near the tailgate so we went this route,we concluded fitting a tail light was easier than fitting a window

I actually preferred the badge! My favourite tweak so far is the wireless charging and the wireless connection to the infotainment system - went through so many cables on the old one!

Hi. I am about to permanently retire my Mark 1 Elegance with the the power rear windows and would like to offer the whole car to anyone on the forum who might wish to add these to their vehicle. Car still runs but no MOT. Based South London. Cheers

Shouldn't be an issue as long as the footbrake is applied and the car stationary. Either Park and Handbrake or Handbrake and Park.

Not really much in the way of a full update. I have sourced a supposedly good (but used and still 15yr old) engine loom, and have bitten the bullet and ordered a new engine loom from TPS. That way I can rule out any electrical maladies from ECU to engine at least. I have a new camshaft signal sensor to go on, so that means ALL the engine sensors are now brand new, Crank Sensor, Cam Sensor, CTS Sensor, Fuel Temp Sensor and MAF sensor as well. I have yet to collect the loom from TPS as it has had to be sourced from outer Mongolia it seems, so that will be this week at some point. If I still have Crank signal issues it's pointing to the signal reluctor ring on the crank possibly having a bent tooth (could have knocked it refitting the crank maybe) so that might mean sump coming off to check. That will deff have to wait till after xmas. In the meantime I have sourced a bolt in rear strut brace (purely because I like the cosmetic look of it....) and had it powdercoated in RAL 6029 (mint green) This matches the calipers perfectly, so that has been fitted. Excuse the pile of corruption in the boot... Whilst at the mercy of the powdercoaters, I decided to have the front strutbrace done to match as it will provide a splash of colour in the engine bay. Please note the front brace isn't fitted properly, just popped roughly in place to take a pic, as I've got to strip a bit of the engine bay back out it made little sense bolting it down fully. A while ago, prob 2 years tbh, I found a seller on facebook with the rare rear seat with the middle rear headrest option. Middle of nowhere in wet wales I picked it up for not a lot of money (£30 from memory) and stored it in the loft, I knew it was grubby and would need a deep clean so that's what else I've been doing. Before... Grubby but not holed or damaged thankfully. I did toy with the idea of stripping the material off the seat and washing it but the backrest looked possibly the hardest to do so I cleaned it in one piece. Using my trusted Autosmart Bio-Brisk interior shampoo, a splash of Bilt Hamber surfex in with it, I set to scrubbing the seat then extracting using very hot water in the extraction machine. After one pass... In all it has taken four sessions of scrubbing, extracting and drying to get it clean... Nearly 100% dry now so can be fitted into the car this week. Now I was left with the rear seat squab and other back rest of the used manky seat I bought, so I have stripped the upholstery off the seat bases just now in readiness to machine wash. Not a pretty sight... These are currently having a good session in the washing machine at 40c so i'll see what they come out like. I suspect they will need to be washed again to get all the filth off. The water and suds in the machine was brown. And the missus noticed.... Once they are clean and dry i'll put them away somewhere safe for a little side project I have planned..... (watch this space) Next interior job is to get the drivers seat out and then find in my loft, pretty much the last new seat foam base that was available from factory, purchased in 2015. I need to replace the base foam in the driver seat as it's starting to break down on the drivers side edge bolster an I don't want the material going in a hole over the framework. More pics on that when I get to it. Matt

Production has started and the line looks great. Note that there are 80x model badges on two cars (or the same one twice), so does that mean the AWD versions are now available for order?