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Hi All, Today i picked up my lovely new 2021 SE in Petrol Blue and I thought I would answer all the questions I had before collection for anybody else awaiting delivery or considering an SE Yes, The car does have keyless start but no keyless entry (which is grand as I would have switched it off anyway). Skoda Connect on the SE comes with most of the gadgets IE using your phone to unlock the car, lights etc Although i haven't had time to get it activated as it seems to take an age. On a manual start/stop is absolutely fine. on an auto however I'm no fan The gearbox is rather notchy in comparison to my previous car (2017 Vauxhall Astra Sports tourer 1.4T 150ps). I did find myself struggling for first but that I'm sure is because the Astra's gear change was rather smooth. it's on par I would say with my 2 Mk3 Ford Mondeos. The ride is so much better than the Astra and it doesn't roll very much in bends The Rear seat leg room is considerably better without the Removable seats. I'm 6 foot and long in the leg and i could sit behind myself with my legs spread. https://www.skoda.co.uk/new-cars/karoq/se is as you suspected incorrect and it does NOT come with heated seats and floor matt's as standard. Although the car has the same set up as the Astra, the torque band is much more diesel like, And for a mid sized SUV it suits it down to the ground. and somehow feels quicker. The car looks reasonably low from the outside but from the inside it does feel tall. parking is a doddle due to the large mirrors and straight edge of the panels. In comparison to the 2017 1.0DSG SEL I test drove, The seats are a lot softer and After a couple hundred miles put on the car today, they're rather cosseting. Yes, It does have wireless Car play and it works fine. The single usb A port has been replaced by 2 USB C's. I purchased a USB C to lighting cable on eBay and it works like a charm. The Halogen Headlights on the Karoq are FAAAARRR better than the Halogens fitted to the Astra. I was going to change to some night breakers but I don't think I'll bother. I test drove this evening on a dark wet country lane that i would have struggled with yesterday and it was brilliant. The standard speakers and Bolero Head unit are much better that the Vauxhall variant although it does lack a little volume. First Motorway trip with cruise set at 70 exactly returned 48 mpg on it's first trip. Properly impressed by that. I was expecting Low-mid 40's but it's actually better than the astra even though it is taller and heavier. Down to low 40's on the return but that was due to Heavy rain and a heavier foot in traffic. Finally - No it wasn't a mistake its comfortable and is what I would describe as a wafter. I find myself just sitting behind rather than going for an overtake because why bother. until i went for a ride in a friends evoque last year I was anti SUV. Always been a Large Hatch (mondeo) or Estate guy but now I finally understand why so many people buy them and why the MPV market is dead. If you're on the fence just go test drive one! I hope this helps somebody who is i'm sure searching every review, forum post facebook group they can find.

I have used that method for nearly 10 years, so can also vouch for it's effectiveness. I also use a Pingi on the dash if the weather is really cold and damp - also very effective. However, if it has the startings of a heater radiator issue, where they can leak tiny amounts overnight which are only really noticed as an odour for the first minute of the radiator warming rather than coolant loss and an oily deposit on the screen that takes 2 -3 days to build up, it will turn the screen to a fog like vision area once the warm fumes hit. This will only clear by wiping the screen, as the deposits are almost like steam, which will only get worse as the heater rad degades further. I 100% agree as to the effectiveness of getting rid of condensation, but I am just adding a word of caution if it is a heater rad, as I have been on the end of a failing unit and it's not nice to live with. This was why I was hoping the OP might have reposted, just to we could sort the wheat from the chaff (or the rad from the condensation ) Keep safe all, Phil.

full day later no pain and no meds taken, bit of mild discomfort around the front of my pelvis (like after banging your arm on a table..) the bloody itching from the shaving is worse! was out kickin a football around with spud sr earlier and no ill effects then either

Thanks everyone for the comments. We’ve opted to forgo the parking system, neither of us were particular keen on that, but we’ve added the travel pack, family pack and apparently I needed to add the heated two spoke steering wheel, so there are all on... Right, now time to put away the brochure and stop looking at options!!

Thank you everyone for your help. My issue resolved by cleaning the fuse located above the battery. Radiator Fan 2nd Stage terminal fuse has caught a lot of carbon and was getting neglected all the while. I cleaned it's terminals and now engine is appropriately maintaining the optimal functioning temperature. Found no coolant leak. I was loosing coolant through overflow spillway of expansion tank due to excessive boiling of coolant and water, cause of non-functioning radiator fan (2nd Stage). I hope this helps someone in need.

Absolutely right. There is a lot of confused stuff out there, but when you get down and look along the line of the sill with the OEM jack in the correct position, you can clearly see that the welded sill seam does not take the weight, but does indeed take the weight on the corner of the floor as it meets the sill. The "claw" merely locates the position and takes no load on the welded seam. I must be lucky as at 76 I'm still able to wriggle about under a car out in the road Everyone to their own, but I prefer to preserve/maintain the seam sealer to protect the long term integrity of the three part welded seam frpm corrosion - you do what you think is best/ most practical.

A week ago I returned my Superb to the dealer @ 87 000miles, got 17 000£ for it, Iconsider this a good trade in price in Sweden at least. After one weeks driving andapprox 1000miles in the V60CC B4 my impressions is the following: Start/stop function - In the Superb I always deactivated this function due to the delay when pulling away, also it was quite noticable and generated a lot of vibrations when starting. The B4 engine doesn't vibrate in the same extent, not at all when starting. Engine is started before the foot is completely of the brake pedal - no delay at all and the function is active all the time. Gearbox - DSG is kind of quick and could shift seamlessly under the right circumstances, but it had its quirks when it didn't know what gear to use coming into a roundabout. The torque converter connected to the B4 might not be as efficient but it never hesitates and even when under load it shifts silky smooth. Steering - I really miss the progressive steering from the Superb, it was one of the things that I didn't think I would miss but I was so wrong! The Volvo is "sharper" when turning but not enough to make any difference. Comfort - One thing I knew I would miss, the DCC in comfort mode when going straight on country roads, Volvo is firmer and sits somewhere between Normal and Sport of the Superb. A lot less body roll in the Volvo and better suspension setup makes it feel more in control and agile on twisty roads. Soundlevel in cabin is in a different world, with the acoustic glass there is no wind noise present at all in the Volvo, also noise from tyres are a fair bit lower even though the Superb was equipped with Michelin Cross Climate and the Volvo has Spiked Hakkapelitta 9 tyres. Rattle from gravel is effectively silenced in the Volvo while it was very loud and present in the Superb. Seats - This is subjective but this is the reality for me - In the Superb a 200miles drive would cause back pain no matter sitting position, in the Volvo I went on a 450miles trip last Tuesday and didn't get any pain at all. To be honest the old Volvo seats in XC70 or the higher spec seats are even more comfortable. Space - Superb is a clear winner, both front, rear and luggage. Storage is also a lot better in the Superb. Headlights - Xenon on the Superb with SLA and everything + a 160W led bar, Volvo equipped with Dynamic LED and 90W led bar. Dipped light in the Superb is actually brighter with a better light dispersion, Full beam is a LOT better in the Volvo and the automatic lights actually works so good I can leave them in all the time as it also controls the led bar effectively. In the Superb I couldn't use the SLA with the led bar, when using without the bar half of the oncoming vehicles flashed me to turn the full beam off. Climate - Volvo reaches 21c a lot quicker than the Superb, but non of the cars suffers from cold or warm spots in the cabin. Heat are distributed just as good in both cars. Superb had 3 zones, Volvo 2zones, both has remote controlled diesel heaters, Volvo can be remotely started to heat up even faster. Infotainment - Both has those horrible touch screens, Volvos has an edge in responsiveness and the bigger screen but. Functionality is about par with some differences in approach, Volvo has all important settings reachable with one swipe right while the Columbus has them hidden in a menu three. In my opinion both solutions are equally bad - always requires focus to be taken of the road... Sound system - Canton in Superb, High Performance in Volvo. More oumph i. The Superb but a more full and harmonic sound in the Volvo. To my ears the Volvo system is more natural sounding and has a better roll off in the treble. Sound quality is lower in the V60CC compared to same spec XC70, Superb has an edge in the clarity between 1500hz to 5000hz, Volvo has an edge as it actually reproduces sound between 300Hz and 120Hz where the Canton really lacks. Ambient light - Beautifull in the Superb, in the Volvo this is limited to two ledlights in the ceiling. Fuel economy - Hard to tell but it looks to be in the same area, still learning the Volvo. Between 70km/h and 100km/h B4 takes less fuel, but on twisty roads it uses more fuel. Highway driving they both use 5.5L/100km Power delivery - B4 has an almost linear power delivery but it doesn't really benefit from high revs, Superb felt snappier on some occasions and in some like an old lump that didn't know what to do. All in all both are really good cars, V60CC handles a lot better on uneven roads, better sound proofing and better seats. The Superb is more comfortable on straight roads, has more space and a better dipped beam. I miss the Superb but I don't regret that I got the V60CC.

if there is anyone interested in any detail on the procedure let me know, im happy to share. i told one of my buddies earlier on i got it done today and he has asked a load of questions, as he and his wife were told a 3rd child could cause serious damage after the difficult births she has had. he had considered very briefly this option, but not in any great detail. he is now giving it a much more thorough consideration.

Hi. Had my Superb for almost three years covering 79500miles. I've been impressed by the interior space as it fits almost anything you ever could imagine put inside the car. Reliability has been awesome, a broken damper, boot lid lock and some knocking on the front suspension. At one time it wouldn't start but it cured itself after a couple of minutes. I've never been a friend of the driver seat, for my quite heavy body 105kg @177cm it has to little cushioning and the shape of the backrest doesn't do any good for my body. The massage function is a gimmick that's nice to have but I won't miss it. Ventilated seats on the other hand is god send Comfort is ok, to much road and wind noise, with DCC in sport it gets quite stiff but it doesn't improve the handling that much (,normal driving). Comfort mode is my melody - floating around on the road Rear seat must be among the best there is!? Specced the steering that only has two turns end to end, really nice when going slow, parking etc. ACC does what it should, adaptive lane assist and everything working but I've only used them for a couple of hundred miles as I hate the feeling of someone else taking control of the car. 3zone climate control, it's okey but could have better cooling and heating, always keeps this in "sync" and won't miss it a bit. Heater and Skoda connect, heater ok, basic performance and Skoda connect has been really dodgy, never knowing when it will work made me use the remote most of the time. Headlights - low beam ok but high beam is a joke, installed a led bar as I drive on country roads with more forest than people and often when it's dark. Washe fluid tank a little on the small side, would have appreciated 6-8litres capacity. Rear view camera - God send! Really good resolution and functionality no matter how ****ty weather or dark it is. Columbus head unit - really hate the touchscreen. Not that fast but does what it should. Canton - I'm one of those that doesn't like the sound it produces, to much treble and low end, nothing in the middle. Good for electronic music though. Towing capabilities - pretty good actually, nothing to complain about except the DSG when doing tight manouvering. I guess this is common for all brands of these boxes. Haldex - ok performance, programming must differs a bit from Volvo as it feels like it's slower in it's reactions. Never gotten stuck anyway That sums it up - a good and reliable car, everything I complain about is subjective things that matter to me while others couldn't care less. Also the seats surely fits many others perfectly. But where will I go now? I came from a Volvo XC70 (my wife's car now) and will return to Volvo. Just signed the contract for a 2021 V60CC B4 AWD some sort of mild hybrid diesel with a whopping 14hk 48V electric motor It does miss some of the features of the Superb like adaptive chassi, that steering wheel thing, ventilated leather seats etc. But sound level in cabin is lower in the standard model, specced laminated windows all around in my order, makes a big difference in the XC70 and I believe it will in the V60CC also. Seats fits me better, climate control has more oumph for both cooling and heating and the overall finish is a little bit comfier than the Superb (my opinion). Someday I might come back, but for three years from now I will be hanging in different forum. Wish you all the best!

There are a number of threads in the Karoq section detailing the problems owners are experiencing with the MIB3 Amundsen and Columbus Infotainment systems. Basically, the Skoda Update Portal assumes that you still have a SD card slot for updates when it has been replaced by USB-C ports in MIB3 Karoqs, and the software doesn't recognise updated maps or radio logos on a USB memory stick. Typical threads are at: MY21 Amundsen Map update procedure - Skoda Karoq - BRISKODA MY21/Infotainment/Skoda Connect issues - Skoda Karoq - BRISKODA and MY 21 Amundsen Infotainment system - Skoda Karoq - BRISKODA. Presumably owners of MY21 Kamiqs, Scalas and Octavias will also be experiencing these problems? I have certainly seen similar complaints in VW Passat and SEAT Ateca forums. Could you add links to any other similar threads below, and if you are suffering consider making a complaint to Skoda UK via the Contact Form on the Skoda UK website at Contact Us form | ŠKODA UK (skoda.co.uk) Chris

That doesn't sound probable to me. When the battery is being charged by an external charger, the car doesn't have control over the voltage being applied. So although the 'gizmo' can measure the amount of charge being added, it isn't able to control it in the same way that it could if the alternator was supplying the charge (by varying the voltage setpoint of the alt). I believe further charging by the external charger will improve the state of charge of this battery.

On my Car #1 Individual keys do not remeber seperate seat settings #3 Yes - in settings #4 No #10 No #11 No #13 not legal in UK #15 only what you see #18 you could have engine chipped - but wave goodbye to warranty

Nope, no couriering work undertaken. Even when defrosting the car on the drive I either sit in it or wander around beside it as the car wouldn’t be insured if nicked.

I damaged mine at 2 days old driving off from parking into a concrete planter I couldn’t see from the driving seat and auto brake didn’t work. I would like to know how to hide the damage as the lower black part of the bumper costs over £400 plus fitting?

Personally i really liked the Kodiaq, But i just couldn't think of six other people that i liked so i bought the Superb.

@Dyrnog Why worry about how the Dealership resolve the fault as they delivered the car. Just get your courtesy car and they can replace the bumper or have a smart repair done so that there is not scratch or sign of a repair. If there is just some 'Kerb Side' autos type poor cover up job then just do not accept that from them.

Same happened to mine. A bit wet sanding (1000 grit, sanding confers similar texture), cleaning and local spraying with matte black paint solved it. Unfortunately no picture. No one can notice the scratch

+1^^ It lines up on the other vehicles so it can and will kerb your alloys if you are not careful, but it will get you into a small space that you may not attempt yourselves, - but quicker - not from my experience. You can’t drive too quick, have to go past the space till it’s ready (at this point the people behind are covering the space) etc.... It may be for you and it’s very novel, but in my humble opinion it’s not something extra I’d pay for again. ACC on the other hand is, but not everyone likes that.

The low line camera doesn't need or have the CAN high/low wires. Your problem has nothing to do with the wiring. Based on your other posts, you have a 5Q0035819A radio and as Sashagrace told you previously, it doesn't support a rear view camera. It appears it's missing the video chip needed as mentioned on this thread: http://rapidklub.pl/discussion/1512/mib2-doposazenie-w-kamere-cofania-low-retrofitting/

Sorry, is Smartgate https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/smart-gate-fatigue-recognition-2/oem-5e0063218-smart-gate-for-skoda/

That looks very very well.. ! Simple but effective detail !

Only if you have a pre-flattened head and the close vision of a 6 year old child.

I'll take a few of the easy ones! 3. 24 hour clock - There is a thread on here somewhere discussing this. I think you need to run the initial setup process again. 4. No, 12v are constantly on (until battery gets low anyway). 5. No. I haven't seen any way to retrofit the electric child locks, or any 'smart' option. 12. You can use the 'rest' button to keep the heating on for a while with engine off and doors locked AFTER you've been driving it. I'm guessing this is not what you want though. 13. Search for 'video in motion'. Use something like Carista, or a dongle from kufatec. check first that this will still work on MY21 / MIB3. 14. If you have MIB3, it seems that you can have turn by turn directions from Waze or Google maps on the VC, but not the full map. 17. No. Extra parking sensors are required. 2 at the sides on the front, 2 at the sides on the rear. They only come with the park assist option. It is possible to retrofit if you really want to, but not worth it in my opinion.

Better than the Yeti when the lens often got obscured with mud!

It's trivial to clear the software update code: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/18798/

Wife comes in and says, "what you doin luv", i say, "just trying to download a file onto my SD card but it wont work", wife says, "have you tried copy and paste"? STUPID BOY. All done. 🙄

My VRS in quartz grey.

Because it was a main dealer, and they're not allowed to let any car/owner leave the premises without upselling attempts!

Hi Robjon and SurreyJohn for replying to my post. I am going to investigate tomorrow once I have got the lock open from the inside... There is a breakers yard not too far away from me with a Roomster, I may pay a visit if it is fairly easy to swap out a wiring loom unit. I will let you know how I get on.

I have the same estate in the same colour, but just a 1.9TDi L&K.

Condensation will build up in this kind of weather, and it happens on all cars. If you really want to fix it, try pulling up the carpet and check the sound deadening to see if it's wet. It will probably be worth checking that the grommet is there behind the pollen filter behind the scuttle panel. For now though, pressing auto on the climatronic will set to 22 degrees, this is the best temp in order to rid of condensation quickly. However, only having one middle vent (stupid design) takes a bloody age to do anything. But, you could always buy a Pingi Dehumidifier Car, it's like a small pillow and helps reduce moisture, that or cat litter too for a while.

And as above again, don't just assume it's fine by looking at it. You'll need to inspect the wiring behind the tape. Also, check the pins on the motor and into the block connect and the block connectors in the A pillar and B pillar.

The standard hardware works well on my Stage one mapped VRS Octavia. It's making 329bhp without any breathing problems.

Had a similar problem earlier this year, boot wouldn’t unlock, wiper became intermittent etc Had to have the tailgate wiring loom replaced. Seems the quality of wiring used in in the Roomster is of dubious longevity where it flexes at top of tailgate

All I contacted DVSA and here is the key part of their reply: "Thank you for your email enquiry dated 12 December 2020, concerning the MOT. DVSA is concerned to receive any complaints where it is alleged that a test certificate has been improperly issued but in order that action can be taken it is essential that the matter should be reported as soon as possible after the test, and before repair work has been carried out. I regret that the fact that the vehicle has had repair work carried out, precludes our taking any action in an appeal against the test result in this case. However, your concerns regarding the MOT garage have been forwarded to the appropriate Regional Intelligence Unit for your area for further investigation." I note from this that if you have concerns about the MOT then DO NOT fix the problem and leave everything as it is on the car. Obviously, thank is going to be difficult in many cases if that car is your main mode of transport. Whilst I was paying the garage bill, their MOT section were being inspected by DVSA. The inspector was happy to talk about this incident and had these wise words (paraphrased). 1. MOT stations are not obliged to put advisories on the MOT certificate - they should do. 2. Take the MOT as quite a low bar as far as car condition is concerned. It only means it was good to be on the road the moment the inspector inspected the car. 3. If you can't fully inspect the car yourself then as soon as you get the car home take it to a garage (you trust) and get them to look over it. 4. DVSA won't entertain looking at corrosion problems after 3 months from the MOT. 5. If the car has less than 100,000 miles on the clock you might be able to go back to the manufacturer. After 100,000 miles - no chance. So, a learning experience. I hope it can help others not make the mistakes I made...

No, maps for Amundsen are different to Columbus ones. You can find latest maps at Volkswagen Maps & Software Update website - for Amundsen maps pls select Beetle then Discover Media and then download file for required region. No VIN is needed

^^ As above, drivers door master loom may have issues.

Short story: 235/45R17 fits nicely on my stock suspension Octavia 1.8T. Also looks nice and aggresive on Avus Audi S3 17" rims (wider and more offset than stock 17" spyder rims), my intention of keeping the car as a sleeper just went down the drain. Before/after pics below. Long story: So after running around the whole year incognito mode, steel 15" rims 195/65R15 w/o hubcaps, enjoying myself, and faces of unsuspecting BMW drivers - I've done the famous AUM stage 1 remap to 210 hp after which the tyres can't handle the acceleration in first two gears, and made the car almost impossible to accelerate/drive when raining so I had to do something about the grip. The idea was to get ANY cheapo/trash/dank - undamaged 17" rim to fit the standard 225/45R17, I really wanted some Fe rims (again, incognito-sleeper style), but they don't exist in 57,1 5x100 dimensions (there is a 5x100 17" steel rim, but it's for some huge Renault, and I think it's only for the spare wheel, making the rim witdh in range of lol-J). There is a lot to choose in 16" region, but 205 is just too small for the power the car makes, IMHO. I even looked into 215 combinations in 16" and not only there is no performance tyre in this dimension, it's ridiculously expensive. Mind you, I'm running standard setup on all four corners - Bilstein B4 shocks, Bilstein OEM springs - no lowering, I was a click away to order the heightened springs!! I'm never going to be a style-slave, laughing while just casually cruising over speedbumps whereas dropped GTI's/Type-R's/RS's have to do the diagonal idle+clutch maneuvers I also fancied the idea of fitting larger tyres on it, 235/45R17, my flow of thought was the following, pros/cons: + more grip ofcourse + more offset/scrub radius - more initial turn-in, responsiveness on the steering wheel + more accurate speedo + keeping comfort (decent sidewall) + less wear + overall height of car increased, again more comfort + tyre "attack angle" smaller, making it easier to run over obstacles (eg. curbs, speed-bumps), again, even more comfort (you probably noticed a pattern, I'm anti-style oriented, pro-sleeper/comfort style :)) + visually I always liked seeing fat-meaty tyres in the back + only slightly more expensive than 225/45R17 - very little experience on Octavia mk1 + that tyre combo, some say it fit's others say it doesn't - much heavier - slower acceleration - possible rubbing - worse fuel consumption (it's LPG-ed and it's dirt cheap here in Croatia) Anyway, I managed to snatch a great deal on original 17" Audi S3 "Avus" Alu rims (made by Ronal, Made in Germany), bonus points: they are 6 mm more offset and 0.5J wider than standard rims 17" Spyders, making way for wider tyre! All the calculations point to no rubbing with 235/45R17 ( https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-65-15X6ET38&wheel2=235-45-17X7.5ET32&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm left is my standard setup, right is Avus). But a real life test is needed, I don't want to risk spending €€€'s and putting new summer 235's just to find out they don't fit/rub! So I also managed to snatch winter tyres dirt cheap (almost free), Hankook Winter iCept 235/45R17 DOT2016 halfway worn - perfect for testing out the setup - if it fits, great, if it doesn't I spent a few hours and a few bucks demistifying it. Putting on just the rim on the car was a shock, when lifted, viusally seems like ~2 cm more than outline of car, ouch - on the inside though, quite a lot of space; the guys at the wheel shop rolled they eyes constantly We fitted the tyre rim combo, dropped the car, did a run around the lot full lock..... Purrrrfect, no rubbing, and when car is sitting on it's own it's just right, slightly out of car outline, this will be a slight pain to homologate tho. Inital impressions after a few runs: +/- wheels are a stunner, so much for my incognito/sleeper preferences, honestly, looks much more aggressive than the RS... I guess I'll deal with it. + very soft and controlled wheelhop, car doesn't want to break apart when you loose grip + comfortable + better turn-in, much less wobbly car - awfully heavy, steel rims+tyre 16.6 kg, alu rims+tyre 22.4 kg, ouch, you can see the pictures below, but I'll write up for any google search guys to stumble upon this, I find it invaluable info: - 235/45R17 Hankook Winter iCept 1/2 worn: 10.5 kg - Audi S3 Ronal Alu 17" rims: 11.7 kg - 17" above tyre+rim combo: 22.4 kg - 15" stock steel rim + 195/65R15 Pirelli P7 combo: 16.6 kg - noticeably "slower", feeling is the inital throttle response is much lazier, not so agressive as on 15"; can't really blame it, the car couldn't even accelerate before Didn't try the twisties yet, but the idea is to run around a few weeks and notice how the car behaves and if there will be no rubbing in spring get the Goodyears F1 Assy 5 in 235/45R17. @Madket

You can reduce your losses by selling the old ones on Ebay You can write that they are believed to be in good servicable condition because they passed the MOT 8 months ago when Garage X sold the vehicle to you.

few minutes available under three dots in right corner

@EnterName - I wouldn't worry. They've probably got a few suppliers for the camera unit but as long as the handle is the correct shape, I'm sure it's fine. In other news, I've calibrated the highline camera (not required for the aftermarket Chinese kits). I initially tried to use VCDS but none of the security codes worked which appears to be normal with the newer cameras. Instead, I got my trusty VAS5054a out and found a copy of ODIS service v5 online. You'll need a VAS6350 calibration targ et, the dimensions are online so I made a an SVG file and then converted it to a 300dpi 1900x700mm PNG. The forum software doesn't seem to like the PNG for some reason so I've zipped it: vas6350.zip I had the PNG printed locally for under £7 (190x70cm) but you can also play the cutting and sticking game with A4 if you prefer. The VAS6350 needs to be placed correctly on level ground, it seems like there are a few methods but I did the following. Find and mark the centreline of the rear wheels: Find the centreline of the car, I guessed this based on the roof antenna and rear badge: Place the VAS6350 on the car centreline and measure 1700mm from each rear wheel centreline and the first black bar: Fire up ODIS and use the guided function finding. It should spot the not calibrated fault code and walk you through the procedure. Make sure the camera is activated and at some point, it should ask for the distance to the target, target height and the camera height, in my case I think I used 1700mm, 1mm and 890mm. The RVC image will go a bit weird and 30 seconds later, it's all calibrated and no fault codes. Final picture of a very untidy garage: