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You should be checking your tyre pressures regularly anyway. Just like your oil, screenwash, coolant, lights etc. These systems are there to highlight a problem as and when it occurs. They don't eradicate the need for basic maintenance. I could retire if I had a quid for every time I've had to top up someone's fluids or tyre pressures because they couldn't be bothered or didn't know how to.

Just fitted front and rear mudflaps to the vrs so thought I'd post a few pics for fellow members Took around 20 mins to fit without wheel removal. Sourced from superskoda at 15 euro a pair which is significantly cheaper than dealer prices They do sit out a bit proud by design as they have integrated spacer lips All in all I'm happy and they will offer protection and make the rear lower portion of the car look that bit wider

It looks like the following build codes came with the 55mm diameter front shock absorbers. PR-G02 PR-G03 PR-G10 http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2016/drive_standart/753/hg_ug/411/subcategory/411000/part_id/2561497/lang/e http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2016/drive_standart/753/hg_ug/411/subcategory/411001/part_id/2561497/lang/e http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2016/drive_standart/753/hg_ug/411/subcategory/411002/part_id/2561497/lang/e

So guys, it was entirely paint transfer, except for a tiny spot where I think the collision happened. Must have been something like a scooter that fell on it because he made a line that went over the back door handle and continue but did not touch the mirror. I tried removing most of it using WD40 and a microfiber towel, that didn't work very well, I manage to remove most of it by rubbing a bit of it with either a nail or rubbing a bit harder with the cloth. After this, there were fine lines that were probably slightly deeper, I could remove them using a magic sponge eraser. Now you can barely see anything except at the point of impact where it is slightly darker for some reason. I have ordered some Turtle Wax scratch repair and will apply it over. But the thing I am the most relieved about is that it was definitely not intentional, I had a really hard couple of weeks at work, working from home since March. I feel alot better that this was just an accident.

Posties with shoulder bags & delivery people coming down our drive between two cars have been responsible for a few light scratches on our cars. We now leave as much space between them as possible. I've widened the driveway by one flagstone on either side for exactly this reason.

Did exactly the same today. It took me a bit more time since it was -5 °C outside and at half way I needed to go inside to warm up my hands.

What would it be worth in undamaged condition? The category S marker is going to hammer its repaired value. Aircon condesnor holding pressure is a good sign the radiators behind it will be OK, it will just be a bumper beam replacement or straighten it on a press, the one for my Yeti straightened but one crumple zone was slightly deformed and the alignment of the wings, bumper, headlights etc are all reliant on it, for £60 it was better to replace it. Headlight mounting lugs can be repaired by plastic welding, I repaired & retained mine as spares. There will be a couple of bits of plastic cooling ducting damaged, probably the bonnet catch. Its very repairable but if you are paying someone to do it then forget all about it.

PM me your chassis number and I'll have a look.

I can't help regarding fixing the scratch other than to say a good body shop will have it back as new. However, in terms of the scratch that is a very consistent line. It could well be quite innocent an accident, a woman's handbag scraping against it, a ruck sack etc. I had a gouge down the side of my car once and after a week of teeth gnashing I worked out it was my wife's fault, a screw sticking out from the lawn mower and she didn't realise it stuck out as she took it from the front garden to the back past the driveway. My point being, not every scratch is an act of vandalism. An unknowing accident is just as expensive but somehow less annoying than a deliberate scratching.

Finally cleaned up the OEM Triglavs and stacked them in the garage. Used up a whole bottle of Elbow Grease to remove an unusual amount of tar spots from inside the rims. Now like new.

I bought these after quite a bit of research. 10/10.

Made the most of a spell of half decent weather and ceramic coated the car and fitted mud flaps. Really pleased with this colour as I feared it maybe a bit ‘dull’

If there's no explicit exclusion of the seat heaters (since they are technically a separate entity to the seats as the pads and wiring harness etc are available as separate parts) then it should be covered. This was a very common issue on my previous car (Saab 9-3). My heated seat was getting very hot on one side. And then stopped working. The element had burnt out and melted the seat inside. Thankfully I was able to replace the heater pad. Hope you get it sorted.

Sure https://mega.nz/folder/b4VkmDJJ#PE2C7Te_Yl0pw1TydB--Bg

No issues with my two Kodiaqs

If you put it into sport mode and Rev lightly with the back of your hand against the windscreen you will feel the vibration through the screen if it’s using the same methods as the mk3

From a warranty perspective the seat heating pad is an electrical item that has failed in an electrical manner. Be that an open circuit or resistive fault within the pad. I dare say it may have even logged a fault code. It's not considered a trim by any means but it is part of the seat, which that policy excludes.

That is exactly the same as mine (reported earlier in the thread) - 23 months for the main key ........ and the spare had failed by 27 months ........ so don't forget to check your spare!

What a thread revival. Giggled a few times at some of the defensive comments from earlier on which would have otherwise been lost in the ether... Also, I have a pal with a Yeti face-lift who runs 19's. Agreed, they look fantastic!

Think it was 60 euro. I got the boot mat, front and rear mudflaps and front and rear rubber mats. I think it came to 147 euro all in including postage and it took 7 days to arrive to Northern Ireland

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-review/long-term-reviews/vauxhall-corsa-e-2020-long-term-review

OK here, though I do garage it.

Hi Cybrshot, welcome to the forum. The correct charging voltage for a AGM battery is approx. 14.7 VDC - but the battery monitoring module (BCM) will normally only allow the battery to charge to approx. 75-80% of full charge to allow sufficient capacity in the battery for regenerative charging under certain circumstances (this is where the 'micro-hybrid' part comes into play) - 14.2 VDC is around what I see on my Octavia with the hood up. This does mean that you will usually find the battery below full charge. If the 02252 regulator fault does not clear, it may be that the regulator is faulty - or it may be that the fault wasn't reset previously although my understanding is that this would normally reset itself once the battery had been replaced. Have you attempted to reset this fault? Is your engine idle-stop working correctly now? Does the screen clear before switching off?

Thank you so much

Wow ! I've never thought that my 4x4 could have such "off road" ability, even from 6minute mark... A 'Scout' version or a Kodiaq might be recommended for such use. I feel even amazed that one can think of activating launch control on such a 'poor road'... Probably because car testers don't use their own cars...

@parsey83 why the groan reaction?

Items 11, 9, 12 here I think wishbone; axle guide; wheel bearing housing - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com) The 2nd part number for the bolt superseded the first one in 2011, no idea why Buy 1K0501387D eccentric bolt Skoda, Volkswagen genuine OEM part (oemwolf.com)

Hi Thanks, yes seen this on you tube explains it well 👍

Here is a video which may be helpful. Same procedure except you will need to drill out the pop rivets as his is bolted...

They are not absolutely essential. I had a Mk2 Fiesta 950cc that had no shields on the front as standard.

I've been tight so far and cut down the one from my Passat to fit 🤣

Oh I also saw Coasting in text a few times today also, but the Driving mode was Normal. I haven't even selected Eco mode yet tbh..

I read your reply as the batteries internal circuitry, is that not what you meant?

Since the Haldex Gen 4 the 4x4 kicks in automatically from stand still and in any acceleration and critical driving situation, not just when front wheel slip is detected. The SIII has got a Gen5 system fitted. As mentioned above it is programmed to split 50:50 front and rear if need be or as little as 95:5. With software tweaks it can be rejigged to a rear wheel bias. Audi used to use the Torsen in the in-line engine setups, but is also using transverse 4s now where a Haldex is more beneficial.

When i enlarged the images most looked like that but that of the rear panel looked jagged & zigzaggy like a vandalism scratch. WD40 on a soft cloth will probably remove the transferred paint, I will be stoked if you save yourself £450 and that you can blame it on a poor driver rather than someone malicious.

Sure. I will check tomorrow.

Is that a scratch or another paint colour that has been transferred from a sideswipe? The front looks like it could be, the rear not. If it is then it will probably polish out. If it is a scratch is it all white in colour or does it go deeper through the paint to the primer or bare metal? If the former then its just the clear coat that is scratched and may well flat & polish out by someone patient & experienced, the art is not going through to the paint coat. At the very least you might get it looking 90% better without any outlay.

The 2lt turbo was known to be a little weak on the mk2 from what I have read on here 1.9 a little lesser known. The outlay on a new car and depreciation could be just as big a cost as say a turbo or clutch/DMF. The road tax is a factor I suppose but the savings aren’t massive. Our 1.2 105 TSI Leon is a good replacement for a 1.9TDI I love the turbo charged pull, still I love the PD shove against my Superb 2 170 CR. Please drive a CR engine see if you like it.

Yeah, I see. That's probably an exception due to a combination of factors like setting off on minimum traction conditions, amount of steering lock etc. The Haldex algorithm takes a lot of factors into account in deciding how much it should engage the rear axle and varies it continuously. In reality, in 2 years of owning the car I have not once managed to get the ESP to flash due to loss of traction including driving in the rain, and I do have quite some extra torque than stock going through those axles too...

Yup... I'd suggest using a 'print to PDF' function for long term storage

If you're staying on OEM shocks then yeah maybe go for a spring that doesn't drop as much as H&R - Eibach pro are your only choice really. It's not the springs that are crashy or bad, it's the compatibility of your shocks and springs. OEM setup isn't sure what it's doing in my opinion, it wants to be a soft sensible family car but also they've dropped the height from a normal Octavia and it also wants to be 'sporty'. It's neither in reality! Either swap the springs out for Eibach pro and lose the more aesthetically pleasing ride height, or keep the HR springs and get some decent shocks to pair up with them (Bilstein B8 or something). I've done HR springs and whiteline rear ARB - it does massively improve the car on turn in, in terms of less boaty pitch and roll, but the shocks are still letting the side down, so going to HR coilovers and front and rear H&R ARB's while it's up on the ramp. I'm under no illusion that it won't be as soft, but I can't stand the indecisive personality of the OEM suspension. I think B8's and HR springs would be the best bet, but I couldn't help think that for a few more quid I could get decent branded coilovers (TUV gepruft too!)

The Blue Beestie with the Passat alloys and the 215/55/16 winters. Not really noticed any negatives in steering or in handling. Usual road noise increase from the winters but apart from that it’s all good. Next will be window tinting once the lockdown is eased.

If its the same as all the other VAG cars, which id assume it is, then 1psi wont do it but its more sensitive than 10psi easily. I average about 2 punctures a year and apart from completely flat overnight obvious ones etc, the TPMS gets the tyre deflation every time when has a screw/slow leak etc. in it. It even picks up when you rotate the tyres and forget to reset the tyre pressures.

It’s a nice ass alright

Lane 'assist' may work on motorways but on country roads it is the most dangerous bit of kit I have ever come across. When you are getting near the hedge it is trying very hard to steer you into a head on collision with the tractor you would rather avoid. It also seems to be very good at reading the blobs of glue left over from temporary road studs, rather that the nice new while line about eighteen inches further over. It will quite happily try to steer you into the side of the Artic. It's a good idea in theory but is somewhat lacking in reality. There really needs to be a way of turning it off permanently (an axe perhaps?).

I actually think the onboard technology is above-par on the Scala, in general. I do also have to click the OK button on startup on the Amundsen screen, but that's about the only minor faff. Lane assist is not perfect, but then nor is the lane assist on my Volvo V90. It certainly doesn't warrant diving into the menus each time to switch it off at the start of each journey. With the climate control, if you leave it in Auto mode, you don't need to keep diving into the menus to change the blower direction, fan speed etc as it self-regulates. Compared to other recent cars I've owned, the climate control in the Scala is pretty decent. Rarely need to touch the controls at all and the full front windscreen max setting button is great if you ever get any condensation.

When Lane assist puts anyone into a ditch they might post on here telling us.

Mike - You are truly amazing! A sincere BIG thank you for these. They have already helped me removing the trim we spoke of yesterday and I'm sure they will continue to assist not only me but many others here at Briskoda. 5 Huge Gold Stars from me......I'm sure many others will feel the same! My very best regards......Tony