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@ColinDIs @Carlstonactually a human member or a Bot? I did wonder if it was a special feature of Briskoda. It is just that the member never says where they are, where they drive, what they drive, Then they have links to the full choice or Steel or Alloy Rims, Tyres, Suspension and brake parts world wide. The obsession with smaller rims might be brilliance or some coding error.

http://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/how-porsche-911-became-icon

I had a selection of lights come on after disconnecting the battery. They all went off after a short drive. You may need to reset the windows and pano roof, see manual for details.

The denso plugs where gapped to 0.6mm on standard coil packs you absolute helmet

It is basically being marketed as a compact SUV right now and being launched to rival 2 of the biggest players in this segment which are the Hyundai Creta and Kia Seltos (Both from the same parent company apparently). A compact SUV actually is actually just a bigger hatchback IMO. Marketed as a SUV but you shouldn't take it off-roading This is just the prototype version though....the actual production car won't be having any major changes AFAIK. Engine options are very limited; the 1.0 lit and 1.5 lit are the only 2 options being offered and that too in petrol (Gasoline).....this won't sit too well with Indian consumers as we are very well addicted to our diesel powertrains (till BS-V Emission norms kicked in we had diesel engines in small hatchbacks with displacement as low as 793 cc) due to the rising costs of fuels..... As it is, Skoda is considered as a premium brand in India so the Kushaq will be priced accordingly. Only time will tell if the sales figures will be anywhere near the Hyundai Creta or the Kia Seltos both starting priced at approx. 10 Lakh INR (13,705 USD or 10,045 Pound sterling)

Nice one Trevor, as Lofty said some good stuff you got there, I could do with some better struts as well. Looking forwards to further posts on this tidy lot. Martin

The whole cambelt debate. Earlier Mk3 cars - definately do at 60k/5 years - waterpump. Later MK3/FL cars - you can leave it for 120k miles, but I wouldn't want to risk it.

A tidy little collection of upgrades there Trevor. The diff will make the world of difference (pardon the pun).

yesterday i "accepted" to APR's terms and conditions!!! Stage 1 High Torque ECU tune. boy oh boy!! i forgot how much fun a tune can be!! car has transformed nicely. tuner guy was saying the 4th gear 80-120km/h test dropped from 5+ secs to 3 secs!! in theory, its now doing 320 hp (240 kW), 381 ft-lbs (510 Nm). happy as can be

Have been thinking of making a topic for a while, so here I am. Please don't judge my language, as I'm from somewhere cold and far away Estonia. Anyway, by the end of August in 2015, our old Mondeo was feeling as old as dino and at the time my fiancee requested on getting something newer (she disliked the 1.8 TCi tractor engine mostly). We even went to take test drive new Octavias, but since bank was not kind enough to offer good conditions based on our estimated annual mileage, we had to opt for used one. After rather long search I ended up on high mileage (compared to other similar cars from Germany) car nearby. I quickly checked the car and liked it and it led to my first and so far last fight with my soon-to-be wife - neither of us wanted to drive the old Ford. And here is a picture of it 20 minutes after signing all the documents- Hooraay Lauri, You had just bought another car for Swedish bank Car is pretty much packed with optional stuff, missing satnav, electric seats with memories and leather (or half leather, as I've never seen full lether seats yet) and towbar - Xenons, auto-wipers, lightning pack, jumbo box and everything else essential was already there. So then I drove it a lot in all kinds of conditions - mud, snow, ice, sand - and was pleased. First major brakedown was ignition lock. And when mileage hit 400 000 km ( ca 250 000 miles), another VAG service was need to take care of the top-end of engine, reconitioned head and a lot of new parts. Later, another pile of new parts was needed to clear the mess left behind incompetent mechanics. So, at 420 000 km (260 000 miles), following list of parts was changed: 1) Cylinder head 2) Camshaft + tappets 3) Front springs + support bearings 4) 2x unit injectors to mach up the set to equal ones 5) Full set of poly bushes 6) Front and rear disks + pads 7) Rear wiper motor 8) Fuel tank straps 9) Headlamp washers 10) 3rd brake light 11) Some inlet tubing and locking rings 12) ... By the time our little son was born, Skoda was waiting for a third garage to finish with axle adjustments and we had purchased VW Sharan 4Motion to cover our expanded requrements in interiour space so Skoda sat sadly for most of the summer until le wild winter arrived in October with a lot of snow and it quickly became our most popular car again ( I also have a 2.0 Hdi engined Peugeot Partner for extra eco-driving) After long thinking on how to reduce number of cars in household, we chose to keep Skoda nad Pug and sell the VW as the most complex and un-economical car. By moving in to our countryside house, we don't need to carry as much things as we used to keep the VW just because it looks nice and has nice seats. I'll try to keep You guys posted with pictures from past and present. Cheers, Lauri

Not been on here for a while but popped on today for some advice and started to wonder, has anyone had their car from new for longer than us? We bought our vRS new in April 2011 so it'll be 10 years old in 2 months. It's not going anywhere for a few years at least. How long have you owned yours for? Can anyone beat 10 years from new?

This review was posted in the Karoq section of Briskoda initially, but thought those who frequent the Performance and Tuning Section might also be interested. Recently had my Karoq Sportline 2.0TSI 190 TSI 4x4 tuned and wanted to share my experience. The ECU tune was provided by TVS Engineering who are based in the Netherlands. They have dealers/workshops throughout the UK (and the world) that can install the tune. I chose their Stage 2 ECU remap - this is their maximum performance tune available for a stock engine. They claim up to 280hp and 450Nm, compared to the stock 190hp and 320Nm. The engine installed in this car is an EA888 Gen 3B with a Bosch ECU. The tuning shop I took the car to needed it overnight to unlock the ECU, flash the base Stage 2 tune onto the ECU, and then do some performance runs and logging. They then send these logs/data to TVS in the Netherlands for assessment where the necessary tweaks are made to fine tune the file. This back and forth can occur several times until both TVS and the tuning shop are happy with the results, and the final tune is flashed to the car. So they effectively take a ‘base’ tuning file and fine tune it to your individual car. They can also do a custom tune – ie - you can specify the increase in power and torque (within limits of course). My car is stock except for the ECU tune - no hardware mods. I’ll probably add an aftermarket cold air intake in the future for some increased induction and turbo spool sound. The attached performance figures were recorded using a Dragy GPS Performance Meter. Using launch control the car ran consistent 0-60 MPH (0-96 KM/H) times of 5.2 to 5.3 seconds over several runs. From a standing start (no launch control) the car ran 6.1 to 6.3 seconds. Temperature was 18 degrees Celsius with high humidity at time of testing, on a dry track. This is in comparison to a stock 0-60 MPH time of 6.9 seconds using launch control. 1/4 mile time was recorded as 13.8 seconds. The Sport Information readout in the car’s infotainment screen now indicates maximum power of 248hp, but unsure of how accurate this is. However using an OBDEleven scanning tool ‘Nominal Torque’ is now rated at 470Nm, with a live data readout showing a peak of 480Nm. The car wasn’t put on a dyno, but rather data logging was completed on closed circuit roads. There was the option to dyno the car, however the tuning shop didn’t deem it necessary unless I wanted a readout of hp and torque gains. I was mildly curious to see what the car would pull on the dyno, but already had a good idea what the final figures would be based on previous tunes TVS had published on their Facebook page with customer's cars. Obviously the car feels significantly quicker than stock. It seems to accelerate just a quickly in third/forth gear as it does in first/second gear, leaving me wondering if torque/power is being limited in first/second gear. Third/forth gear acceleration seems especially rapid. The engine feels stronger in both Normal and Sport driving modes, with Sport mode feeling particularly more lively. There is still a small amount of low rpm lag until approx. 1800rpm, but this is followed by a rapid and smooth power delivery all the way to redline. The car is deceptively quick at times because of the linear way in which power is delivered. The car was also remapped with the TVS Stage 2+ DSG (TCU) tune to handle the extra torque and power that the engine now makes. It has improved gear shift times, stops the transmission upshifting too soon, and provides a smoother low speed driving experience compared to the jerky and frustrating stock DSG tune. Overall I’m happy with the gains and how the car is performing so far. Happy to answer questions. 0-60 MPH: 0-100 km/h: 1/4 Mile:

19” 8j wheels are standard. The 16” wheels are listed on the fuel filler cap as winter tyres for car. The speedo is slightly more optimistic with winter tyres on eg at a true 50 it reads 55. With 19” it would read 54.

As you loosen the Torx screws, try to keep the bumpstops in place, otherwise they'll drop away from their original position and you'll have the devil's own job to know or go back to where you start from. Three hands will help! Try one side at a time, then the other, then back to the first one, making tiny adjustments and check after every one. It will take time but otherwise you'll just be getting lost. I thought my rattle was some loose trim or a rear seat catch, until I tried the bump stops. If I recall correctly one was out a different direction than the other. (There is another thread on here unconnected with boot rattles, about the bottom corners of the hatch not lining up properly to the bumper, out by a couple of mm. I've looked at several cars at my local dealers and they all vary, but it is a narrow range. Your adjustments might or might not produce a slight gap. However it's only noticeable if you know it exists and look for it. Having seen the horrendous and laughable panel gaps and trim misalignments on a Tesla S down my road, a car costing around three times my Karoq, I think I've got the better deal.)

What size are you fitting? Uniroyal Rainsport 5s are wet focused tyres, so work very well in the rain. The tread pattern is designed to reduce aquaplanning. 195/50R15 82V (about £40.65) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b0s99p188253/Uniroyal_Tyres_Car_Uniroyal_RainSport_5_-_195_50_R15_82V_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_71dB Skoda Fabia 2005 1.9TDi vRS – Generation: Mk1 6Y [1999 .. 2007] [EUDM] – Power: 129 hp | 96 kW | 131 PS – Engine: I4, Diesel – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2003 .. 2007] Tire Rim PCD 195/50R15 82V 6Jx15 ET43 5x100 2.2 / 2.3 195/45R16 82V 6.5Jx16 ET43 5x100 2.1 / 2.2 205/45R16 82V 6.5Jx16 ET45 5x100 2.1 / 2.2 205/40ZR17 82W 7Jx17 ET45 5x100 2.1 / 2.2

I will testify in court and take a polygraph happily.

It's still f'ugly no matter how many vids of it are posted...

Had my VRS MK2 PFL since new, it's a 2007 and it's got 75500 miles on it. Trev

@mac11irlIt has a different wheel base from a Karoq. (It gets as standard some safety related stuff that has been a requirement to be standard in the EU from the factory for a few years.)

All I can think of is sometimes the steering light might come on but it will go off as soon as you start driving.

Thanks, MCG1975 - for taking the time to reply. Fingers x'd, and I will return with an update on what happens at the dealership. Unfortunately, my mechanical knowledge is limited and so to attempt anything myself is out of the question. Fortunately family members are guiding me ethically and legally with this scenario to avoid being duped by nerd speak from technicians and salespeople who attempt to confuse the innocent car owner into parting with unnecessary piles of dosh! Cheers.

That is a really good point. They don't just change parts because a customer wants them to, someone has to approve the work. You shouldn't have to, but if it's really winding you up and the dealer is not fixing, you could replace them yourself. CarParts4less or similar will sell known quality parts cheaply enough. I would be tempted for the sake of £60 to fit Pagid parts.

@LambdelorianWelcome. The issue with brake squeal and the need to try different pads is certainly known to Skoda. If it is a characteristic of the car then the Engineers messed up. There will be new and used Fabia mk3 at the dealership without this characteristic, so are they faulty and those buying these cars missing out? What actual job or position / Job Title of the person at the Dealership saying this to you? Was it a Service Desk person / Service Manager or a Technician? Get them to put it in writing with their name and job title that they tell you Skoda do not know, and also have them put why they are not telling them of customers issues. ? Why did Skoda approve the discs and pads being replaced if they are unaware of the issue? The Dealership never footed the bill.

Btw did you follow his beautiful Espada series? Utterly gorgeous. Although I am still not sure about his roof mod.

Harry has become a firm favourite for me. Harry, Steve Sutcliffe (probably my favourite road tester) and Chris Harris are a class above the rest in my book. Harris is a slightly younger version of Steve Sutcliffe, but I don't think there is anyone comparable to Harry. He doesn't just spout the press junket, he is first and foremost a car fan and gives snippet of info that are fascinating. His depth of knowledge is astounding. Perhaps it's a voice thing? I do like a man with a calm voice, rather than the usual histrionics that car reviewers have these days and that ruddy forced laughter they all eschew!!!! Don't get me started Mat Watson (I do like the Car Wow 'stick of truth' however)

Its best practice to disconnect the battery whilst playing with airbags, I do believe you could reconnect the battery afterwards and as long as you don't turn the ignition on it shouldn't bring the light on, but I havn't tried it for a number of years.

I ran denso for almost a year at a gap of 0.4mm as the plugs implied on the box the gap should not be adjusted and they did run fine for probably 8 months or so then the misfires started back so moved to NGK BKR7(2667) and haven’t really looked back, no misfires, no rough idle and most likely by pure luck Ive never had an coil issues. Went stage 2 in December 2019 and was recommended by RTMG that I gap the NGK’s to 0.8mm as I was running more power so I immediately done so and all was good, never had any issues whatsoever apart from clutch slip in 2nd gear when red lined in “s mode”, that is solved by changing gear a bit earlier and rarely cause me issues. I had a friend running stage 2 by Ecotune on his forged 1.4 tfsi running 280 bhp, early teething problems seen him returning back to Ecotune to get the map adjusted a couple of time but they did sort eventually, credit to them. Again I can only go on my experience with plugs on these cars and from what knowledge I’ve learned online from other users and I wouldn’t discredit Denso however personally it would be NGK for me as I’m running R8 coils with the BKR7’s these days without a hitch, I never gapped these new plugs as left them at 0.6mm with the new coils and they have been absolutely fine.

Have them check cabin fuse 26.

What I've said is still true. Across numerous applications the consensus is a cleaner and higher powered spark from the Denso spark plugs, but they don't have as long a life. You can apply that knowledge to a twincharger and make a judgement call for yourself really. Would rather my car had no misfires at all for a solid year than i could run it for 2 years and it'll miss a beat occasionally. Side note though: I've never known an engine be so affected by different brands of fuel before. I had to fill with 97 Esso the other day, had no 99 nearby and it HATES it. Even with the Denso plugs (about 3k old) it misfires a smidge on idle (not picked up with a OBD, but I can hear it) The uprated NGK plugs are a recommendation of most mapping companies, wouldn't stray from that. That's all I meant by running them on a remapped car.

Not really on two counts. The car was only £23,500 new including Moon White metallic paint (no other options because we liked the standard SEL spec) with a discount of £1,500 from Skoda, then I honestly believe the 6 speed manual in the Karoq is more economical than the 7 speed DSG which adds weight also just look at our overall 46mpg over 29,000 miles which is good for a petrol 150PS SUV shaped spacious family car. The DSG works better with a diesel like my Superb plus in the winter if it snows I take the Karoq because you have more control in bad weather with a manual gearbox than with the DSG. A new Karoq with DSG and metallic paint now costs more than the Edition did 3 years ago and I was seriously tempted at the time to order a manual Edition with the beige leather interior and red paint instead. The Alcantara interior of our SEL also looks like a brand new car and friends have commented how premium the interior looks and feels for a Skoda.

Thank a lot! This is really helpful. I could use this to predict and prepare for the potential services and parts Also, it shows that this so-called Skoda Authorised Dealership hasn't done the DSG Oil Change at the correct Year & Milage. I got the DSG Oil Change done with my first service at 54000 miles. I hope it would not be a problem.

Google "VW or Skoda Independent garage" I've never used main dealer since having my vRS (6 years) or ask around on here for recommendations within your area! I use (unit18) for all my servicing & add-ons, plus you get that proper client satisfaction service from an independent garage.

As long as you have extracted the MIB1 file, followed the instructions! It really is simple, only thing I can suggest is make sure the USB key is inserted & hold down the power button on the stereo until it reboots & see if you can then do the update! do you need a set of instructions? PM me your email address.

It does appear out of character for @Carlston previous posts. All posts bar the odd one in the swedish members area should ideally be in english. TY.

How come your post appears in a different language?

Yeah it’s sitting back up on the rear now, but still running spacers on the rear, blooming Pre-FL and its narrow rear track! One of Southparks finest - Maybe if I just get a little high I’ll remember

Beep on locking is already supported. After activating you can tun it on/off in the menu. Will post un updated here after the meet. I don't have a fixed date yet. You can also watch some videos of the new Octavia and the new Golf here: https://www.youtube.com/user/MtlCarGarage

My Fab has never had this part fitted but it doesn't really bother me.

Fitted at the weekend: 8.5Jx19 225/35’s

I have found that putting it into "Sport" mode seems to make it a bit more eager to get going - the problem seems to be that if you don't quite give it enough gas, it will change out of 1st gear quite quickly and then hesitate if you put your foot down. Need to adapt my driving style!

It was an option, not all Facelifts have it.

Package arrived today. No import charges etc. All good

Today marks 1 year of me owning the Monte Carlo. Its been a pretty great car in that year. I think I may have been mistaken on the drop links being worn out, it clunks when turning the wheel when stationary and there is a bit of play at 9 and 3 on both front wheels. Most likely track rod ends. I'll head down to the motor factors today and see how much they are. Cant imagine they would be much more than 20 euro or so a side. I still will get new drop links and d bushes but I'll push it off until I'm sure that its track rod ends that are worn. I would imagine worn track rod ends would explain the "loose" feeling i've been getting lately. The weather should be starting to clear up soon so I'll get stuff in order to give the car a good polish. Been meaning to paint the front brakes too but I've been spending most of my spare time working on my Mk1 Fabia and trying to get it to be somewhat roadworthy.

out again this morning, dame route and within a few seconds of the same time. pic of "mah whip" as the young folk might say... oh yeah, circa 1991 Emmelle Corniche fixed frame 21 speed. weighs approx 75tonnes. i think its vintage now?

I had one of the vRS wheels off of my mk1 fabia and wanted to see how it would look on this. Honestly not bad. Might need to get some tires on them and use them for the next month or so, The frost has taken chunks out of every road and it'd be nice to have some extra rubber to soak up the bumps.

If I'd known that technique on Friday when I did Polo's OSF I'd've just got the missis to sit on the front wing for a minute while I got some straps on it.

Evening all, Hoping you all can help me. Its my first post, so sorry if this is a) a thread that exists and I missed it or b) the wrong place! After getting bored of the 20/30s mpg from my 54 plate celica, I bought my Fabia VRS around 3 years ago, with around 65k on the clock. I was doing mega miles at the time (25/30k a year - so you can imagine what the poor celica looked like) and thought a tiny car with an enormous tdi would be a half decent replacement. Last year, I still hadn't bonded with it. It just felt like a decision I'd made with my head, over my heart - so i made the decision to start upgrading some bits to see if I could entice a bit more character out of it, while not destroying it/me if I ever needed to do a long journey in it. Its now at 115k, mapped to just shy of 170bhp/295 lbft (economy/daily, no smoke) a fresh clutch (i dont have time for breakdowns so tend to indulge in preventative maintenence) and some other little bits like sound deadening / wind delfectors so I can have the windows open. Services used to happen every 6-10 months (between 10-12k miles). It rarely gets caned, its more of a commuter/ mile muncher! Recently, I fear all the bits that have been loosening up over time are catching up with it. There's a definite groaning/clunking/squeaking from The front off side corner (which I'm starting to think is the shocks/top mounts on their way out). It seems like one of the interior lights (drivers position) has died, no matter what bulb goes in it. (The centre/passenger are fine) Finally, its developed a clunk/crunch between first and second - comes out of g1 fine, tightens up at the start of g2, grinds a little and then pops in. It only does this between 1-2. Are these bits (I'll live with the light that won't turn on) going to add up to be expensive? Finally, is it worth fixing? I know it could be more the devil you knowledge, but the poor thing barely moves now, as I mostly work from home. Happy to listen to your advice, and thanks for reading! Adam Utilitairian pic attached for attention, who needs a big boot when you can always go upwards 🤣