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I've never bought one or, to my knowledge, been charged for one. I used to know the parts manager in a local dealer and he just bunged it in the oil filter box. You're right about not needing one. My garage of choice never fitted any. Got about three in my garage.

The key point is that any journey has to be for an allowed reason - exercise (once a day and staying local), shopping, caring for someone or going to work (if you can't work from home), so going out for a drive 'for the sake of it' is NOT allowed. That means that matmacka's statement that " I carry on using my car as no rules against it in your local area" isn't correct, as every time you go out in your car it has to be for an allowed reason. I may be more keen than most on helping people to comply with the regulations after having spent time in Intensive Care with Covid-19 in January - during which time the doctors told me that there were 3 days when my condition wasn't improving and it was 'touch and go' whether I would be leaving the hospital feet first in a wooden box

It’s going to be like the M25 at rush hour after lockdown. Everyone seems to be planning it. I’m waiting. I want to actually drive it, not get stuck 20 cars deep behind a motor home.

This may or may not be related but thought I'd add it as it may be relevant in the very near future. Google is amending their photo storage (15Gb) capacity again which will limit the amount of photos able to be stored with a free account. This will also depend if users have a Google phone or not (and it's age) plus in what resolution the backup is being made.

Car's been laid up pretty much since the middle of january due to ill health and being in hospital. Took it out when i was feeling abit better, thought it would be difficult to start but fired up straight away. Traction isn't great in the snow though Also noticed that since its been parked up someones managed to fit the nearside rear bumper. was only just painted when it was at darkside last year just when they openned the body shop.

Gave it its first wash since I got it just over a week ago

had new car prep done at local detailers Inspired Automotive in Wakefiled as usual from them an absolutely stunning job, machine polish and ceramic coated i have a couple of photos, they have uploaded this vid to Youtibe and he is sending over some better photos that i will share later on when i get them

As there seems to be a lot of people asking questions about this lately, I thought I'd put together a quick guide showing how I fitted my reverse camera to a facelift VRS hatchback. They way that i've fitted this will apply to most models, with the key differences being the size of handle (based upon car model year) and whether hatch or estate (but this is just inside trim differences), there may also be wiring loom differences for earlier cars or none VRS models. I've benefited from info from these forums so hopefully this will be useful to others. I am by no means an expert & I won't be able to answer all of your questions, hopefully others will chip in and can add other info as well. First of all, this is the camera that I ordered for my MY 2017 VRS (Camera A/Handle A): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000230897829.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.40694c4dTEPT93 (link may no longer be valid when you read this so screenshot below) No programming is required for this camera and it supports dynamic reverse guidelines Tools: Trim removal tools would be useful, but otherwise plastic tool that won't mark your car, or screwdrivers or similar with masking tape over the end. A T20 torx head tool is required if you have a hatchback to remove the pulldown boot strap Cable rods are very useful, I couldn't have fitted through the roof lining without. Stereo removal tools unless they come with your camera kit Cable route - I went with an OEM route for my cabling, following existing cables through the roofliner and out to the back as show by the red line below. The camera: The first thing that I did was to check that the boot release switch was working on the new unit - there's no way you want to wire this in and find it is faulty. You'll need to start removing the boot trim to access it. Remove the plastic clips from the lower boot trim- this consists of a few plastic clips which easily pop out with trim remover/screwdriver. There are 8 of these on the hatchback. After that start removing the upper plastic trim, this simply requires forces to release the metal clips. You don't need to remove all of this for now, but it will all need to come off later Remove the lower upholstered trim covering the tailgate. More metal clips - work your way around. You'll also need to remove the pull down strap with the T20 torx head. When this is down you should be able to drop the boot liner which will give access to the boot release handle. This can be awkward to remove, but can be done by pushing in the clip on one on the ends whilst also pushing down on the handle from the inside (ignore the clips along its length) - it should then pop out. Repeat for the other side. Unplug the harness and plug the new handle in - check the release switch works. You can either now push the new handle in until it clips, or leave it out to test the video connection later before fitting. To wire it in Remove the glovebox (open, rock left to right whilst pulling up & you'll hear the bottom clips release. Raise the glovebox lid up and inside the housing and reach in and remove the dampening on the left hand side) Use the stereo release keys to release the multimedia unit. The kit used here comes with a replacement harness that sits between the original one and the media unit & includes the video feed cable. Some people have removed the upper glovebox section to provide more access, be careful not to unplug the airbag connector if you do this. This can be fiddly, but I found the best way was to lie on my back with my head in footwell looking up at the unit from underneath. With the media unit slid fowards this gives access to the harness. It's the large one at the bottom and there is a locking connecting that needs to be pushed backwards to release. Check how it works on your replacement harness. Unplug old harness and plug it in to one end of the new one, push the harness in to the void and plug the new connector block in to the media unit. This took me a while to get it all to fit in. When done you can now test the video feed to the rear camera before your start wiring it in permanently. I took the camera cable over the top of the fusebox cage & out through the side panel I then ran the cable up the A Pillar to the roof lining and all the way to the end. Cable rods were really useful at this point, especially to get around the B pillar , and to go from the end of the roof liner through the cable exit point behind the rubber trunking where the original boot cables are. You can also run the cable in the trim above the sill and work your way back up to the roof lining on the C pillar. When you get to the end of the roof lining you'll need to unclip the rubber gator at the top of the boot so you can get the cable out of the roof liner and in to the boot via this gator. If you install the same way as me you only need to peel the roof liner down a few cm, being careful not to deform or damage it and you'll see the OEM cables behind. Once you've got the cable this far it's a case of feeding it through the rubber gator, up the side of the boot and over to the handle; connect the video cable and tidying up any spare cable. Everything should now be up and running. Retrace your steps to refit your trim. You now have a fully working reverse camera, activated when reverse is selected and with dynamic guidelines. The parking sensor guide now shifts to the left of the screen the same as an OEM reverse camera. I will come back and re-edit this tomorrow and resize pics as it's getting late. I'll tidy up any errors as I see them so please don't jump on me straight away!

Which one did you go for ? How much did it cost inc fitting? Who fitted it ? How have you found it compared to before ?

I'm approaching 2 years of ownership of my my 2016 1.2 tsi SE and today had my original battery changed at Halfords for one of their EFB013 65Ah ones. Having watched the demise of my original Moll battery using a voltmeter over the past year and reading the stop/start issues on these forums I thought might add what happened with the voltages in my experience. Prior to replacement the battery would charge at 14.9 to 15.0V with the engine running and/or driving AT ALL TIMES but would drop to just above 12V on turning the ignition off falling to 10.8V the next morning and this is the point at which, unsurprisingly, the car struggled to start. With the new battery the charge, whilst driving with the foot on the accelerator was, 12.4V rising to 14.9V when the foot was taken off the accelerator and back to 12.4V when replaced. This was with all aux systems switched off other than driving lights. With the interior fan set at setting 2 the lower voltage was 13.4V. The response time for the voltages to rise and fall with the accelerator movement was 1 to 2 seconds each and every time. Sound exciting? Well it was for me because I was experiencing the much mentioned charging over-run. On returning home after a short drive the resting voltage was 12.8V and holding....and of course the stop/start function has returned whilst the battery is in it's good and new state of charge. This was all with the charge control lead attached to the negative terminal. Now a word of warning. Euro Car Parts, as an example, offered me a cheap standard non EFB or AGM battery when I typed in my car's registration number. I must admit to being surprised at this and it shows these systems are fallible. It doesn't know my car has stop/start fitted. It's good to see the system working as it should (at the moment) but it shows that the over-run charging happens all the time on short trips and not, as has been suggested, only on long trips. This being the case it seems that the system works ok IF you have a healthy battery. Well it does in my case at the moment and I will keep.an open mind and monitor how it goes. If you are getting a constant charging rate of 14.8-15.0V your battery is on it's way out and taking off the battery charge monitor lead will make no difference. Halfords service was excellent by the way, it's annoying you need all the gizmos to fit a new battery and the extra charge (no pun intended) to fit it. If you offset that against the current £20 annual road tax and the fact that you will be paying a chunk of that battery cost if it were a standard battery you feel a little better about it. Anyway those were my findings 🙂

Hi everyone so I did a range test with new Octavia iV Style trim with I believe 204 HP. If I am not mistaking, only RS version comes with 245 HP. Wanted to do a winter range test but it turned out to be quite warm starting at 12 ending up with 15 Celsius. At first my idea was to do only city driving but I wanted to hear the noise lvl on the highway, I think it could be better compared to some EV cars I tested. I got the car for limited time so I spent bit more time on highway in order to deplete the battery. Managed to get back to the dealer with 1 km range. Got the car with 90-ish percent with 46 km range on display, driven 3 km to parking where I started to record the video. AC was on 20 later turned it up to 22 (driver side) other was on ECO. I was quite surprised I manage to pass 72 km driving only electric. Now I even wonder can I do 80 km or more if I didn’t go to the highway.

You will need VAG specific diagnostics to code it in. If you don't have anything yourself, have a look here:

Czechoslovakia hasn't existed since 1993.

Hi All, have been reading for a while as used to have a mk3 VRS estate but never got around to signing up as spent a few years in a 3 series since then Picked this up a few days ago and very impressed with the newer model so far

I know you can drive to the shops but we have a linear driveway and because I'm always in my partners cars always in front of it. I have driven to exercise a couple of times but it's not quite the same is it, just trying to do my bit by following the rules for now.

@LoveYeti - I got mine on AliExpress. It was recommended by the RCD330 seller Lemon Shark who supplied the head unit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950297895.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.74964c4dLrAMSm When connected it's a bit bulky. It was a bit of an effort sliding the head unit in with the new harness, but it worked in the end after trying a few times. Good luck!

If I recall, I made my own Have a look on aliexpress for 40 pin to 52 pin quadlock adaptors, as long as it's the correct way round, it should be fine.

Hi guys, im in need of a bonnet for my 2013 white Monte Carlo estate. I have had a look on ebay and struggling to find anything. Can you guys tell me weather the pre face lift models have the same bonnet? Or if the standard fabia’s post facelift will fit the Monte Carlo Estate? I have googled it and can’t find an answer. Trying to widen my options! Thanks

a little clip for you.... video-1613845317.mp4

Had this problem 5 to 6 times yesterday thought I will document it here since this can be a common problem, when slowing down in traffic the car just dies without any warning light on the dash. All the electrical systems like Stereo,AC Blower etc will be working fine at the time. Also when tried to restart the car it will start in the first crank. Some thing to do with Fuel pump, relays etc. Only error code recorded was a P249 which o think is not related..

Sensor is replaced now. The seal was little bit worn out.

Thanks. Can only hope it’s updated at some point. £700 is a lot extra to pay for it.

333 thats good, I had stage 2 with full custom stainless exhaust and sports cat and silicon turbo inlet pipe, running on 99RON fuel hit 320 on the rollers. What power output did yours show before the remap ? Think from memory mine was 235 (that was with the exhaust and intake fitted obviously) How are you finding the power in the wet ? Can't put my foot down in 2nd, and have to be careful in 3rd As for the OP, I have a bit of a woosh noise in lower gears coming off boost now, I just assumed it was normal due to the higher boost we are running.

Polishing exhaust tips could turn into a full time job. I did mine during lockdown 1 & even with minimal mileage they have carboned up again pretty quick.

I had an Audi A4 Sport with the 130PS 1.9PD and the 6 speed gearbox - I had it mapped to 180PS and never had any problem with the gearbox.

Can't get the China version retro version l&k badges any more, so I went on a mission to recreate the logo myself and get it produced. Happy enough with how it came back, it's the skoda badge from 1905. Also started polishing the tailpipes

Yes, got the same message from @SashaGrace re: SD Card so I've started the process of downloading the maps.....will put together a How-To for doing this process. Thanks Max

Think there was a heat shield or a fuel pipe that used to be an issue for rattling on the bulkhead.

Just ordered one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-Volkswagen-DataPlug-for-app-usage-on-smartphone-VW-Data-Plug/264747012721?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Note, only 4 left. Tom

Id be curious has to how many members have had water leaks. Yes its difficult to get a real picture as not everyone who has purchased a Koroq is in this forum.

Well as a rule of thumb I generally never believe a word the dealers say to me

This happens to other models with lot of HP but due to the tax policy of some countries the brands claim a little bit lower so there is no problem with the tax scale. On dynamometer it's not unusual a difference of 4% between the same car models (stock, same year). Many times on ''Dyno days' same models (stock) have a difference in HP between them and the owners tease each other. In Greece the Felicia (stock) on Dynojet 248-E shown: 65,8 Hp/5500 Rpm and 10,25 Kgm/3950 Rpm

I have a theory about the flashing... Modern headlights that instead of turning the high beam of, redirects it to where it's best suited keeps a high light output. Some people can't help them self from being drawn to look straight into the light of oncoming traffic, I myself sometimes do that when I'm a little bit tired. Old style headlights doesn't blind when on half beam and you look at them from a distance, new smart headlights do blind when looking straight into them even if they are adjusted correctly. This is just a theory based on my own experience of oncoming traffic during the "dark months". I also sometimes get flashed when my car uses the adaptive function, they are adjusted correctly and the contrast between where the headlight focuses and the "darkened" area is so pronounced that you by eyesight can see that it doesn't "hit" oncoming traffic in the eyes - but looking straight into them surely will blind for a few seconds.

I did this and found it! Then, I dropped it again and had to repeat. It was a nightmare. Thanks guys

Sorry, some of us (like moi) do tend to digress. Looks very .

Just wrapped the car to make it looks a little special: the small corner on rear door (IDK how to call it), and the buttom parts of all the doors (under the original black trim) . The blacked corner makes the rear window and door looks longer than before. It gives the car a kind of 4 door couple proportion. But on the other hand, it looks a bit strange, especially on a close look. I'm still not sure whether to keep it. The wrap on the buttom of doors is quite subtle, but it does make a quite nice contrast. I like it very much.

I have had exactly the same problem on mine except that it always happens in really hot weather. You can alter how far the tailgate goes up (see handbook) so I set mine to stop about an inch lower than the maximum. That solved the problem.

Thanks for the link Gaz. That's plan A confirmed so. Gonna hack it out of the bottom. 😁 Any idea where the towing eye and screwdriver are supposed to fit in the insert? There's no obvious indent for them 🤔

I would have thought a 1.5a charger would be perfect to keep the battery topped up? Obviously a 5a charger will charge it 3.333x quicker but given it's not a flat battery and you're looking to just top up, I'd try the 1.5a for a few days and see how it does.

Well I now have a full size spare wheel, but I'm not very happy with how much its raised the center of the boot floor. I'll have to revisit when the weather is better, at least I have it for now. Ordered the RS specific kit direct from my main dealer - item number 5E0 093 860C Kit came with wheel brave, Jack & Jack handle, strap and nut for securing the wheel. Picked up a spare Gemini alloy off a fellow VRS owner last night. Standard kit into full size wheel won't go So out came the Stanley blade and hacked off loads of the sticky out bits Insert now fits into the wheel, though it's quite proud which I didn't realise would have such an impact on the boot floor On to fitting, removed the existing floor piece Wheel in and bolted down Tool kit repopulated and strapped in. Couldn't see a neat way to fit the screwdriver or towing eye - anyone tell me what I'm missing? So now floor is raised considerably (impossible to show in a photo). Weather is crap so it'll stay as its for now, but when it's a bit drier I think I'll take it out again and cut a bit out of the base of the kit holder so it sits lower in the wheel 🤔 And yes, I realise the kit is sitting backwards 😂 Though I don't see it really matters much.

Some more practical additions this week, sourced through my local dealer. Worked out cheaper than buying online when postage was taken into account. So genuine boot mat, netting set and jack kit ticked off the list. Hopefully picking up a spare wheel this evening so the gunk can be dumped.

So keyless entry eats batteries and allows thieves to quietly walk off with your car.... Shame they don't have an option on all specs to not have keyless entry

Another small change - Team Heko wind deflectors arrived and fitted 😊

I've placed an order for a reversing camera, so I'm now thinking of investing in an OBDEleven Ultimate pack to help with coding it to work, and also possible future tweaks and diagnostics. With that in mind I thought it would be a good idea to get on to the previous owner of the car to get a list of what coding he's already done. He was only too happy to oblige so I now know that he carried out the following; Auto Start/Stop disabled Headlight washers disabled Oil temperature on Maxidot activated Lap timer on Maxidot activated Rear hazard lights illuminating when boot open Skoda logo on stereo start up screen replaced with VRS logo Rear numberplate led lights coded Front led fog lights coded CH/LH lights function on Static cornering lights on Traffic sign recognition off Throttle pedal response changed from Standard to Responsive I need to investigate further to see if the sound aktor is disabled or just broken (i think these cars all came with them?) Also need to check rear fogs as both work and I was under the impression that from factory only 1 worked? In other news my new Bosch front wiper blades arrived today. In over 25 years of motoring these have to be the easiest ever to change! Packaging was another Amazon fail 😂