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You really need to forget about mileage, it's a VERY poor indicator of the future reliability of a car, it's important to the motor trade because it allows them to inflate their prices dramatically and therefore make a larger profit. If you see a rep-mobile that's done 150k in 5 years but has been main dealer serviced bang on schedule versus the same car that's covered 50k in 5 years but has no recent service history then the 150k car will be a better buy, half the price and twice as reliable. In order to clock up a high mileage you need to drive a very long way which means motorways, 70 mph in top gear is the easiest life a car can live. Who cares about mileage? The trader tugging at your waistband, that's who.

Having had 4 Skodas over the last 20 years I thought the new Octavia would be yet another excellent car. How wrong I was! There are so many annoying things surrounding the use of the new infocenter and with the car software that doesn't work correctly as mentioned in other posts. I can't see Skoda sorting these things out anytime soon, if at all, and the frustrated feelings every time I get in the car I can no longer live with. Despite the huge financial cost I'm off! Skoda you've let us down and you're losing loyalty.

The tyre jack is designed by the manufacturer to safely jack the car, what's your issue with using one as the manufacturer intended? It's perfectly safe whether the foot of the jack is sitting on the ground or on a block of wood or on a concrete slab or any other incompressible substrate.

A bit of rust won't hurt them. I would simply clean off the rust and use a bit of black paint on them.

Guys, I've just had a "really great idea". Lets have a "new form of motorsport" that combines the worst features of Formula E, rallycross and stage rallying in a single championship.

We have a S II from 2014 and I change from summer 18" to winter 16" regularly. The 18" ride comfort is harder but not too bad. The 16" is definitely smoother as you have more rubber to help the suspension. The S II weighs 1600 kg. Its fully loaded weight with passengers and luggage is permitted to be around 2200 kg. I would probably keep the 18" wheels untill the current tyres are worn down, unless the tyres are very old going by the DOT number on them as your car has only done 24000 miles. Winter tyres in the summer are a little worse compared to pure summer tyres, but defintely help in on slippery roads even if London does not see much snow. The S II is o.k. with 205/55-16 tyres and the manual states an ET 45. I had bought a set of Skoda 16" alloys and hated the look - the wheels were sitting about 2 cm within the body and it looked as if the wheels were just far too small. I then sold these and bought a set of VW alloys with an ET 37 - Road America - which makes the 16" look as flush as your current 18" wheels.

Here you go. Got a good Android upgrade head unit from off AliExpress. Skoda features working also , and the sound is Brilliant - better than original and high end brands which I have also had in the past.

Lucy Verasamy said on tonights weather that snow at this time was rare but not unheard of. Well she obviously does not remember how common Lambing Snow is for Scotland & that is usually around early April.

Checking in with my Third Skoda, Upgraded from a mk2 Fabia to a MK3 Facelift, SE Technology last week, loving it so far, although admittedly a tad lower spec than some of the shots in here!

So in a nut shell, younger lower mileage cars are more expensive to run but on the other side of things, an older car could be more expensive in replacing many parts that have worn with age as I have been doing with my current vehicle That story is very similar to mine. My 05 Polo 1.9TDi has been a bit of a 'lemon' you might say and I've spent a fair pretty penny on fixing many things and I'm at the stage where I feel it's a money pit and am considering replacing it. But it sounds from your story that I may be better off trying to weather the storm of problems until their isn't anything else to replace because I still like the car

This is quite a conundrum!! As lads have said condition is king and a full looking at by someone who knows their stuff is paramount A lad I know had a 04 Golf 1.9 PD which was of the age where everything was wearing out and he spent a fortune fixing her up - he then got rid of it saying "It's a money pit and I've spent a fortune" "That car is cursed" and so on ! But my brother bought that very car and it gave good reliable transport for 6 years and apart from normal service items and tyres she never needed a cent spent on her. The original owner had inadvertently fixed all the suspension and brakes thinking that the car was on her last legs !! Moral of the story - condition is king !

Nope... You need to replace the buttons for a set with a phone button I think it might also be able to replace the resistors on the PCB but I don't recall the details.

Passenger side to do next. The only thing that i would like to add is some kind of end of travel detection. But having working windows after not being able to open a window for 3 months is amazing.

There is a very good plus side to all seasons vs a set of pure winters plus a set of summers, you don’t change them over too early like I’ve done! For both cars! We are slightly up and slightly left of the red dot in the cross.

Been there done that Ln the mk2. If you call skoda, because they are captive, they will sell you a new airbox, instead. However, I do have the identical part for a Phillips head screw. Or you get something similar as a self tapper and cut down. But it is hard to match such a coarse thread.

I've had set of Michelin CrossClimate+ in 225/50x17 on the Yeti for c. 1 year and 8,000 miles to date. They've been great in all conditions and especially on streaming wet roads with standing water. Braking on snow and ice isn't quite up to the standard of the Dunlop D5 Winter Sport on my wife's Karoq but as a compromise all season tyre, they're very impressive. They're also showing remarkably little wear considering how often I deploy all of the power and torque of my remapped car.

Was looking through the new Octavia brochure dated 1st April 2021 and it appears all season tyres are now in options list for £180 (not on first edition specs) Haven’t yet checked other models https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/43543ebe-b876-4be5-9692-5aa8d68b302b

Heres a short, true story. My next door neighbours son left to work as a doctor in Australia. He parked his 3 or 4 year old Toyota Auris (not a hybrid) in his parents garage and left for the promised land. 18 months later, my next door neighbour came round and asked for my help starting said car as her son was visiting on holiday and wanted to sell the car. So armed with multimeter in hand, opened the bonnet and measured the battery at 0.01 volts. Zero point zero one volts ....mmm, pretty knackered I remarked, but not unexpected as no-one had thought to disconnect the battery. Probably will need a new battery I said, but I'll try recharging it but highly unlikely to recover it... Removed battery to my garage, connected my charger (which is a variable lab power supply) set volts to 14.8 volts, current flowing showing as between 0 and 1 mA, hmmm not good. Left it to have a cup of tea, came back thinking of handing it back and the current had risen to 7 to 8 mA. So I thought I'll leave it connected to see what happens. Half an hour its risen almost 100mA, rising a few mA every minute. 3 hours later its at 900mA and rising. Left overnight, and its charging at max (2.2A limit on the power supply) and the voltage is now due to current limiting now at 14.1v or so, but slowly rising. Neighbour asks me how its going, I said we'll pop it back on and see, but I doubt it'll turn the engine over. Put it back in the Toyota, turn the ignition on, it starts first turn! Wow, not even a struggle, Toyota engine immediately purring smoothly after being stood for 18 months, unbelievable! Next task, try to move car with rear parking brake discs left on for 18 months and stuck on, lots of revs and eventually bang, and away we go. Checked lots of restarts to check it wasn't a freak start. Son came over, drove it around for two weeks, then sold it to first buyer to view. The battery was a Yuasa EFB battery, small about 40Ah IIRC. Made in UK. Impressed.

yes plenty good enough to lift the vehicle far more safely than any tyre jack When it comes to placing under the sill, you could then use a small block of wood on the jack to avoid the metal contact of the jack "pad", this will also aid as it will increase the lifting height a little to get your axle stands under the console bushes, only then go under the vehicle to do what you need to do.

yes

No the kangaroo effect is VAG wide 1.5 TSI and my friend’s Mk IV 1.5 SE Octavia has noted this issue as have other owners of this model. The DAG is good, slight lag sometimes if not in sport mode. Maps or tuning boxes can be used for extra zip.

Possible Causes Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Timing misaligned I would have this looked at, as I remember the advert said it had a recent timing belt done? Part number is correct, but always worth checking it with TPS as they can get you a guide price.

Skoda UK talk about 10,000 mile intervals, but the Manufacturer works in 15,000 km intervals which on the car's service indicators works out at 9400 or 9300 miles depending on model, I've see both after reset. The point being 10,000-9400=600 mile difference minimum. Where the warranty quoted earlier allowed only 500 miles. So which is used for warranty purposes? And some people would be better off on variable 18,600/2 year intervals to stop breaching that condition.

If that 500 mile rule applies, then I should be ok, assuming I can get it serviced in the next 2 weeks. It came with one year Skoda used car warranty as I purchased it from a Skoda dealer. I then took out VW finance which upon the payment of £79 gave an additional years warranty, and two years servicing, though I expect that just applies to the oil/inspection part of the service.

Then the emissions had to be within tolerance during the MOT and NO engine management light on the dash otherwise it would have failed.

It very much depends on the particular warranty that the car has and when it was put in place, you need to refer to the t&c of the particular cover that was applied. There are many variants, manufacturer warranty, dealer warranty, approved used warranty, extended warranty, maybe even aftermarket warranty. The skoda warranties get t&cs updated every few months so you need to dig out original t&cs I have just taken out an extended warranty (all component cover through skoda financial services) and on reading its specific t&cs it appears to have some ambitious get out clauses which I have highlighted below. Not sure if that is entirely legal, how can a late oil change void all the warranty, e.g. sure if my engine blows up but what if my wiper motor stopped working? Since I took it out a fortnight ago, the t&cs have been revised yet again for policies taken out after April 1. The other issue is that you can choose between fixed and variable interval services, can be 2yr/20,000 mile, 2yr/18600 miles, 1yr/10000 miles, 1yr/9400 miles......which is the manufacturer's service schedule they have in mind?

Hmm. Difficult. I guess their attitude and approach will change on 12 April. But really, stand back 2 metres, outside open air, face coverings on?, surely the car could've been started. Rules are the rules though. Or their interpretation of what they are allowed to do..

My previous car was a 2011 Octavia VRS TSI FL and it was brilliant. I had a new tensioner and chains fitted at 50k miles, just as a preventative measure, as I heard they can go bang with the old tensioner problem. Cost for the tensioner and chains fitted was around £650, so budget that in if you buy the car. As for oil use, it was not over using oil at all. Around half a ltr every 1k miles. Traded it in on 104k miles for the car I have now.

Ha ha. Covid rules? No engine start. Bit strange! Sounds like an avoid. I listed my estate on here for a few weeks a while back, a few interested parties then at the end, a person in your indicated neck of the woods is now desperate to buy it as he has a new baby and a TT.... Problem is I can't find a car I want to replace with the right spec and a decent price. Almost zero private ads in the cars I'm looking at doesn't help at the moment! But to cut to the chase, on a FL mk2 vRS with the gen 2 EA888, it is worthwhile finding a good one, and you being as confident as you can it has been looked after and the vendor is honest. It is never a cast iron guarantee but helps..... a lot to minimise the risks..

Thanks for the reply. I went to view the car and they wouldn't even let me turn it on! Covid rules apparently 😳 I've left it for now as I said to the dealer in not buying a used car I can't drive first. On the hunt for another one now.

Short answer is Yes! Longer answer .... Yes! You could risk it, it has been going for 95k miles is some peoples logic. Not mine having seen those old tensioners! The 1.8 gen 2 seems to me to be far more widespread affected by the oil usage from what I see one here but they are very closely related. Time and distance (Not long life regime) regular oil changes helps prevent the clogging of the scraper rings which is the start of the slippery slope. I've had my 2011 for 5 years, it has been very reliable other than the usual maintenance items and a few little extras here and there. They are a complex engine to work on if it needs anything doing other than ancillaries though!

The engine is smooth quick quiet and reliable. I don't recall any major issues with the latest TSI from around 2015 onwards. I have been a front seat passenger in a MkIII 1.4 and MkIV 1.5 TSI 150 BHP Octavia. Their engines are very good. The MkIV 1.5 engine still has a kangaroo-type effect initially when cold. However obviously they don't give you quite the same shove in the back as the older 2.0 TSI 220 or 280/272 BHP Super. Economy for 2.0 TSI on an A road fairly free flowing 10 mile commute, is mid to late 30 Mpg up to 40+ mpg on motorways keeping up with the flow. The Superb has more sound deadening and is definitely a quieter drive than the Octavia. There is some wind noise from the door mirrors. Seat pads are wider than the Octavia, or at least the VRS models I had. The Sportline's seats seem to have more pronounced side bolsters than the SE & L&K versions. The space and tech levels are good on models from SE spec level. You will have to drive one to see for yourself.

That can happen if the system is not tight. Although the bleeding might be/look perfect, after the bleeding tools are removed the air seeps in.

I've had a small size Disklok on my BMW 5 series which is now transferred to the VRS 230. It is indeed, a very good visual deterrent.

I agree. I suggest to disconnect exhaust in the middle section and then listen if that does help if no, then there is no point to pay 750.

Generally when driving you wont notice a passive regeneration. You will only know it is doing an active one if the car idles at 1000rpm for any length of time. You may also smell a hot burnt rubber smell aswell.

From the window seat of a 747 out of Las Vegas to Heathrow, over Northern Ireland.

I can't really, it is somewhat illogical I know. I like the Fabia because you don't see many of them about but at the moment I just have a Fiesta ST itch that needs to be scratched.

Is it boiling or is it bubbling because it’s pressurising?

I've driven the VRS a few times in the past few weeks and I'm not really feeling the love for it. I now have a Focus ST3 diesel estate for daily duties and it is a much nicer place to be and certainly far more comfortable, but not really any slower in the real world and returns around 50mpg. Yes, the VRS is certainly more nimble and really flies in kickdown (albeit it is a bit 'shouty' when doing that) and I can't help but think that maybe I have outgrown it now (I am 57!). So I've started looking for one of the last of the 1.6 Fiesta ST3s in blue to replace it with. So maybe I haven't grown up that much!

I have found the issue. I had retrofitted usb sockets for the rear passengers. I used an addin fuse to power these. That addin fuse was very close to fuse 18 for the rear camera. When I disconnect my retrofit, the camera's static was allot less. I have now decided to build a T loom for the cigarette socket. That way my retrofit stays away from the fuse box. Thank you all for the advice and the schematic. :)

Normal RH thread (wind back clockwise), Should not need any adjustment to handbrake but easy to do if it needs it.

If you try and lift the airbag by sliding something under the rim, will potentially leave marks on the dashboard around it, but that is slightly easier to move it that way. Once it is up about 5mm it sort of un-wedges and comes out easily. You can also push it up from underneath, and even sort of lever it upwards with a big screwdriver or flat side of large wood chisel. You need to lever it from the back edge of the lower glovebox. Or use a combination of both methods to initially wriggle it loose

Some engines got it for MY18, some for MY19. So the 4x4 models for MY18 were still DQ250 and they got the DQ381 for MY19.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=133257

I’m sorry but I think you are missing the point . We are talking about a £30 header tank that if fails causes between £600 and over £1000 of damages) also dealers do no mention it however the moment Ive questioned them And asked ‘ could this be because of the silica bag I’m told yes”. the last dealer told me it takes a long time to flush as they need to follow a service bulletin for the issue. Then I’ve now found out the header tank as had several revisions and the new design doesn’t have silica bag.! 🤔 so if no major issue, why issue a change or service bulletin regarding a fix . personally I’ve worked in the spare parts business for over 20 years so I understand why companies issue changes . If this issues only effects a small number of cars(maybe before ur design type) then again why not cover repair bill . lastly I’ve not mentioned “every other car will have issues. “ I’ve just tried to inform other Skoda users of the issues I’ve had . Secondly , if it wasn’t for people on forums talking about the issues they have, nothing ever gets sorted .

Can You please let me know if the prcedure enables traffic jam assist as well? I mean, below 60 km/h (with ACC active), the lane assist remains active?

Definitely the easiest job, but needs to be done with care. Get yourself some rubber surgical gloves b4 starting and plenty of paper towelling to mop up the G13. You will also need a 1l bottle of G13. The following process below is what I did on my VRS to fix the Silica problem (it had a double skinned tank). Check out this video showing the process on a VW Golf (identical under the bonnet): 1) Get a cheap fluid pump....I got one from my local general store for £8. On a cold engine, suck out all of the coolant from the header tank into a secure container (to be disposed of later) 2) Unclip the top hose and bottom hose. Try to catch as much coolant as possible. Leave as much coolant in the pipework as possible. 3) Remove the electrical connector (pull tab out and pull out connector). 4) Unhook the bottom clip where the tank sits. 5) Refit in new tank without the Silica bag 6) Put on the bottom hose (feed) 7) Put on the top hose (return) 8) Put on the electrical connector 9) Fill up the new tank with G13 mix or G12evo to maximum level. 10) Start up car - leave top off for the moment (this will become apparent in a sec) 11) As car starts to warm up, you will find there maybe an airlock at the top of the 'feed' (larger) hose going to the engine (noted if the coolant in the tank doesn't get warm). Gently Squeeze the pipe and tease out the air - there will probably be a large 'bloop' and the level will drop considerably. 12) Put the tank cap back on and let the car get up to temperature. 13) Wait until cooling fans come on and then off....then switch off the engine & let the car cool down. DO NOT TOUCH THE HEADER TANK - HOT COOLANT ALERT!!! 14) Next day, Before you head off, check the level in the header tank again - release the pressure in the tank by opening the cap up. Make sure the coolant level is correct. Be happy you have many 1000's of trouble free motoring in front of you.....enjoy.