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I can only recall seeing one member on here with a 1.4TSI having reported a water pump failure - there is no comparison with the water pump failure rate on the 2.0, and since the water pump is on the opposite end of the engine replacing it is a much simpler/cheaper/quicker job. I'm all for preventative maintenance (which is why I had the cambelt on our 1.4TSI replaced last year when it was 5 years old) but since the failure rate of water pumps on the 1.4TSI is so low the expense of preventative replacement seems out of proportion to the risks to me.

Took a first trip to the track with updated ECU and updated swaybars, the way the car now moves after stage 1 and sway bars is amazing. With better brake fluid (the OEM Dot 4 fluid is garbage) and upgraded rear brakes it will manage consistent quick driving alot better. Already felt a big difference in front brakes going from OEM to proper Brembo discs and pads. Might even get the brake lines upgraded. If my shocks ever start failing will definetly also switch to Bilstein DCC ones. Only did one 20 minute session today because I had my puppy with me (kept the Variocage in the car when I went for a session and it stayed in its spot perfectly!) so did not time it but on the straights Porsche 718's werent really able to keep up with me. Had a good friend drive on the passenger seat and said that the car now definetly is in the same league as a Leon Cupra in terms of handling and most likely quicker on straights. The specific Leon Cupra has RS3 and Golf GTI brakes, armored brake hoses etc so braking is still a weak spot compared to the Leon. Super satisfied with the 280, I can fit my fat-ass frame at 6'6, put in my big landseer puppy in the back, have her be comfortably in the safety cage while driving spiritedly on the A & B roads too. No pics of the car from yesterday but here's a puppy to cheer up the day

It just gets worse, doesn't it ????? ... more and more people discover inherent faults that require money spending on them .. the problem is ... who foots the bill ??? Reliability issues, cynical Dealer responses, bad support and spares problems...... I wonder ... should I have bought the car 2 weeks ago ? Regards, XVolvo ( hopefully not to become XSkoda shortly !!!!)

Yes - found a tacho with maxidot and replaced the original one. Yes - and still got plans in mind.

Quite simply its all about risk (for the insurance company) You havent given full details but heres a list of some of the things they take into account Fabia VRS 1.4 DSG insurance is especially high group 27 (our new high spec Superb is group 19, our fabia 2 1.2htp is group 2) Any modifications or extras Your age How long you've had a full licence Where you live (to do with insurance claims associated with the surrounding area) Your occupation Your credit rating Any accidents, claims or convictions in last six years Where the car is stored Use of car (social and domestic, commuting, business use) Annual mileage Age of all named drivers, their occupations, where they live, their other cars/policies, any claims or covictions in last six years. (They may have protected NCD so had accidents) If your nan/auntie dont live with you, adding one or both may actually increase the premium, ask the companies.. Likewise if they are too old. Plus more....including other (non car) insurance history of all named If you have never had car insurance in your name you are starting at 0% no claim bonus. Shop around directly with insurers as well as comparison sites, ask their advice. Best advice I can give you is sell the vrs, buy a low group insurance car and build up some no claims before trading up. 1 year no claims gives 30% or more discount. Insurance companies regard young newly qualified drivers as high risk, not just their opinion, butnhard statistics calculated by crunching insurance claim records for your particular demographic.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I've just encountered this issue. Warning on maxi dot telling me to replace fob battery. Bought a brand new pack of 4x2025 duracells from my local tescos for £8. Opened fob, took old battery out, put brand new duracell battery in, closed fob up. Nothing. Took that one out, put old one back in. Working. Weird I thought, let me try another new battery from the same pack of 4. Next new one in, nothing, same issue. Tldr: The problem was a sticker on the back of the physical battery warning people not to swallow or let children play with it. Took sticker off and hey presto, working battery. Just thought I'd save someone the hassle of thinking they've bought dud duracell batteries. Bit of a silly thing to do though put a sticker on the back of the battery. I'm all for putting warnings on packaging etc but not the actual battery itself. Bit of a daft thing to do in my opinion.

Have you thought about removing your lead soled boots before getting in the car?

More details, HUD demo and real range according to screen while 100% charged.

Fair to say that it is definitely important to have your haldex pump taken out and cleaned when you changing haldex oil...this is mine after 18k and it is the second change already👀

The Calm before tomorrows snow. EDIT. The snow never came to much, but the temp did drop to a nice minus 4.

Well this wasn’t as bad a job as I was expecting. 👍 The issue started to become apparent a few weeks before total failure, with the drivers window switch intermittently failing. Over the next two weeks the failure progressively became more frequent, finally giving up the ghosts entirely. Diagnosing the problem started with me testing the others window switches with both front and rear near side working but neither front nor rear offside working. The other issues that came up were that the off side doors wouldn’t lock (however the fuel cap did), the mirror adjusting switch also didn’t work and there were no lights to any of the drivers door switches. After a bit of Googling I found myself inspecting the door harness between the hinges. After peeling the rubber sleeving back I could see that a number of the cables had broken. I ordered a repair kit from eBay and got to work when it arrived. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Left-Right-Door-Cable-Wiring-Harness-Loom-Plug-For-SKODA-ROOMSTER-SUPERB-YETI/333814539014?hash=item4db8e5a306:g:RVkAAOSwnRpfyz47 I decided to replace as much of the harness as the kit provided as, in my opinion, trying to fix the issue in the hinge would only lead to failure again as the existing cable was very brittle compared to the new stuff in the repair kit. I cut what remained attached to the harness connector, removed the door card and pulled the harness through the door. I trimmed the cables back to the outer skin of the door and used these brilliant soldering joints to attach the new tails on. (My soldering has never been as good as I would like and these things are so easy to use.) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281x-Waterproof-Solder-Seal-Heat-Shrink-Wire-Cable-Connectors-Crimps-Butt-Joint/393138233400?hash=item5b88dd6038:g:dmkAAOSwdPxgLf-Y After extending the harness, re-taping and pushing back through the door and protective hinge cover and that remained was to hook up to the new connection block. Abracadabra, everything was working again. The job took around two hours to complete and is easily done with a few basic tools. TIP To remove the rubber sleeve between the door. Pull the harness cables through the door, then push the sleeve into to door and then pull it out. I think trying to pry it out will lead to damaging the sleeve.

So had my JB4 installed on Thursday. Been using map 1 until today. Today i had engine oil done also dsg & haldex oil changed. Then i refuelled with higher octane fuel and switched to map 2.... OMG.... I thought with Map 1 there was difference but Map 2 just feels crazy...in the best possible way.... It pulls really hard and gearbox seems to be shifting bit later too when pushing it... Obviously i won't be using it full stop. Map 1 will be always on though... Just waiting for exhaust system from Germany and then i will be happy man😁

The sill on these has a vertical bit of metal coming down you're right, that the jack in the boot has a slot for but the axle stand does not. If you bought the halfords ones suggested in your other post I believe there was rubber pucks you could buy on ebay that had that cut out in them, might be wirth investing in those. You could also put a piece of wood or something else solid undernteath the trolley jack before you start lifting in order to increase the height it can go to, this might give you the extra bit that you need to place in the locations suggested above, please make sure thought that this is absolutely stable both before and during the lift as well as while any weight is being supported as there is inherintly more risk of slippage with this approach if not careful as you're adding another object into the equation. I only mention that as I had a similar problem to you and that was how I overcame it. Don't try this without someone else backing me up, I could have been accidentally making rookie mistakes that were more dangerous than I realised at the time.

Car Wow included these comments: The new Sportline is also offered with a 190hp 2.0-litre petrol engine that isn’t available on lower-spec models all-wheel-drive and a seven-speed automatic DSG gearbox can be paired with the top engine offerings. I have this engine in my Mark 3 SEL estate. Since it's 4x4 it is slightly quicker than a FWD VRS to 60mph.

thought they looked better than older se,s

I almost went for Seat Arona 1.0 TGI when I was looking for different cars. Eventually I got to my senses and bought a 4WD Yeti. Seat would have been almost new and twice the price of (2010) Yeti, CNG/petrol powered but no 4WD option. There was a sweet FR trim one for sale back then and it was tempting

Maybe heed your own advice then. And for your other problem, try camomile tea, it always lifts me when I'm having a wee temper tantrum.

J.R your right. I should have phrased my reply differently and expressed an opinion and not advice. I personally would only buy OEM or a major brand having spent too many years working for a large German multinational sourcing, amongst other products, belts.

Come on, you're over reacting dramatically, he wasn't rude to you at all.

Being new to the Board, I don't know if there is / are moderator(s) for the Board and if so perhaps they might like to comment / advise / be involved, as to a possible approach to Skoda UK to voice both their / our potential and actual problems, being reported on a range of common issues, as being experienced by their Board's users and their (Skoda ) clients..... , not doing anything, isn't good. Such avenues might be Trading Standards, Motor Manufacturers Organisations ... sneaking onto VW and Seat Boards, if they exist !! ... to see if similar problems exist. Remember, we've seen some pretty outrageous actions by the VW group in recent months. In only just 7 days, some 7 or 8 people have reported these mechanical / electrical problems, not to mention probably more who are just innocent bystanders and watching and wondering ..... action now in the right quarters...i.e. if people feel that strongly, will be better than individually trying to get Skoda to face their responsibilities to their clients, all scattered about the UK. I look forward to any comments. Regards .. XVolvo.

Hi, to set the height of the fog lamps on the 2018 on facelift models there is a hole below the fog lights which has been given an angled slant. On my car, which is the facelift version, you can insert a TX40 driver into the hole, which, if you get the angle right will engage with the adjuster socket allowing you to move the lamp aim up or down without removing the plastic cover. I appreciate you would have to do this blind but if you follow the angle correctly it should engage OK. I was changing the bulbs when I discovered this and so was able to adjust the lamps before I refitted the covers. When I adjusted the fogs on my previous car (2015 Octavia estate 1.4 TSi) I think the plastic fronts that surround the lamp have to be removed and the adjuster is then visible. If I remember correctly, on this model there is a hole in the surround, but this is to insert the wire pull device that sits in the spare wheel kit, or the kit without the spare, which allows you to pull off the surrounds and is not for adjustment of the light. Page 234 of the manual helps but I guess you already know how to remove the covers. Hope that is of use. BTW, already done the indicators and your right, look great.

My Vrs Tdi wagon is just on 5 years old and has done 39k, it's going in on Thursday for Cambelt, tensioners and Waterpump £600 all in at my local main dealer. Two local independent garages quoted about £50 less so for the peace of mind Skoda it is. Think its advisable to stick to the 5 year change regardless of mileage.

Stick the main charging cable under the boot floor so you can't get to it when the boot is full. Put the ice scrapper in the boot door rather than the first door you would open, the drivers door. Simply clever! That aside the Enyak is on my list of possible next cars. As a high miler I'm sure it is going to be an intertesting change/adaptation. The fast charger and the the heat pump would be on my list even if the sales blurb is so understated. What I don't get is why it has taken so long for any of the manufactures to adopt it? Pretty much all cars have 90% of the kit needed in the form of the AC system which is relativley simple to adapt to heating and cooling.

How strange, I have also had similar issues with 2018 SEL DSG. The car was serviced and passed MOT by Mitchell Skoda Chester in February 2021. It was out of warranty in March 2021. The following issues occurred; Airbag Warning Light Central Locking Issues - same as author - was having issues getting into drivers door and had to open from inside. Took vehicle in and was advised that a part is required for airbag. In addition, a new steering wheel needs replacing as the horn and controls were not working. Also found issues with drivers side lock which needed replacing. In addition, they stated that the stop/start ignition button needed replacing! I was initially quoted £800 to replace parts in which x2 parts needed to be ordered outside of the UK, however, they stated as ‘gesture of goodwill’ this will be offered for £250! They have stated that they need to keep hold of the vehicle as cannot be returned until the above has been repaired, and are offering loan vehicle. Very disappointed that these issues have occurred with a vehicle only 3-years old and I was expecting better reliability from Skoda. I am unsure what the total costs will be including labour but will update this forum. Looks like there is a trend with 2018 DSG Karoqs!

that's interesting because there is an se tech superb on a 20 plate with 9k mileage for £20,900 its in rrg skoda bolton, its alot more than i want to pay but atleast its got 2 years warranty left, rather than 3 months warranty which is what the 17 plate i was going to see this week, its all about peace of mind with me3 months warranty is crap really, but that bolton car has leather seats and look light some kind of upgraded lights have a look for me and let me know what you think? i might be able to get it for £19,800.

I wouldn't even guarantee it blowing Baltic if you set the demand temperature to "lo". It should blow below ambient ( value from trip computer) though.

Quartz grey basking in the sun

@tbonez - Any fault codes? If you've got refrigerant, a working ventilator fan and a reasonably new pollen filter it should work.

Shaw, I've read on the Kodiaq sites someone uses the note s20 with zero problems.

I haven't come across a flat battery causing airbag faults before. Our 12 Fabia has gone flat several times during lockdown without throwing a code. That's not to say it can't happen, but it's unlikely. I think you need to find a VAG compatible diagnostic tool to read the code from the controller before going any further. There's a thread in the diagnostics section here with a list of people with suitable scan tools willing to help out other members. You may find someone near you willing to scan your car. Otherwise there's probably an indy near you who will do it for a lot less than the dealer would charge.

It just means the battery has been taken off, the code can be cleared.

Pretty sure trabolgan will have a MK60EC1 fitted in a 2011 car whereas that thread is about the older MK60 ABS module Have you checked the battery is in good condition? Failing batteries can cause lots of strange issues. Load testing a wire is pretty simple, there are a few videos on youtube. Looking at my notes when I retrofitted a MK60EC1: - pin 1 goes to fuse 25 E-box (40A) - pin 8 goes A38 (Positive connection -2- (15a), in dash panel wiring harness which is probably cabin fuse 2 mentioned by Wino) - pin 32 goes to fuse 4 E-box (20A) - pin 47 goes to earth

We just moved our record player into the living room. Along with the Pioneer stereo system. We just weren't using it in the other room. It's been nice to have it in there and looks pretty good on an Ikea Kallax shelf as the records fit perfectly inside the squares. Sounds much better in a bigger room too. We've also ditched out cheapo soundbar (now in the bedroom) and have the TV hooked up to the stereo instead. Thankfully Logitech had the stereo in their database so I was able to add it to the Harmony remote. So one click on the remote and the stereo comes on with the TV and switches to the correct input etc.

I've driven automatics for years, even when people considered me eccentric to do so, but the DSG box is brilliant, best one I've owned....it's a pity about the tailgate and leaky panoramic roof though.

Sharing two pics of the beige interior (alcantara) on my IV, very happy to have choosen the beige interior

sounds weird but the number plate across the grill breaks it up enough that it doesnt look as offensively massive. and if you cover the section below the plate with a finger, the lines on the top half are quite nice. first time a number plate has improved the look of a car!

unless ignition off and door open you can press and it will move by one press not a long press

Agreed on a 2.0TSI but on the 1.4 & 1.5 TSI the water pump is on the other end of the engine and not driven by the cambelt.

I don't have a Samsung mobile, but if it's any help my wife's Iphone 8+ fits in, even with an Otterbox cover (I've still got a paupers Iphone 7) The 8+ is 78 x 157 without the cover. Hope this helps a bit.

Believe it or not this is my replacement carpet 😂 It was local and cheap and better then the original in my car.

Swapped out the handbrake cable guides for a good used set. Luckily the cables looked to have been replaced fairly recently so pulled out no problems. In a earlier photo I posed a pic showing the the rib on the guides infront of the support bracket inside the car. This was not correct. (I think photo was from a golf). After checking a photo that deanvrs posted I could see the rib sits behind the support, as per my second photo.

Just joined the forum as after a lot of looking at the options, I've gone for an Enyaq 80 (Ecosuite trim in slate grey, 150kw charging, heat pump, towbar and quite a few of the packs) for a salary sacrifice car. Headline price was £763 for 3 years 10k miles and no deposit, but the tax perk brings it down to £420. This was replacing the "big family car" so the size was exactly what I was looking for, it will be replacing a C4 Grand Picasso. Useage is a real mix from commuting 20 mile round trip to multiple longer trips (I have a family that loves theme parks and castles...) at weekends Was a bit worried about going EV, as home charging will be a challenge - no offroad space at the front, so if I put one in it will need to go through the house (maybe up and through in the loft) and down a 15 metre garden - but my work has installed 40 podpoint chargers and the infrastructure around here is slowly getting better too. So I am awaiting a couple of quotes for installation and will do a cost/benefit tradeoff as to whether it is cheaper to pay upfront for the home charger or to charge away from home.... I'm now in the limbo of waiting for the delivery date!

Worth looking at this:- robs12 Finding my Feet Members 22 1 77 posts Posted 23 March (edited) When the engine was introduced, VW made lots of noise about the belt lasting for the life of the engine - it did not have a replacement interval and the VW blurb said maintenance free - see page 13 of the VAG Service Training manual here: https://procarmanuals.com/vag-ssp-511-new-ea211-petrol-engine-family/ VW blurb here, about half way down about toothed belt: https://www.volkswagen-newsroom.com/en/the-new-golf-das-auto-international-driving-presentation-2797/the-new-golf-powertrain-structure-engines-and-gearboxes-2835 Inspection was at ~160k miles, then again every ~20K, change only if needed. But Skoda UK suggest change it every 5 years/50K miles: https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/8b70c541-726b-4996-9999-66ebc7ca520b Take your pick.... Edited 23 March by robs12

I've just experienced the same issue on my 2017 70k miles car. Pretty poor from a quality perspective imho, my previous 2.0 tdi Ford was still on it's original after 12 years and 140k. I've been very lucky that the used dealer I bought it from has been very honest. The warning light came on, on the way to get it MOT'd with them, 7 months after purchase. After a few phone calls they've pulled the diagnosics and admitted that the error had previously appeared prior to my purchase and are therefore doing it for free. Whilst obviously they should've sorted it before selling it to me, fair play to them for being honest and sorting it. Disappointed it's failed, but still love the car. Easily the comfiest and most luxurious car I've owned.

My thought is "don't" but I am probably different from everyone else in here. The engineers at VW spent many man hours calibrating the ECU and more importantly they have performed durability testing on their own calibration. No durability testing has been performed with any other calibration. So, it could be fine ... or not .... I have a VRS 220 and I think its plenty for a family car, the Octavia is not a race car just my 2 cents

If I thought they would I would’ve asked! They aren’t overly fussed about any car forums.....suppose it’s because it’s their actual job and when the pull the shutters down at night, that’s it! They are just knowledgeable, honest and nice guys and I’m very lucky to be friends with them.

Having been out of stock for the last century, I finally got to pick this up today. It has 5 x memory settings, so I can store the torque settings for my car and caravan. Easy to read display, much better than my normal wrench with its difficult to read the markings. Fairly easy to set up once you've read the instructions a couple of times. Can set it to read the actual torque you're applying at any given time, or to just keep the highest torque setting displayed you've applied. Flashes amber whilst applying torque, beeps when you're nearing your set pressure, then a solid beep and green light when that figure is reached. Shame it doesn't come with a few different sized sockets, though there is a cut our in the moulded case for me to keep a few.

Just leaving the weekend residence- - - In my dreams!!

This was an interesting article on Autocar. They were obviously bored and had a few cars lying about so did a brief test. Turns out the new M3 is wider 'mirror to mirror' than the Mercedes E63S!!! What the heck! I'm almost pleased I can't afford one now, although I wouldn't say no to one I wonder how big the next C63 will be. Apparently even though they have dumped the V8 (the misguided idiots) and have chucked the 2.0 in to it, the whole shebang will weigh considerable more than the outgoing 4.0 V8 car. The world has gone mad (I blame the ruddy battery thing) https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/features/super-saloon-shootout-bmw-m3-vs-amg-e63-and-alfa-giulia-qv

Artistic stoppers.