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Here's the verdict: ETKA is wrong, ELSA is right, the car uses the combined module. Bummer... or? Hrere's the problem: The ribbon is broken in the shape of the plastic thingy which holds it in place - not the best design here. The copper traces are spot-welded to contact pins on the plastic widget which in turn plugs into the controller (4 pins) and leads on to the airbag connector (2 pins). A new controller is both expensive as well as in need of coding, it also takes a fair bit of time for things to be delivered here in the Swedish countryside. So... ...I just cut the ribbon straight, carefully cut out the 6 traces at a length of ~5 mm, removed the insulation with a torch and some fine sandpaper and soldered the ribbon to the contact pins after first removing the spot-welded remains. After that I replaced the plastic fastener (the white vertical piece which holds the ribbon in place and offloads the welds) and for good measure added a piece of builders tape on the first few cm (not visible here) to avoid the thing breaking in the same location. Ready for closing, the lid and spool top snap in place. The horn now works again, I'll have to find a way to reset the airbag lamp but that can come later. The whole operation took about half an hour.

I doubt that the problem was caused when they changed the propshaft Guibo coupling unless you asked them to service the Haldex at the same time. The problem is as Xman points out and the guilty party will be the last person to have (made a mess of) changed the Haldex oil. It will not get better, the most that you can hope for is that it does not get any worse, mine hasn't but the noise would only be noticable to someone like me with a sympathetic mechanical ear and who had driven the car before, yours sounds terminal I'm afraid to say. Second hand diffs on ebay start at £240 delivered.

Oooh... @J.R. and others will explain but afaik its likely the wrong drain plug was removed, instead of draining the haldex, he drained the diff and presumably tried refilling the haldex, leaving the diff dry which is now completely knackered.

Its official, im now the proud owner of a Sportline with Sunroof,tech and safety pack. Im not fussed about the number plate being displayed as by tomorrow ill be putting my personalised plates back on. What an amazing vehicle it is.

Before the pandemic arrived we used to go to France a lot, we have friends who have a place that is a 5hr drive down from Cherbourg. We have run 2 Octavias during this period. The first a 15 plate with Bi-xenons and then an 18 plate with LED headlights. The 15 plate used to warn us when we arrived in France, about speed limits and adjust the headlight beam accordingly. I am convinced it adjusted the clock also. The 18 plate refuses point blank to change the time, despite the GPS setting, or change the headlight setting. I have raised this with my dealer and directly with SUK. Neither could tell me what the ‘set time by GPS’ actually meant. I have had a number of updates to the infotainment system to try and fix the issue. Obviously, testing is a problem. The last fix was attempted last year, we managed to get away in June, still no joy! On my return I complained once again. Eventually I got an answer from the manufacturers. Apparently the ‘set time by GPS’ parameter is only calculated based on Longitude!! For the clock to change you have to drive far enough East (or West I guess), then it will advance to the correct time. I have pointed out to my dealer and SUK that this is absolute nonsense, that in this day and age where satellite positioning is in almost every device and even watches and phones can calculate time and distance run and place your location on a map, to have a system in a car that sets the time based on just half of a location value is plain stupid. Of course the same argument holds true for daylight saving time. Having to tick/untick a box twice a year to make the adjustment is equally stupid. It would seem that SUK agree, as they gave me a £300 voucher to be spent on accessories, in an attempt to placate me... It still baffles me that there is a setting in the infotainment system that fails to do what it describes. More people should complain to their dealers and SUK. At the end of the day the fix must just be a coding change.

This is usually a symptom of the common broken alternator wires at the plug connectors underneath near the gearbox. The blue wire is the exciter wire that is responsible for the ignition light and correct alternator start-up. Have a look to see if any of the four wires are broken. Looks something like this....

Well done buddy. Unbelievably good stoppers!!

Hello Everybody I am new here, I would like to make a first topic in these forum new SUPEB FL 2020... I am doing coding and the adaptions in my spare time... Last week I did new SuperB and somethings were different then last on till 09 /19 ... New A5 Camera 2Q , new ACC radar... Coding is completely different for them now. I manage to code Lane Assist and Adaptive Lane Guiadance... I didn't manage to make VZE Traffic Sign as I get error on dashboard and navigation... Just to mention i made before on 200 or more cars without problems on MQB platform... If someone wants to talk about these or needs help . I am here.. Sincerely Davor Serbia

Yes, it works with the key fob

All done! Used a trim removal tool to help encourage the clusters out away from the body. Straight plug and play with the lights. have taken a video with one LED and one Halogen. There’sa BC real difference however I’m not sure it comes across that well on the video with it being dark and night time. Will try one tomorrow daytime and see if it’s more noticeable.

I bought springs, several sizes and strength and also changed the structs and there are so strong, you have to make force to close and nothing the trunk opens with the button but no goes up

For reasons, I've been travelling in one regularly recently. Nice ride and quiet with it, plus I think you could hold a dance in the back!! One query though; Is it my laptop or is "dragon green" more of a yellow?

A few photos from this evening's walk........

I use lithium grease rather than copper, but everyone is thinking much the same way.

Kinda wishing I'd ordered a sportline now! A dragon green SL was my alternate choice at the time! Yours looks great. Are the rear door lights plug and play or do they need coding?

if its hard to close, the catch is not inline with "your" vehicle.

Two options: Put it in hybrid and set the battery icon to max. It'll run the engine and recharge the battery at the expense of fuel economy. When you get to the city put it into hybrid auto or e mode to use more battery. Put it in sport for max performance and a slightly slower battery recharge to 50% then drop into hybrid auto or e mode when you get to the city In hybrid auto it'll use the battery under normal acceleration unless you floor it. At 40+ in hybrid auto it'll bring the ice in more frequently

It's all in the owners manual. Go to the 'display main menu': - for a MFSW, press and hold the right most buttons - for a wiper stalk, press and hold either end button Find 'driving data': - for a MFSW, turn the right thumbwheel up/down, then press the thumb wheel to select - for a wiper stalk, press the end up button up/down, then press the button underneath to select Find the MPG: - for a MFSW, turn the right thumbwheel up/down - for a wiper stalk, press the end up button up/down Simples Couple of snippets from the manual:

Just to actually bring an update to "today" - or yesterday, actually. I have fitted a new Kenwood KDC-BT640U to it and it sounds so much better since my old one was skipping like no-ones business. Before: After: (Yes, the CDs have changed too, but here we are) Additionally, I decided to pull out my magic T-Cut stuff. Which my Grandfather also used on his polar white Dacia Sandero Stepway and had to scrub it off really quickly! The car now looks a bit like this:

Congratulations - I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine.

Hello guys.. Hello from România. After some searching cars, I bring this beautiful lady home.. In next day, the car will pass through some changes like, crom off, new badges, 19" wheels.. Keep you posted 😊..

Description is correct, its not a cheap chinese cable, its an expensive chinese cable.

The actual cable and advertised cable have different serial numbers.

Notify both the seller and ebay if its found to be fake and demand a refund. If you bought via Paypal or credit card you also have additional buyer protections avaolable if the goods supplied are not as described.

lucky you :P i find this option quite usefull comparing to other connect features like route planning, honk&blink, lock&unlock, etc...especially in our region in hot months from june-sept

The recommended Oil is that approved or meets the specification of vw 508.00. It is 0w-20 and usually labelled Longlife IV or Longlife 4 Quantum longlife 4 is what is used in many dealers, readily available on ebay, amazon and other online stores at around £40 or less for 5 litres 11044_Quantum_LONGLIFE_IV_0W-20_Data_sheet.pdf

Fake cables usually come with cloned, non updatable software on a CD. Yours looks to have been installed. Make a backup and try updating if that isn't the latest version - I haven't checked!

@Gax I'm pretty sure such major update will not be released over the air.

Hi thanks for that, I'll give that a go later, I've been trying to start it like my other older octavia and you just flick it on the starter position and it cranks straight away, I'm glad I asked on here otherwise the dealership would have thought I was a right fool... 🤔🙈😂

Entry level under £35,000 then get the £2,500 Government Grant in the UK.

Thanks @JR RS - coincidentally I sent them an email this morning about backorder time.

As this was happening on my 2016 here in Australia, I was looking at replacing the entire gear knob but decided to look at just the DSG VRS top part of the gear knob. I ordered it from Skoda Parts, based in the Czech Republic who were great to deal with. The cost of the part as 14.52 Euro and shipping was 22.3 Euro, via Fed Ex. It took 6 days from them sending it to arriving with me so very quick. The part number for anyone who wants it is 5E0 713 146 E. I was a little concerned at how difficult it would be to remove it but I have to say, I was wrong. It took about 30 seconds to replace it. Very easy - I just used a small trim removal tool, pulled in the gear knob button to expose the top (front most) surface of the gear knob 'cap' (this is the part I am replacing), this then just flicked up and off with a little more pressure,. The replacement just hinged from the rear ward side and clipped in place. My old one had two sections where the chrome had come off and sharp (ironically this is exactly what happened on my previous R36 gear knob). So, for the total of 36 Euro, I now have a gear knob that does not scratch and cut my finger and looks far better. For anyone with this issue, and out of warranty, it's very very easy to do... Brand new one is in the bag, the other two show the chipped parts, and the box the part came in.

I find the Rieger products top notch in terms of quality, fitment & durability. I used to have a full Rieger body kit on a 2005 Astra I used to have - it was brilliant. I now have Rieger side skirts on my Superb. The fitment is on point. It uses existing mount points and holds well to the body. As @SashaGrace mentioned, they're made of high quality ABS plastic, a must for these types of components. I too am considering a front splitter, but looking at Rieger as it doesn't stick out like a snow plow, when compared to other offerings!!! Like @newbie69, I don't like protruding splitters offered by Maxton and Kopacek. Only thing is if I do get the splitter, then I'll jeopardise Gandalf's "subtle" look!

If it only does it when cold it is because the glow plugs are heating up. Mine is keyless and it takes about the same time when I push the button. When it is warm it starts straight away.

Thanks so much as didn't want the 1.2 I would have returned the car as advertised as 1.0

Small changes to the exhaust system, I replaced rear boxes with Supersprint ones with ECE homologation. I wanted it to have a sportier sound, and to keep the stock look. Adapting OEM tips was more challenging than expected, but in the end they managed to fulfill my request. I am satisfied with the result, the sound at idle is more intense and darker. Much louder when pushing hard. The look is exactly like the original. IMG_4724.MOV

Big shout out to @EBCBrakesUK for receiving my yellow stuff brake pads today & thanks again...Top banana

Hi buddy , Sorry for a late reply back , I've been stuck on 12-hour night shifts, with no phone signal at all. First day off so had to go up the attic to dig the box out with the code on for you 🙂 Here is the code for you hope it works ok for you mate - HYUT-65-UHYTS-25

5J0601025AA is the same as 5J0601025AA 8Z8, so there really are only 3 parts listed. Ordering 5J0601025AA will give you 5J0601025AA 8Z8 8Z8 is just the colour code. Some sellers list this part as: 5J0601025AA 5J0601025AA 8Z8 5J0601025AA8Z8 It's useful to know this if you are searching for a part online, such as ebay. Most sellers will use the short format in their listings, ie. 5J0601025AA 5J0601025AA will always have the colour code 8Z8. There are no other colour codes for 5J0601025AA

It's starting the car but not so quick as it should. I went to a specialist who told me that the charge level is really low, although the battery itself is totally fine. So the quick drive on a motorway would not completely solve it. I guess it needs really long drive or charging

Gave the car its usual Detail yesterday Morning, Parked it under the Car Port and stood back to admire my hard work then... Decided the Side Bump Strips on the Doors had to go and embarked on a 2 Hour Job to remove them, Do you ever start doing something then regret it within a few Minutes but its too late and you have to see it through? Anyway I am glad I saw it through and the Car looks much Cleaner now in my opinion. Tools/Process used... : Heat Gun to gently warm up the Glue, This enabled the Strips to be peeled off the Doors. : Left behind was all of the Adhesive Glue which secured the Strips onto the Car, Again I gently Heated the Glue up which softened it and enabled it to be slowly peeled off in stages. : Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover was used to remove the remaining adhesive left behind. : Once 95% of Glue was removed there was a few really stubborn Black marks left behind from the adhesive so I used a Caramel Wheel on the Drill to remove those. I then Washed and Dried the Doors, Did a couple of Passes on each door using the D/A and Megs 105/205 Combo and added a Coat of Collinites 845 Wax on each Door. Excuse the crappy mobile phone pics! Old strips removed... Results...

Your rim is number 6 below, ie. 5J0601025AA Note, that every 0 is a number, NOT the letter O Notice that 6, 7, and 8 are the same except for the colour. Number 6 is diamond silver which has colour code 8Z8 Number 7 is white which has colour code FM9 Number 8 is black metallic which has colour code FL8 6 5J0601025AA aluminium rim 6,5JX16 ET43 Model data: PR-CM7 5J0601025AA8Z8 diamond silver Period: 0113 - 1214 7 5J0601025AC aluminium rim 6,5JX16 ET43 Model data: PR-CM5 5J0601025ACFM9 white Period: 0313 - 1214 8 5J0601025AD aluminium rim 6,5JX16 ET43 Model data: PR-CN4 5J0601025ADFL8 black metallic Period: 0313 - 1214 http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2015/drive_standart/697/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601060/part_id/0/lang/e Maybe take the opportunity to fit a much more pothole resistant and far more comfortable tyre and rim size. 6Jx14 ET37 5/100 57.1 (185/60R14 or 185/65R14 tyres) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-shell-14-pro-roomster-fabia-ii/p/5J0071494C+7ZS https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/plechovy-disk-14-/p/6Q7601027C+03C

If the brake pedal goes hard but then continues to sink to the floor, & there are no leaks in the system, the master cylinder seals must be leaking. That is on top of the other problems you have highlighted. Sounds like the whole braking system need an inspection & overhaul.

The "newer" cars have a chip soldered into the circuit board. The FII chip is still separate. You need an ID48 chip and a frequency of 434 MHz for the remote. Any locksmith can cut the blank blade and some locksmiths are able and willing to clone. You might need to bring your V5C. The complete key cost me £60.

Quartz grey basking in the sun

My TDI Mk4 VRS, in love with the colour!

Finally both are under the roof.

Petrol DSG 🤘

Titan blue + ceramic coating

thanks to all on this, i will go with 5 years..but it will be going to an indepedant garage..SKODA/VW are taking advantage Hoot in Plymouth