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Yes mate. think this will be my last internal combustion engine, the way things are moving, so figured, go balls out for my last hurrah!! 🤣🤣🤣

So it's the end of the road for my five-year Skoda journey. Started with an Octavia (where I endured the permanent noise and fidgeting of a torsion beam back axle - never again!), then graduated to a Superb. For me, the Superb is the best of Skoda: genuinely decent ingredients wrapped up in a handsome body which swallowed everything that having two daughters at university at the same time could throw at it. I reckon the Superb is at its best lower down the range, where it's not trying to be something that it's place in the VW pecking order won't allow. So whatever people tell you. the 1.4/1.5 TSi is perfectly capable of shifting this barge in a quiet, smooth manner, as long as you're not tempted to indulge in the kind of cornering that exposes the ocean liner suspension settings. My 2018 car had the updated infotainment system and blending voice commands with Apple CarPlay works brilliantly. It's been such an easy barge to pedal around in. Coming towards the end of the PCP, I did wonder about replacing it with a Superb iV, which again looks like a good value intro into decent hybrid tech. But...the dealer was disinterested and in the end I came back to what is (for me, anyway) the nagging issue with Skoda: they're better than you'd expect, but never quite as good as they could be. The Superb has got the ingredients to be very quiet, opulently comfortable and remarkably refined. But we all know why it falls short of that. I no longer need anything as big, so looked initially at an Audi A3. No new cars available until September because of the production delays caused by he global shortage of semiconductors brought on by soaring demand for computers and mobile devices during lockdown. But found a Golf 8 eTSi 1.5 DSG mild hybrid in stock, specced nicely, and went for it. I've heard plenty of nightmare stories about its glitchy infotainment (which is the next generation on from the Superb), and the panoply of driver assistance systems is taking some getting used to. But it has fully-independent rear suspension. It's quiet and smooth. The End.

https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www.hartleywintneymotorsuk.co.uk

Worth a google and a look at Trustpilot etc on the seller.

We thought the LED lights were worthwhile. They’re substantially brighter than non LED. Your mileage may vary though. Depends what value you place on it. The electric boot is not something I’d pay extra for, but it is something I miss when I use our car that doesn’t have the electric boot. The SEL suede seats do not get hot in the sun. We effectively paid extra to get an SEL over the Edition model because we preferred the suede seats to leather, and ding regret our choice of seats. If you’re doing decent miles/hours in the car then I would consider the upgrade to electric seats purely for the additional lumbar support options. We have the factory electric tow bar to use with our bike rack, and if you’re using the tow bar frequently then it’s fantastic. I wouldn’t buy another car that isn’t DSG/auto. It’s great. I never find myself thinking it’s in the wrong gear. Ours is the 190bhp diesel, so 4x4 and slightly worse economy than the 2wd 150bhp diesel. We get 40-45mpg. 50mpg on certain runs if you’re exceptionally careful. 35-40mpg in the winter or on short runs. If I were buying again I’d get the petrol version as you have to do stupid numbers of miles (30k pa) to offset the higher purchase cost of the diesel, which we’re no longer doing in this weird Covid world of ours.

All a grey area. first 3 years really Oil & Filter changes at Variable or Flexible Service Intervals. Pollen filter @ 2 years. Rest is Inspect & Report. Diagnostic check. ***It is really 3 years / 30,000 miles on from the PDI / First Registration when the Servicing Extended Scope begins. *** The Screen shots are the Extended Warranties, so after 3 years in the UK, the PDF's at the bottom are for new cars, or used / extended warranty. To maintain the Warranty you have to Service the car to the Manufacturers Recommendations. The thing is that Skoda do not make The Recommendations very clear. Sometimes they are Guidelines but never Schedules. They say Service to Manufacturers Specifications. Try finding the Specifications in the Owners Manual or ask at a Service Desk. Try asking about Cam Belt changes or if the Haldex should have a pump or filter cleaned or the Specifications for the AC servicing. You can even buy a 3 or 4 year old Skoda Approved used car that has a Warranty yet not had the Brake Fluid replaced @ 3 years or the Haldex Oil or the DSG serviced at 40,000 miles, or spark plugs changed or a Fuel Filter. You can have a Service Plan or buy a car serviced using a Service Plan and yet the Main Dealers are not Servicing to the Manufacturers Recommendations if they are not doing brake fluid, Haldex or DSG servicing unless that is paid for as extra cost service action. 36172_SKODA_Approved_Used_Warranty_Dec20_SINGLES.pdf SKODA_Warranty_Terms_August_2021_New_Car-1.pdf

I’ve just come out of a 2.0tdi SEL Yeti for a 1.4L 6sp 4x4 SEL 7st Kodiaq. Bags of room in it. Much quieter than the diesel, smoother ride too. Taken a few miles to adjust to the torque differences but done over 100 miles today, bringing it back from Skoda Mansfield, through Chesterfield and Sheffield to Wakefield and then a stop/start trip through Bradford traffic and back. 39.4 mpg average with 2 up and the dog. Long term mpg I noticed was 34mpg logged by the previous owner though. I’d expect with more load or a spirited right foot, it could drop the mpg to low 30s but I’m happy with my figures today. Corners nicely and it’s well behaved on the motorway. We think SEL spec is worth it, especially on a used car. Alcantara is easier to live with in the sun than full leather. Kodiaq heated seats are lush.

Turns out they're an 'appreciating classic' now. Who knew?! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2005-Skoda-Octavia-1-8T-vRS-Black-MK1-20v-Turbo-89-000-Miles-RS-HATCHBACK-Petrol/133679713722?hash=item1f1fee8dba:g:-6IAAOSwBTpgPR-v

Long post warning, but this is not something that can be explained in a few lines. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know as much as they think they do. Ok, so EGR & DPF are different things, doing different jobs. The emissions update can affect longevity of either but in different ways. Between some correspondence of my own with VAG in Ireland, and reading through papers from UK parliament on the matter, two things were established about the update: Increased use of EGR to directly control NOx formation during the combustion process Increased soot generation to allow passive reduction of NOx by oxidising soot held in the DPF Some background on how/why this is so. NOx forms during the combustion process due to the 'burning' of atmospheric nitrogen that has been brought into the engine. The temperature and pressure present during combustion create suitable conditions for this to happen. Nitrogen and fuel are competing for oxygen during combustion. In engines that run rich (more fuel than the available oxygen can consume), NOx generation is minimal as oxygen will more readily react with fuel rather than nitrogen. But this is not desirable for economy or other criterion pollutants. Also, in diesel engines, running rich makes them run hot which is undesirable as well. Engines that run lean are more economical but the excess of oxygen present means conditions favour production of more NOx. DIesels have always had this problem as diesel engines are happier running lean. Modern DI petrol engines which support lean running are also vulnerable to increased NOx generation. One other aspect of combustion behaviour is that regardless of how much oxygen is present, a certain gas volume is needed to ensure adequate distribution of fuel droplets and vapour so that combustion can initiate. Too close is bad as the concentration of fuel vapour between droplets won't get down below the Upper Flammability Limit and combustion won't initiate or propagate. EGR helps solve this conundrum. Exhaust gas is much lower in oxygen than fresh air obviously, making it relatively inert from a combustion perspective. The trick with EGR is that it uses this inert exhaust gas to displace some fresh air from the combustion process, so now there's less excess oxygen available to form NOx, but it maintains the same gas volume in the cylinder, so there's still enough distribution of fuel in there to allow the combustion process to proceed. It generally only operates at low engine loads where fuel requirement is minimal and there would otherwise be a lot of excess oxygen in the cylinder. When the load ramps up and fuel/air ratio approaches stoichiometric, EGR would cause more problems than it solves. The emissions update increases EGR under low-moderate loads, which is what most of the EU test cycle is run at, but probably has changed very little at higher loads. The reason some EGRs are dying after it is that they have gotten gunked up over the life of the vehicle prior to the update, but only outside of the range of movement they would have operated within. The update commanding wider EGR opening means pushing the valve into that gunk and some of them get stuck and fail. Once replaced, a similar failure in future is unlikely, beyond the normal life expectancy of the component, as any subsequent gunking will be outside the new range of movement. Now DPF. Its job is pretty self-explanatory. All DI engines (petrol or diesel) produce soot, it's an inevitable side effect of spray combustion processes. Diesels have been DI for much longer than petrols, and have until recently received the lion's share of attention when it comes to reducing/eliminating particulate emissions. (Euro 6 has brought in a requirement for particulate filters on petrols.) DPFs are a filter matrix designed to capture soot from the exhaust and hold it until a predetermined amount is stored at which point the engine shifts its operating parameters and ignites the soot to clear the filter. A small amount of ash (mostly from lubricating oil that's made it into the exhaust) gets left behind, and this eventually kills the DPF but it takes a while. Now NOx comes back into the picture. Nitrous oxides are themselves pretty decent oxidisers, as evidenced by their use in a lot of rocket motors for that purpose (a bit easier to handle than liquid oxygen). Even with EGR and other combustion management strategies to minimise NOx generation during combustion, there's still some amount of it generated and this needs to be dealt with. One strategy employed to deal with this is set up the DPF so that the NOx passing through it in the exhaust gas stream oxidises some of the soot collected in it, turning it into CO2 and nitrogen. This process passively regenerates the DPF also, eliminating soot during normal engine operation. Which is what most EA189 engines in Skodas do. The emissions update increased soot generation to use it as a NOx reduction measure in the DPF. It's not going to affect the amount of oil ash getting into the filter. The only way it might shorten the DPF life is due to the more frequent regens resulting in more thermal cycling, causing a failure of the filter material itself. This is more likely to be on cars that are driven on lots of short trips. Longer trips result in a lot more passive regeneration and thus fewer active regeneration cycles. Could one affect the other? Yes, they're part of the same system. The whole thing has been engineered to work together as well as possible, while trying to make the best of the inevitable compromises a complex engineered system requires. It's not as simple as your mate down the pub might have you believe though. To backtrack a little, the engine ECU is monitoring and controlling two core parameters: how much fuel goes in, and how much air goes in. How much air goes in is monitored by the MAF and MAP sensors. How much fuel goes in is monitored by the fuel metering system. But there's a third part to this that never gets discussed but that is nevertheless important: the lambda sensor in the exhaust. That one monitors how much oxygen remains in the exhaust leaving the engine and that data is used to control the quantity of fuel injected into the engine (in tandem with the MAF/MAP readings). Why does this matter? From descriptions I'm seeing on this thread, the EGR emulators are just tweaking the MAF readings, making the engine think EGR is working normally. If we follow this through, the engine is now getting more oxygen than it realises, meaning more oxygen in the exhaust. The lambda sensor sees this and tells the engine to send more fuel. During high EGR demand driving situations this means more fuel, higher fuel consumption, maybe a bit more soot, maybe more NOx. I don't know if the ECU is set up to detect mismatch between fuel injection quantity and MAF, if it did, you could see errors down the line (I'm guessing a bit here TBH). Personally, I don't think EGR defeats like this are a good idea. On modern engines with such closely coupled sub-systems running within tight margins, it's too easy to upset something without realising it until bits start to break. If you're willing to accept that possibility, feel free to go for it. You are ultimately your own warranty though: the manufacturer will not want to know about it if things break. There's always the possibility of it ultimately costing more to put right than if it had been fixed day one.

Skoda UK have to authorise the Warranty Repair / Replacement. The Dealership is acting as your agent and dealing with Skoda. Skoda UK is in the wrong here and the Dealership are behaving badly. Read the T&C's and the exclusions. Read about making Claims on the Warranty. SKODA_Warranty_Terms_August_2021_New_Car-1.pdf

Should do

If there is no other individual codes on the PCB, it will be a traceability code with the look up tables held by the PCB manufacturer for dates and bill of materials etc. Skoda won't necessarily know whats in this code unless they requested a breakdown of details from the supplier.

Errr, asking for a friend, of course. Is there software to compose such things, and does that mean that you could compose T-shirts with more-or-less arbitrary messages on them that no one else could read? Just hypothetically, of course.

Usually, the thing that requires the fastest reaction is start/stop, and particularly, current limit in fault conditions. It isn't all 'deliberate' start/stop, if someone puts their hand, or neck, in the way of the window, you don't want a quasi-unlimited current/torque to be available, on the other hand you do want enough torque to be available to wind the window up or down reliably. So, it has got to be controlled, and within a moderately narrow range, or one extreme of the range will go wrong.

They are lying, warranty work can be done at any dealer and they will be paid by Skoda UK. I bought my Octavia from a Skoda dealer in Southampton but had warranty work done by the dealer in Barnstaple after moving to Devon.

Righty ho, here goes, just went out again to investigate. it can be disabled! with the unit switched on, press menu and then the top, right hand switch/button/channel selector thing says either aux on or aux off. Cycle this and it goes on or off and if off, the aux is disabled! Logical, really! Press menu, press so aux on is up and then press menu again or I think it goes back to normal after a short while, anyway. Hopefully, this will reinstate your aux function. (Bit long-winded but hopefully clear). Given that there is no aux logo at all, perhaps the port on the rear of the unit is unplugged or perhaps the aux port has a fuse and it is blown. You could also try disconnecting the battery for a while as the units code won't be affected if its the correct one and it does its own test afterward. It may then work, with a little luck.

Dont forget you have the +/- settings too. Its worth leaving in comfort or sport and playing with the micro-adjust. You might find you prefer a major setting higher or lower than you expected because of it. Sounds like you are happy with it though.

We have the engine in a Seat Arona. Had the fix applied quite soon after picking it up at 18 months old. It's MrsG's car so I did drive it much before the fix but can confirm it's not as lively. Not sure on the peak power as I rarely get to give it that much but I almost wish we had got the 1.0 110ps. Drove the 90ps version in a vw up recently and it was great fun.

I doubt a Citigo will get over 40mph with a big lump of wind resistance on the roof. I don't think the Citigo is a suitable vehicle for carrying kayaks,

One of the ac pumps fitted to mkiis had issues with the pulley nut coming loose and also shear plate issues meaning no drive to the ac pump so something else to look at.

Why do you think the vRS is too noisy? Mine is almost silent apart from a bit of tyre/wind noise. If anything it's far too quiet! The main gripes with the vRS are all around the infotainment/controls, they are just not user friendly and so glitchy. The vRS does drive really well but I'm definitely getting another Superb!

Thanks mate!!

Good job! Looks really nice with the springs and white/black combination!

Ah found it, just in case anyone is reading. On the Octavia technology 1.0 , mine is 2019 there is no button but in the onscreen menus there is the facility to change the driving mode ( it’s called driving programs if I remember correctly?) good to know it’s there if I want to change it..... Thanks john

Nice one! Totally agree with you on the engine part. This is also why I went with the TSI RS. Would of course take the 300 BHP Octy if it would be available. I hope you will enjoy your new car!

I have the 190ps version of the 2.0tsi engine with 7 speed dsg and tow a trailer + boat. Works very well - but be careful when crawling in slow traffic, especially uphill - the gearbox won't like that so much, could overheat. The advice I found is if you are in a traffic jam is to let the traffic ahead move forward a bit and wait before you move so you avoid slowly crawling along. Also, in this situation put the dsg into sport mode so it holds in first gear rather than shifting to second. I guess you could do this using manual mode too.

A few from RHS Harlow Carr today....

Already replacing parts from the 6 speed swap 🤣 starter motor didn’t like starting when it was hot.

Just purchase fabia vrs se no. 730 here in northern ireland hope to have it for a long time getting a refurb

Depends on what you're padding. I haven't got a citigo, but my 7 foot long coaching / use and abuse boat lives on the 4 foot long roof of my MK2 caddy. It's just laid upside down on a cheap pair of bars with four pound shop straps, 2 in a barrel wrap for and aft and two in a barrel wrap making a cross, it can do thousands of miles up there and not move an inch

The Colour Edition combo of this blue and the black accents make a really great looking little car. And this being such an easy car to drive should make it a joy to learn in. Lucky girl!

finding the Amundsen+ easy to use, bt working well, no dab with this unit, sat nav needing to be updated, so not sure if any use yet, as i got the unit for the bt not to worried, sound quality about the same as the Bolero.

Yeah, not the inertia reel mechanism but a small pyrotechnic charge which acts on the the S/B to tighten it under a hard impact.

Stop following blue Fords. That gives you some idea how noticeable the mark isn't at first glance.

DieselMonte, Great many thanks for your detailed response. That was very helpful. I will wait and see what the MOT tells me next week. It might just be that the bushes (especially the rear ones) are only advisory at this stage and might go through for another year. I didn't drive much in this lockdown year and they were advisory at the last MOT. But it looks most likely if the MOT complains, that it will only be the rear ones which might need to be done and if so, I will follow your advice on just replacing the bushes. The front ones seem to be very solid and no play. Thanks again Robert PS: I checked if the bolts are moving, including the 3 nuts on the ball joint, and they all do, so no worries about needing an impact gun, just a long lever. :-) Ball joint feels OK, so I will just remove the bottom 3 nuts and leave the ball joint in place for another day under the car in years to come

I be got a 190 sport line petrol and I am pleased with it. I have always looked on Skoda with suspicion but having done a lot of research concluded that for the money they could not be beaten. I toyed with the idea of the 280 petrol but concluded in the real world it just used too much fuel. I purchased a few months old with just under 7k on the clock and saved about 15k in the process. The car has plenty of power for everyday motoring, I was in fact surprised how well it performs considering its size. so far I am a happy convert.

Looks like you'll have to ask your Golf related questions here then as I'm sure there'll always be someone able to help!

In my limited experience android and IoS both work as they should stick to what you normally use in my case iPhone 11 Pro

It's the ECU and never heard of one in these cars getting fried due to getting too hot, sounds as you're worrying for no real reason?

Sorted. Well hopefully. Great customer service from Aviva. The claim was still open but the claimant had apparently never come back with any evidence. So NCB will be reinstated and renewal go ahead.

I'm afraid it's unavoidable, there are some VERY argumentative people piling in.

I have several issues with the Kamiq. The interior quality is obviously more Scala/Fabia than Octavia/Superb The platform is also the MQB AO platform and the most powerful versions can only tow 1250kg. (Yeti 2100kg) And the seating position is more Scala Scout than SUV. Looking at the Kamiq 1.5 SEL and Karoq 1.5SEL the lists are £26k vs £29k . The Karoq feels like a £29k car, the Kamiq doesn't feel like a £26k car. So for me it's either go bigger and go Karoq or swap manufacturers. The Kamiq is no Yeti replacement for me.

G12++ or G12evo will protect for longer. If you replace the coolant every 2 years then G13 will do as well. You can mix G12++ and G13 freely. I also recently removed the silicate bag, and I still have 4l+ of G13 concentrate. My compromise solution is to use G12++ mixed with G13 50:50 and then 1 part of this mix with 2 parts water. I still am going to do a part flush of 2l / per year or so. My preference would be 25% G12++ : 25% G13 : 50% H2O but it seems my 184bhp diesel vRS is cooling limited when on autobahn and above 130mph - oil temperature creeps up to 115degC after 5-10min or so. More water in coolant seems to give extra 2-3deg C headroom. I looked at fitting an additional oil cooler, but decided it's too much hassle.

my 2 cents: I had the same problem like yours. My car is a former taxi turned private with 210k Km on the clock. When pressing the clutch, there was a rumble that came and gone but started always when i pressed the clutch. The clutch was acting ok. 2 days ago the clutch pedal suddenly stuck down. The mechaic replaced both master and slave cylinders and bled the air from the system. Today he bled the air again and i was off. 20 minutes later, i got stuck on the highway without any clutch response, no gears were engaged. The clutch smelled burned. If your car has the original clutch i suggest you start with replacing it. If it's fairly new (less than 60k Km), then replace both master and slave cylinders (including bleeding out the air).

That's not a proper fit for RHD cars, too slim. Correct fit is the exact same as a RHD golf R, see mine in image below ￡20.56 40%OFF | 3 pcs RHD Foot Rest Pedal Dead Pedal Cover For VW Golf 7 Mk7 VII GTI R A3 8V 2013 2014 2015 2016 Right-Hand-Drive https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtOQAK3

Wheels and new rubber on. VRS door bump strips painted and fitted. Side skirts painted and fitted. Still looking for a decent rear VRS bumper. Cupra R chin spoiler to go on at some point.

Discreet indeed

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/490695-recalls Recalls require the Registered Keeper made aware of a Recall. the DVLA give the manufacturers the contact details. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall Skoda Recall Actions can be Skoda Secret Service Campaign Actions and they are rather shy about having everyone know about them. Even the Customer Services at Skoda or the Service Desk Staff at a Dealership are like Mushrooms. (Kept in the dark and shovelled poo.) Even the VIN checker might not show all Recall Actions or Service Campaigns. http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions