Leaderboard

It's nice to see, but TBH they should be standard in the UK and an option of a summer/winter set at cost. It would make new cars instantly safer in poor conditions we see a lot of the year and not noticably worse to anyone that isn't a rally driver in summer. Those that want the best in the conditions pay for it, which they're used to doing currently anyway. I can't see most people/fleets paying £180, but if they were standard I can't imagine too many typical buyers not accepting them. I really do think the law should change to state that all cars sold in the UK must come with tyres appropriate for the season in which they are sold or to be used. No point selling a car on summers coming up to winter and no point selling a car on winters coming up to summer.

Likewise; it's more likely for a bad plug to eat a coilpack, and it is possible for a new plug to also be bad. My experience across all the sets of plug my meatspace friends and I have replaced says that about 1 plug in 1_000 is bad; I make that 1/1_000_000_000_000 that you'd get 4 bad plugs.

I made my intention to the dealer in writing (by email). The dealer did basically nothing whatsoever for several weeks, other than keep saying to me (whenever I chased it up, they NEVER once contacted me with an update) that they were in touch with Skoda. About what? No idea and not my concern. After around three weeks of nothingness I finally demanded they fulfil the reject immediately. My dealer had a little hissy fit like a petulant child, saying these things take time, but the next day it got sorted miraculously quick. I was in the same boat as you, PCP through VWFS. The process was finalised by the dealership refunding me all of my upfront money (deposit/services) and refunded all of the monthly payments I had made. So, other than insurance and petrol, the car cost me nothing for 5 months. The dealer basically just bought the car back from me using the settlement figure they obtained from VWFS. My agreement is yet to close but is due to within a few days, at which point when the car no longer has finance on it I have ZERO doubt the dealership will put it up for sale At the time of rejecting the car I also notified VWFS, but they did absolutely nothing for me. I would email them so they are aware, but do not expect them to jump in and help. Your contract is with the dealership, so reject the car to them. I STRONGLY advise, from my experience, to do so in writing and insist on ALL correspondence from them to be in writing. You will need this as evidence if you end up going to the Ombudsman. Be firm but polite though. My dealer was totally ineffectual and did nothing to keep me updated, but yours may be nicer and better. So be polite at the start! Don't bother wasting your time, like many of us did, with Skoda UK/Kate Laws etc. They are not interested, you have no contract with them, they will feed you BS and false promises. It's up to you if you go ahead with it, but I can advise you to do nothing else other than reject it immediately. We aren't Skoda's guinea pigs at our expense. You're paying a big chunk per month for an amazing experience, not what you are experiencing. Honestly please believe me when I say that a huge amount of stress lifted from my shoulders by binning that horror of a car.

Thats the thing , i dont know what i want , i love the VRS , it drives well , looks great. Cant think of any other car in that segment i would want. I wanted a Kodiaq Sportline but it was too expensive. Aftersales manager at the dealer is calling me today. I expect that as others have said that a new software version above 1788 will be available. Ill keep y'all posted

No going back for me. First dsg was my last car. A Yeti 150ps tai. When changing to current car it had to be dsg. Never again to suffer from left leg screaming out in a traffic jam from constant use. Indeed I was caught in a 30min crawl on the A1 yesterday and the dsg saved me from hundreds of clutch operations. And one of the comments above talking about manuals and “slush boxes” can only be from someone who has not had the pleasure of owning a dsg which is actually an automated true gearbox with a clutch, not a torque converter wasting large amounts of power

Lets see if I can copy in the complete spreadsheet... (all info found in Search results for 'skoda karoq' - How Many Left?) Skoda Karoq UK Registrations (Cumulative to Q4/2020) Model 2017 2018 2019 2020 SE 1.0 TSI 2 700 1475 1525 3.7% SE 1.5 TSI 1 550 1175 2333 5.6% SE 1.5 TSI DSG 2 609 1150 1850 4.5% SE 1.5 TSI DSG 4x4 18 17 0.0% SE 1.6 TDI 506 828 904 2.2% SE 1.6 TDI DSG 288 615 666 1.6% SE 2.0 TDI SCR 101 146 0.4% SE 2.0 TDI SCR 4x4 1 107 207 212 0.5% SE 2.0 TDI SCR DSG 4x4 1 49 119 127 0.3% Total SE 7 2809 5688 7780 18.8% SE Drive 1.5 TSI 360 0.9% SE Drive 1.5 TSI DSG 230 0.6% SE Drive 1.6 TDI 7 0.0% SE Drive 1.6 TDI SCR 6 0.0% SE Drive 1.6 TDI DSG 7 0.0% Total SE Drive 610 1.5% SE Nav+ 1.0 TSI 610 715 715 1.7% SE Technology 1.0 TSI 5 240 522 994 2.4% SE Technology 1.5 TSI 3 161 380 594 1.4% SE Technology 1.5 TSI DSG 3 318 575 1071 2.6% SE Technology 1.5 TSI DSG 4x4 1 1 0.0% SE Technology 1.6 TDI 6 167 514 622 1.5% SE Technology 1.6 TDI DSG 5 113 435 520 1.3% SE Technology 2.0 TDI SCR 80 129 0.3% SE Technology 2.0 TDI SCR 4x4 5 55 135 133 0.3% SE Technology 2.0 TDI SCR DSG 4x4 5 21 83 126 0.3% Total SE Technology 32 1075 2725 4190 10.1% SE L 1.5 TSI 9 2250 4250 5849 14.1% SE L 1.5 TSI DSG 7 2250 4950 7216 17.4% SE L 1.5 TSI DSG 4x4 115 116 0.3% SE L 1.6 TDI 2 1050 1550 1628 3.9% SE L 1,6 TDI DSG 1 1250 2050 2132 5.1% SE L 2.0 TDI SCR 165 357 0.9% SE L 2.0 TDI SCR 4x4 8 312 627 642 1.6% SE L 2.0 TDI SCR DSG 4x4 6 274 516 726 1.8% Total SE L 33 7386 14223 18666 45.1% Scout 1.5 TSI DSG 4x4 61 62 0.1% Scout 2.0 TDI 4x4 7 251 278 0.7% Scout 2.0 TDI DSG 4x4 69 159 0.4% Total Scout 7 381 499 1.2% Sportline 1.5 TSI 108 392 0.9% Sportline 1.5 TSI DSG 287 1328 3.2% Sportline 1.5 TSI DSG 4x4 191 839 2.0% Sportline 2.0 TSI DSG 4x4 350 644 1.6% Sportline 2.0 TDI SCR 31 98 0.2% Sportline 2.0 TDI SCR 4x4 43 675 712 1.7% Sportline 2.0 TDI DSG 4x4 120 329 0.8% Total Sportline 43 1762 4342 10.5% Edition 1.5 TSI 2 431 498 669 1.6% Edition 1.5 TSI DSG 5 1150 1350 1955 4.7% Edition 1.5 TSI DSG 4x4 290 297 0.7% Edition 2.0 TDI 9 70 0.2% Edition 2.0 TDI 4x4 3 193 528 557 1.3% Edition 2.0 TDI DSG 4x4 5 597 944 1055 2.5% Total Edition 15 2371 3619 4603 11.1% Total TSI 39 9269 18461 29057 70.2% Total TDI 48 5032 10652 12348 29.8% TSI + TDI 87 14301 29113 41405 Total Manual 47 7382 14824 19932 48.1% Total DSG 40 6919 14289 21473 51.9% Manual + DSG 87 14301 29113 41405 Total FWD 53 12643 23813 34373 83.0% Total 4x4 34 1658 5300 7032 17.0% FWD + 4x4 87 14301 29113 41405 Grand Total 87 14301 29113 41405

Update on this guys. Might help someone else. it wasn’t the infamous sunroof hose after all. Which I always doubted anyway as the roof cloth was always bone dry. Anyway noticed the rear was soaking again and so decided to do a more thorough investigation. Traced it back to the sunroof area for sure by doing localised water tests and watching for the water coming in ( which was coming in at the right hand rear, in the quarter just behind the door) Checked all runoff pipes and poured endless amounts of water into the sunroof channels and it came pouring out over the wheel wells as it should. No water coming into through the rear quarter. Closed sunroof again and poured water over it and water coming into the car. So it must be the sunroof subframe where it’s bonded to the roof. Could be a hole in the seal. That needed removing the plastic surround to get a better look. Did that and couldn’t see any obvious gap in the seal but when I poured water there it vanished quickly and poured in at the rear quarter- so that was the problem ( we thought). Anyway, primed and sealed the subframe. Left to dry and water tested. Water still coming in 🤦‍♂️🤯 Eventually I found a tiny hole in the body of the car, right in the corner where all water would almost funnel to and then enter the roof skin, travel along the skin until it found an out point which was where some plastic wire holders where clicked into the body frame in that rear quarter panel. Hence why no wet roof cloth. Sealed the pin hole. Poured water for 20 min - not a drop in anymore. 😎

Well, to me plugs 1 and 3 look Ok, 2 looks very sooty and 4 maybe a bit sooty. Have you checked the injectors? If you have VCDS you're looking for the duty cycle, and it should be around the same for all 4 injectors, and under 90% for preference.

Have you any coolant loss from expansion tank or strange noises when startup / idle? I've just had the £250 + labour waterpump part replaced. Mine 11 years old, If this waterpump part is failing it could cause boost problems.

That similar to viva HC/ Firenza retro

for Skoda Columbus, Seat Navi Plus, VW Discover Pro, Audi MMI Navigation Plus # ECE 2021-2022 25.8 Gb Version: V03.959.810.BT 0192 ECE 2021-2022 VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P192_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/P192_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT.7z Files inside: 2020.10.20 Downloadable: 2021.05.12 Published: 2021.06.30 Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/HIGH12_P192_EU_202125.zip Files inside: 2020.10.20 Downloadable: 2021.06.02 Published: 2021.06.22 Seat portal: Downloadable: 2021.--.-- Published: 2021.--.-- # Rest of World 2021-2022 24.2 Gb Version: V03.959.810.CA 0097 ROW 2021-2022 VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P97_N60S5MIBH3_ROW_NT.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/P97_N60S5MIBH3_ROW_NT.7z Files inside: 2020.11.26 Downloadable: 2021.05.12 Published: 2021.06.30 Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/HIGH12_P97_ROW_202122.zip Files inside: 2020.11.26 Downloadable: 2021.06.02 Published: 2021.06.22 ======= coverage ======= # EU Albania*, Andorra, Austria, Belarus*, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina*, Bulgaria*, Croatia, Cyprus*, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia*, Finland, France, Germany, Gibraltar, Great Britain, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo*, Latvia*, Liechtenstein, Lithuania*, Luxembourg, Malta, Moldova*, Monaco, Montenegro*, Netherlands, Northern Macedonia*, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania*, Russia*, San Marino, Serbia*, Slovakia, Slovenia*, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey*, Ukraine*, Vatican City * partially # ROW Argentina*, Australia, Bahrain, Botswana*, Brazil*, Brunei*, Chile*, Indonesia*, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lesotho*, Malaysia, Mexico*, Mozambique*, Namibia*, New Zealand, Oman, Philippines*, Qatar, Reunion*, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Africa, Swaziland*, Thailand*, Turkey*, United Arab Emirates * partially ======= instruction ======= 1. download 7z/zip archive from direct link 2. extract content to SD Card or USB 3. insert memory device into slot of Columbus 4. start of update usually is offered automatically, manually can be found under Navi-> Settings !!! note for MAC users -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/452002-direct-download-links-for-ece-20182019-maps/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5095042 couple of potential questions are answered in previous posts: Columbus Maps 2021 Columbus Maps 2020/2021 Columbus Maps 2020

Hello Everyone My 2020 Octavia has what I believe to be transmission noise below 25 mph. I’ve had it seen by two different Skoda garages but as I can’t share a car during lockdown I can’t demonstrate while driving and a salesperson tested it last! There is a distinct whine below 25 mph (worse going uphill) which disappears when I push the clutch in. There is also a disconcerting rattling sound after changing gear below 25 mph which stops as the car picks up. If I push the clutch in this sound vanishes also. I am worried that this points to a transmission problem which may take years till actual breakdown... at my expense! I have never heard anything similar in a car before and have had several Golfs and Passat... but a brand new Octavia! Has anyone else any similar experience?

Yes. They’re posted on my project thread.

I'm aware the mod for 30 colour pallet in the ambient lighting screen has been mentioned several times on the forum. TLDR: The RGB values used on available in the table at the bottom on my post. There was some rough guidance on RGB values, but I wanted to aim for an OEM+ look. I've taken some time build a colour pallet of 30 colours based on the original 10 that come as standard. Rather than attempting to join up the dots by looking at raw RGB values, I've built a gradient for the 10 RGB values from the originals. I then referenced 30 colours from the gradient and noted down the values. Below is the original screen values, the gradient, and the 30 colours picked out. The ambient lighting strip uses different colours values to the screen values, interesting though, the white value from the ambient light strip is actually a light green, but appears white on the strip. The original pallet prior to coding: The 30 colour pallet after coding. A massive thanks for @Ivan8192 for helping with the script, and allowing access to his VCDS again! and to @SashaGracefor piquing my interest into this mod. For anyone interested the RGB values are available below: Screen Ambient Strip Basic Colour Red Green Blue Basic Colour Red Green Blue White 217 221 233 White 120 231 71 229 205 161 163 221 49 241 190 88 205 211 26 Yellow 253 174 16 Yellow 247 202 4 254 155 18 234 167 2 254 135 34 208 128 3 Orange 253 115 50 Orange 183 89 5 251 85 52 189 60 5 247 51 47 215 40 4 Red 244 18 43 Red 241 20 3 244 19 73 255 27 17 247 59 142 255 65 49 Lilac 251 100 212 Lilac 255 105 82 232 109 243 244 134 112 197 98 247 196 136 136 Magenta 163 86 251 Magenta 149 138 160 129 77 255 104 139 183 87 85 255 70 130 207 Blue 45 93 255 Blue 37 121 229 5 101 255 4 111 251 0 127 255 8 142 226 Cyan 1 156 255 Cyan 17 179 194 1 184 255 26 215 162 1 194 214 35 229 120 Green 0 197 157 Green 45 236 73 0 200 99 54 242 27 30 210 70 58 228 3 Lemon 88 227 65 Lemon 58 196 2 145 244 60 57 163 1 182 255 57 57 132 0

Yeah the Denso I put in myself are with me, so they will stay with me as back up probably. No idea what he put in though which was a little concerning after reading many other threads, but I'll ask him or just whip one out tomorrow. I didn't get an invoice because he's behind, he knows us well so will just drop it by anytime. A rough estimate from the prices he gave I want to say just shy of £150 but I'm only guessing here. I did take a quick look at the chain and to my eyes seems okay. Tension also. I will have a read up. Yeah I was a little worried but after the test drive I feel much more comfortable. Thanks!

My car is now 5 years old, and while it has low mileage it was time to get the belt done. Unlike diesels they don't change the waterpump at the same time, as that resides on the other side of the engine, and is actually quite a complex and expensive unit so is only replaced if leaking. The upside is that it is a bit cheaper than a diesel, €500 from Skoda. The kits includes the belt and 2 pulleys and bolts, and was itemised as €300 on the bill. I asked for the used parts afterward and found that the belt looked like new, and both pulley bearings were butter smooth and play free. I'd say there was a LOT more life in them, but I'm holding onto the car for a while so was happy to get it done for peace of mind. The car also had an oil, pollen and air filter service, and they also removed the wishbone bushings and packed them with lithium grease to hopefully cure the dreaded suspension creak. They seemed well up to speed on the creak and did not charge for this. Free wipers also under special offer, €200 for the above was very fair. Happy customer.

I am inspecting my old waterpump 2moz, there is excessive play in the mechanism, will upload a video to the 'water pump thread' the new waterpump had no play, keep an eye on coolant as when it is near the end it really starts to suck the coolant

I had been through quite a few of the threads before joining but decided to jump on a give my story. Obviously i've read about many engine replacements, would you says it's unusual for something that serious to rear its head this late in its life?

This is how I originally discovered the oil problem and plug problem, also had 1 bad denso plug (unlucky) that is in them pictures above

@e-Roottoot @KenONeill Brilliant, thank you both for the info. I suppose it is not too much of a stretch to say that previous plugs had caused a coil go which caused a problem. Then my mechanic also put more new plugs in himself just because he *thought* it might have been an issue. Fitting a whole new set of 4 coils seems unnecessary? Means more money spent, however, if its sorted the thing out I'm happy with the arrangement.

Hi. I have just found this page after owning my Skoda for nearly 2 years.

Biological washing powder, wet the stain, sprinkle it on, work it in with a scrubbing brush then wet n dry vac it out. Other than that I use spot cleaning fluid given to me by a neighbour who is a carpet cleaner, I have a car valeting machine but also a Betterwear carpet cleaning plastic squeezy bottle thing that has a sponge applicator surrounded by brushes, using that works really well on stains followed by either the valeting machine or a wet n dry vacuum.

As with the other posts, spare wheel every time. With my previous Octavia VRS I bought a full size spare wheel. Dam good job I did. Hit a pothole and that caused a bulge in the tyre side wall. The tyre with the bulge got me home though. Bought a brand new tyre and a month later going round a roundabout, that new tyre hit a pothole and burst. The rubbish gunge you get with the car would not have helped there. So on went the spare wheel and continued my journey. With my present VRS, I have bought a space saver wheel and again dumped that plastic tub of gunge. Moral of the story is, you might not ever burst a tyre, but if you ever do, you will be so glad you bought a spare wheel so that you are not left stranded.

Thanks for the replies so far. @Kobayashi Haven't noticed any coolants loss, however I haven't kept much of an eye on it up to yet so it is possible. And there is a noise for 30 seconds or so at cold start-up, hard to recall exactly without hearing it now but I want to say its a little squeak/tapping sound, maybe even close to a chirping. Isn't too loud but noticeable when idle with an open window. @KenONeill Okay, thanks for the info. I haven't checked the injectors and don't have VCDS either. I'm not very mechanically minded but know a few bits here, handy though so the plugs were no problem with a guide. @e-RoottootAll of the pulled plugs were just a fraction short of 0.7, I'd say close to 0.68. The new ones are have a gap of 0.8, as I think you also recommended or said you used in another thread. I have no documentation of a water pump being replaced, I will double check now and get back if there is. I haven't used the cruise control but perhaps I should give that a test as see if it does as you say? That's if my car returns without any reported problem, which is likely. Thanks

Got you thanks for that sepulchrave will do that now then take it for a spin down the motorway :P

Haha predictive text (Torx) 🤦‍♂️

Erm - as in to buy or someone using it? They are super easy to buy, first hit on eBay for instance: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233866295090

@Nodnerb Welcome to the forum. Could you check the gap on all 4 of those plugs you removed, and what was the gap at with the new Denso plugs you fitted? PS Under acceleration you have turbo & supercharger up to 3,500 rpm. Commonly the misfires are at around that point under hard acceleration, then the Super Charger disengages. ? Do you know if the Water Pump been replaced. One think i noticed when a water pump / supercharger magnetic pump was going to be needing changed is not just a little drop in coolant, but if you had the car in Cruise Control and at around 70 mph, if you started to go up an incline on the motorway / dual carriageway the Engine Exhaust Emission Light could come on or the Engine light and the ECP could both come on.

The motors normally stop by sensing a current overload at the top or bottom of travel, but if your window gets sticky, or if the seals are grubby or worn, the motor can draw too much current and stop. First, try giving the glass a really good clean, then check the seals. If all is well, you may have a failing window motor...

Thanks @whitevx, go the Aussies! (spolier alert I'm an ex POM), no not yet, hopefully soon. Waiting until we're in the position to actually buy... 😁

I had a bmw 320d GT automatic and the old Skool “official mpg” is 59mpg and WLTP of 56mpg whereas on honest John the average is 49mpg. So 54.3 mpg is pretty respectable. That is with coasting enabled which I had to code in my self which increased the mpg by maybe 2-3mpg. I live in northern Britain near the original perth and have a 36m commute on twisty, hilly roads with 4 villages/towns to pass through so it isn’t really a great run for maximising mpg. my alternate route is +10 miles a day but only has 2 towns to go through - but 10 miles a day is 2000 miles a year and even with better mpg it does cost more in fuel and added wear and depreciation. Concerning range my maximum daily mileage is only 120 miles and average is 90miles which is comfortably within this vehicles range. Otherwise we have two cars so can use the petrol for longer journeys. The range on EVs will no doubt improve during the three years I have it and another matter is that although EV is the current “future” power source it doesn’t entirely rule out some other green tech popping up and changing the landscape entirely.. I do love the Scala though and it is the car my heart wanted but the 320d gt was what my heart wanted and it emptied my bank account faster than a Hollywood housewife 😂 lesser Britain? Pfft never.

Yes I love the idea of having solar panels plus a back up battery. If I had of settled in the previous town I worked in, I would have gone the whole hog. I wouldn't put panels on the roof though, to many house fires with them causing problems for Fire Fighters. It's a shame VAG didn't bring a diesel option on the Karoq, I would have easily gone for that option instead of the EA888 in my Sportline.

To "EVERYBODY" - After "Copy"=>"Paste" technical information that @JORDITO give us in www . google . com in the first few results is the official web site of "Witson" brand. Check it.

Another upgrades for the project -racingline big brake kit. Lightweight as can be. Less than the original set intended. - baf motorsport K brace I was searching briskoda, and some user had that intalled. So, went for it. I pretend not to use the rear seat as I did in the former “track” fabia. As soon as I removed the seats, it felt more sloopy on corners so, K brace it. And well, R8 coil packs Used the Beru ones instead of NGK and went straight to the dyno. No misfires, aaaaaaand! More power. Previous Dyno run 169 whp stock 193 whp with revo stage 1 202 whp with the R8 coils Also adapter in progress, a friend almost hit me when I said that needed one. He’s designing it for me free of charge IMG_0115.MP4

Here are is the only pic I have yet. Just got the wheels 3 day's ago. KW 30mm lowering springs for audi a3 Bola B10 18x8 wheels

More urq pr0n

KN HP3001 -extra large size in place. Oil cooler removed and emptied

What about my predicament! My TT has a CD/DVD but only single player and even worse than that for the sat nav you have to leave the disc in so can't play a CD at the same time! Fortunately, even though I have a decent Hi Fi in the house and play CDs I'm happy with the quality of music copied from CD to USB when I'm driving, phew! The XC40 doesn't even have a CD/DVD! Chris

OK, so the conclusion seems to be, that there are two ways to answer a phonecall and hang up again. Either by going through a complicated series of clicks and sub-menus on the wheel. Or by taking your eyes of the road and reach over to touch the info-screen. Compared to my old Fabia, where I could just use a dedicated button on the wheel. That must be that thing they call progress......

As I already wrote it's not about brute power but how to deliver it to the ground,smothness,go kart like drivetrain,monster breaking force etc. Blue colour is not tuning that I mentioned,only touch of class, but main thing is there are silicone hoses,ss braided hoses and top quality AN fittings. As for breaking 300hp it broke it already. Look at the dyno chart. 304 if I remember correctly👍👍. Much more power is usless for 0-100kmh, only after 100kmh it make sense so no faster startups With FWD and 500hp...but aiming to do that via forged stroker, CNCed head,and forged valvetrain,G25-550....

Hi, After having wet carpets and some advice from the forums, I thought I'd post this so that others might solve their problems. 1st: Water in the passenger footwell It was a blocked sunroof gutter. Poured some water in the sunroof surround and it didn't come out of the rubber nipple in the passenger door hinge area. Wobbled and poked the nipple (oh er) and it cleared. 2nd: Water in the drivers footwell There is a small hole in the wing area of the "scuttle panel" (the area in-between the windscreen and the bonnet). This allows the water to run down the inner wheel-arch and onto the ground. Clearing this didn't solve the problem. Removed the inner wheel-arch to reveal about 3 pints of mud blocking the path of this drain. Clearing this didn't solve the problem. Checked the door surround seal (fine) Checked for water leaking from the inside of the door to the body (fine) After much head scratching I looked at some online exploded diagrams of the windscreen area. I looked at the wipers and saw that under the wiper arm there should be a seal and then another domed seal under that. I was missing the upper seals. (item 4). I replaced these and it's been fine.

I have a Kamiq but I assume the system is much the same. My ipod touch wouldn't connect to the car but I bought a double-ended USB stick from Argos USB-c one end and older connection for PC other end. I copied itunes straight onto the stick and it works perfectly. Hope that helps.

Yeah it’s a S2000 bonnet direct from Skoda. Not cheap and you need to go through an application process which goes to the head of Skoda motorsport to decide if they want to sell to you or not too

Took delivery of my brand new 21 plate TSI 1.5 SL last weekend after a short wait (it was already "at the port" and built) and am loving it so far. 400 miles in after a great roadtrip across the country last week from home in the east of Scotland to the west and enjoying the ride, comfort, spec, everything really! Had the transit tyre pressure issue, hadn't been reduced at the dealers but realised immediately and let out air to the recommended PSI. They were at 52, should be around 34! Notified dealer and told them it might not be a big deal for me as I keep an eye on things but could be potentially hazardous (or uncomfortable at least) for those who will assume all is well when they drive off the forecourt and not bother checking. No torch on the MY21 model as noted elsewhere but all good otherwise, quite liking the new steering wheel with the missing spoke. Quartz Grey is lovely, glad I chose it over business grey in the end .

I'm a fully paid up member of the rejection club and I know that I'd been talking with Skoda UK since October 20. They'd told me that it was being worked on by Skoda factory. Like Gax, I had to take a break from the forum for the sake of my sanity. None of those involved have covered themselves in glory here. I've got my rejection but have a complaint in with both the Motor Ombudsman (garage) and Financial Ombudsman (VWFS). Aside from the sheer length of time it took to resolve the many problems with the car, I'm out of pocket for the interest I've paid on the agreement and the service plan has yet to be refunded. Oh, and I know for a fact that my car has been sold. Over the period of 2 days, I received a couple of letters telling me that the car was no longer mine (DVLA) and a part refund of VED. I also got an email from Skoda Connect saying thaat the car was no longer registered to me. If I see the new owner round and about, I'll be sure to try to give them a heads-up

Hi, hopefully the pictures and links will explain this simple mod. It takes about 10 minutes excluding glue drying time. The springs bought are 16mm od, 8mm id and 50mm long if you want to use washers or 55mm if you dont. They need to compress by about about a third (ie from 55mm down to 35mm). The washers are 16mm od, 8mm id, 2mm thick. My Gas struts could support the boot open but were worn so I replaced them anyway. Here are the links I used: Heavy Load Duty Compression Die Spring, 8-18mm Diameter & Up To 55mm Long JIS https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223584768462?hash=item340eb0d1ce:g:5O0AAOSwLxBdKLk7 2X TAILGATE BOOT GAS STRUTS FOR SKODA OCTAVIA MK2 COMBI 04-13 ESTATE 1Z9827550 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=2+x+tailgate+boot+gas+struts+for+skoda+octavia+mk2+combi+04+13+estate+1+z+9827550&_blrs=spell_check Metric M8 plastic washers 8mm ID 16mm OD 2mm pack of four https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=Metric+M8+plastic+washers+8mm+ID+16mm+OD+2mm+pack+of+four&_sacat=0 20210512_164832.mp4

I have an old RNS310 that has 64gb of music in mp3 format that works well enough in an S spec car with OEM speakers! ... anyway, shouldn't most of our attention be on the road ahead ?

Hello PoloPaul, All I can say is maybe you should get in touch with the dealer and demand that they address the problem. It hasn't bothered me enough to get in touch with the dealer about the occasional rattling. So many other issues that I have wanted resolving first. Luckily my dealership here in Finland has been extremely forthcoming with the issues. Any issue at all and they have investigated it thoroughly and fixed it to the best of their abilities. It's just these constant software / electrical issues that keep popping up that drive me up the wall that are up to Skoda to fix. Despite the problems I love the car though. Such a joy to drive.

I understand fully. But then you drop to S and you are down at least one gear, maybe 2 and you are still in Auto but in S. If you need a lower gear you need to go to D then knock across to M. Exactly as meant to, great on back roads, point and shoot, decelerate off the accelerator. It is a Semi Automatic hence the S-A. Knowing across to M has you in the same gear, then you can drop as you might want or need, 7 to 6 to 5. Personally i never do the upshifts in 'M' i knock back to D for that and the gear shifts are not having it revving high in the gears. That is the beauty of the DQ200 DSG and revvy engines, you use the box as it suits you best and according to which engine it is fitted to.