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After owning a Karoq for 3 years I got fed up looking for a used Karoq so my dealer had a Superb estate sport plus and I couldn’t resist!

It will be OK to drive. That part is a long way away from the auxiliary belt tensioner and looks to be at the rear of the A/C pump. Looking on the bright side you now are the proud owner of your own personal hole in the ozone layer

The word everyone should be using is adaptive. Not intelligent, not learning. Its easy enough to write adaptive code, whether it acheives what you or someone else expects is a matter of opinion.

So they don't really learn your driving style. More that they react to your driving style. There are certain values on the ECU that are fixed that the car references the sensor values to. And there are other values that it learns and adapts the fueling etc to. But these values aren't really anything to do with driving style. And as for the DSG, that is just a feature of the gearbox. You can reset it but this just resets the learned values. It's not your driving style it's learned. It learns the clutch biting points, clutch pressures, oil pressures etc.

Good afternoon All, New owner here based in aberdeenshire ,scotland of a mk3.5 Octavia VRS estate in Meteor gray. Comes with a few goodies but only had it 2 weeks so still getting to grips with it. Will be retro fitting a reversing camera

well its ****ing rain again, but i got out and back before it started. horrible out now. anyhoo..... had a hard pedal up the hill, amazing what a week off hill climbing does! legs were nuked at the top. then i turned west up the rear peak and across to the playground - woods. stayed off the firebreaks though, theyll just be a swamp likely to throw me into a tree.. but i tagged on some extra trail distance, found the other way out, and got a nice highspeed run down the road toward home. if it wasnt wet i couldve gone a bit faster down it, but when any given puddle could be a massive pothole.... i may be leaving my overjacket at home next morning though, or just bringing it around my waist in case i get cold, it was bloody sweaty today!

it's a quick vid I made after fitting mine, I've not got any money yet, nor do I really expect some random aliexpress chinese seller to send me money.. I was aware of the lack of visual confirmation from inside the vehicle, but not enough of an issue for me to make me wait in the hope of a better one can't find anyone making that 'perfect' version yet. here you can see the blue animation when you open the car. Can't decide whether it's cool or naff product

Another small but satisfying job done on the Fireblade this Morning, Something which bugged me from the day I purchased the Bike was the Front Casing on the Instrument Cluster. At some point in the Bikes lifetime I can only presume a Fluid of some sort has been spilled onto the Clear Acrylic Part which you view the Speedo/Rev Counter through and unfortunately it has left behind some marks which would not polish out. I noticed it when I purchased the Bike but as I got some money off the asking price and the fact that the rest of the Bike was in superb condition for its age I didn't worry about it too much and put it on the list of To-Do's. A quick glance on Fowlers Parts Website shows a full schematic breakdown of my Bike in Parts with the associated Part Numbers and availability for each item (Right down to every Nut & Bolt) I saw that the Instrument Cluster came in multiple parts but that the Front Piece was detachable and could be purchased on its own. The price for this part was £150 though which is a bit steep, Decided to stick the part number into Ebay and a couple came up in the States and also quite a few Chinese non Genuine offerings but I didn't like the idea of that. Anyway I kept looking and on Saturday and Brand New Genuine Honda item came up for £60 in the Box, I didn't mess about and bought it straight away. A quick search on the Fireblade owners group showed a guide on how to remove the Speedo from my Model of Bike which someone had done to replace some of the Bulbs within the Cluster, This guide to be honest looked very long winded and involved removing the Fairings, Front Nose Cone and took about 2 Hours. Anyway the Part arrived this Morning so I had a look at what was involved, I quickly realised I didn't need to remove any of the fairings at all! Unbolted the Mirrors, Removed the 6 x Screws that secure the Front Windscreen and then with the Steering on Full Lock and there are 2 x Securing Bolts that go through the Frame to hold the Mounting Bracket that the Speedo sits on. Undo these Bolts, Remove the Wiring Harness multiplug from the back of the Cluster and the entire Bracket with the Cluster can be removed in One piece. Then I simply removed the Cluster from the Bracket off the Bike and Split the Speedo to fit the New Front Piece. 45 Mins in total and job done Original Casing, Marks can be seen... Cluster removed from Bike, New Genuine Honda Casing... New Front Cover fitted, Old item below... Back on the Bike, All working as it should...

Managed to finally put my leg over the Bike and got out last Week for the first ride! It had been Sunny and the Roads had dried out the Day before but I knew I wouldn't get out for too long as more heavy Rain was forecast at Lunchtime, I literally got back into the Garage and 10 Mins later the first clap of Thunder was heard! First calling point was my nearest Shell Petrol Station to fill up with some V-Power, Took it steady and kept the ride urban for the first 10-15 Miles as I was mindful of the New Front Brake Pads I had fitted needed bedding in a bit and they don't exactly inspire confidence during this period. Also I have never ridden one of these so the entire Bike feels very different from the last couple I have owned, It has quite an aggressive seating position with high foot pegs and low bars...Typically Superbike. Low Speed they can be quite clumber some and hard work but they are not really built for 30MPH riding First thing I noticed within Minutes of riding was how light and agile the Bike felt, Literally tips itself into a corner and is as stable as you like. Also as its a bit more old school the Throttle actually has a Cable instead of the Fly-by-Wire that my BMW had so you feel instantly more connected to Throttle inputs and the Engine responds with every small input you ask for. Once I was a bit more settled on the Bike after around 30 Mins of riding I headed out to a few decent twisty riding roads which I know pretty well and picked up a bit of pace, Think I was in 3rd Gear and gave it the beans for the first time to pass a couple of Cars and I was impressed with just how tractable the Motor was even at low RPM. Sounds superb too with the Akrapovic Exhaust. It doesn't have that explosive instant hit that the BMW S1000R had but the thing with older Bikes from this era is that they are very turbine like in the Power Delivery and the Gearing is considerably higher on the Fireblade so 3rd Gear on this is equivalent to 4th Gear on the BMW. I don't want to make out like the Fireblade is a slouch, Its far from it! I will admit coming from the Modified Hayabusa in 2020 and then a virtually brand new state of the art BMW S1000R Sport earlier this Year I didn't expect too much from a 15 Year old Fireblade but I was silly to think that because in reality it is still a 180MPH machine that will do a 10 Second 1/4 Mile and hit 100MPH in 5 Seconds from a standstill. I should no better as I had a 1999 Fireblade a couple of Years back which was a superb machine even today. You quickly realise though that there's no ABS, No Rider Aids, No Electronics to get you out of the **** and you are going get out of this Bike what you put into it. This all adds to the experience though and I think it will take a few more rides to get to know it better before I can get the best out of it. Am I glad I bought One, Yes absolutely! Its a Bike I have always loved the look of and promised myself I would own one if the right example came up. I would still like to get a second Bike though so I have a bit of choice and it will keep the Mileage down on the Fireblade too but nothing has come up as yet. I will keep you all posted though.

Is this useful ? Yeti Vacuum.pdf

And here she is

A few photos from Rufford Park this evening

Cupra EV coming 2022 better than ID3?

The free upgrade to the 20" seems to be just UK based when the 19" appears to be unavailable, in France not so 20" is extra. Offers and configurator seem very country based. In France 1 March pricelist tweaks raised extra prices a tad and also requited for example high end interiors before you could order the HUD option (I am a gadget man, that likes his toys) No matter my order Feb 20 is in and build scheduled for week 21.

It is! Like many things in life the devil is in the details. The auto industry learnt a big lesson from the Boeing 737 max disasters. No longer can they be allowed to self regulate, which is where autonomy was headed!

So are you suggesting that you feel it may be the incorrect spring as well'? Also, how could I measure in mm how much the suspension sags please? They are surely far to smaller increments without specialist equipment?

These are still adaptive / passive systems though. None of them will assume any form of direct control over the vehicle, you operate the device in 2 dimensions as we always have done, velocity and direction. They merely change the efficiency of the device. I think the confusion with "learning" is the inherent concept of time. The engine will "learn" that is has a new fuel rating within milliseconds of it appearing in the cylinders, so the myth of needing a tank or two of 99 RON for the car to become faster is nonsense.

Our current ŠKODA Karoq is 2 years old in August and we have only done 8000 miles, should be able to get about 5 years out of a set of tyres. So looking at the long game I believe the cost of the tyres are affordable.🤣🤣🤣

@stever750 The guys that were in the planes that crashed into the Twin Towers expected to die, as did the Pilot that crashed into a mountain, but i get the general point.

See xman comment below, adaptive is absolutely the right description. Adaptive though in current architecture from a performance and safety POV is usually measured in ms, and ideally even quicker. Yes, just like humans. Machine learning as a basic principle requires the process to run many many times, with the inherent variations to be registered and accounted within the model. The issue is whether we're prepared to treat a car as a child for example, with all of the issues and compromises that that brings. That's massively oversimplifying it, but it gives a good idea of just how complex autonomous vehicle design is / will be. Arguably the sensational media question about who does an autonomous car kill first in a crash, answer is like the aero sector we design out errors, as the contract with the user psychologically changes significantly. We all get into our cars every day, and knowingly take risks, sometimes ones that we know are potentially lethal. no one ever got onto a commercial airline flight ever expecting to die. Absolutely. My day job involves confirming that the input data, and the output instruction is what you expected, so trying to remove the subjective interpretation.

I went to jack up my estate rear corner the other day and the alarm went off. I hadn't unlocked.

Rmtg ea211 rs is available to be shipped all over the world. I currently have the Jbs hybrid set up so I can't fully advise on how good or bad the Rtmg ones are but I can 100% tell you, you won't have half the hassles you would trying to match up a 1.4 turbo to 1. 2 block

@aubrey brilliant, many thanks

I can see another trip to north wales on the horizon ☺️

I’ll be offering this soon, you would have to have to have the sensors fitted yourself or I would arrange a tyre place local to me to have them fitted as part of the install.

Got an image of your connector? I assume it's this connecter and style: You need to 'unlock' it first. There are two flaps that release, one on each side. I've marked one side up in red and I tend to unlock it using a tiny flatblade and sticking it in around the orange arrow. The pin should slide in with very little effort and 'click' into place Once it's unlocked you should be able to clear our any broken bits too.

Try skoda-parts.com for anything you need.

From what I remember, it was all just clips. If you get a pry tool in behind the trim, you'll start to feel where they are

I do think that you have underplayed the problems with is car. There seems to be an unwritten rule that no one in the media will actually tell the full truth about the considerable issues with this model. VAG seem to hold the sword of Damocles over reviewers (not you especially, at least you do draw some, though not enough, attention to all the issues). The truth of the matter is that it is a car with a great deal of potential, which has been put on sale without being tested properly, that has lots of potential faults that makes the experience of owning, frustrating. Any review should say, 'leave any purchase for another few years until all the issues are properly ironed out. It is a great car potentially, but certainly not at the minute.

U now need to get the "Superb" version from Superskoda.....

Can you place it on here, please - or provide a link to it? I think many of us would find that useful, if only for academic interest.

If it's still a problem, I have a template letter provided by Which Magazine that can be sent to the dealer clearly articulating the two different consumer laws that are applicable. One is more serious than the other in that it brings in trading standards with fines and legal action. Good luck - sorry that you had to take this action. It's always going to be stressful.

Could be a faulty cam sensor, it manifests itself as a fuel delivery code. there was a faulty batch last year.

My car was remapped at 10k miles by JBS Auto Designs in Sheffield. I bought it at 32k and it now has 78k on it with no issues. Pulls like a train and no clutch/DMF issues.

Some rough maths says that 24_000 chargers in the UK is about 1/6 the charger density of the Netherlands (all numbers except areas taken from your cite).

I'm currently walking through the rejection process. The dealer is trying to wiggle out if it but I'm sticking firm. 1.5 DSG mild hybrid, 4 weeks old.

Thanks for reply.from what I understand it's not of any urgent importance ..im sure one will pop up sometime in scrapyard somewhere I'll hold out until then..cheers

The OP said "repaired" & not replaced, frankly anyone that would call using a chocolate block on a safety critical cable in the tight confines of a flexing door loop a "repair" is an eternal optimist. You can find the part number by using 7zap or any of the other sites.

Ok so Audi Q5 40TDI Quattro ‘70 plate as a replacement. Things are looking up! In no rush for a fix now!

1:Yes 2:Yes 3: 4.3 litres (Service fill)

Skoda Assist can get you a suitable car delivered today. If your own car is not ready for the holiday then it will have to be the Hire or Courtesy car you use. Be sure it is a suitable vehicle and do not listen to anything about the Dealership not having a suitable car. VW group have hundreds of cars they own at dealerships or they hire ones.

Just push the door while it’s closed from one side and compare to the other side. If you here some sound, grease should solve it.

Assuming, when you say "I've been told that using just front arb..." you mean something like "just using a stiffer front ARB" (rather than only using a front ARB, and no rear ARB then: The amount of body roll is set by the total roll stiffness, and that total roll stiffness is set by a whole load of things, the (explicit) spring rates (the tyre sidewalls are also springs, which complicates the theory a little, but usually they aren't the biggest factors) and the anti-roll bar rates. If all that you care about is body roll, you could just stiffen roll bars without caring about any of the details and be happy. Usually, however, balance (under/over-steer) is as big a concern as body roll. If you are concerned about balance, then the ARBs at the two ends do opposite things. If you make the rear ARB stiffer, you will make the car oversteer more (or understeer less, if you prefer to look at it that way), whereas if you make the front stiffer, it will understeer more. I don't want to understate the amount of 'art' in this; there are a number of ways of getting it wrong, so you'd really like to go with stuff that people have tested, and not make wild, exaggerated, changes that can cause unpredicted effects, but mild changes are usually safe, but for less roll, a bit more ARB (at either, or both ends) is good, and, if you want to understeer less, you want to stiffen the rear end up a bit more than the front. If you went really wild and stiffened the rear end up massively, the car would probably get a bit uncomfortable and would oversteer quite a bit (and, as Milliken and Milliken point out, at some speed, an oversteering car, becomes undrivable, and while that probably is quite a high speed, you want to stay well away from that). If you run one end super-stiff, you can even reduce the grip (unless you get tricksy with the dampers) because the stiff end starts to patter wide on uneven surfaces.

Rate of change I could buy into, but not the optimal mapping for lambda 1 closed loop control. But then the ECU is already programmed to react to the rate of change of the control inputs from the vehicle controls. Emissions control will always over-ride fast control inputs. We can agree that the assertion "Modern cars learn your driving style and then it's fixed!" is bull****

Ignorance - the product knowledge of most car sales people is verging on zero. Modern cars DO learn your driving style, BUT they keep learning it because we don't always drive like a Granny or always drive like Ayrton Senna so they keep adapting to how you've been driving recently it's not 'set in stone' over the first 500-1000 miles.

I did replace the badge but its not the same colour (race blue) as the car so might spray it on the car !!!

Changed slightly since this picture added a maxton design V1 kit 👌

Depending by the tile format you choose (1x1, 2x2), the home screen change format. YOu cannot add a third tile becase the 2 tile present on the left are already the minimum size. The toal size of the screen is 3x2, so you can use only or 6 tile or 3 tile. In mine for example I have set the 2x2 tiel with the map on the left and the other 2 tiles on the right. You can use the widget only oncem so if you use the phone widget in the home screen you cannot use it anymore (eg, in the second screen). When you fill the second screen with al widget, the home button will show the first page. Until that you have to scroll the page to show the home page. This is what I understand from the strange logic of this system.

Not taken many nice ones yet... but here’s one to show her off... got to admit, I’m loving this colour!