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Had a couple of days in the Peak District (near Cressbrook) so went for a few walks.

Brim to Brim long term is all that counts.

Personally I think it’s only the dealers who are winning. Used car prices are only strong if you can offer the finance and a warranty to get as close to that new car experience as you can. If you own a nearly new car you are in a strong position to change it early and get a deal on a new car but if you are thinking of a private sale I would suggest the market is too small to be worth the time it would take to find one of the very few buyers with £18-20k to spend on a ‘normal’ car in either cash or an unsecured loan and are willing to buy privately with the lower amount of protection that comes with.

Start up and drive off immediately. Switch the MFD to the Oil Temperature setting. Drive the car progressively harder and once it hits an oil temperature of 90 deg C, drive it like you stole it.

Fabia III 1.2 TSI Petrol. Thanks, AG Falco

Or spray your windscreen and have their auto wipers come on, it is safer than brake testing them.

I was a little bit further up the same valley last weekend too.

Or do what I do. Drive even slower

The figure I had gotten from the Arnold Clark online value my car, was exactly what my local dealer offered last week for my Kodiaq against a new Kodiaq. Its also easy to get a settlement figure for your PCP from Skoda/ VW finance

The last of the non-opf petrol cars are fetching a bit of a premium at the moment, especially the ones that are likely to receive a tuning. I have seen it on Audi, VW, BMW and Merc and I have no doubt Skoda models will see the same thing. Lots of people have lost lives and livelihoods with this pandemic but conversely there are lots with unspent cash in their pocket and time on their hands to think and search for last of the best cars.

@whitevxA lot of the brands discussed are not available in bricks and mortar stores in the UK either, we have to order online or from specialist detailing suppliers. I use stuff from all over the world: Chemical Guys, Poor Boys and Collinite are American, Koch Chemie and Scholl are German, from Britain I have Meguiars, Autoglym, Dodo Juice, GTechniq, Autofinesse and CarPro. In terms of products it all depends how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go! Polish, protect and shine really needs two products for best results. I assume you are applying by hand, so my recommendation would be an All in One (AIO): Autoglym's Super Resin Polish. This isn't an abrasive polish, more of a "glaze" meaning it fills fine marks to achieve a smooth finish and shine enhancement, rather than removing a thin layer of top coat paint. It easily achieves nice results by hand although after a few months the fillers will wash out and it will need treating again, if you want it to last longer top with a durable sealant or wax and you'll probably see 6 months longevity from it. Shake well before use, apply 3 skittle sized blobs on a firm foam pad and then work in small circles over an area about the size of half a door. Wait until dry to a haze, buff off the residue with a quality microfibre (not the crap they sell in supermarkets on the cheap, something like 350+ gsm Korean edgeless plush microfibre). If it gets a bit dusty coming off then dampen with a fine water mist. And don't get it on plastic trim or rubber as it's a pig to get out! Autofinesse Tripple is worth looking into too, it's a similar product AG SRP and some prefer it but could be harder to obtain down under. Autobrite Cherry Glaze is magic stuff, smells lovely(!), fills excellently and gives everything a warm glow but the longevity is rubbish, it lasts about a month outdoors if you don't top it with something. Probably an online order job in Aus too. If you prefer permanent correction of minor defects and are willing to put in the elbow grease, Gtechniq Nano P1 is one of the most effective by hand but it's long, slow and hard work. There's no protection layer at all with this as it's purely fine abrasives, so you must top it with something. When cutting to correct you'll want a good firm foam pad, otherwise all the rubbing is for naught. If you're happy to do a two stage process there's loads of easy "spray on, wipe off" waxes and sealants that can give a few months protection and a bit of shine but they're not going to hide any scratches so you would need one of the above polishes first. Think of this as an optional second step to make your work last longer: TAC Moonlight, Gtechniq C2v3, Gyeon Wet Coat or Kamikaze Overcoat are all hardy examples of the spray ceramic breed Very easy to apply, generally misiting a couple of sprays onto a panel, spread around with one microfibre and remove excess with a second microfibre almost immediately; some are recommended to go onto a car that is damp after washing or be rinsed off immediately so do check the instructions. Waxes, sealants etc generally don't bond well to SiO2 coatings, so don't waste your time topping these with anything other than top-up sprays of the same chemical after a few washes. Collinite 845 is a hybrid liquid wax that I've sworn by for years, it lasts 3-6 months and leaves a lovely waxy glow on darker colours. It's more work to apply then the spray stuff as it has to be wiped on with soft foam then buffed off after a quick cure and I do two coats. If using ensure you warm the bottle first and shake very well, then 4 penny size blobs is enough to do a whole door, you want it on really thin otherwise it's awkward to remove later. Whatever you polish with, ensure the car is as clean as possible first because you're going to be rubbing all it all over and don't want to be dragging dirt across and creating scratches. One of the biggest things you can do to protect your car's finish is wash it carefully: that means spraying an All Purpose Cleaner (APC) on the lower areas to loosen as much dirt as possible, pressure washing thoroughly, then using a well lubricated shampoo with a deep pile or chenille noodle washmitt. Under no circumstances should a sponge go near your paint! And for drying afterwards, you will want a big plush microfibre, no old bath towels or chamois leathers! Poor wash technique imparts many fine scratches (swirls) that really dull the finish shine over time.

As Varaderoguy says that sounds like a leaking gasket/seal on the turbo - not a scheduled service item. Is the vehicle still under any sort of warranty? They are really chancing it on the prices on the plugs and pollen filter, so probably doing the same on the oil leak.

We buy huge bags of bird seed, but the robins always sift out the pink bits! Also came across a few mice recently. I have never noticed these before, but there appears to be mouse holes appearing everywhere. Also a few pics from a recent visit to Nostel Priory

Why should a diesel be different to a petrol re warm-up? Oil still has to get around the engine. I just start the car up, put the seat belt on, get comfortable then go. I don’t think letting either engine idle does anything except waste fuel. But see my sig below...

I did a good long ride this morning near home (before it got really hot or rainy) and the temp up in the 20's is much more noticeable than when riding near the coast where it might be hotter but with a sea breeze. Pretty empty roads with no tractors or any other cyclists about and only the very odd car or van. Plenty dry tracks about for now.

The guage may say 90°c but sitting at idle from a cold start without driving in winter the actual coolant temperature sure wont be. But hey if thats what makes someone feel safe then thats their look out, by spring they should be safe to leave their driveway but they will have had to fill the tank a few times while waiting. The later CR engines with the achilles heel waterpump sleeve warm up a lot quicker but a PD is really slow, on a cold day driven gently mine would take at least 5 miles and often require an uphill drive to get to 90°c on the guage which was not a real 90°c but as hot as the coolant was going to get.

I would say that your local Skoda dealer is taking the Pi**. Firstly, I have have a set of sparkplug for the TSI engines - that only cost me 50UKP (about 60euros), so I'm not entirely sure how that equates to 177.52 euros. Pollen Filter is NOT 71.90 euros - its more like 20euros (as it takes me 2 minutes to change a pollen filter and I'm not a training VAG engineer, although I'm coming to the conclusion that I know more than some technicians these days). WHT000729A Hex Socket Bolt Screw Self Locking M8x20 - some hex screws. WHT001386 is a turbo charger inlet seal WHT003247 is a intercooler turbo seal 04E145853 is a retainer clip This all sounds like an oil leak from a turbo, but I'm scratching my head on why you are paying for the work on the turbo (unless you car is out of warranty). To compare prices, try heading down to your local VW dealer and ask to see the master technician and see what they quote to do the work.....your car after all is just a VW Golf in different clothing! :-)

I rejected my Silver estate SEL FE a month ago. There was so much to admire about the car but the technological glitches served to erode my confidence in the car. The relief experienced after the process was completed was significant. If someone is content to live with the glitches, pending an inevitable solution, great. If not, don't hesitate to enact the rejection process. In my opinion, life is too short to waste the time that so many users have been forced to endure.

The best thing is to start the car, let it idle for a few seconds and then drive immediately off but driving gently until it's warmed up. Leaving a car idling for long periods actually increases wear and takes a long long time to warm up especially on a diesel. In fact a diesel is likely never able to get up to temperature by just idling.

Superchips +55 bhp make it a bit more fun, and help the local economy with tyre and petrol spending.

And it is surprising how lightly you need to press the accelerator to override the AI; the indicator light in the Virtual Cockpit changes colour when on ‘manual override’.

ah lovely. finally got out!!! decent enough trip. sweaty and warm, couple of still wet patches of ground and fog up the top. but by god it was good to get out after an extended enforced break!

No, nothing that responsible.

THIS THREAD IS NOT A “CAN ANYBODY IN **** HELP” THREAD For those of you needing some help from a VCDS owner and are not too hot on geography, I have compiled a VCDS Owners Map with owners rough location, so it should be easier to find someone local to you. RED markers are Moderators / Admin PINK Honoury, GREEN Freedom members, PURPLE are Briskoda sponsors BLUE markers are std Briskoda members. Most of the members in RED PINK & GREEN will tend to be more frequent users of the forum and VCDS, however there are also some std BLUE members who are a dab hand with VCDS, As a sponsor the PURPLE markers are likely to have a fixed price scheme for coding and scans. It is always a good idea to look at the owners profile to see if they are still active on here before sending them a PM (Personal Message), if they have not visited the forum for several months then it is unlikely they will read your PM. However there are also a couple of Freedom members who have not visited Briskoda for several months, this is why it is important to see when they were last online. As you can see the above owner will unlikely reply to you since he has not logged onto Briskoda for nearly 20 months.

As there seems to be a lot of people asking questions about this lately, I thought I'd put together a quick guide showing how I fitted my reverse camera to a facelift VRS hatchback. They way that i've fitted this will apply to most models, with the key differences being the size of handle (based upon car model year) and whether hatch or estate (but this is just inside trim differences), there may also be wiring loom differences for earlier cars or none VRS models. I've benefited from info from these forums so hopefully this will be useful to others. I am by no means an expert & I won't be able to answer all of your questions, hopefully others will chip in and can add other info as well. First of all, this is the camera that I ordered for my MY 2017 VRS (Camera A/Handle A): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000230897829.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.40694c4dTEPT93 (link may no longer be valid when you read this so screenshot below) No programming is required for this camera and it supports dynamic reverse guidelines Tools: Trim removal tools would be useful, but otherwise plastic tool that won't mark your car, or screwdrivers or similar with masking tape over the end. A T20 torx head tool is required if you have a hatchback to remove the pulldown boot strap Cable rods are very useful, I couldn't have fitted through the roof lining without. Stereo removal tools unless they come with your camera kit Cable route - I went with an OEM route for my cabling, following existing cables through the roofliner and out to the back as show by the red line below. The camera: The first thing that I did was to check that the boot release switch was working on the new unit - there's no way you want to wire this in and find it is faulty. You'll need to start removing the boot trim to access it. Remove the plastic clips from the lower boot trim- this consists of a few plastic clips which easily pop out with trim remover/screwdriver. There are 8 of these on the hatchback. After that start removing the upper plastic trim, this simply requires forces to release the metal clips. You don't need to remove all of this for now, but it will all need to come off later Remove the lower upholstered trim covering the tailgate. More metal clips - work your way around. You'll also need to remove the pull down strap with the T20 torx head. When this is down you should be able to drop the boot liner which will give access to the boot release handle. This can be awkward to remove, but can be done by pushing in the clip on one on the ends whilst also pushing down on the handle from the inside (ignore the clips along its length) - it should then pop out. Repeat for the other side. Unplug the harness and plug the new handle in - check the release switch works. You can either now push the new handle in until it clips, or leave it out to test the video connection later before fitting. To wire it in Remove the glovebox (open, rock left to right whilst pulling up & you'll hear the bottom clips release. Raise the glovebox lid up and inside the housing and reach in and remove the dampening on the left hand side) Use the stereo release keys to release the multimedia unit. The kit used here comes with a replacement harness that sits between the original one and the media unit & includes the video feed cable. Some people have removed the upper glovebox section to provide more access, be careful not to unplug the airbag connector if you do this. This can be fiddly, but I found the best way was to lie on my back with my head in footwell looking up at the unit from underneath. With the media unit slid fowards this gives access to the harness. It's the large one at the bottom and there is a locking connecting that needs to be pushed backwards to release. Check how it works on your replacement harness. Unplug old harness and plug it in to one end of the new one, push the harness in to the void and plug the new connector block in to the media unit. This took me a while to get it all to fit in. When done you can now test the video feed to the rear camera before your start wiring it in permanently. I took the camera cable over the top of the fusebox cage & out through the side panel I then ran the cable up the A Pillar to the roof lining and all the way to the end. Cable rods were really useful at this point, especially to get around the B pillar , and to go from the end of the roof liner through the cable exit point behind the rubber trunking where the original boot cables are. You can also run the cable in the trim above the sill and work your way back up to the roof lining on the C pillar. When you get to the end of the roof lining you'll need to unclip the rubber gator at the top of the boot so you can get the cable out of the roof liner and in to the boot via this gator. If you install the same way as me you only need to peel the roof liner down a few cm, being careful not to deform or damage it and you'll see the OEM cables behind. Once you've got the cable this far it's a case of feeding it through the rubber gator, up the side of the boot and over to the handle; connect the video cable and tidying up any spare cable. Everything should now be up and running. Retrace your steps to refit your trim. You now have a fully working reverse camera, activated when reverse is selected and with dynamic guidelines. The parking sensor guide now shifts to the left of the screen the same as an OEM reverse camera. I will come back and re-edit this tomorrow and resize pics as it's getting late. I'll tidy up any errors as I see them so please don't jump on me straight away!

We have leased a 1.0 110 manual monte carlo in white. Have had it two weeks and is very nice. Came with a spare wheel which is something every car should have IMHO. After having climate control on my MKII octavia for the past 15 years, still getting use to the manual air con again, definitely not as nice but it's something I will be able to live with. I know this might sound odd but having the rear view mirror without the auto dimming feature is bloody stingy on a car like this. That said though, overall, enjoying it so far. The engine is so much better than I thought it would be and the ride and handling is decent on the 18 inch wheels.

It does not need topping

I would love to keep my Skoda as its a great car but in hindsight I wish I'd have kept my Superb .....however Kate is talking to the dealership to review a refund (not holding my breath) if its not viable financially and I would lose money I guess I'll have to wait for the update which when I enquired nobody seems to know what the update will actually resolve .Having had the auto braking come on again twice in the past two days I have assumed that the sensors are picking up parked car on the opposite side of the road on a tight bend ,presumably thi King its directly in front of me .Let's wait and see .

They are telling me the IV is fixed. Oil& filter at 12months/X Miles. I think X is actually 15000km which works out at 9320 Miles. (VW do quote 9300) but people colloquially say 10K miles. Even when not running on electric, the IV does cut in and out much more than a regular ICE only car so I presume this is the reason for the restriction on variable service.

I didn’t take a pic, but yesterday on a 24-mile trip on busy motorway, and then to central Wolverhampton, mine (1.4 litre petrol DSG) read 45.8 mpg.

It just take considerably longer to get up to temperature if you leave the car to idle. I timed it once - typical Scottish Day - 10C - took 30 mins for the car to get up to temperature on idle.

From my perspective (and I own 2 x TDI184 cars - a Scout and a VRS) - I turn on the engines and wait about 60 seconds prior to departing. That lets the oil get to all the places it needs. I have 300 yards of short backroad and then I am onto fast 60mph road. Its important that I let the engine oil get warm before I get to the main road. Even when I am accelrating away, I do try to make sure that I do not progress too quickly up to speed until the engine is warm. The golden rule is that until your car reaches 90C (by the coolant temperature), you should avoid reving the car past 3000rpm. However, you will also find that the car has limitations on performance (to protect itself) until the engine oil gets warm enough (things like limiting the use of the turbo-actuator to engage the turbo) until the car is warm.

My my18 1.4tsi manual Superb updates the range left as soon as I refill the tank, even before moving away from the pump. The estimated range is very much based on fuel tank capacity and the average consumption since last refill. Here is my recent consumption, all long motorway trips sat at legal limit with occasional road works and snarl ups. Showing a total range of over 900 miles, but then I have a 75 litre tank fitted for some inexplicable reason. Its an option in some countries, but not in the UK, they must have run out of the standard 66 litre tanks when they built mine!

Well, a Skoda is "simply more clever" than that, and bases its calculations on how it's been driven over the last tankful.

I usually get 35.3 from my RS in mostly town driving...don't want to know what it'd be like if I had the new petrol one. Best I've seen on a road trip is about 41.

With any diesel I have always let it idle for about 30 seconds before driving off. That way it allows the oil to get around the engine and my dsg to get up to pressure. The same for when stopping. I allow it to run for 30 seconds to allow the turbocharger internals to slow spinning.

I see. Hope you get the info you need.

Far too much for plugs and filter for a start. Quality OEM pollen filters retail at less than £15 and only take 5-10 mins to change. Never seen a scheduled servicing requirement on the turbo-chargers - could it be possible they are extracting the urine?

It is fair to say that @Gax and I have had very different experiences dealing with Skoda UK (Kate Laws). Whilst I’m in the frustrating position of having my car sat at the dealer since mid-April, conversations with Skoda UK (and the dealer) have, on the whole, been positive, constructive and reassuring. All of this to do with the kph/mph issue in my case; other cars are off the road for this and other s/ware issues. He’s absolutely right, your contract is with the Dealer not Skoda UK so it’s the Dealer you should pursue for any rejection. As for the update scheduled for this week, I guess there is some interpretation of the wording used. When I reported that I’d been told the update was due for release this week it is/was easy to assume that was release to the customer vehicle - whereas it may be ‘release from the factory’, as in sign-off by the test team or whatever authority needs to release it; how long it then takes to get to nation distributors and the Dealers is open to speculation too (but ought to be pretty quick I like to think). Also, what is meant by this week? I may have, mentioned in another thread, my experience of software developers where I used to work was that ‘this week’ did not mean 0900hrs Monday - it was more like 1700hrs Friday (or even the Sunday after then). I am one of those who are hanging on in there awaiting the fix to come through (not sure how many there of us left now!); and in the meantime I am driving a loan Skoda Octavia Mk4 which is absolutely trouble free - which is giving me the encouragement that mine will, one day, be fixed. The loan car doesn’t have all the gizmos I paid for on my car, but I am enjoying the experience of learning the subtleties of driving a DSG for an extended period after 40+ years of manual ‘box motoring. As a result I am quite chilled about the whole thing, though I admit that wasn’t always the case! A few weeks back when there was still no clarity of the extent/scope of the problems, hence no planned date for an update - that was a low point for me, and from what I read, for many others here too. @Kendoddsdadsdogisdead whether you choose to reject or not is clearly your call and I hope my rambling comments prove to be some help to you making up your mind.

I'm not sure, I've not had to deal with that age of AFS slave yet. A quick google is pretty inconclusive About the only mention is here https://www.drive2.ru/b/475582485674066151/ The 'fifth story' suggests there is some kind of parameterision but I've no idea if it's for the AFS master, AFS slave or both...

As @sneal said, outcomes have varied. At least one member had paid for their car outright, and rejected it, and was hit with a deduction from their refund for mileage. I rejected mine on a PCP deal (through Skoda/VW Finance) and they refunded every penny I had paid for the car, despite me having done over 4k in it. Whether the difference was in how the cars were financed, or was it just different dealers being less/more reasonable then the other, I have no idea. You could always reject the car and see what 'offer' they come back to you with. If they want to deduct for wear and tear, then you can make a decision on affordability as you will want a new car. You can always decline their offer and keep the car if it isn't high enough. EDIT: Just to say, when I rejected mine I outlined what I expected from the dealer, namely the refund of my deposit, refund of the upfront services I had paid for, and refund of every payment I had made for the car. They honoured everything I requested. My biggest piece of advice if you wish to reject is reject straight to the dealer in writing, and (if using a finance company) copy them into your email/letter so they are aware. Your contract is with the dealer (as Skoda told me firmly at one stage) so go through them. I personally would not recommend you even bother contacting Skoda UK. The contact point at Skoda (Kate Laws) promised me the world in her first phone call to me, then broke all of her promises by failing to call me at the times she had agreed, and pretending she was on another call every single time I tried to call to speak to her. Just this week on the forum we are seeing her latest piece of PR fluff is turning out to be false. She said people would be receiving their fix via software updates this week and either the updates have not happened or have not worked anyway. In the interests of fairness, there are others on the forum who will have their reasons for advising you keep the car, but the above is reflective of my own experience.

I got one off Amazon recently: HELLA 6PX 012 684-011 sensor, air quality.

Just to add a little to this is that the profile figure is a percentage of the width. Saying 45 isn't ideal really depends on the width. 45 profile on a 235 is much deeper than 45 on 195. So it's not as cut and dry as looking at profile alone.

Yes I find the PDF manual fails to explain a lot of things. This setting is in the “Vehicle” app, under “headlights”.

Leave it alone for the next 100k miles, but keep the oil clean and correct spec.

Mine has arrived in the Port of Tyne, is due to be moved to the dealer this week and may well be ready for collection on Saturday or Sunday!! very exciting.

My garden see's a few nocturnal visitors. I think they may well be four in total.

I've been sat here for a while waiting for the clouds to form a pleasing arrangement ..............

The spring is correct. Your car is a facelifted model though, so the correct damper is 3C0 513 049 CP. If I remember correctly, the BR part was superseded in production by the CP part, so even if you went into the dealer looking for the BR part I think you would probably be given the CP one.

Congratulations, IMO you just invalidated your car warranty also. Granted, one mirror change will not break your engine for example, but you just replaced a by-design electric item with another, from another car. If you get a problem that requires warranty services, you might be on the losing side.