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Just watched the feature race. The team whose driver is always hyper aggressive on lap 1 are seemingly very upset that it didn't go all his way this time. Maybe he shouldn't run the opposition off or break their front wings at turn 1 so often? I spent the whole race willing the Ferrari on, but it wasn't to be, as Charles lost at the very end to a Mansell-like performance from #44.

Picked up my new SE L 2.0TSi today after waiting since February. Has a built in tow bar which is very neat, usb-c in the rear view mirror and wireless charging. It replaces a 2016 diesel SE L of the same colour so many won't notice the difference, but I will!

I just saw Max onboard footage...Hamilton appears inside as Max is turning in, so the Belgian goes full right lock to block/crash him. Very 1997 Schumacher vs Villeneuve.

Not too sure why you’d want to buy from eBay when you can download them for free. Check out the links in my signature.

I would also add that if you also chuck in the Module 44 Driving Mode mod to make it direct drive acceleration instead of time based acceleration then it will be an even smoother drive....just my 5 pence worth. I've just done it on my DQ250 Boxed VRS and it now drives like a dream. I also had done the DSG recalibration (the dealer did it) but now I know how to do it at home!

Finally picked up today… nice drive from Leeds to Leicester… then back in time to get the kids from School. Lovely car, very happy so far.

Or just turn in on someone who's part way up his inside?

Partially correct Ken. Sump sensors were installed on Mk1 Fabias, but not ones sold in the UK market. And they are oil level and temperature sensors, not oil quality sensors. Just service the car every year, or every 10 000 miles or so if that's sooner, and use 505 01 oil which is generally cheaper than 507 00.

Grr Facebook must be doing stuff to discourage using them as image hosts, as they seem to disappear or change URL after a few days. That’ll be why my car smells of petrol after filling up! When petrol bubbles up the filler, which it does a lot, any overflow goes down a hole which I assumed went into the tank. Well no, it’s supposed to go down a vent pipe through a grommet to the road! Except on my car it goes into the boot. DIY shopping. Progress on finding the water leak after a drive in heavy rain. It seems to be getting in via the door seal. Dehumidifier in for now. I’ve been meaning to do this for a long time, made a basic bracket to mount my fire extinguisher to the bolts that hold the mat in place.

An 08 vrs should be EU4 so if its done properly it should pass an MOT OK...

Only use one of these on our alloys… …it’s brilliant, safe and retains its shape. I use a hand shaped short, soft noodle microfibre mitt to clean the face then the EZ to clean the spokes, barrel and inner rim. I use two buckets, Meguirs Gold Class shampoo with warm water in BOTH, so the brush gets a good wash after each quadrant of the wheel. I’ve recently coated the wheels with Race Glaze Signature Series Nano Alloy Wheel Sealant; it’s a bit of a PITA to do it as it’s a wheels off job but boy, it’s made cleaning them so much easier. I tend to clean the car every week including the wheels so the dust doesn’t have a chance to build-up. Of course, white worm has appeared, but only on two of them, but fortunately, it doesn’t seem to’ve got any worse.

that is very kind, but probably too far from me factoring time and cost. much appreciated though!

Mk2 Fabia 3 (A trim) were on the go for a few years before a 3rd Generation Fabia so a Mk3 Fabia. You can not turn back the clock.. The OP was moved because it was in the Hellos and goodbyes' section and not in the Fabia Section for Mk1, 2 or 3.

Thoroughly enjoyed the race... don't usually get to watch live.

@uncle fester I had to check myself, but the reason your thread was moved and for the conformation of model year is that the Fabia 3 started in 2014 so yours should be a a Fabia second generation. If your concern is about the quality of fuel or rubber hose then you are correct to be concerned as for the last 15 years I've had problems with ****-poor rubbish rubber parts and (petrol) hoses, all wrongly or badly made. If you stick to reputable brands from reputable suppliers you should be OK, I'd go with brands like Goodyear and Gates but there others and smaller brands that will be good. Getting lots of different products are currently difficult, I'm waiting for my third choice of tyres as stocks are low or unavailable in time for me.

It is for a given model, https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2014-753/6/615-615060/ 253mm here.

I've got a tyre tree with tyre covers going free if you're in my area? I bought it some years ago to store my winter tyres on, but later switched to using all-season tyres rather than swapping them every 6 months. Let me know if you're interested and I'll dig out some details of it. I think it may be a Westfalia one. Chris

I was trying to start it with a dead battery. Since I was already having ignition or key problems beforehand it never occurred to me that this could be a separate issue caused by the battery. Live and learn...

I think the question you should ask yourself is how safe your existing tyres are now, or going to be when the the weather gets cooler, seeing as how they are so hard. Be a shame for them to fail their first true test in an emergency braking situation in adverse conditions and regret not fitting the new tyres in the shed. By the way I now notice all I did was paraphrase your post so I think you already know the right thing to do. Quite a few years back there was a Briskoda Octavia owner who complained about his OEM Dunlop being noisy and giving very poor ride and handling. As a road warrior he doing some amazing annual mileage and was determined to wear them out. I think he gave up at 96k miles. Obviously his tyres were defective, yours might be too.

The 12 volt battery definitely charges at the same time as the 400 volt battery. I have a voltmeter plugged into the 12 volt boot socket and occasionally monitor the resting voltage, which varies between 12.4 and 12.9 volts, but as soon as I plug in the main charger, the battery voltage increases to above 13 volts. If the 12 volt battery does need charging, then the handbook clearly explains where the charger should be connected. I assume that using a C-Tek trickle charger plugged into the boot socket to charge the battery (as I did with our Karoq during lockdown) is not suitable. However, as I charge the main battery at least three time a week, I should never need to recharge the 12-volt battery.

Bluetooth won't help... Most of the AA apps on XDA suggest they need root, maybe take a look at AAAD on XDA as that doesn't seem to need root although it may require an out-of-date AA version. This isn't something I've done nor intend to try, the links/videos are to give you a starting point and set you off in the right general direction

OP has a 1.4TDi George so an internal oil filter. It's in front of the engine with a black cap you undo (32mm spanner IIRC) Might even be bigger, it's been a while. 36mm also rings a bell.

Talking about positivity Bite the bullet and you'll do a proper job.

I know nothing of these things... Seen earlier mk2s (or late mk1s?) and they have bump strips on the bumpers... That's why I figured it was a face-lift. Makes no odds, really, but it is nice to know what it is.. Ta. In addition. Missus needed a derv, we'd been looking at Saab 93s, Audi A3s and these. This came up within budget. Probably have to have the cambelt done, no record of it in the (minimal) history.

As above, the first thing is to see if your car and phone support Android Auto: Once you've confirmed that, you'll probably need to root your phone and install one of the various AA apps to allow video streaming. How to root will depend on your phone, be warned, there is a risk of losing all your data, security concerns and even the possibly of bricking the phone. XDA is a good place to start, they have sperate sub-forums for most common phone models with rooting guides and there are a few AA streaming options here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/f/android-auto-general.3834/ There is also a video guide to downgrade AA here: Personally, I wouldn't want to be rooting my phone or running old apps but that's my view so it may not match yours. Obviously it's your choice but if you have an older, unused phone, I'd be tempted to use that when you want video streaming rather than your main phone

This may be of interest (Scirocco forum): http://www.sciroccocentral.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8017&start=20#p100448 Rich

Pains me to say, but Kwik fit charge just under £50 to do an Oil & Filter change on a 1,400 cc engine. Dead handy if you can book a time, or a bay is free as you are passing. You can sit in the waiting room, see the fitter put the car on the ramp, open the bonnet and remove the filler cap, lift the ramp, do the drain and filter change and maybe a sump plug or a washer and then top up the oil. You might even catch them putting a dirty finger mark on a filter they wiped clean and never changed, but that is another story that can end with them getting a kick in the groin.

Yep it's definitely pot luck but I think this shower have that main dealer mentality where they try to get you to have jobs done that don't need doing. Another one I forgot was the osf tyre was marked as being on 2.7mm on the service. I checked when I got home and it was no where near the 3mm wear markers. It's still ok now and has passed the mot with an advisory that it was slightly worn on the inside. I've had the tracking done to sort it anyway. I think once you are out of warranty that an honest indy is the way to go

Ill get to it later tonight, as i wont be home that early, on a side note, do please try to connect your phone to the car as is, and see if you can get android auto working, thats a prerisquite to everything else!

You raise some valid points (and personally I missed the "delivered in October" bit - I assumed it was recently delivered -which is shocking I know). However, I take issue with your criticism of this forum. I find it very helpful and I'm sure others do too. It's a shame you don't participate and contribute with your obvious knowledge. Forums are open places where people express their opinions and experience. It's always incumbent upon the reader to make a judgement as to which elements he will take on board. I assume by "Driver assist package" he means "Travel assist". Maybe the OP could clear this up.

Just driven 39 miles and used ACC for 90% of the trip, as I do on most non-urban drives. It’s fantastic, especially with DSG which is brilliant - won’t ever be going back to a manual. I have lane assist off most of the time except on long motorway trips when it’s useful, especially in contraflows. Heated seats are a must (have them on the MKI and had them on the MKII) and ventilated seats (especially in this weather) are a great luxury. I’d also add a heated windscreen on your list, because the gold coating also reduces heat on the dash/steering wheel/seats by 50%.

Someone here might confirm, as i could be wrong and often am, but i think your diesel engine was not given at the time of launch a Variable Servicing code, ie variable / flexible / long life services, 18,000-20,000 miles. This is the Mk2 Fabia Oil Chart. The 1.4 TSI vRS was Fixed Service Intervals by the Code VW / Skoda used until 2011 then the Code changed to allow Variable / Fixed Servicing. With these engines the VW504 00 could be used for Fixed or Variable servicing but if you used VW 502 00 then that had to be Fixed Service / Oil Changes, 9,400 miles / 372 days or sooner. On this chart for the Mk2 Fasbias the Q16 / QG1 code is suitable for Variable / Flexible oil change intervals. The far right codes are Fixed Oil Change Intervals. (These are Petrol Engines not Diesels.) There will be a diesel chart someplace.

If your misfiring, then first port of call with an vRS would be a new set of plugs "Imo", then see how she goes from there, but in truth even if you don't fit new plugs yet, a mobile app that does not tell you which cylinder is misfiring is pretty useless to be fair. Ideally you need a decent diagnostic report with VCDS or similar. PS some of those P codes seem a little odd.

That’s sums it up nicely IMO. 👍 (apart from the Ferrari bit 🤫)

It is safe to buy a new ignition switch and replace the old one. The only inconvenience will be that you'll have 2 keys instead of one for all doors and ignition. The new ignition switch will come with its new key. As for the key chip for the immobilizer, I sadly inform you that Felicia with carburetor has no immobilizer.

>Sorry if this seems pedantic, but it just sounds so wrong to my ears to hear 'PTFE reinforcement'. The PTFE coating reinforces (i.e. strengthens or supports) the cambelt. The reduction in friction allowed by the PTFE coating gives a cooler running belt which lasts longer as a result. Similarly the trioval cam gears reduce belt tension when it isn't required. And the powder metallurgy cam gear production process gives a smoother surface finish without the sharp edges found on hobbed gears. VW have done their development and recommend the service schedule accordingly. As previously mentioned the CHYA/B belts aren't to be associated with the rubber cambelts of say the 70's Ford etc. All that said, if owners wish to choose a different service schedule than specified by the designer/developer/manufacturer, that's their choice and one I respect. But, there's no engineering reason to do so. So all the single parents out there on a very limited motoring budget (myself included) can rest easy knowing the cambelt doesn't need replacing at 60k/5 year intervals as advised by some Skoda dealerships. Respectfully yours...Snaefell (2016 - Citigo Colours currently at 72k miles on the original cambelt).

J B Weld I have used a lot on my motorcycles and never let me down it dos what it says on the package.

Well we already get the visual warning. Trouble is the speed limit shown is often wrong. I frequently get told I'm in a 20mph zone when it's 30mph, or 30mph when it's derestricted.

OK. You realise that the ignition switch is a key operated multi-position switch (off, accessories on (eg radio), ignition on (alternator and oil pressure lights on if engine not running) and a spring-loaded starter on position (starter motor runs while key held in this position). As I understand you, you have no power/function on any of the switched circuits and that pretty much has to be a failure in the ignition switch (not the key barrel, the actual switch), the live feed (usually the centre electrode), or a totally flat battery!

Its 505.01 not 501.01 and definitely not 505.00 507.00 is fine. Do NOT use 508/509 spec oil under any circumstances, it is NOT backward compatible and will probably kill your PD engine. Specs are the important thing for PD engines, the oil must have EP additives to protect the unit injector camlobes. A full synthetic blend is always preferable to semi synthetic, hardly any price difference nowadays and longer life. Stick to known brands.

Hi there, that piece of foam is an impact absorber - helps support the bumper/front structure and absorbs low/mid speed impacts

Yeah, that's a core plug. It should be quite possible to replace it, as long as you can find the right size.

No excrement Sherlock! (except you mis-wrote condenser when you meant evaporator). As I said, the evap sensor is put there so that the evaporator doesn't get too cold* and thus no ice should form. Maybe through design oversight, or sensor inaccuracy, it doesn't work as intended in all conditions. *That sensor is one form of feedback for control of the solenoid valve that governs compressor activity level.

It is as recent as 2018 since it includes VW 508 00 / 509 00

I think it's same same. Back in 2017 when I bought my Superb, they were called Phoenix. At some point, recently, they became Trinity. Not sure why, or what happened. I initially thought Phoenix referred to the Anthracite version, and Trinity was the all Silver version. My theory was..... Phoenix... Trinity....

Cheeky gits. I suspect this particular establishment hasn't got long for this world. Any place that gives a price and then pulls that 'plus vat' crap at point of sale need boycotting. Also, I thought it was banned at least 20 years ago, retail should only ever quote inclusive prices.

I wouldn't put that brush anywhere near my alloys VRS. Good for washing dishes only! If you are serious about keeping them in a good condition and unmarked get some Bilt Hamber auto wheel, a set of Wheel woolies and a microfiber mitt for the wheel faces.

Just cut out template for the boot floor. Used an old piece of thin ply. Cut to approx size of measurements given by Seasider, then scribed the curve on boot lip. A bit of adjusting needed before using a thicker plywood. Thanks Seasider for your help. I update you all with the next stage.