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Originally I planned to get my Tesla Model 3 ceramic coated but I never managed to get Tesla to fix the paintwork to a point where I could get the job done. So today after 4 days with the detailers I picked up my Enyaq after it had been ceramic coated with Gyeone Quartz dual ceramic coating, Very impressed with the result.

I would have liked to be able to ask what the car had been adapted with. Good touch for originality keeping the exhaust. (New V5 issued this month.)

Charging for the 2nd time today after 200 miles, IST time was for 1 hour and took battery to 99%, now will be to 90% and will be an hour and then I might need 40 mins charge in 100 miles to get home with some range free. Cost is zero £ as south of Perth and luckily chargers were available and charge time quick because of scorchio weather. Saved on 8 or 9 gallons of petrol or 15 if I took my Shogun.

U need a trim removal tool, pry carefully from the top, leveraging it upwards. Where the arrow is in the bottom pic. Then do the same from the bottom.

Depends on your point of view. I hardly ever/never use the built in Sat Nav. Waze/Google are streets ahead (pun intended)

Escort and a Praga from this morning at Brands Hatch.

Sticky or worn brake pad. Difficult to explain, but what sometimes seems to happen is the brake pad can move slightly in the calliper, they are not fixed solid so as to allow movement as pad wears, but are held in place by tabs and pins. When you start to reverse you rotate the wheel marginally wedging the pad against the frame in other direction, and because that direction is not used as much tends to get more gunk and rust. It then releases more abruptly causing the jerk at start of reversing. You might be able to clear it by finding some open ground and doing a couple of emergency stops in reverse. Otherwise it is a case of getting brakes checked for free movement.

Can anybody recommend a good product along the lines of Supagard that offers some stain resistance and acts as a water repellent for protecting cloth seats?

And, if that's not enough, the engine sump is attached to the engine, and the gearbox plug to the gearbox, which is separated from the engine by the bellhousing.

Well, Mr Russell may have just put pen to paper in a virtual sense. Astonishing result in qually 3

yes I have done 100 kW on an Ionity charger at Perth. You only get the highest rates if you start the charge at a low state , around 10%, same as every EV. Sakdy the dealer who told you otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about .

on my car the oil sump plug is plastic, the actual sump is plastic so I guess it has to be. It is a cross head when you look close, but it can be undone with a large flat screwdriver too as it has one long cross - if you get me. It's just next to the place where the oil temp / pressure sensors are which has 2 nuts and wires going into the sump. I did take pictures of the plug if you want I'll upload one.

To @2006edr - It is easy, yes. For Engine is something like this: For Transmission is something like this:

Thanks, LEE -noted ,should I ever get a reader .

Thank you for the advice I have always tried to follow so a good engineering aspect in my years of driving and understanding how engines work but just wanted somebody to clarify what I was thinking of doing totally agree always warming engine up and always let it cool down especially now with modern turbocharged engines much appreciated

Modern engines running modern oil really do not benefit from any additives these days. And indeed, there is evidence that they can even do more harm than good. Also, as you have stated, if you bother to use decent fuels like Shell V-Power, or the new Esso Synergy, they have decent additive packs anyway which do the job of keeping the fuel system, inlet valve stems and combustion chamber nice and clean for you. Combine that with a sympathetic driving regime like this: After starting, warm the engine gently by driving in a low gear, keeping the load on the engine low whilst it is warming up - and I mean the oil fully warmed, not just the coolant. When the engine is fully warmed right through, don't be scared to give the car a decent caning on wide-open throttle once in a while. Then when you are nearing your destination, drive gently for the last few minutes, then once stationary, allow the engine to idle for a minute before shutting down. Yes, I know that turbo-charged Skoda have an auxiliary water pump which runs coolant round the turbo after shut-down, but to me, this is still best practice as it allows the oil to flow through the turbo as it cools as well. And you'll have no problems! This regime has served me well for cars and motorbikes, including race engines, over my 35 year driving and racing career! It's all about having just a little mechanical sympathy and using decent fluids. Hope this helps!

@MarkyG82 thanks for your replies. What you say makes complete sense however it’s bad that dealerships don’t advise that by not following the service schedule may invalidate warranty. I’ll report back what Skoda say next week.

There seems to be a combination of things. Apparently car usage is back to pre-Covid levels (even if tube in London is only at 50% weekdays / 60% weekends) so car demand must be about normal. New cars are severely rationed (actually can place orders, but probably won’t get it until 2022). Nearly new cars are sparse, wasn’t very many hire fleets etc buying new cars 6-17 months ago. Some dealerships didn’t even change their demonstrators as lockdowns prevented using them. Leases have expired, and with lack of new cars or lockdowns many have been extended, so older 2-4 year old cars aren’t hitting market at normal volumes. Similarly PCPs, in recent months the jump in used prices means handing a car back at end of PCP is daft (if car can be sold privately for £14k, and balloon payment is £10k, why would you hand it back when have £4K in equity keeping it), and probably not likely to trade it in until can get a replacement delivered. Then there are those who change cars more occasionally, when it gets to certain age or mileage, with lockdowns many have decided to wait another year, so they are coming back to buy a new car at time of lack of supply, 2021 instead of 2020, further increasing new car waiting times. So got normal levels of demand, but lack of supply so basic economics says prices will rise. How long will it last, looking like at least 2022, and probably be 2023 before lots of nearly new cars are flooding market pushing prices down.

Some great information here, thanks very much. Considering I’m doing almost all my driving on the motorway, I think I’m missing out on a few miles per tank. Maybe somewhere between 50 and 100miles. I’ll reassess after the service and wheel alignment as I’m getting some horrible wear on the rear inner wheels, maybe I’m dragging them a bit and that’s hitting the MPG. I’ll have a look at how to calibrate the gauge using my OBD11 if possible, sounds like a worthwhile attempt at correcting any errors. Thanks for this. Luckily I still had my receipt in the car from the last fill up (47Litres) so I’ve downloaded Fuelly and filled in the details. Will be interesting to know accurate results after a few tanks worth. Rob.

Here is Skoda's calculator. ŠKODA ENYAQ iV Charging Speed Calculator | ŠKODA UK (skoda-auto.com)

It's wrong - here is another TP site that says different and agrees with Skoda that it's AC charges is Max 11 Kw/h. Skoda Enyaq iV 80 home chargers | From just £34 a month | Smart Home Charge

classic - The cable that was supplied with my Enyaq is a three phase cable. Look at the Label. GIBSONMB - Yes 11 Kw/h limit.

So I seem to have found the issue. After reading another post about plugs leading yo missfire I bought some new ones and gapped them down to 0.6mm. I've driven it around a bit and I can't feel any stutters or misfiring. Thanks for all the help everyone.

Yes you do the three phase cable has three live connections. A 22 Kw/h charger, connected with a 3 Phase cable with give you 11 Kw/h. With a single phase cable 7.2 Kw/h.

So sorry Skoda. BTW postcodes in France are all numeric 😉

Nothing to stop you just getting the basic oil change service that your plan will cover done at the dealer, and getting the cam belt and DSG etc done elsewhere.

That's a really good point that you make about the warmer weather and I will certainly try to crack on whilst we have some lovely sunshine! I did not break any clips when deadening the doors, but I did purchase a trim removal tool set and this proved invaluable. I also used the steps in the workshop manual (available via a Google search and pasted below) to help me see exactly where the clips on the door cards were located. From memory, the drivers side was more difficult as it had the master window control module to remove which seemed difficult to do without breaking. I also have enclosed a photo of the factory sound deadening - if you can call it that! I was honestly surprised that they thought it was adequate to leave the factory with so little. But then I suppose that VAG must have some differences between the marques. Finally, I thought I would enclose a photo of the area that rattled the most from the lows that the speakers were playing. It was the plastic area I will show below. I actually removed the plastic panel and wrapped the edges with felt tesa tape. That really seemed to improve the seal created between the door panel and the plastic panel and eliminate the remaining rattles after the Dodo deadening was applied. I also removed the module that has connections going in (that you can see in the photo) and tesa taped underneath it, as this also was rattling! I would highly recommend choosing a playlist of songs that you can play once you think you have finished and you can then made sure there are no nasty noises left before you reassemble the door card. I did this, but not well enough! Therefore a week later I had to remove the door card again to chase down a couple of additional rattles that I had not eliminated the first time around. I found the track Ribs by Lorde to be especially demanding of the front door speakers so played this quote loudly with the bass on the head unit EQ set to about +4 to test that I had covered all the rattles and vibrations. I hope this may help and thank you again for the tips on the boot, I'll be trying that very soon!

Managed to pick up a bargain genuine seat sport front mount off a 1.8t too so correct pipework, very hard to find, I’ve already cleaned it out and going to wire wheel end tanks and paint it black this week then get it on. Also fitted some poly exhaust downpipe mounts, And I’ve changed the gearbox oil and booked in for getting the roof resprayed so she will be looking mint

The 'cd drive' is the headunit whereas the display side is just a screen with a touchscreen If I remember correctly, the connectors are: - white fakra for AM/FM - black fakra for DAB - pink fakra for the screen - yellow fakra for the USB port - blue fakra for GPS (not fitted above) - purple fakra for GSM (not fitted above) The quadlock has connections for: - power/ground - CAN-bus - speakers - microphone - a few other things depending on equipment You'll need to run most of those wires to your new headunit so maybe consider getting a quadlock extension or similar to make life easier

We have the 1.8TSI and DQ200 in our 2015 Polo GTI and both have been absolutely faultless. Gaz

Bonjour et bienvenue Teom@n . Gaz

Have you seen this thread?

@SiWaiting I feel the same. I have a similar situation, coming from a 1.4 tsi manual to a 1.5 manual. My previous car did react to gas pedal on 6th gear at 80 km/h but this one does nothing. So i just accelerate on smaller gears and also downshift more often when passing. The new gearbox must be a big player here but also the 1.5 tsi feels bit less powerful. I've been told that the new 1.5 comes with some emission reducing tech (like GPF), which affects the engine power. Looking at the chart, i think there must be something else different between the old car and new car, since for example, with the old car on second gear i often accelerated to about 80 km/h but with new car i get pretty close to max rpm before 80 km/h so i upshift earlier. So maybe there's a difference in final drive or something? The new gearbox MQ281 is "based on a 2.5 shaft concept". I wonder what that means?

Yes W5W T10 LED are dimmable.

I don't know if you are referring to this but maybe it's related. When I got my car, there was always some oil around speedometer cable entry area. When I unplugged it, there wasn't an O-ring around this part. After installing an O-ring, oil spillage around there is completely gone.

Back before they introduced E10 where I live (20 years ago) I remember a fleet of Felicias going around for testing purposes. It's been two decades since then and I see plenty of Favorits and Felicias still chugging along quite happily. The panic you guys have about E10 is unjustified.

Yes. How hard depends on the demand and ambient temperatures.

If you have auto selected the fan speed will vary as required, but in any car I’ve had with climate, the fan has never turned off.

Someone sell me their WRC. Thank you kindly.

A quick pic of my corrida red Sportline outside our holiday accommodation. It's a bit filthy after a 650 mile drive but it will get a good clean when we're back home 😀

i take it u don't have DCC suspension? the ride with 19s is very comfortable when paired with DCC, even with my car lowered on Eibach springs. also, a number of owners have switched from the factory 235/40R19 to 245/40R19 tyres. the extra 5mm sidewall thinkness adds to more cushioning of bumps, potholes and road noise.

Whilst this is still ongoing I wanted to take time out to thank you to the members of this community. When I posted this issue I only just had the accident. The speed at which members of this community responded and advised on what to do speaks volumes. So Thanks All

The jet points onto the rear screen. You can adjust it within 70° or so.

The front shock absorbers come in two types depending whether your strut has an outside diameter of 50mm or 55mm. Front Shock Absorber Bilstein B8 35-229902 (Strut outside diameter 50mm) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/7522723 Front Shock Absorber Bilstein B8 35-229919 (Strut outside diameter 55mm) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/7522724 Rear Shock Absorber Bilstein B8 24-229937 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/7522727 It's possible that the above information is incorrect, so check with the seller before purchasing.

2019 4x4 280 Stage 1 ECU TCU Eibach 20x9 ET35 255/30 Conti few mods

I’ve gone with koni special actives. Massive difference. But I am also lowered on H&R

Unfortunately you must have been ripped off. I didn't compile my first database until February, 2018 which is when I purchased my Skoda Octavia. I have never put my database on eBay and I would never do so. It's totally against my principles. I get my database from another forum for free and I would never make money off someone else's generosity. I just take the time out to adjust them and recompile them for the MIB2 Skoda/VW infotainment units. I don't post them elsewhere. I only offer them on this forum and they are absolutely free to the members who want to use them. I would never ask for any payment or a donation of any kind and I will continue to do so as long as possible. I do have an eBay account but I only buy items. As far as I can remember I have only sold 1 item and that was about ten years ago. It was a second hand heater motor for a Vauxhall Vectra - my previous car. My actual eBay username is Biggerade1 as I think the name bigade1 had already been taken. I appreciate you pointing this out to me but it's definitely not me. Thanks though.

I didn’t replace it before if you actually read ... I repair it with a connector! Which lasted 15 months ... don’t need to clear any codes either .... when it’s fixed the light goes out

Latest Updated Speedcams - May, 2021. My car has only just come back from a crash repair centre after two months of waiting so I've been unable to do any updates as I haven't had the ability to test them in a vehicle before posting them. So anyway, here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( May, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams May, 2021.zip

Heres another go at it. Got silver mesh from local auto parts store, painted it black and installed it behind the grill and front lip also found its way under the bumper. Much better now !