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Enjoyed my first full week of ownership, 300 miles down and few thousand more to go!! just waiting for the 26gb map update to finish downloading, then that’s a job for tomorrow. No regrets from moving from Audi so far

Picked up a little run about. Sorted out the Audio gave it a wash and replaced badges so far.

every time when you want a tow car.

New cars don't need to be "run in" as such engine wise in the same way that they used to. However, it's still a sensible precaution to drive "conservatively" for the first 500 miles or so. As stated above, this will give everything time to bed in. In all probability 99 times out of 100 there will be no difference. But you don't want to be that 1%!

A few from testing yesterday.

Yes, as long as there is no mental pressure on Bottas he's very fast. Maybe Alfa should only enter one car next year so he won't always be worrying about his team-mate. He is, I read, hacked off at not being credited with this pole today mind you.

I'm back lol. So slight announcement to this thread, I found myself in need of another car while I'm rebuilding my zafira gsi and saw a 05 plate black magic vrs on facebook and thought better the devil you know and have collected it. If I'm honest it too low so il be winding the coils up asap, I tore the splitter off on the drive home and I was being careful! New one may go on eventually but for now I need to replace both os door mechs, figure out the mirror switch only moving the ns mirror (I have the switch off my old car still) and fit a new middle vent as a phone holder appears to have destroyed it. Plan is once the zafira is road worthy again (she smokes like James bonds aston) this car will be cleaned up, will fit the cupra r and tt bits I still have lying around and get her on track. Cant wait.

Took me 3 days this week (not full days, about 15 hours total... the blistering heat done me in) to get all the mods/deletes done. But done they are. The catch can piping is interfering a little with the MAF plug so I'd like to deal with that. And I hate all those clips but I guess they're a necessary evil. Bit of modding of the engine cover and that'll go back on.

Got my 6th Octavia a mk4 3 weeks ago 10.5 k miles 1.5 TSI Business. The first time I drove on the motorway the brakes were juddering and grinding. Took it straight back to the dealers, I had only had it a day and they replaced the front discs and pads. 2 weeks later the car is still juddering whilst braking and there is a whining like a wheel bearing. Back to the dealer and yes it needs front wheel bearings. In addition to this the front drivers tyre had no balancing weights and also the usual sat nav popping and dialling sos by itself etc. It also has the kangarooing from first to second. This is a Skoda approved car that has supposed to have been checked prior to sale and collection. Obviously someone did not check the vehicle properly! The dealer is addressing the issues without complaint but it makes be question the quality of the parts used by Skoda on assembly. I forgot to mention the rear discs are corroded too.

Just wanted an opinion. 1.6tdi CAYC engine. Turbo feed pipe (smaller on that bolts to the block with a banjo with two crush washers) on cranking when removed supplys a good amount oil. Larger pipe also bolted to the block (larger with banjo bolts and o rings) when Removed and cranking bearly dribbles. I personally dont think that's correct, I would assume that roughly the same amount of oil would come from the return that goes into the supply? Just looking for opinions 😊 Turbo is squealing like a.... Well let's say something that squeals alot! Cheers.

Wow. Washed up driver leads washed up team 1-2 at GP. Well done McLaren. Well done also Halo designer and legislators. Max's wheel hit Hamilton's head in their shunt, and he's not seriously hurt or worse.

@Jim2015 Wheels & Arches - spray wheels and arches with a 4% solution of Bilt Hamber Auto Foam. Allow to dwell for 2/3 minutes and power hose off. - spray wheels wheels with CarPro Reset (5ml Reset to 700ml water). Coat liberally. Agitate with a suitable wheel or large detail brush, including tyre faces. Power hose off. Bodywork - Wash - coat car with Bilt Hamber Auto Foam using foam lance. Allow this to dwell. Depending on the ambient temperature, this dwell time can be used to clean window shuts, grill sections etc with a suitable detailing brush. Power hose off. - clean window shuts, grill sections etc with suitable detailing brush (ignore if done above) and power hose off. - wash the bodywork using a dedicated microfibre mitt from top to bottom, one panel at a time until complete, remembering door shuts. Wash in straight likes as much as you can. Don’t swirl about. - wash the wheels using a dedicated microfibre mitt, tyre faces and mud flaps. - fully rinse the car down from top to bottom. Drying - using a dedicated microfibre cloth, dry the bodywork from top to bottom one panel at a time. - using a dedicated microfibre cloth, dry the door shuts - using a dedicated microfibre cloth, dry the wheels and tyre faces. I do that every 2 weeks. In a March and October I’ll do a big wash, stripping all protection off the bodywork, decontaminating using a fallout remover, tar remover all that good stuff. I don’t clay bar as I don’t have a machine polisher to correct afterwards. After it’s decontaminated, it’s the above wash, protect, seal and that’s it. I’d probably top the protection up every 2 months in between that. Like I said. This is my routine that gives me results I’m happy with. I know there are issues with it, but I’m not willing to go the extra mile to get the extra results. It would stop being enjoyable for me if I did.

Hi Brijo. I hope the following may be useful to you: Firstly, just to be clear: I have no connection to Tayna batteries, but have had good next day delivery service from them on the two occasions I have used them. There are other similar online suppliers. They are offering the two batteries you mentioned as follows: Bosch S4 005 at £54.50 + £7.97 delivery Bosch S4 E08 at £105 99 + £8.37 delivery These prices do not include fitting, but on my TDI 170 this was a straightforward 20 minute job, without any reprogramming needed as I do not have 'Stop / Start' - I imagine yours will be the same (although I could be wrong) as it is also a 2013 model. If you are unable to fit it yourself, perhaps a friendly neighbour or local garage could do so for a small fee, I would think it would still work out a good bit less expensive than your quoted figures. I seem to remember (you may need to check,) that some Varta batteries are identical to Bosch, with a different 'badge,' but at even lower prices. Goosd luck.

Use genuine Terry Jubilee clips rather than the VAG spring clips.

It will defrost the car. With the car plugged in it'll do a great job of defrosting the car and warming the interior. Without the car plugged in and without the auxillary heater, it'll take the chill off the interior and it'll begin to melt any ice on the windscreen, but that's about it

6Q0 407 623 E That's the part number for the protective ring. It should clip firmly over the end of the driveshaft, if it's not clipped firmly it will rub against the sensor (destroying it slowly) and not protect the ring from dust/dirt. Happened with mine when Skoda did mine, wasn't too happy but they reimbursed me the cost of a new abs sensor and wheel bearing so i can't entirely complain lol.

Hello Everyone, After a long time research and indeed hesitation, my current setup is: + Eibach Pro springs with a 15 mm drop in front and 5 mm drop in back (although after installation and a couple of hundred km's done, springs seem to have consolidated and the actual drop appears to be more) + KÖNİ FSD (Marketed as Special Active) + USP Motorsport 034 Billet Aluminum Upper Dogbone Mount Insert + USP Motorsport 034 Street Density Dogbone Mount Pair. The result is simply amazing. Of course, despite the FSD's, the ride is considerably firmer but perfectly acceptable for daily driving, especially given the improvement in turn-in, handling, grip and traction. I should remind that I have no other car, so my vRs is also my daily driver. A lot of petrolheads believe that cars actually talk to their owners. So, I can say that, with the stock setup, the car was saying "I am just a much - faster - in - the - straights version of a regular Skoda Octavia." Now, it cleary says "I am a vRs." I reckon that the OEM setup should have been like this. Of course, nothing comes free of drawbacks. Although in general the suspension provides a quite acceptable level of comfort in rough roads, I now have to be more careful while driving over the sharpest potholes and bumps. If a little excessive speed over them, the suspension virtually disables itself and bammm! No problem if I slow down a bit more than I did with stock setup. Remember that, this does not happen all the time, only passing over the sharpest potholes and bumps. The second drawback is related to the dogbones. They (as expected) caused an increase in interior vibration levels. The vibration itself is by no means at a disturbing level, instead, it contributes the car saying "I am a vRs." It's perfectly fine if it comes alone. However, it does not do so. it triggers an annoying buzzing sound in the interior plastics. This again does not happen all the time. It happens when the engine load (not necessarily RPM) exceeds a certain level. At the end of the day, I am very pleased with the setup.

@DieselMonteor @AMD87might be able to help if they see this or others hopefully.

If the Max Towing weight unbraked is 450 kg and you stick to that any Roomster with any engine / gearbox will do just fine. Maybe look at possible issues with pre 2012 1.2 TSI's or with Euro 5 1.6 TDI's that have had the fix, so that leads towards the 1.9 TDI.

That’s more like it in terms of repair. Make sure it’s all documented and in the warranty and you’re back on track 🙂

You can adjust light height manually to improve range. There are screws on top of the lights. Beware, if you set main beams too high your high lights will show up to sky. Find the balance.

Thanks no I'd not thought of that .... Years 4 and 5 were purchased with the car so this year is my first .... Good spot.

I had a similar train of thought before I bought mine as well. I ruled out the petrol models (lacking in torque for towing) and all the diesels apart from the 1.9Tdi. It has the well regarded PD ('Pumpe Duse') engine with 105hp which is a bit gruff though long-lived, economical with enough torque to tow a small trailer. The 1.6 diesel engine has the same power output but has a DPF plus some other well documented reliability issues. Just had mine remapped to 148hp at the flywheel (about 133hp at the wheels) by Darkside Developments nr Barnsley. Not a 'knock your socks off' improvement but gives a better and more accessible spread of torque which will be ideal for towing my medium sized dinghy trailer. For ultimate practicality try to get one with roof rails already in place, ditto a tow bar.

The driverside rear wheel has vibration and the other side has nothing so I think there's the problem

Being exhausted due to being on a non-circular course. Or did you mean an "out of round tyre" like I said? In which case it's exactly what it sounds like; a tyre that's not round, causing more wear at one point on the circumference than others, and hence a rhythmic drone from one corner. As @e-Roottoot says, you're going to have to inspect the tyres or get someone to do it for you.

Sure you’re well aware of this as you’ve renewed several times previously but make sure to factor in the 30 day delay on the start date. I took mine out beginning of august though my original year doesn’t run out until tomorrow as I spotted the “cannot start for 30 days” clause when checking for prices. Maybe it doesn’t apply to a renewal but I didn’t want to take the chance of a gap in cover so I just put the start date to run from the original expiry.

Well IMO there's no point in running the fan if the thermostat hasn't opened.

That looks interesting - do you happen to have a link?

I had the same issue with my first Superb in 2016, I had optional Xenon lights fitted. Range was poor, bordering on dangerous. The light beam should change with speed, it is easy to see this. They would do the startup dance and turned left/right. The dealer (master tech at a main dealer) didn't hve a clue about how the lights work. All they appeared to do (I watched the dashcam footage) was plug the car in to the diagnostic computer and then they worked.

@Doombar Running in or as it might be in the Owners Manuals 'Driving in' is still a thing, New Tyres & New Brakes, so the Tyres need the greeness taken off them, so need some miles on them when put to the right pressure and the TPMS set. The brakes are going to be as tight as they ever will be so break / wear them in. While doing that you can let the engine, gearbox, bearings etc get the newness off them and listen for any noises. Do not expect that to be the way sales people run a new car, they are just putting 3,000 miles / 3 months use on Demonstrators until they are sold as Ex Management cars. The way they drive them might do no harm, but they never check oil levels until the Warning Light shows, so maybe be sure you check when you get the car and then a few times regularly after you have been driving it.

If there is a fault somewhere - the lights will, as a safety thing, point straight down. Usually, a faulty AFS slave module causes this. Check if there r any error codes? Does ur headlight do the startup dance? i.e. down, left, right, up. If the above r good, then u likely need to get them realigned at a garage. There is a software fix for the headlights - to fix the issue where one of the headlights doesn't return to it's normal up position after the dance, because the car's startup sequence interrupts the headlights electronics. The software fix adds a time delay.

The fact you’ve said just recently makes me think your cars needs the software update to fix the headlights. Having said that, that recall or software fix only applies to xenons I believe. If your car has xenons does it do the headlight dance? Right at the end it should lift the lights up but the software issue doesn’t do that so the headlight shines near the floor

I don't have an answer for you, but I have noticed the same problem recently with my HID lights. When I first got the car 2.5 years ago I thought the lights were terrific, but lately I would struggle to break 40mph on a country road because the throw of the dipped beams is so short. The main beams seems fine and the lights do their start-up dance so I, too, would be grateful for some advice as to what might be causing this.

I picked up the car yesterday afternoon. I was driving up to pick up the new car and drop of my old one and I felt a slight bit of buyers remorse. The diesel was such a great car, that only lasted about 2 minutes though. As soon as I started heading home in the new car and found an open road I had a huge smile on my face. Very happy with the change back to a petrol car. All the little things that have been "changed/upgraded" from going from a 2015 diesel to a 2018 petrol are nice improvements. The driving experience is very different and is of course the biggest change, Took the "scenic" route home and took so much time my missus phoned to find out where I was. 🤣 The new car is an absolutely mint condition for a used car. I looked at quite a few other cars before making my mind up on going for this one. A petrol VRS is quite rare in Northern Ireland, there was any amount of diesel versions for sale but in the whole of N.I there was only 2 MKIII petrol cars for sale. The other one was a 230 in rally green but I probably couldn't have lived with the colour of that one, although I did take it for a test drive etc. it only had 12k miles on it, but wasn't in as good a condition as this one. Just small things really it had a few tiny car park dings, the wheels needed a refurb, it also looked very used inside. The dealer I got this one from said the previous owner was very fussy and it really shows, it really is just like a brand new car. Before deciding to stick with Skoda, I looked at E class and C class Mercedes, 3 & 4 series B.M.W's, Golf R's and a few Audi A5's and A6's but I just preferred the Skoda. The Golf R was great to drive but just didn't have the same practicality as the Skoda. Also took a Focus ST3 and a Audi S3 for a drive as well but they were both too much like boy racer cars for me and at my age I just thought I would look silly driving either. I wanted a car that had decent performance but also needed some practicality I use the car for work as well and have a lot of camera equipment to carry around and this one ticks all the boxes for me, although I did seriously contemplate a BMW 330i which was also good in terms of performance/practicality but I have never had much luck with pervious B.M.W cars I have owned and maybe I am weird but I also preferred how the Skoda looks, especially the interior, seats etc. even though the B.M.W was full leather. I would have loved an M3 and found an absolute cracker with red leather etc. but it was well over my budget and while I could have stretched once I had taken this car for a test drive my mind was made up. The colour of the new car is proving to be a bit polarising with some people not liking it at all, I really like it though. I let my brother take it for a quick spin yesterday evening and even he was impressed which is a bit of a feat as he is used to driving much higher spec cars and changes his cars like other people change their socks, he currently has a BMW I8 and a Lamborghini Gallardo.

Windscreen claims are logged by some insurers and posted to the MID. Mine was a few years back.

Snap same as mine

It's not bad, but it's never going to touch Waze or Google maps. Those apps are more advanced, have more reliable traffic info, because of a lot of users and you can put in a destination on your phone or even computer and just click go in the car.

I have DCC on my petrol vRS and I think its brilliant. Sport mode is pretty harsh on bad roads but on better tarmac, really makes the car feel like it has a sporty heritage (you can even go a bit firmer than sport in the individual settings) Normal made is great for most everyday driving, and comfort will waft you along the motorway smoothly and help soak up the bumps on rough roads/dirt tracks if you ever find yourself on them. It's the only real option I specced and I'd say it's well worth it on the vRS in the UK with the 19's

Complete 60000 service done today : - Engine oil + filter change - New air filter - New cabin filter - New wipers (front + rear) - DSG6 oil + filter change All DIY 😎😁 ! I plan to write a "How to guide" for the DSG6 oil change, but I may need some help for technical translation. @J.R. Would you mind my asking to you per PM? I know you have very good skills in French. Thanks in advance.

For what it's worth, the ride in my vrs petrol with no DCC is fine on normal on crap UK roads... But only once I removed the transport blocks!

Fabia Mk3 1.0 TSI 95 5 speed manual Ambition - Drive 125 ans Energy Blue 16'' ARONIA bi-ton black 215/45 R16 86H I bought it this week which is my first Skoda.

There's a joke there somewhere....sorry, couldn't resist! I'll get me coat...

Thought I might as well put up a thread on my recent purchase. Two months ago I purchased an R53 Mini, cutting a long story short - the car had an issue, that the dealer was making a meal out of fixing and in the end I got my money back. Now not sure what to replace it with and looking at the used car market, anything decent is MILES away from me. So decided to purchase a run around. Now this involved looking at the sub £1000 market on Facebook/Gumtree etc which is a MINEFIELD. Lots of scrappers and chav wagons at this price point, however this popped up on Gumtree last Tuesday and looked promising: 2008 Skoda Fabia Estate 1.4 TDI - That turns out to be the higher spec 3 model with full DIS, cruise control, climate control, 6 CD, better speakers, parking distance control. It was pretty filthy inside, has no history and the bonnet has suffered bad lacquer peel, but the mechanicals were good and the MOT history was a lot cleaner than anything else I had checked. It needs a service so the asking price was knocked down from £795 to £750 and I was on my way! Pics before clean: Scrubs up pretty well: Well happy with it! Service was on the cards next.

I'm afraid I don't care anywhere near enough about seat dust to bother unbolting them haha

I'm forever confusing the two...

Most of the suspension related codes are not printed on the option label, only the one for front damping. In your case this is G07 which means it's standard chassis. If you sign up to erWin you can pay to get the full list of PR codes for your car, or a friendly dealer might tell you what's fitted. Another thing you can do is jack up the car and see what paint marks are on the rear springs - they can be cross-referenced with the table I attached to the OP.

My Yeti's battery is the original, nearly eight years old now, and I think a replacement would be prudent before another winter. My annual mileage is only around 5K nowadays, mainly on a few local journeys a week under 20 miles, but with three or four a year over 300 miles. The car lives outside, and it can sometimes get very chilly round these hills. The AA are offering me alternative Bosch batteries: the S4005 60ah at £127 or the S4E08 70ah at (wow!) £215, member rate, delivered and fitted at home (almost essential for me). Is the extra amp/hr worth the big jump in price? Your thoughts would be welcome, guys.

Why bother washing cars .....they just get dirty again. Mine gets a wash and brush every year when it has a service .