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Hi guys, I finally have my paddles steering wheel. I found oh eBay paddles heated st wheel (only the wheel) for 100 Euro delivery includ. And additionally paddless+View MF buttons. For another 130 Euro. Totally for 230 Euro, instead 630 Euro for brand new from dealarship. The airbag and pkastic trim I used from original st wheel. Now I'm selling original st wheel and MF buttons. So, now I have my dreamed paddles. After install it everything start working!!! Thank You very much to all of You in this topic!!! Your information and advices were very usefull. See the pictures. Best regards, Nedko

I a Simple. 16" or 17" wheels for the rows, and in each case the left figure is the front tyres, the right the rrears. I do get concerned when people talk about tyre pressures without ensuring that they are referring to the same size. Obviously in this case it doesn't matter, but on some types of cars there are various diameters, widths and aspect ratios used, and sometimes extra load or non extra load, and these may have very different pressures.

2007 Fabia Bohemia 1.4 Tdi. Getting a few issues sorted at moment, but it's slowly getting back to normal.

Watch out if you go for Bohemia seats. The side seat pad bolsters on the one I look after, are starting to collapse slightly and you can feel the wire frame in them. Lovely looking Fab and the Bohemia alloys do look good on it.

Had mine a couple of months now, have changed all the front and rear emblems from Chrome to Black, as think it fits better with all the other black trim on the car - Loving the bright colour as previous cars have been white and black!

Thanks guys, part now returned to its rightful place.

YouTube Music.. in car display..

The correct tool looks like a large pair of tweezers with 2 little clips on the inside that clip over the cap then you pull the cap off, I did find that for the first time mine would not budge, so i used a pair of long nosed pliers and wrapped some masking tape around the prongs I found that I could get a good grip on the cap and wiggle it off, i then used a small amount of silicon grease on the inside of the cap when re-fitting them

Yeah they came with it.

A not that recent pic of my vRS. A work in progress.

Checked where the cable leaves the car into the boot? In many vehicles of all makes that area gets more damage than those outside of flexible trunking. Doors often have the same issues of cracked cables.

Hence why there's no photos of my rear speaker replacement... I spent most of it on my back with the seats folded down and my legs hanging out the boot! I like the vRS kit on a black Fabia but less so on the lighter ones (besides the Special Edition) where I prefer the standard bumpers. Standard bumpers with the small spoiler look good in any colour IMO, there's a few older Fab's cropped up like that on AutoTrader (no I totally don't have a saved search running).

I do remember that one yes. I was the one suggested it should be stickied!

+1 on it being duff shocks. They mightn't be leaking, mine werent but mine would certainly bottom out. Irish roads are also shockingly (get it?) bad and mine was bottoming out FAR too often. I blame the Sally gap for finishing them off . If you were to replace the shocks I'd get some decent ones. The bilsteins my mk1 had were still in decent shape after all the abuse it took, certainly compared to the shocks off the mk2. I've not found the mk2 bottoming out since I put the coilovers on, and it sitting lower now.

Wouldn't surprise me if everything was shot to be honest. I bought the car for the mileage alone (51k in March) and it's on that cusp where a lot of OEM stuff is dying or needing replaced. We (my Grampa and I) reckon the brake discs were original, which would explain why stopping was a great effort that required militarily-spec precision. I can grab them on eBay if I can't find a set local enough. I have a decent selection of scrap yards in Ayr and Irvine alone. So I shouldn't be too stuck! I've got a set of Team Heko deflectors on mine currently, they look sweet on the Fab. Functional too. The boot struts will be a TMS bought item since that's where I get all of my serviceable/consumable items from without issue. We've been using them since the days of my Granda's '51-reg Vectra.

I know, it's the same here. There was a red 1.9 Elegance estate going for £150 up my way with a few days MOT and a knackered PAS system that I considered snapping up, but alas, I don't have the room for it and my Mum would kill me!

@skomaz Just if you were curious about how the yellow bulbs look, I took some photos this evening with them installed in the mk1. Not quite as dark mind. Had it out this evening for a few runs, running as well as ever. Cheap fabias are scarce on the ground at the minute so looks like i'll be copying annoyingpentiums idea of making a list and looking through scrapyards until I find what I need. Also, the wiper cowl was cracked so I took it off and glued it back together. Glued it from the underside so its not terribly visible when its on the car.

Middle headrest is meant to be very hard to come by. Any sort of sport seat found in the polo or ibiza will fit a fabia, same for mk2 seats into a mk1. When you say new springs are you just going to replace with standard? Or go for something along the lines of eibach springs?

№ part code title note quantity data model information disc brake front *RS* floating caliper brake brake caliper housing calliper carrier brake disc (vented) 312X25MM 16" PR-1LL,1ZB Front Brake Calipers ATE 1 1K0 615 123 F brake caliper housing red left painted 1 (1) 1K0 615 124 F brake caliper housing red right painted 1 Front Brake Calipers ATE 2 1K0 615 125 E calliper carrier red D >> - 24.05.2009 painted 2 2 5N0 615 125 A calliper carrier red D - 25.05.2009>> painted 2 PR-1ZB 312mm Front Brake Discs 8 1K0 615 301 AA brake disc (vented) 312X25 5/112 2 Front Brake Pads 15 5K0 698 151 1 set: brake pads with wear indicator for disc brake free cable ends must be isolated D >> - 24.05.2009 front 1 PR-1LL 15 3C0 698 151 C 1 set: brake pads with wear indicator for disc brake free cable ends must be isolated D - 25.05.2009>> front 1 PR-1ZB https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2010-663/6/615-615030/ From the above information, if the car was manufactured on or after 25.05.2009 it will have build code 1ZB. There doesn't appear to be much difference between the front brakes of build code 1LL and 1ZB. ATE sell exactly the same front brake pads for both 5K0698151 and 3C0698151C OEM part numbers. Same ATE Front Brake Pads for both 5K0698151 and 3C0698151C https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5k0698151?search=OEN+5K0698151&supplier[0]=3https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5k0698151?search=OEN+5K0698151&supplier[0]=3

Let us know how it goes, @matrix2020

Mine is booked in for Thursday for the SOS and freezing 'fix', fingers crossed! I will report back if anything changes.

Quick update, not having a lot of time these days. But now ready for placing the amps, wiring job, mounting sub. And make a plan for the cover panel which will become something special.

Front and rear.

Thanks guy's. That's great. I'll use the cable that it came with and one of those adaptors. John

Similar to @Tishout I tried several different 30cm cables and failed to find one suitable. In the end I bought a right angle USB-C --> USB-A adapter and used the NextBase cable that came in the box. Tucking it behind the mirror conceals it surprisingly well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Converter-Smartphone-Keyboards-Peripherals/dp/B07D7TQD86/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=zdyCGTime+USB+C&qid=1634651142&qsid=260-9540041-1628026&sr=8-4&sres=B08PP7T64C%2CB07D7TQD86%2CB08JH9MBLQ%2CB08JHTT1C2%2CB08JHZNV1M%2CB0948WLDN7%2CB08FDJ36XW%2CB072C563JD%2CB086DP8Q9N%2CB08B4F64SQ%2CB08YYNVTZ8%2CB010SFDKC6%2CB0771GTYC7%2CB098XNCHLD%2CB098SWBMK2%2CB0887TD21N

My first year just ran out. I didn't realise you had to pay for it after the first year. Not a chance. You would think Skoda customer service might throw everyone an extra year for free to make up for the all the issues everyone has had. Wishful thinking 😅

I tried several different cables, and ended up with buying a 1 meter long one and just turn it around the mirror holder (or whatever the name is of the thing holding the mirror to the mount). You can't see the cable at all, so works for me and have some extra length if needed...

I have had a similar issue with another brand a few years back, it turned out to be the hard drive so I swapped that with a cheap one from Amazon. A few months after that the box would light up but nothing would happen, that was due to the power supply giving up. The system was about 5 years old at that point so opted to get new equipment as the image quality was far superior. Edit: Can you get in through the app on your phone and check settings that aren't visible on the monitor?

They restore their pattern when you stop. Since they change light pattern according to speed and situations, when you stop they return to "parking" state, which is just a normal state.

Steering wheel should never need moving, if it wasn't straight it means the tracking wasn't correct.

You sure it's not the clutch.. 😆 Neither of mine do.

So, I thought I'd update this post as I've just come across this (to me), the most well spec'd out Octavia I've seen. This L&K seems to have electric seats? So I gather this must've been an option from the factory, unless it has been retrofitted, but I can't see it being in this example. Multi-fuction steering wheel also, which is a nice touch. It has Xenons too.

That's the one. Thanks @Mickvrs220

Driving data.

Yeah it doesnt quite run like a sewing machine. There is no plastic cover on the head, so I assume that might let out a bit more noise. My GTE had an internal 'soundaktor' which only played sports noises in GTE mode. In sport mode on the IV I don't notice it at all so either my car doesn't have the internal one or it's been turned down massively. I'd pull the fuse and see what error it throws?

My dealer called ours is ready. Ordered mid april style + matrix and self parking 1.5 tsi mhev automatic dsg. Will be here in 2 weeks i guess

Of course, I forgot that they measure at the tailpipe. There is a case to be made for the Lambda reading being measured from the OBD port, do they interrogate for fault codes in the UK MOT test? Lambda value out of limits would definitely generate a high level generic OBDII code.

Having trouble removing these bolt caps is another indicator to point to the fact that that car has not had its wheels off for a very long time, it is a good plan to service the brakes once every year or every other year, plus if the wheels have not been off for quite a long time, unless you live in an area where NO road salt/grit is used in winter, or are not near the seaside, then getting these wheels off in the event of a puncture, might prove to be a lot harder than expected. I think with my own car bought at just under 2.5 years old, getting the bolt covers off was a bit tricky, so I cleaned off any accumulated salt or corrosion, then applied a "touch" of silicon grease - though now due to me removing the wheels twice a year to change to summer/winter wheels/tyres, these bolt covers come off quite easily, and so far I've never ever lost any from either car.

Pressing the button to the right of the scroll wheel will bring up the list of displays. Use wheel to scroll through and press to select. Can't remember the name of the one that includes the digital speedo but its there.

Skoda have officially closed their factories for 2 weeks. In that period they plan to finish 10000 cars that were missing the final parts. After those two weeks they plan to resume the production. Not as bad as I thought.

Gee whiz you got the 5 o'clock Friday crew responding to you!! What a load of [insert chosen expression.................] Are they so devoid of understanding how part suppliers work with Automotive manufacturing that they could spin you that! The supplier that manufacturers the coolant bottle manufactured it to VWAG specification including the Silica bag!!! The wording in the VW self training guide is from memory more to do with high heat loads and the amount of silicate available in G13 being depleted, not directly referencing time. But make no mistake it was a very deliberate design feature designed and added to the reservoir tanks for a reason. Was your bag actually split and leaking granules, if not something else may be at play? If it was leaking, it is very difficult to clear the coolant system especially the heater matrix.

I had a similar problem with intermittent starting. I replaced the main relay in ignition circuit and have not had the problem since.

Crossed no. 155 Whin Rigg off the Wainright list. Looking over towards No. 128 IIlgill Head

I cleaned up and painted the exhaust center mount, and retapped the captive nut threads so I could fit new bolts. These are a pig to remove when the bracket is fitted, so made it easier with the bracket off the car.

Lift pump in fuel tank?

I have yet to see a pipe bender made from sponge I did however make the same cut on mine but for my own reason, the sponge profile is to seal against, or at the very least minimise, water infiltration, if its compressed against the gas strut body there will be gaps at each side so I made a similar cut to fit as close as possible to the casing.

Do you have a Stop/Start battery system? Is it the original battery? If you have a Stop/Start battery then having no SOC figure is normal. This is because the battery is not charged fully by design and is also allowed the fall to less than 50% before the 'Smart Charging' system kicks in. If the car showed the SOC most people would think that their battery was no good. 12.3 volts at rest and 13.3 volts ( if ) when it is charging is low for a Stop/ Start battery system? Thanks, AG Falco

New owner, took delivery this week. Pretty happy with the colour!

In the infotainment system, one of the screens in the 'Car' selection (Vehicle Status I think it is), has a button with the stop/start symbol and the word 'Info' - pressing this will tell you what caused the engine to restart. It can be quite interesting to see the sorts of things that cause the car to decide to restart the engine, such as interior humidity.