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I've been on this forum for about 9 years now and it was invaluable in helping me to firstly decide the Yeti was a car I'd rather not live without and then to decide on spec. (and indeed what some of the options actually were) and it was through the advice of some of the earliest members I took the trouble to get my Elegance supplied on 16" rather than 17" wheels, which I've never regretted. Throughout most of that time there has been light-hearted banter, excellent advice and on many occasions clear disagreement about the "right" way to do things. But posters seemed to be able to agree to disagree and leave the OP to decide what advice to follow and what to ignore. You quickly learnt who "knew their stuff", for example The Plumber was held in high regard for his technical knowledge, Llanigram was the go-to guy for off-roading and had an impressive knowledge of legislation and there were others of their standing or close to it. I learnt a lot along the way, most of which I will never put into practice but at least put me a little less in the role of sheep-to-the-slaughter when the car goes into the garage for work. But what I don't remember was any unnecessary and sometime sustained unpleasantness - usually about something totally inconsequential. Unfortunately owners have moved on and, at least in my opinion, some of the newer members seem to think they have a monopoly on being right and aren't slow in expressing that anyone holding a different view is either incompetent or a fool. A couple of recent examples are the tirades being delivered about where to put the locking bolt (if at all) when the OP simply asked about replacing a rounded-of bolt and the "discussion" about the possible insurance consequences of changing the ride height and, by inference, handling characteristics. It's perfectly reasonable for a forum member to point out modifications can affect insurance and totally out of order to say that this isn't appropriate for a car forum. If you don't like any advice, don't take it but it might be helpful to others now or in the future. I will continue visiting the forum because there is always something to be learnt and also hopefully occasionally I may be able to help someone with their issue but I have to say that these days there's an increasing urge to use the "ignore" button for some members and their content. If this posting offends anyone sorry about that but I'll happily add you to my Ignore list as I'd simply rather correspond with posters who can respect the views of others even if they can't agree with them. Best wishes for the New Year to the many, many forum members able to participate in a sensible and civilised manner.

I can't read any of the above posts as you are all on my ignore list 😀

Just barging in on this thread ( bored with eating and watch Xmas TV all day 😂 ) so tell me to sod off as I no longer own a Octavia. Root is correct. Just to clear up a few errors from elsewhere in this thread 1. Under PCP the car belongs to the finance company ( usually VW Finance ). It only becomes yours if / when you make that large final payment. Under PCP you are the registered keeper, not the registered owner. 2. You MUST inform both finance company ( the owner ) and the supplying dealer that you are rejecting the car. Your contract is with both of them. 3. It was under the old system you had to give the supplying dealer a chance to rectify the problem but laws have since changed. Note - the problem has to be serious, you can't reject if it's a niggle or minor inconvenience. A faulty gearbox that needs replaced is about as major a problem as you can get. (a) Within the first month of delivery, you can reject a product if it proves to be faulty - end of. No attempts to fix it required ( although common courtesy would say give them a chance ) (b) From month 2 to month 6 if a fault develops the onus is on the supplier to prove the fault was not present at time of delivery. Again you give supplier a chance or two to rectify problem, but if it persists you can reject. (c) From month 6 to month 12 the onus is on buyer to prove the fault was present at time of delivery. This is potentially more tricky and it's unusual for a car to be rejected after 6mth. (d) After 12mth? You've more chance of winning the lottery than rejecting the car 😂 My advice to the OP is that if what you say is accurate i.e. you reported the fault within the first month since delivery, then I wouldn't expect there to be any issues rejecting the car. If it was over the month since they were informed, that they've confirmed there's a problem and it can't be rectify within a reasonable timescale, it's a simple rejection. ( Some dealers may try and plead that because they gave you alternative transport i.e. courtesy car, that they are entitled to repair the faulty car - it's not true, it's not what the law says. don't let them away with it if they try that ). Notify both the finance company and the supplying dealership you're rejecting the car. Under law, both are equally liable for the car you're paying for. And last two very important things to remember that almost everyone gets wrong. THIS HAS NOTHING WHATSOEVER TO DO WITH SKODA UK so don't blame them. (There's nothing they can do anyway). Your contract is only with the supplying dealer and finance company. And whatever you do, DO NOT STOP YOUR MONTHLY PCP PAYMENTS until told to do so. Hope that helps. PS - If I were in your situation? Rejection should be easy but what's your alternative? As delivery times on new cars are all over the place right now, can you purchase a car in stock?

Disconnect it ASAP, its the self destruct countdown timer 😆 That might be wrong, the countdown might start from when you disconnect it 😆

205/55R16 are one of the cheapest 16" tyres you can buy. If you change to another size, such as as 205/60R16, 215/55R16, 215/60R16, etc. the price goes up a lot. The 1960's Jaguar E type had wheels that fitted within the wheel arches, and that car is widely regarded as one of the best looking cars of all time. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_E-Type#/media/File:Jaguar_E-Type_series_1_coupé_1964.jpg

Touch/click on the three dots in the top right corner of the post you wish to report and you will see this option appear. (For the benefit of anyone unaware of such details.)

I can see Dale Stevens has posted something, but I can't read it... 😇

As a new Yeti owner I cant sense the changes that have occurred over the last 9 years. However I can comment on intolerant posters as they appear not just here but on other forums. The lockdowns have created both tension and time and people have lost their sense of perspective. I feel release of tension and energies that would formerly be released by pursuing extra social activities are channelled into keyboard battles. Two large events Brexit and the pandemic have spawned two previously unknown factions. Hence a question about something car or bike based becomes entwined in political sniping. Thats my theory and I regretfully don’t have an answer as to when civility will return. The only thing I may suggest is , if the good guys leave then the snipers become the heart and soul of the forum and thus more good guys leave. So use the ignore block button and the strength of the forum regulars should prevail.

You need to have a Freedom membership to sell stuff on here. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

2011 Fabia Greenline II CR, 95K miles I've seen a couple threads of people discussing why Auto start/stop stops working in their cars after a while. The conditions are met but they still don't work after a while. The general suggestion found on this forum is to replace the battery as it gets old. I cannot see actual age of battery, but I get 12.##v with the car off, and 14.##v when on, suggesting alternator is working and battery health is ok. But I've had "Start/Stop Not Possible" message from the time I bought the car. I didn't care for it. And often pressed the button to turn it off as I'm still in testing phase of this car and observing other matters. The car needed a blower resistor as I could only use the fan on 4, and as I have a misting/condnsation problem, I need to use the fan longer on lower setting (4 is just annoying. I don't like noise). So I got the replacement part, a generic resistor, and replaced that. In order to do that you need to have the battery disconnected (so I lost my trip and MPG mesurement and whatnot but to hell with that). I started the car when I was done with fitting the new resistor, and with the fan blowing smoothly on 1, took on a 5-mile round trip, and to my suprise, Auto Start/Stop just kicked in. I drove for over 2 miles with my jaw wide open and eyebrows as high as they can get. I believe it had more to do with the car or ECU being "reset" due to battery disconnection for a while, which may be what people who change their batteries ultimately do: they disconnect the battery for a few minutes while it gets replaced. So is it really replacing an old healthy battery with a new one that is making the system kick back in, as was suggested here by someone, or is it merely disconnecting the battery, and reconnecting it a healthy energy source regardless of age. I don't know if this will be a correct assessment, but it may help someone out there or help give a better perspective on this particular issue, which seems to be fairly common in this car model. Best of luck.

Everything I can find says that the car has either a torsion beam or multi-link rear suspension (depending on model). Either way, it uses coil springs, not torsion bars.

@KeithCheetham @sepulchrave @cash3005 - Well, rather than a sensor error, my experience is that this is a false positive error on a cold engine. To the extend that it will clear on an Octavia 1 by drive about a minute, switch engine off, and restart. Hence the comment up thread about prong scraping.

Ok thanks very much.

OP should check whether that little orange engine lights up in the instrument cluster at ignition on.

OK we applied the scientific method. Replicated your links and checked the SLA1 signatures they are all identical so the same file :). On the Skoda zip file you use: On the VW 7zip, 7zip: & look at the metainfo2.txt in the route and in Mib1 and Mib2. Identical in each which means they are the same. The other way of comparing is to run the 7zip CRC SHA SLA1 checksum on each of the unzipped directories within. These all tally: Folders: 832 Files: 1574 Size: 31256300045 bytes (29 GiB) SHA1 checksum for data: F18EF2285597436B90FA3F7AE2EE1A545D1ECAF2 SHA1 checksum for data and names: EB8A20606DA52783848E7E1F8577AA7C461E95DF So the two downloads between Skoda and VW are identical if unzipped correctly. Don't know where you got your results from... suspect you got a bit of dross in one of your files perhaps during download or unzipping. MartininB gets the prize again. 🤩

Look inside your fuel filler cap at the pressure chart and you will see all the tyre sizes that were homologated for your vehicle. That does not mean that they will fit your rim width/diameter or even have been homologated for your particular model but it will give you something to go on. My winter wheel set currently on my Yeti I used on my Octavia 2 before that, I bought them from a Briskoda Yeti owner, they are 215/65R16, they filled the space better but many would not have liked the look of them preferring bigger rims and rubber band tyres to fill the arches, I could not give a four X but they do look more at home now on the high ride height "Outdoor" version of the Yeti.

Hello Sharon Agree with W193 - I suppose if he's out in the Yeti you could always liberate the RR for a thrash Gaz

The supplied spare wheel is narrower than the usual road wheels and subject to the 50mph/80mph limit for safety. From memory if you put a standard wheel in the well the floor is a couple of inches proud of the cill and even if you fully deflated the tyre I'm reasonably sure the hub width would still hold the floor proud, just not by as much.

You may enjoy Focus mode on iOS now, as you can set your phone so nothing comes through (except the people you add to a list). So you could make a Focus Mode, (Away) or (Shower) Or (Running) and listen to your music, in peace.

Bolero doesn't have sat nav...

At the annual family Christmas present distribution my wife passes me a small wrapped gift from her boss. Somewhat mystified, I opened it to find it was my lost Garmin Vivofit! I knew I had probably lost it between some big gymnastic mats when assisting loading them onto a few trucks after a big competition set down, and somehow it was found and returned to the office. Still tempted to upgrade after all my research and my son has given me his now unused Samsung Smar****ch with integrated GPS and heartrate monitor to try. Apparently he has found a Garmin more suited to monitoring all his athletic activities, especially as it can be linked to a more accurate chest heart rate monitor. Confession time: I have sinned by not running for two weeks due to a very heavy workload leading up to Christmas and then a bit of a reaction to my booster jab. I should be able to get something in over the next couple of days though.

I made a mistake, cut was £1000 from £2500 to £1500 I wrote it wrongly as cut to £1000 Apologies The threshold was cut from £35,000 to £32,000 Skoda has reissued the Enyaq price list dated 15th December and all references to some cars being eligible have gone as prices for all versions are over £32,000. Link to price list below. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/c72dfee1-ab36-40e0-b1be-9c99293156c2

For @JR RS attached the exact cover from my skoda, as I mentioned in the first post That picture I took from the internet was just an illustration. I removed the cover and nothing did actually change, will make an appointment with the dealership for diagnostics and will update after everything will be clear what actually is the problem, maybe will help someone in the future with that. Thanks for the help guys.

I would also recommend lighter 19’´ wheels, as @newbie69 did. It should improve overall response time upon full throttle.

Hi All, Merry Christmas! Yes, I can confirm after driving home yesterday (Christmas Day) that the lights were vastly improved now the lenses are clean and I installed some Osram Nightbreaker +150% bulbs. However, I found for town driving that the beam pattern is still poor for picking out nearby kerbs and other traffic islands compared to the wife's VW Polo (9N3 model) with the same bulbs. It's just a design flaw. Overall I'm happy with what I did and the time it took me - about 1-1.5 hours per headlight.

https://www.skodaclubpeloponnhsou.gr/2021/09/nea-fabia.html?m=1 Oh really? Try to read this and try to participate in the forum writing in greek language. Just try and see how "easy" it is.

According to this you need A4 stainless bolts to be equivalent to 8.8

A grey day.

The second car with 335000 km. I just love rs 😀

Canton come from the old French for corner. It can be used to describe areas cut into administrative areas. Just as Hong Kong was a canton from China, administrated by the British. And in reference to flags, to mean a 'square charge', is the area in the top left of a flag such as on Australian flags, the Union Flag is the canton within their flag.

One of the best posts I've seen in a long time.

I recently bought a 2012 Octavia with factory xenons. Although the lights were fine and plenty bright enough, I still had a set of Osram cool blue intense bulbs from my Saab that had only covered about 20k miles and 2 years so I fitted them. There was still a noticeable increase in output and a much whiter light. I do also have adaptive xenons where they adjust at lower and higher speeds etc which also helps to throw the light out.

The grille cover over the radar is generally not made of ‘plastic”’ it is a special material to allow the radar to pass through without issue. a crack could possibly cause interference and throw the beams out. if it is simply a cracked grille then you will not need calibration as the grille plays no part in this. what you have to ask yourself though is, if the grille is cracked, what has hit it and has it also knocked the radar until out of alignment.

It's not the one to the pre cat 02 sensor is it that lurks down that area but would have thought you would tell if it was disconnected.

It's not that you shouldnt use it, read above, it's they changed the compression between the files in it so it throws up 7zip errors. MartiniB used his method he recommends above (Total Commander on it I seem to recall), I used the built in File Manager unzipper of Windows. See above also... or just use the non Skoda alternatives for the 195 release. Think Skoda now assumes you use the built in File Manager unzipper, right click on the zip file within File Manager, pick the unzip, drag and drop to a new directory on HD, copy out. Bob is your Uncle. All on the thread above, 22nd / 23rd October.

1) I am Greek (100% Native) with no traveling aboard experiences and i learn english by myself with a Course book and a dictionary. If someone Non Greek can manage to login and participate to a Greek Skoda forum (i can provide him the 2 links) writing in Greek language (in the same way of learning) better than i do english here, then i publicly commit to accept my loss and delete my account in this forum. 2) Yes that's what i meant, you're da Man! 😎

I asked about the DSG oil at the start of October (the car was 4 years old then, but only had 27,000 miles on it), and got the following back from Skoda Customer Services: Re: ŠKODA KODIAQ – TMBMJ7NS0JXXXXX Dear Mr XXXX Thank you for your recent contact with ŠKODA Customer Services. I apologise for the delay in my response. I refer to your questions below which I have highlighted. a) which gearbox we have and; – The gearbox is a DQ500 (b) whether the DSG oil and filter change recommendation is time or mileage-based? – DSG oil and filter change is mileage based so it is required at 40,000miles I hope this information proves to be of use. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me and I will be happy to assist you. Thank you for contacting ŠKODA UK. Kind regards XXX XXXXX Customer Relations Advisor ŠKODA UK | Selectapost 34 | Sheffield | S97 3FA Tel: 0333 0037504 [email protected] | www.skoda.co.uk | www.skoda-auto.com"

To all my Superb mates ! May Crimbo fulfil all your dreams and may our 272 brethren awake on Christmas morning with a nice pair of flaps ! ( I hear the big man is handy with a spanner )

They were all over the place with Haldex when Skoda & VW showed it at 4 year / 40,000 miles, the VW were saying 3 years / 30, 000 miles and Skoda said 3 years but not 30,000 miles, then eventually got to 3 years / 30,000. Still to long for many cars and especially where that £85 is not even the job done properly. The DSG is definitely not at 4 years if the car is not near the 40,000 miles, but should not be left until over 40,000 miles. But then there is still the confusion over those that are @ 80,000 miles. DQ381's.

Neat idea, thanks for sharing.

Well, in short as I'm more than qualified for the job and I do this sort of thing almost daily I might as well just do it myself. If I do the job myself I know its done right and the car has been treated with respect. I work in the industry and every day I see jobs half done and a total disregard for customers cars. It's actually quite shocking sometimes what goes on TBH.

Thanks Xman, I will have a fresh look at it in early January. I might remove the rocker cover and drill a 10 mm hole bang in the centre of the oil filler neck obstruction so that a normal sized funnel would fit. That would solve the problem I think or use my electric oil pump and refill through the dip stick hole. I'll let you all know how I get on and I'll include a few pics for you. I'm working in Dubdee today so I'm going to pop into the VW workshop and ask the techs there how they do it. I'm working at Mazda which is right next door and oddly Mazda and VW share the same workshop. I will report back later this evening hopefully with news....

i spoke to one of the suppliers on ebay and he said 30mm max due to CV angles etc as you stated .. im running 225/50/17 so looking at running 215/60( or maybe 65) /17.... all depends on spring perch clearance ... im not a fan of lower profile tires since ive moved back to the uk i have noticed that the roads are in a big state of repair

Not in Borg Warners opinion. Moving torque rearwards before slip has occurred using input from sensors and lines of code is classed as pre-emptive. It's not reacting to slipping wheel when traction is already lost. That's no different really to the many different modes in more off road biased 4x4's where torque is distributed depending on mode selected and input from sensors prior to wheel slip. As an Electrical Engineer working daily with code Pre-emptive systems are common place whether you agree with the terminology or not. Definition In this case the software Prevents "Forestall" Slip by taking advance action before slip occurs.

Carts returned, refund received, original ordered, arrived today. In, working and tickety boo 👍 Gaz

Not yet as i have only been driving others EV's that come with the rubbish ECO tyres they get fitted as standard. They would very much benefit from having CrossClimate 2 or any All Weather tyres fitted. This is the 6th November last year when i had taken a run with the CrossClimate+ fitted before changing to my winter tyres to see the difference with them on the dry. It is good to know the difference with tyres fitted, but also the difference the pressures can make, but then load carried changes that. EDIT. 26th December 2021.

@Urrell British / European / Scottish born and bread and my grammar is the same what ever country i will be in. What country are you posting from? as there is such a thing as Head for thinking, feet for dancing. People here keep posting about what they have in wheels / tyres and changing them by the season. They have the tyres that they have had on cars that are keepers, the ones the car came with, the ones people are posting that they fit in winter and then in summer, and then there are those saying they now use All Weathers. So those that say what different tyres they have used and are using have had them for a few years / winters now. Then they have driven for many years or decades, surely they know what works when and where if they have still got the power of memory.

A handful of salt not just a pinch is required with lots of the tyre reviews and tests published. Since most have a car that are bothered and will know a bit of road they can drive to to test their tyres then best the do so. It will likely be a 60 mph road and the surface might be the same year on year. So take your car with All Weather tyres, choose the place you are going to brake from 60 mph in different road temps. Maybe at the same spot in Summer do the test with summer tyres, or winter / snow tyres. Do it on a warm wet day and a cold wet day. The thing with UK Sumners is they can be wet or even cold, maybe only cold at night. It is all a location location location thing. What others do o to where they drive is hardly relevant in unless it is the same as you do. Good there are free choices of what tyres each driver can fit if it is their vehicle.

Their efficiency at any speed is more than double that of an internal combustion engined vehicle. The improvements in aerodynamic efficiency have pretty much all been made in recent decades, any further improvements will be de minimis reducing frontal area will always have a major effect, we need to get back to sensible sized passenger vehicles, ones that can carry a family of 5 and still park in a standard single garage and allow the passengers to exit, ones where you can see over the roof and wash it with a sponge not requiring a stepladder. A large frontal area does not equate to a poor drag coefficient, you could build a half scale vehicle and it would have exactly the same drag coefficient. Drag coefficient is a bit of a con trick, what is relevant and what should be used is CDA, the coefficient multiplied by the surface area, I guarantee you that when a manufacturer boasts how good the CD is on their new vehicle the CDA will be significantly worse than preceeding vehicles.