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Happy days for me … ordered end July, collected today! 245 petrol manual with pano roof, Canton and wireless charging. Very happy owner who recommends Garland’s 100%.

I have the tech file on the new EA211 belts...supposed to last a "lifetime"...& this is why its not in the service schedule for these engines... UNLESS:- Your country is classed as having "High levels of dust" according to VAG worldwide service schedules....then its renew every 120,000km or 80,000miles. You could accuse VAG UK dealers of ignoring this & using the old service intervals of 5yrs/60,000miles in some of their confusing info.. I got mine replaced on the "old" intervals, as there has been the odd rare case of the new belts failing already!.. To supply & fit a new belt is cheaper than a new engine..& I hope to keep this car for a total of 14yrs...

Yes of course, disconnect the battery and call an auto electrician before you set fire to the car.

Exactly my logic for replacing the cambelt on my previous EA211 1.4TSI after 5 years.

+1 👍 I've perhaps only changed a dozen cam belts in my time, but always felt if I've taken an already tensioned/stretched belt off to invert it and inspect it properly (not at all qualified, just using common sense), then it's false economy, if not madness, to then put that belt back on again. Potentially asking for trouble. Gaz

Discovered that I get a "battery not detected" message and car won't start if the car fob is in the same pocket as my mobile, separate pockets and all good!

Hello, I am a returning member, my Skoda is a Yeti 1,2 S in flat Blue and has served me well for the last 2 years. I look forward to using this site more in the future.

Hi, I have used 15cm cable from the mirror. That's why its there

Oh no here we go again I hear you all say as there are loads of posts on this subject but none of them answered my questions, so thought I would give it a go. I have a 2019 Karok which I purchased 6 months old so the Skoda Connect wasn’t registered to me and first user was removed. I have had the car 2 years now and must say I love it, but thought I would like to see what Skoda Connect is all about, on looking on the portal I opted for a free 1 month trial (glad I didn’t pay for 12 months at this stage) 4 days later I still have not been able to get it to work. Using my iPhones hotspot or my home WiFi gave me the same result with a screen showing online configuration wizard, checking online service information with a little wheel going round & round (forever) well at least half an hour was as long as I gave it. have tried going in through settings menu, deleting Skoda connect to start afresh and did actually get to a screen giving me a registration option (success I thought) but when clicked on took me to the online configuration wizard again 🤬 Yesterday whilst at my local gym I had a full strength 5g signal on my iPhone 12 and thought I would give it another go, phones hotspot connected no problem, got to the registration screen entered my new S-pin I got from the portal, then got a new screen I hadn’t seen before saying no data link available please try again, failed again. 🤬🤬 I have called my local Skoda dealer who said they would call me back when they have some information, no call back yet surprise surprise, I have also emailed Skoda Connect who did get back to me a couple of days later asking for more information & photos saying they would get their tech guys have a look, just a waiting game now I suppose. Another point to add the little red world on the screen has never gone white during any of the connection’s I have had. looking at my system information screen my hardware is H41 and my software is 0475, I have seen mention of software updated to H480, trying update software through Amundsen just says no updates available. sorry this is so long but I wanted to give as much information as I could, can anyone out there throw any light on this problem or for that matter is Skoda Connect worth all the hassle.

That would require further investigation. I don't think in the 2 years we've had it we've ever removed the Karoq's rear seats. That because the Yeti rears live in the garage almost all the time and it's used as our van.

Sounds like you have a serious short circuit somewhere and you need to find it before you start replacing burnt out parts.

Hello everyone, I'm new here and I've come to introduce myself. I'm John and I drive a burgundy 2006 octavia ambiente. It's 1.9 in flavour 105ps in spice and 158k in experience. A good solid ol girl, I've joined the group as I'd like some advice on where to go next. She has a firm place in the family, being the longest serving mechanical member and has significant sentimental value, so another motor just won't do. Look forward to chatting with you all 🙂.

In September 2021 Auto Express were stating the following:- "Eventually, Skoda will roll-out a turbocharged 1.5-litre four-cylinder petrol engine with 148bhp and 250Nm of torque, which we expect will coincide with the launch of the Fabia Monte Carlo next year. It’ll only be available with a seven-speed automatic gearbox, and will propel the supermini from 0–62mph in 7.9 seconds." Here:- New 2022 Skoda Fabia on sale now priced from £14,905 | Auto Express There was supposed to be similar in the MKIII..which then only got the 1.2lt TSI with 110PS as the top engine.

Hi and welcome. If you ever need any help with insurance then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards. Dan.

As this question has been asked, I'll add in a bit more just in case you need/want to replace/upgrade that radio in the future. Quite a lot of the assembles or components as they are referred to, have CP which is Component Protection, what this means is that if you started breaking into cars and stealing any of these protected components, you would have difficulty using them or making money out of them as long as the owners had reported the theft and in theory they get placed on a VW Group banned register. So if you want/need to replace or upgrade one of these protected components, you can just buy a used one online as long as you trust where it came from, ie a written off car or from an owner, what happens next is, you book your car in o get CP removed from that "new" component, the VW Group Indie or VW Group dealership, check that component on that marque's "mothership" and if it is not listed as stolen, it will get returned to being a "virgin" unit and assigned to your car - and all will be well - but remember that the previous component can now not just get swopped back in as it is no longer assigned to that car, it would need returning to a "virgin" state and then assigning to that car. This is all just for information and does not change anything that @AGFalco wrote in the previous posting. I have managed to upgrade a radio from a non DAB one to a DAB one in my own car and the re-assigning of a used one from a scrappy went very well via my local proper VW Group Indie who has the correct VW Group tools and licences.

No. Only if you fit a new unit to the car, does the new unit need coding to the car. Thanks. AG Falco

Test of this product on an every day car with analogue and digital equipment.

Thanks. I have read that it may need a firmware upgrade but you need internet access for that! I have found a guy on here who seems to have access to firmware so will keep you updated

I don't disagree. If you're function over form, go for the originals. If you care about the looks, go for the cool blue ones if you want. I haven't noticed significant difference in performance though, so IMO it comes down to price and personal preference.

And 1st one of the year... A wander around trying to miss the hordes.

Worth noting that the USB-C socket near the mirror is only powered when the ignition is on, which may (or may not) be what you want/need for the dashcam if you want it for when parked, for example. I know some (all?) NextBase have a battery but I've no idea how long they last. I'm quite happy with my 522GW plugged in by the mirror, and use the cable that came with it (tucked behind the mirror) plus a 90° USB-C --> USB-A adapter.

Sensible choice, you'll be nicely surprised how little extra the insurance is for a PD over the 1.2 1.9tdi 105ps elegance would be my shout or of course... VRS 😎

Oh my days, you definitely dodged a bullet there. Anything peugeot/renault/citroen is pants (imo) buy French buy twice 🤦🏻‍♂️. However I must say, the cliosport 200 is rather nice looking... Oh no, sorry to hear about the fiat.. Although again "Fix It Again Tomorrow" haha yes I'm somewhat VAG biased these days. But then to be fair any car for free/at friends and family prices is worth a look in. Ah wow, a celebratory glass ***** to that. Mines been with me for 3 years this month and in that time the total sum of parts required for advisory free MOT sheets was £50. Can't grumble at that. Much better than the 2010 bmw 3 series that's cost me £350 in the first few weeks of owning it and with half the mileage... Do have plans to upgrade this year? Or are you building up your no claims discount first?

Hi, just joined this morning after having used the site alot over the Christmas while repairing the clutch system in my 2009 octavia combi 1.9tdi fl ( now a pre FL due to accident and used a 2006 for parts). Looking forward to the futer help of the site and maybe I might be able to help someone out too. Thanks

Hello and welcome to Briskoda. Enjoy the site.

I've just changed the Xenon bulbs on my 63 plate Facelift Elegance as the original 8 year old / 110K mile bulbs had deteriorated to such an extent that had gone from being the best headlamps I'd ever experienced when I got the car at 3 months old to being like driving with a couple of nightlights stuck on on the front. This is the downside with Xenon headlamps that nobody tells you about, even if you don't have a failure like you've experienced, the performance slowly but steadily decreases with time. I went for Osram Xenarc Original which come with a 4 year warranty. The results were quite literally like night and day and fully restored the original performance. The old bulbs were strangely enough exactly the same Osram part without any Skoda or VW part numbers on them despite I'm sure being the bulbs fitted at the factory. Personally I'd be wary of going for high performance bulbs as, if they are similar to halogen bulbs, the improved performance comes at the cost of reduced life as there is no free lunch here. Similarly I would be wary of going for bluer / higher temperature bulbs as recommended by SkeidaFin as have read these prioritise form over function, they look really good but performance is reduced in rain compared with lower temperature "normal" Xenon bulbs. YMMV but as the Osram Xenarc cool blue bulbs are more than twice the price of the Osram Xenarc Original bulbs it could be an expensive experiment if they don't work for you. Guess the question to ask yourself is whether you were happy with your headlamps before the recent problem? If the answer is yes then can't see a compelling reason to go for anything other than equivalents of the original bulbs like the Osram Xenarc Originals. Facelift cars like mine use D3S bulbs and I paid just under £95 the pair from Amazon but then had to pay local VW independent for 2 hours labour to install as it's a bumper off job to change the bulbs. I believe your pre-facelift Superb uses D1S bulbs which are currently less than £63 the pair from Amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/ORIGINAL-discharge-quality-66140-folding/dp/B00HWWX7R2) and, even better, understand that they are easy to swap without having to dismantle half the front of the car.

If it helps my dealer is honouring the 0% finance deal from July. Likewise, awaiting shipping from Emden or possible update that car is now in the UK.

Ah, mines a November 06 '56. It was a strange one how I came across it to be fair, wasn't even looking for a skoda (it's the first one I've had) but I took it for a test drive and a nice bit of road and instantly I knew.. Not looked back since. You had your fab long? Is it the PD like mine?

Thanks 👍. It's a nice colour imho, especially when treated to a nice polish. What vintage is your fabia?

Was that the 0% PCP Finance they were offering back in July and had to take delivery by 31st December? As mine is on that deal and is still in Germany awaiting shipment. My dealer has told me the 0% deal will be honoured. Hope so!

You don't have to remove it to check the inside for cracking.

Sounds like a good garage. Where have you seen this stated? Does the car have a hardcopy service book? If so have a look in there to see what the various services at various milages consist of.

Do you feel competent to inspect the belt inside and outside for cracking and/or chunking, and to measure its width? Would yo trust your mate of a mate to do this inspection, and honestly tell you whether he thinks the belt is badly worn?

Hello Doc A water pump can fail at any time, including when you've just bought it. It could be just one of those unfortunate things. I'm not sure how you can 'safety check' a water pump, given that even if they were acceptable checks, it could still fail moments later. You haven't said which engine it has. Some pumps have a known issue with a sleeve that fails. there are threads on here about that. If it's the car for you, and the problem is fixed, satisfactorily, with a potential two year warranty on the new parts, I don't see a real problem, frustrating as your immediate experience has been. I empathise. I had a turbo let go five weeks out of warranty. It was fine one second and blown the next. Because it 'grenaded' it nearly took the entire engine with it, and was a very expensive fix. But it was just one of those things and the car (Mk3 Octavia vRS) was right as rain after. Hope it gets sorted for you. Gaz Edit: Not the same model, but could be the same issue:

Hello Slugskoda, happy new year to you. I bought my Yeti new and had it about two & half years (and loved it very much) when I happened to call into our local Skoda dealer for something or other, and as you do you have a look at the cars in there, although I felt the automatic car that I was interested in was a bit too rich for me, but they did have a 6 month old demonstrator on the forecourt and ended up coming out having purchased a car 😃. The Yeti was good, but the Karoq is so much better. My Karoq is still under warranty so it should get sorted one way or another, I am sure it is something simple, well simple to them but not me, I consider myself above average with tech but for now this has me beat. The only thing I haven’t tried yet is a full factory reset on the car not just (connect) closing my Skoda Connect account and restarting everything, leaving that option as a last resort

The roof rails/rack design is absolutely superb, you could carry a pallet or whatever with the rails removed & stowed it it would be located fore & aft.

I thought that would have been obvious. I drive a lot on gravel roads, summer and winter. In drier times sometimes the dust is so thick I can't see out of the back window, and following another vehicle is something to try and avoid. Hence I change both filters several times a year. Static makes the dust stick round the door seals, on the metalwork under the seats - it gets everywhere. I did refer to this way back 😣 I was looking for some useful help in understanding the CC flap operating mech.

I have the October 2015 Skoda Uk pricelist/brochure & the costs are as follows for a vRS Metallic and pearl effect colours £360 CANTON sound system £500 Acoustic front and rear parking sensors £350 Rear-view parking camera £300 Temporary space saver spare wheel (for 17" or 18" wheels) £100 Black design package "plus". Includes black design package, 19inch Xtreme alloys, sunset glass, colour Maxi-dot trip computer. £750 for a hatch, £800 for the estate Cornering front fog lamps £105 Most of the other stuff appears to be standard fit. But your car is a 2018 & this list is October 2015, but hopefully it gives you an idea.

Good point - I secured great finance which was dependent on a 2021 completion. Also, the chaotic impact of electrification on the market, allied to the plan to keep it for some years, means that registering it in late 2021 will cost me little in real terms over my planned ownership period.

Final one of the year.... Plenty of slop still even if I bring a load home each time.... As good as a rear mudguard. 😀

Bought a superb elegance 4x4 lastweek and had no bend lighting appear with the orange bulb light. Changed the front level sensor on the suspension arm and fault is away. Just incase anyone else has this fault. Cheers

I’ve found TPS extremely cheap for oil, and of course the Quantum range is just as good or better than anything you get at Halfords, but a fraction of the price. I suspect it might be cheaper to buy direct from TPS as they always seem to have discounts on their oils. The price the OP was charged is ludicrous, and probably the guy bought the oil in bulk from TPS at around £5 a litre or less. Huge fat profit!

I have always removed the cable from each side, by just using a screwdriver as a lever, same to refit them afterwards but clean up the ball end of the cable and where it fits into and apply some grease. Also I ease the rigid brake line up out of its clip on the rear beam, doing that and removing the cable will give you more freedom of movement to get the calliper out and cleaned up etc. I like making things easy, you will do a better job probably if you can move the calliper around a bit more, these rear callipers only have a rigid hydraulic pipe on them at that area so the less you need to force bend these pipes the batter. Are you replacing the rear discs - they tend to get nasty and rusty quickly, if so maybe consider buying new calliper carrier bolts. It has been a very long time since I have needed to replace rear discs on a Polo (same bits as Fabia) 12 years at least, so I've forgotten if you need to remove the rear calliper carriers to get enough room to fit new discs. I'll be doing that job maybe this coming summer! I tend to clean up the old calliper to carrier bolts and apply blue Loctite to the threads every time I service the rear brakes - the new pads will come with new bolts that are already coated with blue Loctite paste. For maybe a bit of overkill or smartness, consider buying and fitting external handbrake lever return springs, the ones from the original VW Sharan are the ones that I have always used.

Skoda could have it as one of their 'simply clever' ideas! 🙂

Hi all I have had same problem with my key fob battery running out on Christmas Day ! Obviously, nowhere to buy batteries I was 4/5 miles from home, luckily Got a lift back home for my spare set of keys which have never been used Lo and behold, the battery in the spare set also didn’t work No warnings whatsoever, have since found out that there is an emergency way to start car Did not know this at time, so obviously blind panic set in, as in what am I supposed to do? Why do Skoda not have warning lights for this absolute necessity After all they have warning lights for everything else Skoda Karoq 2019

Car now sold, thanks for your interest and comments.

@KingRyu I was trying to tell you some batteries just die. Like Duracell. Others say they fade away. Seems like the luck of the draw. As it is Briskoda is the place where there are many Skoda Drivers that can post on their experiences. Simply clever is keep a spare battery in the car for the key.

For what it's worth, the ride in my vrs petrol with no DCC is fine on normal on crap UK roads... But only once I removed the transport blocks!

Thanks everyone for your helpful responses. I've elected to sit tight for now and perhaps address the cam belt at the 6-year service this Christmas. Meanwhile: can anyone tell me whether it's a simple job for the owner to carry out a visual inspection of the belt, for instance by removing a little cover plate with a couple of screws? (I can but hope).

The 245 has a smaller IS20 turbo which spools up faster and earlier than the bigger IS38 9shared with the Golf R) of the 272/280. My standard 245 had 400nm at 2,600rpm whereas my standard 272 had 269nm at 4,500rpm and the 272 needed revving to almost 6,000rpm to get the best from it whereas the 245 gave its best performance upto 5,000rpm. The stage 1 245 gave 302bhp and 467nm and my stage 1 272 gave 360bhp and 514nm. When I took the 245 to stage 2 it produced 336bhp and 517nm but was a handful particularly on a wet road. I remember it spinning the front tyres at a barely believeable 77mpg in 3rd gear which is dangerous. The safer, better car is the 272/280 which is a more practical Golf R and a Golf R is better than a Golf GTi. They share the same brakes 340mm vented front discs and 310mm vented rear discs but the 245 was almost 300kg lighter so stopped better (1370kg versus 1,660kg). 4WD traction was very impressive on the 272 whereas the FWD 245 struggled to put its power down. Steering probably nicer and more direct on the 245 and both cornered well with the edge going to the lighter 245. Did 29,000 miles with a manual clutch on the 245 and just over 9,000 miles in the 7 speed DSG 272. Both averaged 40mpg which was impressive the 245 had a maximum range of 530 miles from the 50 litre tank and the 272 a maximum range of 720 miles from the 66 litre tank.