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Just took delivery of mine but had to cancel some of the optional extras

Did someone ring?

Some modifications can reduce rather than raise power figures, depends on what's been modified and/or how well it's been done. Also depends on whether real world improvements are wanted or ego-figures, some tuning places can record these for those that want/need them and for themselves.

Repairing it is less work, cheaper and just as effective.

Depends on the balance of skills versus richness/ poorness. I'd repair, personally. Lots of kits to do so on ebay. fabia door loom repair | eBay

Disconnect the PAS and you'll be fine in daylight.

That's fantastic. I see that you opted for the Diamondbrite paint treatment. 👍😁

Hi All, VCDS pinged up low battery on the alarm siren (Bosch),and upon testing had a very low output noise, so I thought I would cut it open and have a look inside to see if it was the common problem of the batterys leaking. So cutting round the seam of the unit with a junior hacksaw it came apart, the batterys had leaked but on cleaning the PCB it hadn't damaged the copper tracks,this unit was different to my last one where the batterys leaked all over the components and rotted the tracks etc so a bin job ! This Bosch one was designed well as there was only a transformer and the batterys on one side of the PCB and components on the opposite side so not much to damage. I tried to find the correct edge mounted batterys,no chance,but found some normal Varta 3V150H ones so ordered them from buyabattery.co (£13.47 inc p+p for 2 ) then soldered some wires onto the ends so I could mount them on there side, and put a band of heatshrink round them to hold them together,cleaned the PCB and painted it for protection,fitted batterys and sprayed both sides of the PCB with silicon spray to keep damp at bay,cleaned the cut edges of the case with a cotton bud with meths and stuck it together with Dow Corning 3145 non corrosive sealant as I had some in stock, tested on car then refitted with metal case etc.

Component side of PCB

wrong, when installed spare wheel then reset doesn't help, warning disappears just for short time. also Cruise Control can't be activated, as result i installed full diameter tire on stock 16" spare disc -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/442912-full-size-spare-wheel/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5040470

Update from me Had a nice email Video message from the Dealer on Friday 7th Jan 2022. Saying "My car has now been given an estimated Build Week of Week 8" So fingers crossed, it wont be too far away from the estimated dates given when I ordered it.

You don’t need any of the above to get the full benifit in BHP , as for going to dark side development, we are talking about a petrol engine here … dark side are Diesel engine specialists, anyone in the know on this platform will say the only place to go for performance parts is RTMG a performance specialist based in Greece but has a shop and garage here in the Uk , mine is running 380BHP on standard internals with a hybrid turbocharger and water methanol injection ….

Curiosity got the best of me, so I had to go and check out the cubby to see whether it was an original part or not. Turns out it is original and quite more practical than having to 3D print custom stuff. There's the part number if you're interested. Also it has its own little rubber mat so coins/objects don't make so much noise, and makes it easier to clean.

Which is about enough to confirm my suspicion that the issue was a bad bead seal.

That's a good idea to test to see if the seal is allowing water passed but if it works I would then wipe the grease off as it will hold dirt and grit which the hatch area may be prone to. I would clean the area and the seal again and apply either silicone spray or silicone oil to the seal only to try to rejuvenate it and give a film barrier against water getting passed again. ETA: - If you have it you might also clean/rejuvenate the seal by using something like Autoglym Bumper & Trim Gel. - https://www.autoglym.com/products/bumper-and-trim-gel If the seal is split then of course that will need repairing, or if the seal is deformed anywhere you could try applying heat to try to reform it after cleaning and applying silicone to make the rubber more supple. If above doesn't work reapply silicone grease to only the area of the leak. It might be that the seal also, or instead of, need pulling tighter to the car body by taking up any slack in the door latch and catch. Then of course it might not be the seal but it's a good place to start your checks. Good luck.

My old Octavia vRS TDI 4x4 (2018/68) is listed nearly 6k above the price I got it for in Jan 2021, and they've had it since October '21. Jumped ship pretty quick in to a Cupra thanks to the higher prices but it just goes to show how crazy all this is at the moment.

Hi Bomber . GY F1 SS up there with PS4S , Conti 6 downside , they wear fast on the VRS. Mine are just at 3mm with 8.5k. I replaced the fronts yesterday with F1 Asymmetric 5's due to better wet handling. I would also look at the Hankook evo 3 , just came first in an autocar mag test. The Bridgies are getting good reviews but ive never had a set that i liked. All in all 4s can t go wrong , save some cash A5's the only noticeable diff would be on track

Great minds think alike, Ryan 😁

More nonsense then. 🙄 As it seems that Lane discipline and driving with a phone to your ear - both easily seen by everyone apart from Plod and easily enforceable - I fail to see how or who will enforce this one 🤔

Mine were OEM from a seller on eBay. I don't know if the seller will send to Romania but it's worth checking! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294611758996?epid=561739319&hash=item44983aaf94:g:bkwAAOSwGyteXpf5 Hope this helps.

I have the blue, the photo plus the orange simulating of dirt was an example. I had problem in the past with one with yellow collar and the stupid mechanic that install it was trying to persuade me that is the proper one but i insisted, NO. So i bought a new with blue ring and expensive and now i am reassured. My service notes helped me to understand the problem, i can call it as ''sneaky" because no one could believe that was the main cause of trouble, was hiding so well. The problem began when i change the water pump (seal leak, almost all the coolant out in the street i was luck that i found quickly a parking space and i stopped the car), something went wrong to the repair shop with the Antifreeze and then the ''downfall" came (thermostat problem, radiator switch change, 2 brand of G11 mixed with MoCool, ECU-chip needed update etc) plus the wrong valve gap and the spark plug reference. The Lambda sensor change was not necessary but i think the MAP change was. I spend hours, day or night trying to understand every time what was wrong and the scanning tools never helped me, deep inside me i believed that my notes and methodical work plus discipline will pay off. This was the main reason that i bought the TC-6, it was very expensive but with this i was able to have data to rely on and not just speculations, step after step i was making progress and with your help here i can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

That looks like the older Columbus to me. A pic of the head unit in the glovebox will help.

DSG definitely have, manual not sure, I've seen both SMF and DMF listed on Skoda-parts.com for 6 spd manual. It would make sense that ACT would demand DMF.

Hi ScottyNS, eBay touch in stick did the business for me. Such a small area that it doesn’t show up any brush strokes. A Stanley blade, or even a ‘borrowed’ kitchen knife will take care of the foam.

Yes, open them up, you won't see broken wires THROUGH the bellows unless you have x-ray specs!

Just unplug the PAS pump.

Following a little research on the last page of the Fabia Guides section, it seems Model Year 2005 was probably the start of the use of the new-style (6Y...part numbers) window motor modules, as it started on 2nd August 2004. That fits with the July/August 2004 change info in ETKA. The last MY2004 car went out of the factory on 31st July; probably with the old style modules. You can look up your production date from VIN, to within less than a month, using these threads and the pdfs contained. Tenth digit of your VIN is the Model Year number. 4=2004, 5=2005, obviously.

I'm not sure and it's hard to tell with some cars, Pete. Since there was 54-reg pre and post-FL models, possibly late reg too. Some 05's were pre-facelift but that's pretty rare due to late reg etc. Maybe someone with more experience/knowledge than myself will be able to fill in the gaps.

Finally bitten the bullet and ordered the Koni Special Actives for my 280 🤗 got a VAG specialist garage round the corner that will hopefully fit them for a reasonable cost! Larkspeed had one full set in stock and I've heard of other companies with delays on them so figured I may as well get them in now.

This reminds me of Apollo 13 when they had to try and fire up the command module At what lower setpoint does the ECU shut down the engine and ancillaries ? If Kharl knew this he could get pulled up safely before the shutdown .... Kharl if you get away with this you and your Fabia will be talked about for years to come ! Its a gutsy move to chance it but no guts no glory !

No! Not even a fully disconnected or seized turbo (which is not since it whistles) would prevent the car from starting. Just little or no power. First check the battery terminal connectors are not loose. They forget to tighten them? After that its more likely the battery has died (one cell) or the alternator is not charging. A dead battery cell can't be recharged. A battery tester will confirm. Check all wiring has been reconnected after the repair. Get it back to your repairer and get them to check their work. The other avenue to check is fuel, have you got enough diesel in the tank, has it been contaminated with petrol, has the fuel filter been changed correctly, is the lift pump working are just a few things to check

What year was your Fabia built @tbuccetti? There are two different types of window motor modules, the changeover was sometime between July and October 2004 I believe, They aren't interchangeable due to different connector arrangements, and different communications, CAN-based on earlier cars with modules having part numbers starting 6Q, LIN-based on the later cars with modules of part number 6Y...

The clips (which are rivetted to/ part of the pads so hard not to change with the pads!) were probably just a lot less shiny on the old pads, so not so noticeable. Good news is they've put that one in the right place, as an outer pad. There are subtle differences between clips on inner and outer. This image shows an inner pad on the left, and an outer on the right.

Thanks guys, you were right. Wires in the door had clean breaks. I took the loom out and soldered them for now and everything works now (including the left mirror), should do for now. Other wires are starting to go brittle and crack so I'll order a new loom from skoda (£120 Inc. VAT)

Hi, it is a 13 plate in grey, last numbers are UBU if that helps anyone, My initial thoughts were it had been mapped, with it having the "induction air filter" fitted and the upgraded exhaust,,,it has been on the dryno and got 194, as mentioned by others it may have been mapped but 194 with additional mods seems poor, when I have read as you mention some seem to have higher output as standard, I will do some more investigation... Photo of filter

No damage no. I just don't think you'll make 250 km on just the battery before the EMS decides to turn the engine off, oh and you'll get lots of actually spurious fault codes in the EMS memory.

This kind of fault is common an a different brand's forum. I don't know a lot about direct TPMS, but I have had 4 cars with indirect. In my experience you need quite a significant loss of pressure for any warning to appear, usually at least 6psi. This will give a significant difference in rolling radius. Tyres with trvial differences in diameter will not cause a warning, and the system is only any good for detecting slow punctures. It will not detect a rapid deflation or a flat tyre after the car has been standing overnight. It is a cheap system to borrow from a post about Autohold, only requiring a few lines of code. None of the systems I have experience of actually tell you which tyre is deflating, although the system ought to be able to detect which wheel is revolving faster and should be able to pinpoint the issue.

Honestly, 178 BHP standard versus 194 BHP, 16 earth shattering BHP surely must mean the standard airbox is restricting it? More likely it's the dyno that's been 'tuned' Just put it back to standard for reliabilitys sake.

Thanks, we have a newish karoq and love it, however, seem to have an issue with condensation in the cab, so finding this site very helpful, wher are you based?

Hello and welcome to Briskoda, Gordon! Nice to meet someone in my neck of the woods, being not too far from Ayr myself.

The fact that there is no lid will negate the foil wrapping - there may be some cool air through the ducting when driving but this will be mixing with warm under bonnet air. The idea of talking to someone like Darkside is to obtain info on any limitations in the induction system based on rolling road experience - as Sep advises you may add un-necessary costs but experience is better than guestimations. If you cannot locate a lid, try duct taping the opening to fully enclose the system and give maximum cool air, maybe the previous owner thought extra induction noise would give another 50BHP at the McDonalds car park bragging fest.

I took the liberty of translating Pedro’s message: ”Sorry for my writing. Today I tried the new 95CV Fabia and I liked it a lot, I put photos of the car and I tell them that I bought the one they had in the exhibition, they will deliver it to me next Thursday, it is the same as the one in the photos but it will be with six speeds and 110CV.” We definitely have our first MK IV owner!

I wouldn't be so sure. It looks original, fits nicely in the center console, has the exact same colour as the rest of the trim and has the corresponding tabs, pegs and everything

Jesus you don't mess about do you?

Any coolant leaking from the water pump means 2 things, leaking past the housing and it may not be terrible yet but will only get worse. or if it’s leaking through the shaft seal then the bearing is failing enough to cause movement. personally if a garage has said a coolant loss and a water pump fault aren’t major issues at this time I’d be looking for a different garage... just my input

they stole the back end shape from an A7, but other than that its pretty cool!

In Greece till late 80's we had tariff on the price of the fuels which means in all the gas stations no matter the brand the price was ''fixed" so it was very common to ask you by another driver ''how many drachmas burns per kilometre" (''burn'' is the slang of consumption) and it was very easy to say the amount but later came the ''liberal" government and the whole situation turned to chaos. After almost 30 years and still there are some annoying drivers which ask you the same and when you explain them that this logic doesn't not exist any longer many of them get nervous. I asked the same question here in a local forum: One said maybe about 8 litres and the other said he believes till 4 litres (both with Octavia) which means that all these years no one has ever thought deeply this matter.

looks awesome

Delivery confirmed for January 13th (hopefully not unlucky!) as vehicle has just passed the inspection at the dealer this morning!

What's the deal if you use it against another new car? At s/h prices I'm sure they will do you a good deal and then you can ride the storm till the prices reduce a bit.