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Just took delivery of mine but had to cancel some of the optional extras

Apparently cars powered by these internal combustion engines, except the few that have heated windscreens, have to wait until the great big lump of engine gets it jacket water up to 50 or 60 degrees C or more so that the air in the passenger cabin can start using that heat to defrost the windscreen. How onerous......

Their meant to be there, There are actually light sensors used to adjust the brightness of the display. here a clip from the workshop manual

I managed to capture the issue present... if it's the clutch needing bled then it can wait for now. 20220110_195911.mp4

If the waiting list is 12 months, also have to consider if you will be as enthusiastic by the time it eventually arrives. Not so much the waiting, but if something else becomes available that you would prefer (from whatever manufacturer), is on sale by the time it arrives, or the world has moved on and it has become uncool to buy anything other than an electric car. This is an example but you will get the idea that 12 months is looking at crystal ball territory

Some happy updates, I got some working codes you can have a look at them in this github project: https://github.com/simonemarin/vag-canbus, I will update that page with new findings. About the windows, there are 2 IDs , one is for the command (same as pushing the buttons) the other one is for getting the current position and the direction of the movement, so it is technically possible to move the windows to a given position. No luck with the panoramic roof though, I think that the knob is connected directly to the local controller and is not communicating with the canbus, but there shi=ould be a way to raise at least since it is possible to raise ti with the remote/key.

If spit just formed a film, without an air bubble forming...then there's no air escaping...and therefore the valve is working. If air is escaping, then you need to change the valve core. This is the kind of tool that you need to change the valve core. There's no need to overtighten the valve core, so don't use too much force. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184589472431?epid=1805249469&hash=item2afa63d2af:i:184589472431 10 valve cores (99p including postage) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160958141509?hash=item2579da5445:g:GRoAAMXQUY1Q~tNd

I would hazard a guess that the battery is weak, there tends to be lots of extra electric load (rear window, mirror, seat heaters etc) in winter. Weak batteries seem to cause multiple errors to be flagged. If you have an automatic battery charger, try fully charging the battery. Alternatively take the car for decent run (with as much switched off as possible) to get battery fully charged. However if your battery is 6-7 years old might be easier to just replace it. If you are lucky, few minutes after restart, with battery at full voltage, the errors will have cleared.

Two conflicting views 😄

yes +1 none of built in systems can be near online maps i prefer Waze for daily routes and Google Maps for abroad travels

Just been informed by dealer that status of my June 21 order has changed to “factory transit”. Not sure if this means my Kodiaq is in transit from Kralove airfield, where I believe it’s been parked up since August, back to the factory for completion or if it’s left the factory on way to Emden. At least something is happening at last, hopefully won’t be long now.

Yep, fuse 36 feeds both the dimmer and the numberplate lights.

Yes, they didn't charge me for the check although I'd happily have paid for what they did. The tyre is still up today but I've not driven far, longer journeys coming up tomorrow and next weekend.

Nowadays everyone's a size queen, the inexorable rise of soshul meedyah means numbers and charts are all anyone is interested in so most dyno operators just give the customer what they think he wants in return for a fistful of beer tokens. Big numbers = happy punters.

Dyno calibration is incredibly finicky, engine dynos are far more accurate, however if you're planning a sequence of modifications then a rolling road can be useful as long as you use the same one throughout and you tell the operator that you are only interested in consistency for comparison and not the actual numbers themselves. An operator can program a dyno to say whatever they want it to say so you can largely ignore the figures, suffice to say that 194BHP is a standard engine and the daft foam filter and the missing airbox lid aren't doing the engine any favours keeping the intake air cold and clean.

Very clear sky tonight

Hello All, After having a discussion regarding LED replacement in the instrument cluster, (search: Rev/Speedo Dial Illumination), I have written up a guide on LED replacement. I hope someone finds it useful. Tomasz Instrument Cluster LED Replacment v1-1.pdf

Nice one

Lee and I have been conversing back and forth so the plan is in motion.

Cornering lights.

I'm not sure if it makes much difference, however production appears to have increased. Car deliveries to forum members are coming in thick and fast for now! You're only a month or so behind me, so good hopefully good news is not so far away!

Thanks for the reply. I have now ordered a new boot seal. I hope that will help. I will keep you posted.

very nice find I've seen it before and partialyexplains why MY21 SeL are on 18s instead of the old models 19

As I understand it cars with Heat Pumps also have substantial heating elements just like those EVs without HEAT pumps but what Heat Pump fitted vehicles can do is when the heating element has worked flat out for a few minutes then their is a temperature delta ie difference that the Heat Pump can start working with and then after that first few minutes the Heat pump can start doing its magic and take heat from the intermediate level zone in the heating matrix and dumping it in to the cabin that has already started to warm but give it a substantial boost turning mild heat in to proper really warm air. Hence it is so important that initial warm up is done as a pre-condition with the charging cable still fitted so one does not lose a kWh or two from the battery before one has even moved off the drive. Zoe cold weather test that was confidential but was later released..... https://www.renaultgroup.com/en/news-on-air/news/renault-zoe-confidential-3-cold-weather-tests/ More noticeable in cold conditions is reduced range, but Renault ZOE remains one of the best mass-produced electric vehicles in this respect, thanks in particular to its reversible heat pump, which reduces heating consumption in cold weather and generates approximately 2kW of cooling or 3kW of heat with just 1kW of electricity.

Just an update on this thread, I now have the templates, but haven't gotten around to fitting my roof rails yet. After I have fitted them I will make the templates available for what I paid for them (£50). Many Thanks, Sparkgap.

Pump the tyre up and see if air is leaking out of the valve. You can put a bit of soapy water on the end of the valve to check for air bubbles, if you can't hear or feel air coming out of the valve. It's the valve core that is designed to stop the air leaking, not the valve cap. The valve cap's job is to stop dirt getting into the valve core, although the valve cap does provide a secondary seal.

I think there are a few quality comparisons that have been made on this forum regarding the Mk2 to Mk3 Octavia 'features', where the older mark has been more reliable and better-engineered than the 2014-18 models. Given that things like lower-engine mounts, colour-schemed spoilers of '230' (/ special edition), and certain other parts seem to be fitted dependent on what side of bed the factory engineers got out of that morning... guess it's dependent on who built the car at factory in terms of the 'luck' received 🤷‍♂️ Mine has been good up until now, only issue was a sticking turbo actuator (which, again, appears to be common on the EA888). My friend is taking his 2017 Golf R through a Sachs clutch upgrade in the next month or so with The Phirm, and I've informed him of your experience. So will definitely ask him to check with them on the main / engine / gearbox oil seals and replace if possible, since everything's apart - as you say. So you may already have hopefully 'saved' +1 person by informing them of this issue. Wish you only good luck onwards for the future fixes, hopefully it'll come back and continue to be the 'OEM+' car you were hoping for in the first place ✌

Cheers Ads230. Yes I am getting a load of luck, trouble is it's all bad. Lol. As for the engine oil seal that was not leaking. Seeing as though it's all coming apart again, I asked them to renew it at the same time anyway. I believe there is an upgraded rear engine oil seal they will be fitting. Never had any real problems with my old MK2 Octavia VRS TSI, apart from needing a new inlet manifold at 30k miles and I traded that in at 104k miles for my present car. That MK2 was also mapped as well. Hopefully after all this work, it will be reliable for a while now.

They don't need one; ACP has stored the radio code in EEPROM in the main body ECU since the Octy 1 was introduced. The fact of a new battery does need programming to the car though.

To be fair, the Stellantis cars have a single bi-directional heat pump, which is cheaper but has disadvantages (not able to heat cabin and cool battery at the same time for example). The Enyaq has a PTC to heat the battery, a PTC to heat the cabin, a heat pump to cool the cabin (ie aircon) and optionally a heat pump to heat the cabin. From the horrendously complicated diagram I found in the workshop manual, it's possible both heat pumps are capable of cooling or heating the battery coolant system too due to heat exchangers in the system. But it's not that clear whether this is the case or not, so I wouldn't like to say for certain. It's be nice if there was some proper VAG documentation about how the heating/cooling system works in the MEB platform in the public domain, but sadly nothing I can find. I've got bits of the workshop manual that I downloaded from ErWin after a friend let me use their account for a 15 minutes before their 1 hour time slot was up, but not as much as I would have liked to have downloaded. Might have to pay myself and get some more bits

Had a dealer update this a.m. - Car has been 'released' but it'll be about 4 - 5 weeks before it arrives no mention of any missing toys - 22 Reg it is then........I ordered end of May build started week 29.

I did have sunroof drains modified as recall, but had no issues before that. But if you haven't had it done might be worth doing as it's obviously been an issue on some vehicles.

Yeh, it's all relative though. It got up to 24 degrees later in the day, which is pretty cool for the time of year. Today the wind has a more Northerly component bringing the heat from the interior so 35 degrees max and only dropping to 24 degrees overnight. The temperature does not worry me too much except when there is also direct sunshine, it can be rather intense. Good for the PV panels though I did more early morning walking and swimming today which has markedly reduced the calve pain. I'll see what tomorrow brings as my casual work has been cancelled due to general fear of the expanding covid infections persuading people to avoid big events. Funnily enough not just government mandated restrictions.

It's a Mk2

Thanks TheUltraRunner and SoupDragon. That helps make sense of the poorly written instructions. Just a shame Škoda couldn’t be bothered to get a decent proof-reader to look at the translation into English before they committed the information to print. It’s all very well the others dismissing a seemingly innocuous query about closing the bonnet, but if people had damaged their bonnets by not following Škoda’s instructions exactly, how many would have accepted responsibility for the damage, and not blamed Škoda. I’ve owned cars for over 50 years and never had a problem closing bonnets before. However, new cars today are increasingly complex and have many built in subtleties which, if not understood properly, can result in damage if correct procedures aren’t observed. Many drivers seem to adopt the old adage ‘if all else fails, read the instructions’. I prefer to read them first. Thanks to all who’ve replied to my call for help. Case (and bonnet!) now closed.

I have never felt so personally attacked!!

Air filter mounting? On my car, that's a hole for the engine cover I just got rid of the cover anyway, it vibrates against the engine and sounds like a tractor no matter how tightened it is. Also makes working on the engine and washing it a lot easier.

It's still under warranty book it in to get checked, mine did something similar it was a a dry bush sorted under warranty.

I've been pipped at the, er, post, but here's mine anyway. Just as a ballpark comparison comparing like-for-like even factory standard cars is fine but even then you can't really compare one set of rollers too closely against another set and even if you have the same car in the same state of tune you can get different figures on different days. Same as with error codes and diagnosis it's a lot about the interpretation that leads to better results of different runs on the same day and sets of runs on different days. The rest was going to be as above - " if you're planning a sequence of modifications [or servicing/maintenance improvements or just alterations] then a rolling road can be useful as long as you use the same one throughout and you tell the operator that you are only interested in consistency for comparison and not the actual numbers themselves." ETA: though the numbers themselves, as a comparison only within your car, can be of use. In the same state and state of tune with use of the vehicle over a period of time the figures could rise but then fall and things settle then wear.

Yep, 2 SD card slots, one for the Navigation data and one for your music……….Skoda Nav normally only works with genuine Skoda cards.

Hello and welcome to Briskoda! Your Octavia looks very nice, especially with the shine on the paintwork.

Kamiq ordered in July 2021, now showing build week 4. We'll see. 🙂

The water pump on the 1.9D (all tunes, even the PDs) is driven from the cambelt.

Anyone any tips for removing these on a 2011? Got the small piece out from the centre of the grille but cannot for the life in me work out how to get the fog light blanks free. thanks!

I applied some though.

Next on the list of factory retrofits: Petrol webasto parking heater with remote function DCC suspension Canton sound system the webasto was never an option in the U.K. but you get a lovely option to have the car pre heat before you leave for work in the morning on cold days. DCC because my shocks are starting to leak so why not and canton because I do over 100 miles a day and like my music. photo of what the menu will look like:

Hi folks, So after a lot of looking, I’ve finally bought a 2019 SE Technology Combi. It’s the 150 Manual version, and I should be collecting it this week. It’s been imported from the Nottingham area, and had 77,000 miles on it. Dealer is doing the TB for me so I’m happy enough with that, but when I had it out for a test drive, the sat man kept saying no media present, or something to that affect! Am I right in thinking that the nav is on an SD card, that’s obviously not there? It should have it, and is advertised as having nav, so just trying to find out before collection so I can get the dealer to include it. I’m new here, can’t wait to pick up the car, will post pics once I have it. TIA, Paul.

I got Continental EcoContact 6s

They have fixed it remotely without you even knowing.