Leaderboard

Collected my VRS iV estate/combi this evening ordered end of July in UK. Looks great in Race Blue at night but not had chance to get a proper look or drive yet. Options fitted are DCC, Canton, blind spot/side assist, rear camera, wireless charging, front and rear winter pack with tri-zone climate, virtual pedal. Picture taken in near freezing conditions and car starting to ice over. Good luck to forum members on getting their cars quickly. Worth the wait.

Now fixed It was the DSG thermostat

Firstly thanks for all the input, finally after 2 months I get to see a copy of the old log book apparently shredded after it was digitally actioned to DVLA but a scanned copy is kept on file at dealer. Vehicle was a dealer demo, owner was Skoda Auto 036365 hence nothing has ever been done regarding reporting or resolving all the “ glitches” So I am getting the FULL new car experience that all the other unfortunate owners got a year ago. Thanks again, topic closing answer found.

My AGM has always undercharged in a conventional charging system. 12.1V is the maximum it has ever charged to.

Just boughtnumber 634 couple weeks ago over the moon with it porthmadog north wales

Likely to suffer overcharging if used in a conventional fixed-voltage charging system. See article about AGMs at battery university.com BU-201a: Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) - Battery University

For info the OP hasn't logged in since last May after asking his question 18 months earlier. Just as a general point though, Briskoda is a place where a community spirit thrives and as such, there can sometimes be off topic posts that just add a touch of character to the answer. How boring would the world be if all the answers were of a yes - no type?

A million times this! But if anyone care about my subjective experience - the matrix lights in the new Kodiaq are far superior than the LED lights in the old Kodiaq, even before you get to the matrix functionality. They are brighter and throw light much further.

A ‘72’ plate will be worth more than a ‘22’ plate. Try and hold out for a September registration…

Just this minute succeeded. Whilst trying to find the G Spot to release the tab I used a large screwdriver to exert a little push on the cover in between the cover and the main part of the dash so that if and when I did find the release tab the cover would spring over - and it did - with a satisfying little "snap" sound. Added some grease to all the sliding surfaces plus I found a little spring in the toolbox, trimmed it down to size and added it to the existing spring to give the two sliders a bit more oomph. The original spring looks quite weak given it has to operate two sliders and overcome the friction of the mating surfaces etc. Both protruding prongs now catch their respective holes and the lid now closes (and holds) 100 times better than it did. Much obliged.

Just press the lock button once on the remote.

It is fiddly as there is very little to catch with the screwdriver. try to lever it to the left at the same time. It will just go .. There are pictures that may help in this guide by Great Yeti:- https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_PHfAZM-GYCZmE3ZWJhOTItZWRjNC00NTdiLTg3MDctMjhiNDMxOWRiYzEy/view?hl=en_GB&resourcekey=0-9gAGuZnk-9t5rSphfThhuw

I'll try tomorrow ...😴 Thanks again

Seems I may have got it the wrong way round as per @Winoin any case AGM cannot be substituted for standard due to charge voltage incompatibility and associated risk.

I use several of these in the house and have spares incase they get damaged from use and stop working. Has blocked every key signal I’ve ever tried and is piece of mind at night.

As above any codes? Does it always feel like it's on 4 cylinders - injector wiring loom known to fail intermittently. The control systems for turbo variable vanes and EGR can also cause problems. And as mentioned above the turbo variable vanes can seize up/ stick . Tandem fuel pump (combined vacuum pump/fuel pump) can also give trouble. Any smell/leak of diesel? Presume clutch not slipping?

give it the full rev range for a while and that should blow alot of the built up gunk etc out the back end, and bring it for its test. unless you have genuine cause for concern and youve kept up the general maintenance, i would imagine you shouldnt have much of a problem with your emissions test

If my car arrives in time, it's first trip will be a 600 mile round trip to Scotland and back, hopefully with some fun miles in between! That should help me nicely, on the way to a full run in! 😁

Hello! Back to the topic, the issue was that cracked grill, dealer changed the grill cover and calibrated the sensor. Cost me 160 Euros.

yes with obd 11. if you have it then u can do 1 click app deactivations otherways 09 central electrics - adaptations - waschen - waaschen one KL 15 - active - NOT ACTIVE - RVC waschen HMI - active - NOT ACTIVE HEADLAMP WASHER system - anzahl betaetigungen frontwaschanlage pro SRA aktivierung - mine was set to 10 th time - SRA bei waschwassermangel - active - not active

If it is your car, the dealer probably won’t care if you pay for it, so if you want a 22 plate offer to prepay. But you will have to raid your piggy bank, as finance company won’t advance the balance until it is registered. If you don’t want to stump up the money, stop moaning and accept current plate. You seem to be forgetting that once delivered to dealer Skoda might want paying for it without waiting for some arbitrary future date

I'll keep you posted... 👍

Thanks folks 👍

Our Fabia's original 12-valve motor made it to just over 175000 miles, with in all honesty a driver with very little mechanical sympathy during our ownership. I've yet to strip it down to confirm, but my impression is that it was the bottom end that wore out, and that would fit with it being driven without great care about which gear was actually appropriate at any given time. Edit: it also had a serious clutch fault during its last months, that I was very slow to understand, which can only have hastened its demise. Obviously if it's given good oil regularly, and not driven on too many short journeys where it doesn't get up to temperature, it will help any engine last longer. I suspect there is a fault to be found on yours @Auxiliary; do you have VCDS? The freeware version should let you look at measuring blocks of the engine ECU where you could perhaps scrutinise the misfire counters for each cylinder and see if the numbers increase with the judders, which seems likely. I can't remember if they give you an individual cylinder breakdown of that stuff, but I suspect so? It might be useful to see if they are random or focussed on one cylinder. (Or there aren't any at all)

As far as I am aware the tow bar prep includes physical electronics and reprogramming to allow a tow bar to be fitted in the future. Remember you have to take into account the extra wires that will need to be attached to the electronics of the car (not as simple as splicing in some wires like in years gone by) as well as telling the car about the potential extra weight, stoping parking sensors going crazy amongst other things). I don’t think you can easily fit a tow bar without the prep and I fear your dealer may given you the wrong advice. I hope I am wrong and you can do it but that was my understanding. Anyway, It makes no difference that you are only using it for bikes as the nose weight of a fully loaded bike rack can be just as much as a caravan. Most of the weight of a caravan is on its wheels, there’s isn’t much weight going onto the tow ball compared to its overall weight. If you have multiple bikes on a rack you can easily exceed the nose weight capacity of the tow car, especially easily if you are carrying e-bikes.

Yes.... it seems we all are test bunnies with zero support. The software was apparently written by someone from high school.

Standard 504.00 oil is 5w-30 suitable for most european climates. Standard 502.00 is what the BZG was factory filled with and is probably what it was designed in mind for and is usually 10w-40. But lots are 5W-30 nowadays. Once your car starts consuming oil, (as opposed to leaking oil), there is nothing you can do. Heavier grades may temporarily reduce the rate of consumption but will accelerate the wear. Valve stem/guide wear is a symptom of poor lubrication, poor/wrong oil but usually neglected overdue oil changes. HTP engines are not really suitable for variable/flexible/extended service regimes. Change Oil at 9,300 miles(15,000km)/1 year max. If doing mainly short journeys where oil rarely reaches working temperature for a decent length of time is classed as harsh operating condition so you should change oil sooner.

I drive vintage buses. One of the buses I drive is a Class 6 and falls under the new 10 year rule. The vehicle was off the road because the two front tyres went out of date, and the owner bought 2 replacements. The replacements were both over a year old, so instead of getting another 10 years he only gets another 8 or so years. The tyres will never wear out. Also, the manufacturing dates are on the tyres, but on some, if not all, the date branding is only on one side, so this causes a problem if fitted with the date on the inside.

Unfortunately all your doing here is talking about your experiences rather than trying to actually help the OP. These items are wear items and are cooled passively by the air entering the heater matrix before the air is either cooled by the AC or heated up by the coolant so the cooling is dependant on the ambient temp, they resistors do get VERY HOT and do fail after years of constant use just like any wear items on cars. Unless you are going to actually help the op please refrain from filling up the forum with useless posts that are just creating bloat to a simple question.

Its not a sympathy thing, just facts sorry. And its not down to the finance agreement to decide that, its the DVSA. I think youll have to look into who actually owns the vehicle sorry, a V5 in your name clearly states at the top 'this document is not proof of ownership' so sorry to say but when you purchase a car on finance/lease you dont own the car fully until its completely paid off then the car legally belongs to you, up until that point that is why you have to notify the finance company of any modifications prior to doing them and any accidents. What was the estimated arrival time for your car originally? What if your car turned up in december, would you ask them to hold onto it without registering for 3 months? what about october, 5 months? Where do they or you draw the line? A little info for you on V5 registered keeper/proof of ownership https://www.westyorkshire.police.uk/ask-the-police/question/Q743 sadly its down to the fine print, as the lease company paid for the car its theirs, you sign a contract with them to pay a set amount back then at the end of it they will transfer that ownership to you, or they will take the car back.

Definitely no torch on mine, as predicted. But I confess to having a little bit of a torch fetish and there's no shortage of portable light within the car. My most recent purchases are a Fenix LD30 (which is a proper little cracker) plus a couple of real cheapie Lithium Ion 18650 lights from Amazon. Really cheap but, considering the price remarkably well made and handsomely bright with strobe and SOS. I keep the SOS lights handy in case I ever broke down in a vulnerable position and could use them to warn oncoming traffic (I'm thinking smart motorways where a breakdown in a live lane would be frightening and even if the light wasn't strictly legal I think I would take my day in court if nicked for it). Just been and had the battery tested with a meter at the garage - all appears correct. Thanks for responses.

Depending on where you buy from that may not be that unusual. The sidewall of the tyre will also tell you the country of manufacture, if you look at that you might get further surprises.

Sounds fair in my opinion. Seen as you are using a finance option the car is technically not yours meaning the finance company will want it registered ASAP, they are giving you a courtesy to let you pick the plate but in all fairness they are welcome to pick it, register it and give the car to you. As well as that a new and paid for car has to be registered within a set time scale on delivery and they arent going to hold onto so many peoples cars for a month just for the 22 plate to roll around.

Good read so far and ignore part of my private message lol. One word though I'd get the tyres changed on the UP GTI alloys, if you're using them, to 205/40/17. The other size tyres are rare and hard to come by, although I may have some if you want, and break easily in potholes. The other ones are much more hardy and are recommended via the UP GTI owners group. (I've used them and wouldn't use anything else on them).

In the mean time, I had some fun with decoding the vin, couldn't find any info on the engine code but digging around, pretty sure it's correct. TMB K U 7 NE 8 J 0 1 TMB SKODA TMB SKODA (CZ) VAG TM Czech Republic 2 K K - Combi, right-hand drive, 4x2 3 U DLBA 4 7 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag 5 NE 5E - OCTAVIA III, OCTAVIA COMBI III 6 Check digit to validate code 7 J MY2018 (ie manufactured between summer 2017 and summer 2018 8 0 Mladá Boleslav Waiting is torture! 🤣

As Graham says, the 2011 cars wouldn't have had the removable torch (mine is a 2013 Elegance) and the boot light does stay on for a long time after the boot lid goes up - I've often thought it stays on far longer than necessary. (Having a light on both sides of the boot seems a sensible idea, whether one of them is removable or not. One of those simple ideas that should be standard).

I would still be pulling it out to check connections. If it's that unit you could get a 2nd hand one. You can get the model number in settings under system information.

I always fill up at Shell, but get the non-premium diesel (is the closest to my commuting route and only 2 to 3 cents more expensive than the gas stations in my town, so what the heck). However, I never rev higher than 2500 RPM in normal driving (got to love 6th gear cruising) apart from the 2nd to 3rd gear switch. So I probably should do the Italian tune up. The car has just passed 307k miles and has gotten a replacement cat about 8 years and 160k miles back, doing about 18k miles a year since then. Maybe it's time for a new one? I don't know I will see if the things you mentioned will help and I will just see what happens at the emission station. Thank you for the reply!

I've had similar issues on a Roomster. So some tests: 1) With the engine off if you push the brake down once hard and release, then repush hard - it should be hard with the pedal stuck high up and no creep downwards with sustained hard pressure. 2) Keeping the pressure on the pedal then start the engine. The pedal should drop down a little and then still remain firm. My Roomster on test 2) the pedal almost went to the floor. It was due to air in the ABS and I had to do the ABS bleed procedure with VCDS. After bleeding the ABS all was perfect, note a normal brake bleed would not of cleared the ABS of air on that model. I'm unsure if the Yeti ABS unit has a similar procedure or it will air bleed using a normal pressure bleeder.

I'm a Canon shooter, but recently bought a used Sony A7 as a walkaround camera. It's full frame, small mirrorless form factor and it only cost £375 or so from WEX cameras. Best of all, although the camera is physically several years old, it's only done 4,500 shots A cheap fast Tamron lens and I'm good to go I wouldn't recommend the camera for fast action shots, which are the main things I shoot, but for landscape and portrait type things, it's a nice camera with excellent image quality. It's not too hard to get your head around the software either, which is a bonus for me and my slightly feeble brain

3 out of 7 people in my department at work are from the UK...😂 What's a few more...👍

Do you have an EU Certificate of Conformity with the car? You are legally entitled to a free one, if Skoda haven't issued one before (e.g. to a previous owner). It is the definitive legal document for that particular car (they are VIN-specific). Field 18.4 will tell you the maximum unbraked trailer weight that it has been type approved to tow.

Is it brand new? If so, why you using a cable. Mine has wireless android auto and crapple carplay.

Update from the dealer on mine today. VRS estate hybrid ordered mid Sept. No additional options selected. Unconfirmed build date of week 17 so potentially deliverable late May. I won’t be holding my breath😄

The mystery solved. Two spark plugs and one of the ignition coils we diagnosed to be faulty. The plugs were split in half. It is unkown how they bacame so damaged within a short period of time.

Fused at 15 Amps I think, so not much more than that.

just splice / copy the same feeds from the front light

Concur with Carlston - 245/45 18s been great on mine - Michelin Cross Climate+ fitted over a year ago - I’ve found them great in wet, snow, and dry so kept them on through last Summer - I think these are now superseded by Cross Climate 2. I invested in an OE set of 18” wheels after damaging one of my original 19s on a low kerb.

I like Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons. Not sure if they come in your size. Michelin Cross Climates get good reviews. Black Circles have them your size. https://www.blackcircles.com/tyres/235-45-18?seasonal=allseason

Thanks guy's for all the suggestions. I eventually used the cable recommended by Mark Miscock https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075M4CQHZ but in conjunction with the left angle cable from this set https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072B821VV I simply used a piece of heatshrink over the connector to prevent them coming apart and then hid it under the headliner. I'll upload a few pictures when I get home but it looks very tidy and professional looking. My only concern is that the battery life in the Nextbase is cr@p and I doubt it would last a night in standby mode. Anyway, many thanks again to everyone especially Mark Hiscock. John