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Hey guys and girls been very quiet lately due to work commitments but the project is still coming along , say hello to an OEM dual mass flywheel from a dq250 1.4 tsi golf , it weighs in at a whopping 10.6 kg so I have had it sent off to make a ultra lightweight flywheel here in the Uk 🇬🇧 hoping to get it a single mass flywheel instead of a dual mass with a weight of 3.3-4kg will be an absolute rocket with a weight saving like that as the dq250 is slightly heavier than a dq200

I just got an exciting update from Skoda. Apparently my car has now been built and is on a ship underway to Australia. The ETA for delivery has been stated as 14th July 2022. That is almost exactly 11 months after I placed my order.

Glad you said non expert. The engine oil is the primary engine coolant, it takes combustion heat directly from the underside of the pistons, it also takes heat from all the bearing surfaces, all of this is heat that will therefore not need to be removed by the water cooling system. It is not cooled by the water circulating in the coolant channels in the engine block, it is cooled (and heated) by the water to oil heat exchanger part of the oil filter housing. The only reason that this heat exchanger can help raise the temperature of the oil from a cold start is the clever VAG water circulatory system during the warm up phase with the sliding sleeve water pump and auxiliary coolant pump(s) on a more basic engine the oil will get hot before and quicker than the coolant and those equipped with an oil cooler would also have a thermostat to prevent the coolant from cooling the hotter oil during the warm up. Nobody has yet mentioned that the water temperature guage will show a rock steady indicated 90°c for any temperature between 70°c and 110°c. My oil temperature regularly exceeds 120°c when I am towing, I would not expect it to do so cruising at the NSL during moderate temperatures. I would compare the maxidot indicated oil temperatures with a measured temperature using a probe down the dipstick tube, I would want to be sure that I could trust the indicated reading before doing anything else, I know for sure that I cannot trust the water temperature guage reading. It is indeed possible that the silkat crystals have partially blocked the radiator (they wont have blocked the engine water jacket) and that both the oil and water temperatures are too high as a consequence.

The amount of time ive been working on cars... I can assure you using the wrong coolant causes 2 things - jelly like substance or corrosion to the cylinder head if ally - not a quick process and happens over 1000s of miles and years. What youre doing here is conformation bias, youre looking for things that support your line of inquiry rather than facts - random websites and forums with out dated information and people with 'trust me bro' knowledge is not a reliable source. The reason youre chasing leaks is simple - a leak allows pressure to be lost, pressure will leave via the easiest point, the weakest. You fix the leak which is the weakest, that pressure then finds the next weakest spot to escape and it carries on. The photo you posted its hard to tell but its either leaking from the side of the head and running round or that head gasket is fubar. My guess is the latter. If your head gasket had failed this badly as you say from incorrect coolant, all the seals would be falling apart and water pump, thermostat, headgasket to oil and to cylinder would all be leaking.

Forth service and second MOT done today. Mileage is 36K. Booked in for an MOT at 9.15 this morning. Left the car with them just before 8.30. Was given a complement by the MOT tester, I like doing your car's they are always clean / looked after. Phone rang at 9.17 to say MOT is done, passed with no advisories. Did big 4th service after. Cabin filter is above the passengers foot well, two push in clips to open at the end that is closer to the seat. Filter was dirty. Air filter housing on top of engine is a pull off / push on fitting with one small rubber pipe to disconnect as well. Sump plug at back of sump with a 19 mm head and new crush washer fitted. Oil filter on the lower front of the block. Spin off type and used a Boa Constrictor strap wrench to loosen. While the oil is draining I changed the air filter. About 1 dozen Torx 20 screws to open air filter housing, old filter not dirty but still fitted new one. Don't yet refit housing. Spark plugs are under coil packs that are under the ( removed ) air filter housing. One electrical clip per coil pack to pop off and then one 10 mm bolt that holds the coil pack down, then pull up gently to remove. Use a small 10mm spark plug / 16 mm Hex socket with a long extension bar to remove spark plugs. These were worn but were a good colour, new spark plugs fitted then refitted coil packs and air filter housing. Filled engine with just above 3 Litres of oil and check level. Start engine, let settle then check / top up oil to max. Bosch filters and 3 NGK spark plug were under £40.00. I have three cars that can all use the same oil so I buy this in 20 Litres containers as it is cheaper. Reset service indicator using OBDeleven and updated the car's Skoda Digital Service record via ERWIN. Will swap the Winter tyres for the summers in about a months time. All good. Thanks, AG Falco

Good morning Boots, very unlikely to be an issue - try the website 'Will they Fit' really usefull site where you input all the numbers and you get all information you need regarding the change. You have had most of the life out of the old tyres, are you able to read the date code on the old ones?

For anyone interested, cylinder head was removed and pressure tested, found to be leaking through a crack between the water jacket and exhaust valve housing in cylinder 2 so not really repairable... 2nd hand head purchased pre-skimmed and valves lapped, pressure tested all good so fitted and engine rebuilt with fresh gaskets and new cambelt and waterpump kit. Up and running sweetly, no coolant loss apparent, hopefully it stays that way!

Gently pull the wire, there is about 2 cm of cable inside.

As a serious mod to @TMB suggestion, my Dad and I used to Hammerite the sills right up to the door shuts, sometimes more than once.

Yes, once in a country it takes very small amount of time to get it at the dealer. I said 2 weeks max(1 person i know waited 12 days and even that because of some stupid error). Usually it is few days because Slovenia is a small country, and everything is so close. I am not really sure how long does it take to get to Slovenia, but can`t be more than a week or two. UK is of course a different story, i believe that you get different dates there

Don't exaggerate, they are far worse than that, bull **** has some uses!

How do you tell a CRA is lying to you? You can hear their voice.

Might be worth trying one of these repair kits: vw lock barrel repair kit: Search Result | eBay

a bit of a surprise tonight my weekly update says my delivery update has been pushed back by just 4 days.instead of normal months by months then onto week by week push backs. is this positive news? it is the first time i have had a only 4 day push back.is there light t the end of the tunnel ?if so it will make it just shy of 48 weeks since ordering.fingers crossed.

Best case scenario, the tow bar only needs freeing off with some lubricant. The upper glove box could be really simple fix also. Have you tried tapping the cover whilst pushing the button in may just be stuck. Both jobs should be an easy fix for any competent vehicle tech.

Seriously not going to significantly affect the gearing on a 220 VRS! - I run 4.9% diameter increase for my winter tyres on my lowly 1.4 and do not feel or see any significant difference apart from reducing the error of my speedometer to approx. zero.

The VW lithium grease is about £50 a tube... for anyone wanting to use the exact same stuff but 10x cheaper, multi purpose lithium grease in a tube from eBay/amazon is the exact same stuff Only issue with this stuff is, it doesnt last forever. Instead i would recommend Morris K99 marine grease - £10 a tub and will last a lot longer and much more water resistant meaning it will last years without issue

Because I wasn't well enough to do anything before. Thanks all. Really helpful.

Looks alright to me for the money. But I'm an armchair expert and nothing beats seeing it in the tin, sitting in it and going for a drive. I've sat in cars I liked and took an instant dislike to them once behind the wheel (Prius and a Mokka), and others I really didn't want to like but found them really rather good (Leaf, new shape Micra). Maybe time for you to go looksy. Gaz

Right a bit more info. Interim service 2016, interim service and brake fluid change 2018 and this month has had service, commensurate with age, whatever that entails plus cambelt and water pump Not sure what happened between 2018 and now, probably nothing. Is a Euro 5 Now re emissions. As stated by dealer 'With regards to the emissions status the vehicle was not impacted so did not need any work doing ie. It did not require the engine management changing or a new flow device fitting' So do we think it is worth £11k? Comparing with others out there price seems fair to me, but what do I know? Nothing when it comes to Skodas hence on here😊

Yes, the third different coolant in the first month after the new engine. Would you use the most expensive coolant in a new fitted engine without having 100%sure it is leak free? For testing purpose i think it is a wise measure to use temporary fluid in order to check everything is ok. What i want to highlight here is the fact that i used two coolants and i got the leaks immediately after using the third. because i have very little free time i come here to ask instead visiting workshops in my country and because i need a reliable car because when the car is down i am loosing lot of money.

Finally got round to replacing the radar cover 😁

This is the third different coolant in a MONTH? Do you not have anything better to do with your time? You don't even live in a cold climate for crying out loud.

It's worse these days, stretch bolts are rock hard and can't really be drilled out, spark erosion is often the only option but you can sometimes weld a nut or bolt onto the snapped thread. Best avoided all round, better to replace the old bolts one at a time with new ones. It is possible that the new coolant is really a penetrant in disguise but it's far more likely that the head was not skimmed before refitting. If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing twice, amirite 😉

Haha, yes the one from CR is an original with genuine skoda black magic metallic paint so it fits perfectly with the black grille frame. It is a lot of money for a badge though I agree.

Hi I'm driving back from Switzerland to NI and may need some engine oil. I RTFM but there's no specification. Anyone know where i can find the official Skoda recommendation. I did a search of this site. TIA Castrol uk says Castrol EDGE 0W-20 LL IV

Answer from main dealer

Yes, it is a 4-digit code preceeded by letters DOT, enclosed in a elongated round, moulded circle.

You got the oil you need in the is first post. Sadly Skoda never make anything simple with oil like in an owner's manual. 'contact a dealer' type rubbish. TDI,s need the long Life oil. And that to suit the DPF,s they have. @UndertheRadar. My apology. I missed the TSI. And somehow thought TDI, please excuse my ignorance.

And clutch packs get replaced. Even within 3 years. There are dealerships with all the gear, techs with training. Maybe just not enough with experience of DSG,s. You do not want to be the one with your car getting someone's first try at a fix of. Refurbishing has never been a main dealership thing where many are Fitters. Hence the best trained go set up as an Independent or go work for one.

No problem at all thankyou for trying to help me out

NO!!! These kits are complete male bovine faeces!!

It is the wrong advice, because they're stretch bolts they snap very easily, one "ping" and it's all gotta come apart and getting the snapped bolt out of the block may prove impossible.

I was told that VIN number is assigned in the 7th, last stage of production, and 8th being the transport. I think someone posted these stages in the thread, but don’t have time to scroll through all the pages again 😉 So before reaching that stage it can stop due lack of parts. So even though mine in supposedly in production since this week, I won’t believe it until it arrives at the dealers parking lot.

Thanks, man. Hope it won't happen again anytime soon 🙂

Ultimately your real world mpg will depend on how you drive it. The 2 litre (220) and 1.5 litre don’t weigh much difference so driven back to back would use similar amounts of fuel. It’s basic physics about amount of energy to move a mass etc. Slightly wider tyres will cause more drag at higher speeds. There is marginally more friction in bigger engine. Of course if you plant your right foot and accelerate faster and use the extra power then car will use more fuel. The 280 version is heavier, has a four wheel drive system that uses extra fuel, and can be driven in a much more sporty manner. If you intend to use all that power then probably going to be putting fun ahead of economic driving

You are correct. Two gloveboxes - the larger left button opens the lower, the adjacent square right button opens the upper. It's poetic licence describing it as electric. What happens is you pull the switch in the boot and this releases a catch on the spring loaded towbar, it drops down and you manually lock it in to position. Same with stowing it away, you pull the button to release it, then manually push the towbar back it to it's 'stowed' position underneath the car. When you say it 'whirrs' - it might be the catch isn't releasing or I'm just wondering if it's correctly stowed away - i.e. is it in it's locked position? Nut covers were notorious for coming loose on earlier cars. The white 'milky' coating is actually a form of corrosion - it's been a common problem on ALL VAG models for at least the past 40 years! These are typically replaced under manufacturer warranty but if you're driving a 2018 car bought outside the Skoda dealership then don't expect Skoda to come to the rescue. If it's just the centre caps then you're only talking a few pounds to replace them. Same with nut covers. White spray on window frame is another matter. Does it look like bird pooh? If so then a common cause of this is using stong chemicals to clean the car. Many VW Group owners have complained of the silver trim discolouring after visiting hand car washes. Didn't you notice these things before buying / taking delivery of the car? Legal advice? I'm only playing Devil's Advocate here, but if I were an unscrupulous dealer, all I have to say is the nut covers were present when you bought the car and there were no scratches. If you didn't point these out at the time of accepting the car then I'm afraid legally you don't have a leg to stand on as it comes down to their word against yours. At this stage, your dealer is correct - you can't ask for a refund. ( well I suppose you can ask but they'll refuse ). You can certainly reject a car but to do so the problem has to be significant - both the glovebox and towbar are at this stage deemed minor problems. You need to give the seller the chance to rectify them. If they refuse to do it, or make a mess of it, then rejection becomes easy as they've sold you faulty goods. Might not be what you wanted to hear - hope it helps.

Rob at www.fastlineturbo.co.uk is local to me at Northampton, and Google reviews seemed good, so I had him supply his recommendation of a strengthened IS38(not sure of the technicalities of exactly how its strengthened but he says it should be a lot more reliable and far better equipped to handle the stage 1 map than the factory turbo, of which apparantly the earlier (around 2016?) versions are worse and more prone to failure. Rob at fastline also offered whether I wanted a baffld delete for around £100, which apparantly let's things flow a little easier at the cost of a fraction more noise so I said sure. Apparantly my turbo shat its compressor wheel down into the downpipe, and he said its hard to say just how much damage done to the cat, hard to see down there, and best to replace that downpipe really, so I went for a scorpion downpipe with 100cell8 free flowing cat. Time will tell how long such a cat holds up, apparantly one of the main differences in aftermarket downpipes with cats is how much of the expensive precious metals they coat onto the cat, so cheaper ones might not get through the mot for as many years. Scorpion one is best 'bang for buck' according to vrs Northampton so I went for that (my first option the more expensive bcs had a 5 week lead time also whereas scorpion was in stock). So new stronger turbo and baffle delete (£875), scorpion downpipe (£650), while I was at it found a used ramair turbo inlet elbow which gives a little better airflow on ebay (£56) . I also bought a forge silicone intake pipe off ebay for another £55, but the garage didn't fit it, saying it was crap - too soft and squeezy so likely to collapse under boost. They said the forge one with the hose and turbo elbow all in one is fine if you can get that, but the shorter hose without elbow section is crap. So return that, and maybe I'll get the Apr carbon pipe. Garage labour was £580 + VAT, so I'm around £2300 down. With the improved airflow, the engine light hasn't come on so far, so the stage 1 map is fuelling enough for the moment, although it may well come on and push me to remap again, at which point I may as well throw caution to the wind and do r600 Intake, Wagner intercooler, and the rest of the exhaust system

I wouldn't trust any of the monkeys in Halfrauds to even pump up a bike tyre let alone let them near my car The only reason I bought the Ryobi is my Treg has a coolant leak and hasn't moved in 3 months, just one tyre has very slow leak and the supplied compressor needs the ignition ON (engine running) to work so I needed a stand alone pump and being disabled a foot pump is out of question

Not a chance. That muppet mechanic knew the job wasn't done right so he's blaming the coolant.

I’m sure mine has this but not as much or as visible. I think taking them out is the only way then you’ll be able to get to the back or be able to use a thin pipe cleaner

Just had an update from dealer who says my vehicle is at status 38 released for shipping! Looking good, fingers crossed!

If you've got a 1.4 SE-L, as it would appear from your posting history, making the assumption you have 17" wheels with 225/45R17 tyres i'd probably be considering... Michelin Primacy 4 / Primacy 4+ Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 2 Bridgestone Turanza T005 Hankook Ventus Prime 4 also appear to be reviewing fairly well but not sure they're widely available here yet.

The front electric windows all work now 🙂👍👊 all ready for summer 🙂👍👊 Turned out it was the motor!! Very happy 👍👊

I agree on your points except the one regarding the TPMS whereby it lets you inflate the tyres to the incorrect pressures. It would have to be a very sophisicated system to detect different tyre sizes and profiles. It would also have to know whether the car had only the driver or was fully loaded, unless this info was loaded into the computer beforehand.

well we been in winter for the last 6 or so months. I have done a long trip up to Birmingham and back and I hot about 55 - 60 mpg avrage. My trips to work get about 43 MPG. When I do a trip from Bladock to Ware I hit at least 50 MPG. If everything is similar and I am not hitting low 40's mid 30's on the same trips I do weekly, my tyre pressure is perfectly fine thank you very much.

It is not using excessive oil it used some oil and you do not know if the level was at the correct level at hand over to you and only you know how the car is used. The recommended oil by VW / Skoda for your engine if a 1.0 TSI is VW508 00 so 0w 20 FS IV. Know where the oil level isw cold but the correct oil level should be checked at the normal operating temperature. ie at near 90*oC. The tyre pressures affect you and others safety so i just wondered if you run them at the pressure you were given the car and trust they were not over or under inflated. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/498324-oil http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/497359-oil-consumption-15-tsi http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/468008-oil-burning-karoq A recent thread but there are plenty others for engines in the last 2-3 years since 0w 20 FS IV has been used and for years before that.

I guess early on they hoped to have both sides charging, but for some reason (cost? heat?) they didn't by the time the final parts were confirmed. However, you really should base your understanding of what is fitted to a car you're buying by a bit more than a single marketing photo. For example, I usually download and skim the manual of any car I'm thinking of buying so I can confirm it does do what I expect it to and make a note of things I want to find out more about. Also spend a bit of time reading owner's forums like this one to see what people don't like, or isn't what they expected. I have rejected several models of car because they do something in a way I don't think I could live with. Similarly these are things you should be checking when you take a car for a test drive - my wife and I had a list of things to check when we got to see an Enyaq for real (which included measuring the boot with a tape measure- don't want to spend £47000 and find we can't fit the dog crates in the boot for example!) Of course, I appreciate some people are probably more impulsive and buy without doing any research. But that's their choice - the information is freely available, you just have to take the time to read it.

I think if you were to drive from Lands End to John O Groats with 2 Enyaq 60’s, one with a heat pump and one without, both cars would probably stop at the same places to recharge. The difference would be the heat pump car would arrive at the charger with a slightly higher battery percentage and so take less time to charge. The heat pump car would therefore reach John O Groats sooner than the standard one. If you are doing very long journeys regularly I guess that could mean something.

Try East Yorkshire retro fit solutions, I've red nothing but REALLY good things. Mine is booked in next month for the reversing camera. I believe just about all their work is exactly as it would have been if installed at the factory.