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i get to join properly now... father in law's set uo from his youth, MIL found someone who could fix it, arrived back the other day and set up today.. i have no additional info beyond the pics.. havnt seen it yet. FIL reckons its about 51yrs old, he'll be 71 in August..

A few from testing at Brands Hatch this morning. Trying out a firmware update with vehicle tracking. Witchcraft lol.

A contender for one of the best cars I've owned. I got it new in 1990 and drove it for 238,000 miles until I wrote it off in '98 in a low speed accident in traffic in Edinburgh. I thrashed it pretty much everywhere including extended periods at 100 mph on French Autoroutes and around Circuit de Charade at Clermont Ferrand with wife, kids and tyres squealing. I took it off road, towed half a dozen grass surfers around a large field perched on a big sheet of plywood, towed an overly large caravan up and down Lake District passes, taught my 8 year old son to drive in it. I could go on... In its lifetime it consumed three radiators, two sets of suspension spheres, a few sets of discs and pads and several tyres. I fitted the Peugeot 205 GTi alloys largely to get more air to the brakes after setting fire to them coming down Puy de Dôme. When it was written off it was still on its original turbo and had had no engine work other than oil and filter changes.

So… got in to do the school run, and my car displays the following message on the infotainment unit. Pretty cool to be notified in that way 😁. Service measure 10H6 Dear Sir or Madam, We would like to inform your that your vehicle is subject to recall campaign 10H6. We request that you immediately arrange an appointment with a SKODA service partner to have the essential service measures performed on your vehicle free of charge. There is a risk that the design engine covers installed in your vehicle may, depending on the vehicle usage (e.g. very sporty driving or driving on poor surfaces), come loose from their fastenings over time. An improperly fastened design cover could come into contact with the turbocharger. This could cause damage due to thermal overload. Please follow these restrictions until the service measures have been performed on your vehicle: - Before every journey, check whether the engine cover is firmly attached to the engine. To do so, hold the cover in your hand and try to gently move/shake it. - If the design engine cover is fastened correctly, you may continue to use your vehicle without any restrictions before taking it to a workshop. - If the design engine cover has already come loose, try to remove it completely. - If this is not possible, contact a SKODA partner immediately to have the cover removed at a workshop. - The new version of the design cover is not yet available. As soon as an optimised version of the design cover is available, SKODA will inform your service partner so that the new version of the cover can be installed. Depending on the scope of the work to be performed, the corrective measures to be performed on your vehicle will take approximately 30 minutes. If the service measures have already been performed on your vehicle, you can disregard this correspondence We apologise for any inconvenience and thank you in advance for your understanding. Your SKODA Team By confirming with the OK button, you let Skoda Auto know that you have taken note of the displayed request.

And another one of my Dad, this time with his first car... a copy of a copy of a copy... etc. Must have been taken about 1994/1995. Better photos do exist. I'll report back once I've got more.

All swapped over. 👍 You will need to update your car, preferences etc. again though.

BBZ engine MAP sensor and PCV valve positions shown with red and blue arrows respectively:

April fools? 🤣

My advice has nothing to do with anything you said, I didn't read it, it is based entirely on twelve years experience on these fora, I have never seen a single failed MAP sensor, they are incredibly robust and simply do not fail.

Now I'm not nosey but sorry yes I am being nosey - I'd like to know the reason why you want an example with less than 150k ? And not yellow ...! At this stage in the game given the youngest Mk1 Fabia is now 15 years old its condition and regular servicing that is the yardstick but expect the unexpected - Don't be fooled into thinking that you will drive the car for 3 years and make a profit out of it !! If its a daily you are after then a well looked after example with a good MOT and service record is a better bet than an infrequently used garage queen. Regular use and sorting minor issues before they become major is key ! These examples still exist but are in a major decline. Most examples could have 170k+ at this stage which for a 2005 is 10k a year..! If its investment potential you are after then the vast majority have been put away already and you will pay very strong money for an original unmolested low mileage example if you can find one. You might be lucky but thanks to recent mentions across motoring publications has given the car quite the following and people are jumping on the bandwagon. Even in the last 5 years we have seen a sharp decline in numbers where tatty well abused and badly modified and maintained cars are getting broken up at quite a rate. So just be patient and keep an eye on the for sale in here and the mainstream market places - If its cheap there is a reason - Dont commit until you see a few and get a feel for them !!

Octavia is a Golf where the Fabia is a Polo, same VW running gear, avoid DSG, avoid turbo petrol, get an older Octavia with the PD100 or 2.0 petrol engine and you shouldn't have any trouble. There's a reason why taxi drivers love them.

. A new air filter (OEM, like Mann or Meyle) typically costs about fifteen quid or so on Amazon. It's a ten-minute job to replace one, or at least it is on a 2.0TSI. Pollen filters come in at less than twenty. At that price, and when it's that easy, it's daft not to do it every year. I haven't paid a garage to replace an air filter or a pollen filter on anything for yonks. It just doesn't make sense - to me, at any rate - not to do it yourself. I'm sure the air filter doesn't really need changing every year, but nowt beats a bit of inexpensive preventative maintenance. The pollen filter is only marginally more time-consuming because you need to drop the glovebox down on its hinge pins to access the filter housing, but there's nothing that needs a tool to undo. I'd possibly consider letting a garage do the filters if I had hands like a bunch of Fyffes or if I routinely spent fifty notes on expensive manicures, but otherwise I'm not going to pay someone a proportion of well over a hundred quid an hour to do such a simple job. .

I’m howling at stop **** being censored 😂

July 🤣🤣🤣

Brand new old stock heater core! A friend came across these in Christchurch and I thought it best to grab one while I could, as mine didn’t look great when I last saw it.

Sorry to hear that but with more car/life experience you might see it was a good thing to prevent future losses. At least there's salvage value to offset some of the pain. If you learn from the experience (some of us forget and have to relearn) it's not a total loss and perhaps a medium and long term alternative gain.

Went out a wee walk across the 'twa brigs' in the village.

They are, so buy another one, but avoid that engine and go for something reliable instead.

I think I’m in the same camp as a few of the above posters. Every time I acquire a new (to me) vehicle, I check everything frequently. As I get to know the vehicle I reduce the frequency of the routine checks. But I cringe at some of the stories on this forum, and others, from owners who express shock horror when their trusty vehicle shows warning lamps due to gross negligence. I know digging out the upside down space saver spare wheel is a bit of an inconvenience, but who’d want to find a flat spare when you really need it? And bonnet catches you can’t operate. An immovable wheel bolts. And jacks that you can’t operate. And lamps you can’t change. And wipers you can’t change. And ……………… 😀

In the mid 1990's I supplemented my income by buying cars at auction and selling them on. I bought a BX19GTI mostly because I felt sorry for it, as although in good nick, it was running rough as ar$e oles. Other regular buyers thought I was nuts. While scratching our heads as to what was up with it, a mates Dad, who was a lift engineer, found what we couldn't, and a kink in a small coil spring somewhere on the injection system. Being an 'engineer' he wouldn't replace it, but spent a good while getting the kink out the spring. Popped it back on and hey presto. He bought it off us there and then, and had it for about six years before trading it in for a Moggie Minor project. Superbly comfortable and unique car. Gaz

Updated today car is at grimsby ready for tranport and ive been given a reg number whoopeeeeeee looking good!

Just 2.0 TSI engines since August 2020. Check out the link posted above by @roottoot for a list of models affected.

Aye true, but they look cool.

I love looking at old hifi. I remember a neighbour getting one of those new fangled 'music centres' when I was young and we all went round to stare, gawp and listen to it. The VU meters blew me away with their techy look. I soon found out that VU meters aren't really of much use and of no use at all in broadcasting

i am only looking for a VRS so would be the sprint yellow and i think you have helped me make my mind up. not for me ahaha

No doubt I'll be kicked off the forum now... been nice knowing you all . I'll get my coat 🤣

If it helps, in FL steering wheel heating starts together with seat heating on level set in menu.

A few pics of my second car (also a VW): 'Recaro' seats, uprated suspension and ARB, Induction kit and Super Sprint exhaust. It was a lot of fun to drive. I bought the car for around £800, drove it everwhere, modded the hell out of it, and sold it 10 years later for £800.

The car is working again but I want to share two links to YouTube videos that I found helpful since the AirCon Relay Control Module seems to have more than one failure mechanism! I didn't find other failures relating to excess quiescent current drain that I was experiencing, which I now believe was probably a stuck relay within the module itself, but there were several failures relating to the fans and overheating! The first stage of the repair was to remove the battery so that I could extract the two 10mm relay module holding bolts and twist it over to get the appropriate part number. The part number of my Relay module was 1J0 919 506 K and I managed to source a used one from eBay. There were a number of after market new ones available but I wanted to use a genuine VW component as a few postings reported issues with Chinese copies. At this stage I decided that, since the two connectors were facing downwards and not easily accessible, to remove the battery shelf which is held in place with 4 highly visible 10mm bolts plus a 5th hidden one between the shelf and the air filter box. The connectors are hermetically sealed against moisture and are not easily removed but a YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=WSuR0RGUsr8 posted in America was very helpful in showing how to release the connectors. Once the connectors were removed, a further ammeter check, made with the battery temporarily connected with croc clip leads, confirmed that the current drain did indeed drop to ~8mA. The new module was fitted and another current check indicated the current stayed at 8mA before replacing the shelf and battery itself. I would add that, since more failures of this module occur from heating/cooling/fan issues, another American YouTube video posted in the comments of the earlier one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Gx9TwohCXg is worth a watch. It is a long clip and the explains more issues than just the Relay Module which features towards the middle. Both videos illustrate that this particular module was widely fitted across a whole range of VW 1999 to 2005 group vehicles and seems to have a variety of failure mechanisms! I hope this post my prove useful for others who are experiencing any of the range of issues that are associated with a failure of this module and would thank all those whose previous postings and comments that I have drawn upon to get my car working.

U can make minor tweaks/adjustments of the vertical throw of ur low beams, using the adjuster shown in the pic. Park ur car approx. 7m away from a wall, on level ground. Using an allen key, make very small turns of the screw - u'll c the beam either lift or drop. Repeat the same with the other headlight. This is how mine looks. https://youtu.be/fkRcEJIVlJU

Well, seeing as anyone at all can register at https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do and pay 7 Euro for one hour access, which also lets people see TPI numbers for their VIN, it's a bit odd of the dealer to say that To be fair though, very few people will do this, and seeing as the system is frankly intuitive and complicated to navigate (if I'm being charitable), it's no wonder why either!

Hi all, I first joined in 2004 when I purchased the Fabia vRS 1.9 PD. absolutely superb car for the time. I had it for 14 years and apart from a window regulator fail which was replaced under warranty NOTHING went wrong. Since then I’ve had 2 Audi A3’s and my current car (until tomorrow) is the new Peugeot 208 GT. Great car but too small. Anyway, just purchased a 2021 Kamiq Monte Carlo in race blue which I’m picking up either tomorrow or Sunday. Glad to be back……anyone on here from way back??

Autowindscreens couldn't do it for me. They paid for my local Skoda garage to recalibrate.

They had a technical service bulletin. during start up procedure they would stop half way meaning they pointed straight at the ground. a small software update sorted this out and that is probably what you had done

@AJ89 Light use is exactly when they might use oil. Short cold start journeys & oil often not getting up to an efficient operating temperature. But that is as with any engine however many cylinders or fuel type. Then running the oil level low and having the oil working harder as a coolant and not checking or topping up for 5,000 miles or until the Warning Light or Message comes on is not that smart. If the oil was low already at 1,000 miles on a new engine it was lower still at 2,000, 3,000 and 4,000 before getting to 5,000 miles and the warning. Light use / low daily mileage / low annual miles is exactly why 'Fixed Oil & Filter service regimes' are recommended for that type of usage. https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-drivers/servicing/service-plans/service-schedules.html

Just spoken to dealer, car is released and on the way to the port of departure. Should be good for April delivery

I had these headlights on my 2016 SE Business spec (they were an option on that car), I was never happy with the low beam range. The left and right bending feature worked but the beam pattern never adapted to speed. I convinced my local dealer to have a look, all they did was connect the magic Skoda diagnostic unit to the car and then worked perfectly. I don't think the option was activated fully when the car was built. After that, I could clearly see the beam adapting as the road speed changes. My girlfriend has the same issue with the light on her Golf R, so a VW group issue not just a Sloda one! My current 2019 Sportline Plus has the AFS lights and they work perfectly.

Thank you mate. I THINK that name rings a bell as I was pretty active on here back in the day for a few years. Looking forward to being back in the Skoda fold. I’m buckling up😊

Window motors have a look at this #10 is the MAP/IAT sensor ( Manifold Absolute Pressure & Inlet Air Temperature sensor) the sensors often get gummed up with oil deposits you can clean them but only use carb or brake spray cleaner, do not use a brush or anything else as they are quite delicate.

If its a 1.4 it doesn't have an engine cover so the cross will mean not checked as not present

Good work on this. Maybe further than I'd dare going...

I'm afraid that car is a lemon, best cut your losses on it rather than doubling down.

Ive had my 2011 2.0TDI 170 remapped although it isn't the 4x4. I got good gains for stage 1 and it has made all the difference to the driving experience. I agree with root toot though, make sure your vehicle has good history, and is in good running condition.

My favourite type of fix, a free one!

Last update from me: I cancelled my order this week and got my downpayment back. I managed to find a Mazda on stock at a dealer nearby, went for a test drive, liked it a lot and settled for it. I was a bit disappointed at first I didn't end up with the Skoda, but I can't wait indefinitely for a car to arrive. Also, the Mazda came equipped with almost the same options as the Octavia, plus some extra like blind spot monitoring and ended up costing me 2000 euros less than the Skoda. So good luck to everyone waiting for their car, I hope the wait is worth it and that you will enjoy you ride once it arrives.

. Lots of peeps may not agree with this, but I wouldn't be using WD40 as a lubricant on anything on a car. It leaves a gummy residue over time which attracts dirt, and it isn't very kind to rubber seals. It's great for getting the sparks in a damp HT system back where they should be, but that's pretty much a problem from a bygone age. In my humble opinion there are much better things to use; anything with PTFE or silicon will do the job more efficiently. .

No it was already there for me mate

Mmm shiny new clutch parts. New bearing and friction disc, machined flywheel and rebuilt pressure plate courtesy of WAGS - Your Gearbox and Performance Shop

Check This is in the owners Manual Depending on driving style and operating conditions, the engine consumes some oil, up to 0.5 l/1000 km. Consumption may be higher over the next 5000 km. Check the oil level at regular intervals.

Hi all, I don't know an awful lot about Skodas (but willing to learn!), so please forgive me in advance. I've seen two 2.0 TDI DSG Superbs I like - one being a SportLine, the other being an L&K. They're both MKIIIs and are 67 plates. I suppose my main questions are: -What is the reliability like on the Superbs? Anything they're particularly prone to that can't be avoided? I'll want to do the 'All in' thing Skoda are pushing at the moment, but good to know otherwise. -Is there much difference in comfort between the SportLine and the L&K? There's a £2k price difference between the two. -The L&K has Dynamic Chassis Control. Having a read on here, I've heard that it does make a great deal of difference to ride quality. Is this generally something that doesn't go wrong? if it does, can it be costly to repair? I feel like I've asked quite a bit above, so please accept my apologies in advance! I really do appreciate any help. Thanks all 🙂