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@sepulchrave i obviously dont know you as anything more than a fellow skoda owner's forum member with a username, but, you come across sometimes as though you have some pent up frustrations and stress that can only be vented through your posts here. is everything alright? do you need a hug? @froggy8 have you had any more thoughts on what exactly youre looki g for?

picked up the gearbox today with the LSD fitted and rebuilt , would like to thank LANCS TRANSMISSION for the professional friendly and well priced service , there’s some things that are beyond my capabilities and without all the professional tools it worked out better to get it done by someone I trusted … I would like to add that these guys said they do at least one dq200 rebuild a week and told me there price structure and it is really fairly priced I would recommend them if your even in a pickle

A few more from this evening ........

Sky was ideal for reflections this evening

Good buy, when you get them, give them a good squirt of WD40 or similar before putting them away after you've used them, cheap stainless still gets spotty with rust over time.

Been out a "wee" drive today... Bad news is the following though: Wheel wobble is still terrifying beyond an indicated 65mph (about 62mph). Thinking tracking or balancing still. The above may be linked to the bloody annoying clunk I'm getting over bumps, still. Brakes are very soft and require a lot of pedal travel to do very little... again. The discs on the front are looking a bit carp and the rear drums... well, the less said, the better. Handbrake is also horrid too. Thankfully, the fuelling issue seems to have cleared up a little bit... my MPG seems to be touching 45-46 now, even if it is being indicated pessimistically on the computer. Cupar and back was great fun though!

Perfik - great engine

i have now bought a ford focus. so far so good.

I buy these green door clips off ebay - item number 192216223813 Think the white clips are for a mk2.

Spot the mistake - what hope do we have ?

Steady on with the tartan rug brigade. Void bushes are designed to yield easily to promote understeer, manufacturers deem it safer with FWD cars to have such handling characteristics because most punters are terrible drivers who do stupid panicky things like braking mid-corner if it tightens up on them. There are those of us who don't run with the herd who don't like a rubbery front end and prefer more precision in our steering and handling. Driving isn't for everyone although everyone thinks they're good at it.

@Gizmo has and I believe that he was most impressed.

Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this. Thought I might share my experiences with this situation. If you are wanting to change the look of your wheel centre caps but don't want to go with the hassle of removing the wheels to remove them or don't want to go to the expense of buying entirely new replacements, one thing you could check is that the outermost part of the cap is a logo sticker than can be removed. The last owner of my Octy VRS had "VRS" logo centre caps but I wasn't happy with this and wanted something closer to what would've come out of the factory. After reading up on how to remove the caps with the wheels in situ, I tried only to end up removing the logo part and discovered they were just stuck on. Doing some looking around on a certain auction site, I found this listing for plastic outer stickers for wheel centre caps (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Sticker-SKODAs-Wheel-Centre-Cap-Hub-3D-Logo-Cap-56mm-Black-Silver-Stickers/165307982153). When they arrived, they seemed to be made of a fairly sturdy plastic. Removed all the logos and cleaned the surface of the centre caps using some solvent (Sticky Stuff Remover in this case) and Isopropyl Alcohol just to make sure. Then carefully stuck the new logos in place. The result looks pretty smart. If someone looked really closely, they probably could tell they are not OEM but at a normal distance and glance, they are indistinguishable in my opinion. What do you all think?

Don't worry about the starter motor, my 1.4 was noisy for 11 years and my 2.0 still is after 6 years.

Sounds a bit like the plastic casing is cracked or distorted, and that will get replaced by your workshop I'd think, so I'd lay off loading any gunge into the clean coolant system.

Mine lasted like a year before needing done again. Should have got the good meyle ones when I changed em Get your wheels balanced yesterday. Won't cost much and if you know the lad they might not even charge you at all. That shaking will be wearing your wheel bearings like mad. Be one or both front wheels. Think I told you before but when I put my montes wheels from the back to the front it magically started shaking super bad over 80mph. Could have been a fiver if anything at all to get sorted.

Thank you for the advice I took the cluster out and stripped it down, found several cracked solder joints. I've reflowed them and it seems to be all good. Now just to fix the other fun quirks it has (noisy starter motor, central locking that likes to lock itself at will etc )

If its dripping out under the vehicle somewhere try some K-Seal. A bit more expensive that Rad Weld but it stops most leaks 1st go.

Can confirm. Got a whole poke of these still from when I had my front doors off. Had a whole saga with the dealers trying to procure them, but we'll ignore that.

They look to be fairly new from what I seen underneath and when I had the wheels off. It's as nice tomorrow as it is today then I'll get the wheels off tomorrow and have a prod about things on the suspension side of the car and see if anything is... ****ed.

So bit the bullet today and decided to replace the MC. Based on the instructions from the manual (see attached) it didn't appear that daunting of a task but typically it didn't go to plan. I'd fabricated a T10005 tool from a welding clamp which performed the task reasonably well but also took the precaution of acquiring a replacement for the clip, more on that below. Getting the old cylinder out went well enough but trying to fit the new one with the new clip I just couldn't get it to click in place, then it happened, the helper spring popped out, why I have no idea but hey I thought, no big problem I'll drop the pedal out and refit it - but oh no, for some unfathomable reason the bolt which holds it in is inserted from the steering column side meaning that there was no possible way to get it out without either removing the entire column or taking the complete pedal assembly off the car. What they were thinking I can't imagine as there is no need whatsoever for it to be fitted from that side, it's a simple 8mm bolt acting as a pivot and can go either way and from the opposite side it would have come out without issue. No way was I going to remove the steering column and after considering - but dismissing - the angle grinder option I set to removing the pedal assembly. The video I posted earlier came in handy as it gave me a clue for removing the top nut which I could barely see but did mange to remove using three long 1/4" extensions through the gap under the steering wheel all the time wondering how I was going to refit it as I do not have a 1/4" 'wobble' extension. Once the assembly was out I cut away come of the sound deadening padding which was partly obscuring it which at least gave me an improved view of where I would be working when refitting it. On the bench I examined, compared, and measured the new clip against the original and discovered that not only was the new one about 1mm longer between the arrows but also that the slot in the end was narrower so there was no way it was ever going to fit so I chucked it aside and reused the original. I reassembled it all on the bench as per the video and refitted to the car, the top nut was a b*itch as anticipated but I eventually got it back on. I bled the system and quickly got a good pedal but then noticed a weep from the pipe where it fits in the MC so removed it again, checked and refitted the rubber seal, after which is sealed correctly, as a check going forward I put a piece of black duct tape on the chassis member immediately below the connector which should immediately reveal any drips. As stupidly expensive as they are I may invest in a new seal just in case. What should have been a max 1.5 hour job turned into a half day marathon and being of 'an age' Instructions.docwith all the contortions in the footwell I expect to be totally seized up on the morrow!

I think mine are Starrett but we're talking 40 years ago so I really can't remember clearly, I can tell you my cheap steel set turned into a solid lump of rust years ago and got binned.

If you're really going to buy feeler gauges do yourself a favour and buy stainless, trust me, it's worth the extra munny.

all i know is mine is petrol 1.6 113-115 bph. ( on few websites, its been giving me either 113 bhp or 115 bph)

Please don't say its an ecoboost

It will certainly cut out the polishing stage. Not all 'ceramic' coatings are equal, so do your homework beforehand, likewise avoid those who come to you (a true ceramic needs to cure overnight... in the dry). I always: rinse snowfoam rinse 2BM wash rinse DI rinse blow dry. Sometimes if the car isn't very dirty (mainly dusty) I will just: rinse snow foam rinse DI rinse. The gets the car almost clean (to most people it would be perfectly clean enough)

Hi Delboy. I have just done exactly that, piece of cake to get out. It span by hand but not too freely. Looked at previous comments on here so just sprayed some WD40 on it, let it soak, plugged the electrics back in and hey presto, spinning like new. Will reinstall it soon. Big relief as they are not cheap

Rivet size is documented here

Hello from Skye

Void bushes are designed to be stiff in one direction and compliant in the other, I racked my brains but could not come up with the term for a material that does not have uniform strength in all directions. I was a race car constructor and driver and would use solid mountings, polybushes, rose joints etc where they gave an improvement but it was always at the cost of NVH (no loss) and maintenance, any articulated joint using poly bushes would wear. I have yet to find an application on a road vehicle where any benefit would outweigh the disadvantages, certainly on any articulated joint they lose all the benefits of a rubber to metal bonded bush, that of being maintenance free, if they at least had a grease nipple it would be a start for those willing to go back 50 years. I would actually prefer a vehicle that had a more direct connection through the controls and would be happy having to grease all the joints every 6 weeks, when I use a digger I grease all the joints before and after use, but modern suspension designs, the console bushes being a good example could not operate without compliance using rose joints and solid bushes, electric power steering was the final nail in the coffin AFAIK regarding control feedback. Over a decade ago I was driving an old beat up high mileage MK1 Octavia, for the Téléthon our Lycée pro (motor trade) would invite the public to have their vehicles checked over in the workshops then washed & valeted, my job was to drive the vehicles through the various stations, most were newish vehicles, nearly all newer and better condition than mine, normally it would have left me with a desire for something newer and better. It was not the case at all, all of them were huge, heavy yet confined, no knee room, peering over a high dash, narrow slits for windows, bad visibility whilst I was driving through the narrow path between the stations, the worst of all was the total feeling of disconnection between the controls and the steering, suspension, brakes etc, the absolute highlight of the day was a basic 80's Renault 5 which was a total joy, light doors that closed properly with smooth manual window winders, superb visibility, loads of glass and narrow pillars, sublime non power assisted steering, brakes, clutch and handbrake. The drive home made me realise that the dog that it was, my MK1 Octavia was a better drivers car than any of them, when I bought a MK2 I liked how familiar it was but hated the huge A & B pillars and most of all the electric power steering, people said that I would get used to it and very sadly indeed I have but no amount of polybushes could make that or my current Yeti into the drivers car that the MK1 was, quite the opposite, I believe they would make it worse. I have a clonk from the RH front suspension, it does not appear to be the new strut or top bearing nor the cheap drop links that I fitted so later on I will be checking all the suspension bushes, I will keep an open mind regarding poly bushes but only for any joints with a rotational element around the fixing bolt.

It's relay D2 in the above picture under the dash drivers side, I would pull it out and just make sure the contacts are clean, if it persists probably replace the relay

Eh? As long as the update starts then it'll work away in the background. No need to leave ignition on for 2.5mins let alone 2.5 hours.

looking good i went with the easy route and just painted them to match the wheels

When I retrofitted indirect TPMS I used a grommet behind the ABS pump for the thin wire. I th8nk that it had multiple openings on it but I could be mistaken.

As it's an auto, it could be the starter inhibit relay

Spot on they dont just throw things on a car and hope for the best, they do things with a reason

Hi, Many thanks for taking the time to help, I did fancy the TSI 1800 it could have been a nice motor what were they thinking.. Sound like you've saves me a lot of time looking for something that not there. Thanks again. You Guys are so much help to novices like me. M

Yeti has been available only with 1.8 tsi gen 2 (the worst one actually)

Ford left the cheap car market many years ago and as you probably know buying a Fiesta does not give a lot of change out of £20k, their Kuga PHEV is £38k so just not in the cheap market for many a decade now. The Dacia Spring EV is the success story of cheap EV in Europe but Dacia/Renault have about 20k back orders so are not in a position to do a RHD version yet. UK should get versions of both the Renault 5 and Micra in a couple of years but they will not be anywhere near as cheap as the Spring which is about £12k Euros or just over £10K in GBPs. Ford wanted to become purely a design house and leave production to toll manufacturers it has been muted. The Chinese made cars, and vans, are moping up the cheap end of the market and may well take over the middle ground too in the next couple of years.

Well ffs you couldn’t make it up, just finished running a cable in at this time of night 😥 why is nowt straight forward 😤😤 other year Abs fault etc, scanned, o/s/r abs sensor. New sensor fitted ( broke old getting it out) but turned out to be hub. This time front left, new sensor fitted but no better Dive shaft removed and abs ring checked, all seemed ok Turned out it’s the earth wire between sensor plug and plug on abs pump. Absolutely fantastic Ran new earth cable in and now fault clear with no dash warning lights on. Fixing cars at 23.30 at night 🙄, just need to put it all back together now. If a gallon of petrol wasn’t so much I’d set fire to it 😂 Just waiting to for rear coil springs to come now 🙄

I would still slip the pipe off the tank and have an exploratory prod with some wire. The hole may be able to pass air, but may be restricted in size...... and it costs nothing to try.

Be super-careful with your nut/bolt arrangement for the subframe end of the dogbone mount. The bit of bolt that comes through the captive/welded original nut comes very close to the steering rack tube. Steering racks are sometimes wrecked while doing gearbox/clutch work by people mixing up the bolts and putting a 65mm (gearbox to engine) one back in there instead of the 61mm long original. Those extra 4mm are enough to dent the rack tube when the bolt is tightened, destroying the rack.

Would be ideal, but sadly my dad sold his 5 years ago, so that’s not really possible

replaced by an option in the Car->Settings->Opening and Closing menu

I don't see the problem here. You literally bet on your car having an expensive, catastrophic failure, and you won the bet. The cost of the repairs far exceed the cost of the warranty. No only that, but the warranty sorted out all your needs by providing you with a replacement car during repairs. Now, you have a six year-old car, with a brand new gearbox. What is the problem you have that buying a Lexus will solve?

This is not my experience. I never have to reactivate any systems after using my towbar-mounted bike rack (which plugs in)

No. Even if there was, the easiest way if getting PD130 performance out of an SDi is to buy another car.

Could be worth removing the motor and seeing if the manual winder works then? After that you're probably going to have to remove the whole roof mechanism and go through it bit by bit to see what the problem might be. If you're mechanically inclined you should be able to track down the problem with a bit of time and patience.

..I watched it all 3 times and still couldn't make out any salient moments??....so I would appreciate an explanation as well??

There are only two types of injectors, 550 or 520, some ASZ engines have 520's, some have 550's, however all BLT are 520 and all ARL are 550. It really doesn't matter for the OP's application since they all have ample headroom for his expected output. The correct map to use is the map for a BLT VRS with the ARL turbo fitted, expect about 180 BHP, remember the intercooler doesn't make a **** bigger, it just let's you play with it for longer. Ok duck? Twiserable mat.