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Tell them to go ahead and change the Haldex oil as per their recommendations and see what happens. With any luck they will bill you for work they could never have done and you will have them by the balls for recompense to stop you going to the Trading Standards Office and the Motor Industry Ombudsman. At least you have no risk of them draining the wrong oil and wrecking the rear differential that you dont have!

I’m laughing at the last sentence, but the first one makes me sad… Anyway, my dealer mentioned on Monday that things have started to move, they receive a few Octys each week (mine is still parked somewhere, waiting for something…).

Hi Jamie, take a look under the car at the rear axle, if it's a plain, beam axle with no centre differential housing (round-ish lump in middle of axle), and no driveshaft coming from the front, it's 2 wheel drive.

Happy to close this issue! Found that the 7-13 adapter was faulty/inconsistent. Replaced with new one and working now. Many thanks to all the suggestions.

Ordered a Vrs iV Hatch in race blue 7th October 21 with winter pack and mate ordered Vrs Diesel wagon with winter pack and suspension upgrade 4 weeks later from same dealer.... his is in transit and i still dont have a build date.... f*ck the environment i knew i shoulda stuck with a real engine haha!!!

Hello all, I have just finished installing a RCD330 with a reversing camera and thought I'd do a small write-up as when I was looking for help I found myself endlessly looking through web pages! RCD330 Luckily, this install is one of the easiest installs you can do. I bought my RCD330 head unit from AliExpress (a seller called Lemon Shark), as they offered a green backlit one to match the car and it was on sale for a good price. The seller also included a Fakra antenna adapter and an AV camera adapter (for a reversing camera). To start, simply remove the trim around the existing radio. I could do this easily with my fingers starting at the top left hand side, but you may want to use a trim removal tool. Once this is done, remove the four Torx 20 screws (two each side) which will allow the radio to come out. For my Swing radio, there were two connections: the main wiring harness and the antenna connection. The main wiring harness is removed by releasing the buckle at the bottom of the harness, and the antenna is removed by pushing in the plastic tab. After removing this, they can be pulled out. If you are planning on installing a reversing camera: at the bottom inside the main radio wiring harness, there is one blue pin harness and one green pin harness. You will need to remove the blue pin connector from the main wiring harness, as this is where you will plug in the AV camera adapter connector. It looks identical to the first photo attached and is simple as removing the old one and putting the new one in. Important: remember to tell the seller of the RCD330 that you intend to install a reversing camera, as they will need to code it to enable a camera input on the screen. You also need to attach the antenna adapter, as the factory radio has a double fakra connection and the RCD330 only has one. Again, simply plug in. Once those new connections are all in, reverse the steps to remove the old radio; plug everything in. There is only the main wiring harness and the new single fakra antenna connection to plug in. There should be more than enough room to put the new radio back into the slot, but if you are having trouble, you can tuck the antenna connection in the hole in the back of the slot (right-hand side). Put the bolts in, put the trim back and that's all done! Reverse Camera Unfortunately, this install is not so straightforward. I was personally concerned about the quality of the reversing cameras being sold on AliExpress, so I opted to buy one from Audio Tech Direct. From their website, it said the compatible camera for a Skoda Fabia Mk2 was the Skod3 camera, but more on that in a sec... Step 1 - Installing the new boot release: To start, remove the boot door interior lining. This is held in by many trim clips that pop out when pulled. Once this is done, there is also a Torx screw holding in the inside boot handle which ideally needs to be removed. Once this is done, you will be able to see the boot release from the inside. Remove the connector in the original boot release. Back to the camera... the SKOD3 camera has two bolts which I assumed would screw in, but no! The original boot release is held in by a metal clip, so the new reversing camera boot release is not very secure. I ended up getting around this by winding the cable for the reversing camera around a metal structure point in the boot lid and cable tied it secure. I'm not sure when/if it will fall down, but that's a problem for another day; for now, it is secure. The boot release connector does fit, simply plug it in. For this particular camera, there is a connection between the camera and the main wiring (RCA, 12v+, ground) as shown in the second attached picture. This made it slightly easier for this next step. Step 2 - Threading wire from the car to the boot: Patience at the ready because this step is a *****. You will need to thread the main wiring --> camera connector through the rubber tailgate tunnel and up through the tunnel running along the side of the tailgate. You will need something long, thin and strong (I used an old wire coat hanger). You will also need to peel away the head lining, and I also ended up removing the C pillar trim (this is already covered at the bottom of another post named rear camera wiring for 2011 fabia). I did this part in three steps: Remove the rubber tailgate tunnel on the tailgate side so you can see all the way through to the inside of the car. You can reach underneath the head lining and feel the hole in the ceiling which leads to this tunnel. Once you are confident where the hole is, try to thread the connector through the rubber tunnel. Once this is done, remove the rubber grommet for the heated rear window and feed the coat hanger through to the top of the tailgate. Hook the connector and pull through to the hole for the rear heated window wire. Finally, feed the coat hanger through the bottom end of the tailgate tunnel and try to hook it onto the connector. Once hooked, give it a pull and hopefully it comes out of the other side! Then simply connect the two connectors together and pull the wiring from inside the car. You need to have as much of the wiring in the car as possible so you can connect it to the 12v+ and ground sources. The RCA cable is more than long enough. Step 3 - Connecting the 12v+ and ground sources: For this step, I ended up connecting to the reverse bulb +ve and ground. The instructions tell you to connect to a 12v+ ignition source, but I felt this was unneccesary and needed more work. You will need to remove the C pillar trim and boot lip trim. The C pillar trim has already been mentioned above. The boot lip trim is held on by a few pop clips and two plastic 10mm nuts in the spare wheel well. You will need to take out the spare wheel to access them properly. Once removed, the boot lip trim can be removed with a tug but be careful not to crack or break it! The plastic trim behind the rear left light will also need to be loosened. This is done by removing Torx screws along the top of the trim (now accessible after removing C pillar trim), plus a 5mm allen key socket and another torx screw located directly behind the rear light (I think one of them also doubles up as a luggage/net clip?) Once this is done, you will be able to see the wiring for the rear lights. Check carefully which is the reverse bulb wiring - for my car it was the brown wire (ground) and a light blue/borderline grey wire (12v+). Important: you will need a relay to go between the reverse bulb wiring and camera connections. The relay-in side connects to the reverse light wiring and the relay-out connects to the camera wiring. I have attached a simplified diagram showing this. I personally stripped the reverse wiring and wound the relay wiring around it, then used insulating tape to seal (I also did this for the relay-out to camera wiring). Once you're happy that the connections are secure, move onto the next step. Step 4 - Locating the RCA connection to the front of the car: Again I followed the 'Rear camera wiring for 2011 Fabia?' post for this step. If you follow the long RCA connection along the headlining and then along the top seals along the headliner and top of the doors, it makes this step SO much easier. Follow it along until you get to the A pillar, tuck it behind the trim and then you will tuck it behind the dash. Open the passenger (left) front door, and above the airbag on/off switch you can remove a piece of trim which enables access behind the dash. Remove it, then find the wiring and pull it through. I took a slightly 'easy way out' approach here, but the wires are completely hidden so it didn't bother me. I removed the soft material underneath the glovebox (above the passenger footwell), and threaded the wire along here. Finally, there is a small gap at the bottom left-hand side of the radio slot, which gives access to the top of the footwell. Make your two hands meet, then pull the wire through to behind the radio. Plug in the RCA connections and it is all connected. The red tail wire attached to the RCA is needed for other aftermarket head units that have a reverse signal wire. As the RCD330 has been coded for a reverse camera and the RCD330 interacts seamlessly with the CANBUS, there is no need for a reverse signal. You will probably find that there is a lot of cable spare - I cable tied it together and tucked it behind the glovebox. Step 5 - Test! I would highly recommend that you test it all works before putting everything back together, as it is a pain to put everything back and then remove it. Check the camera feed AND the reverse light works. Note: as the camera is tapped into the reverse light, you will notice that when you put the car back into drive/neutral/gear, the camera feed will freeze as the camera no longer has any power going to it. This isn't personally a problem for me as the camera feed eventually disappears once you drive off and I only need the camera feed when reversing, but this may bother some of you. If all is well, put all the trim back together and give yourself a pat on the back! 👏 I hope this helps some of you. If there are any questions I will try to answer them but this was very much experimental for me.

They do a 7 speed wet box too.

And so the plot thickens… Please can I have an engine, four gears, and a handbrake. Life used to be so simple 😉

Self-impose a 60mph top speed limit and you'll save a fair bit of fuel.

There is no reason to worry about opening the bonnet voiding the warranty. How else are you supposed to check the oil and top up, or to fill the washer bottle.

£600 is 300L of derv or approximately 3000 miles assuming a very poor 10MPL/45MPG. If you go up to a more realistic 12MPL/approx 54MPG then you're at 3600 miles per month before you have paid just the cost of leasing an EV. By the time you add in say 10 charges of 50kWh@60p per kWH then it's another £300 (for 1500 miles assuming 3 miles/kWh ) or if it's only 5 public rapid charges then £150 (for 750 miles). Obviously you have cheaper home charging, but if you use the range you are getting hit on time, availability of chargers and cost. That spend is another 75-150L of derv @£2/l, which is another 750-1800 miles depending on what MPG you get and if EV what public charging you do. Like you I really want an electric, to the point I have one on order, however with the lack of infrastructure to charge an EV away from home, then actually it gets really hard to justify throwing that much money per month at one. I can actually see why people go on about hydrogen, because in theory it's a drop in replacement for peoples current habits and time. Of course the infrastructure for that is beyond useless anhd it's not as efficient. It's quite sad, because the cars cost the earth, the infrastructure is terrible, hybrids are a big con and even the economics don't actually stack up vs a diesel with fuel prices at this very high level. I mean even if you put £400 lease on a new diesel, then you're looking at a minimum of £250 extra for an EV every month, which is still 125L/1250 miles.

Thanks, my wife is out with the car just now but will have a nosey when she's back. Nothing in the V5C Thanks for the service schedule infographic. The engine / gearbox are TDI 150 (1968cc) and DSG7. No printout of the service history as such - the only info is an invoice from a "major service" at an independent garage around a year ago. While I agree it would be usual for a person to know what they are buying it's probably not unusual to take the sales information at face value 😇 As you've said above, I suspect this apparently conflicting info may come down to the service desk not knowing servicing requirements for the different models. A shame, as I thought I'd maybe got a free upgrade to AWD..

When we bought my wife's Fabia from a Skoda dealer last year, they failed to spot that it had a 6-speed box in it! - meaning we got the110PS version.

Posted 'Sad' emoticon because there's no 'screaming, homicidal' one.

...but fitting larger diameter tyres has the same effect as changing the final drive ratio, therefore making all the gears taller and yielding greater fuel economy in conjunction with higher pressures.

Currently it's a case of what you can get in stock. I'd look for something with a long battery life, 8-16GB RAM and a reasonably sized SSD. I'd also chuck in a portable USB HDD for your daughter to backup onto and put somewhere safe. The number of people who don't back up the essentials then the laptop gets dropped, soaked, nicked with their data gone is shocking.

Sounds like a Haldex fault, if you have an OBD device you can plug in and get any codes for the all wheel drive system. The Haldex Repairs website gives you chapter and verse on the codes and issues. I had the pump fail on mine despite Skoda servicing to the book - they don't change the removable filter that they claim doesn't exist resulting in the pump burning out. I now take mine to an independent with Haldex experience and service every 2 years or 20,000 miles to try and head off any further trouble.... Cheers

The ratios for a turbo diesel's gearbox probably won't suit the 3-pot petrol I fear, to the point of being very awkward to drive in the lower gears. Gut feeling. I doubt the bolts holding bell-housing to engine will match up either. Careful scrutiny of photos of ebay gearboxes of each type may shed some light on this. I very much doubt you'd see a £30pcm saving either. What tyre pressures do you use?

Not all real EVs have green plates.

HI, what was your source for this out of interest. If accurate it's indeed good news for a lot of us! thx j.

Had a walk around Rufford Park earlier in the Summer solstice sunshine . Last car in the carpark again 😃

I had to drop the wife's ID badge off at her work and parked up in front of her car. On the way back I took this pic as it's not often we see them both out and about together. I then got up for the sunrise this morning seeing as it was the 21st of the month. There weren't any druids around where I was but I did take a photo that captured a bit of the car. Here's one just for the sake of it.

Maybe you're going thru a "black serie" 🤔 or... driving to close to the car ahead...😜

Today's commute home from work.

@sneal Probably at a Dacia Dealership. Or there will be a Kamiq, Scala or Fabia out there with a faulty gearbox and a manual parking brake.

The Caddy's previous owner had applied his particular style to the interior as much as the exterior. This had resulted in a lot of the interior plastics being sprayed pillar box red. This was one of the pictures he used when it was advertised for sale. In my ownership, all of the red parts had been replaced with standard grey, except for the door cards and door pockets. My son had been on my case to rectify this, and I could not argue that he was wrong, but there have been (many) other jobs of higher priority. However, with the Caddy due to be in the Trucks, Vans & Wagons paddock at the Retro Rides Weekender, I wanted it to look its best, so the last bit of red had to go. The irony is of course that it is a really straightforward job. After not managing to get round to it for years, it probably took less than 30 minutes a side to put it right. Several of the clips on the driver's side were missing or broken, but I had a few spares so not only does the door card now look miles better, but it is solidly attached too. The only frustration was that when I did the job I had not managed to find an offside grab handle in dark grey, so I had to temporarily fit a light grey one. A few days later I retrieved a dark grey handle from my lock-up and swapped it.

Thanks mate Delivery was quoted at 35wks initially, but within a few days from that and going in for a test drive to place the order, he said it was more like 37wks now, so its Mar 2023 im expecting it

Got information from dealer that Skoda will try to finish unfinished cars durin july/august. Not sure how much of them. But i guess things are moving soon.

Start looking at retro-fitting all the underbody aero that is made for the MQB platform cars, but only fitted to select "eco" versions.... All info in basically the first page in each of my guides here:- How to retro-fit skid trays, aerodynamic under trays, & stone guards to a MK7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum How to retro-fit the Mk8 rear suspension aero covers or stone guards to a Mk7 Golf. | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum How to retro-fit the front subframe cover from the VW Tiguan (2016->) | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum

So to try and clarify the issue and give a comparison I actually went to my local Skoda dealer today and sat in Octavia (very similar to my old Leon). You’ll have to excuse my expression as I’m in a foul mood with the whole thing. But I wanted to test the wrist at 12 o’clock, and hand at 10 o’clock and 9 o’clock to hopefully demonstrate my point of discomfort being my arms stretched. My superb seat is a little further forward than I would comfortably prefer it to be and set not far from maximum height with the steering wheel as low as possible without completely cutting off the dials (the top of the dials is blocked slightly). The Octavia is much lower where I would normally have my seat and perfect distance from the pedals with steering wheel as low and far out as possible without blocking the dials at all. Superb: Octavia: Superb: Octavia: Superb: Octavia: I think the 12 o’clock and 10 o’clock pictures are most telling and thankfully demonstrates I’m not going mad and the steering wheel is substantially further away. The biggest issues is the angle when my arms are at 10 o’clock as it’s much more relaxed in the Octavia.

Happened to me when i was using the system to find a destination in Glasgow. It told me to turn left at the junction. At that point i knew it was wrong as a left turn was into oncoming traffic. When i looked at the screen i was about 5 miles from where i was. Contacted the dealer , dealer took the car for 3 days and road tested but could not replicate the fault. It happened again a few months after the dealer visit but not since and thats been about a year. Im just waiting for new car to arrive to ditch this , now its been formally rejected. I'll post my reg so that the next user gets a history of my probs PS still on 1803 S/W

South Africa - where there are plenty of VW's and Audis, very few Seats and zero Skodas.

MPGwatcher economic driving is knowing more about driving than deeper mechanical. Start with the basics like tyres, the unneeded weight the car carries all the stuff and advice you'll find on AA/RAC type sites and the specialist hypermiling sites. Training yourself to drive more economically and preparing the vehicle for economic driving will also be the most cost effective methods. I'd recommend that you don't trust petrol station tyre pressure gauges and buy a good quality one of your own, doesn't have to be expensive, also don't rely on the car's (especially with a VW) mpg figure but work it out yourself by how many litre it takes to fill the car's tank from the last fill and divide by the trip mileage. The speedo/trip may be very slightly out but the error will be reasonably consistent and petrol pumps should be near enough - unless you are trained to do this professionally with professional equipment you have to accept things aren't laboratory precise. There's no magic pills, mainly just the basics that have been about for years.

I wish i had money to grab a 2nd hand Mii Electric or e-Up as a keeper / future classic. But i have not the money, do not need one right now and they are in demand. Cracking cars. Sadly the Citigo iV is a bit of a lottery charger wise. PS Just checked Autotrader. Hens teeth there. A few only VW, SEAT or Skoda advertised. Holding asking prices, so probably selling prices as well. People are keeping them if they have them. The early VW e-Up! is only for those that are OK with the poor range they have.

But then HALFORDS own Tredz & Wheelies. So that tells you lots. I used to use Tredz to buy bikes and had a reliable local delivery driver / bike enthusiast that found time to see what i was getting and help take them out the box. As for TNT and the other delivery companies, when i worked for a cycle shop we ended up owning bikes we never ordered and having to reorder bikes we had that never arrived.

If you still are unsure, post a picture showing the rear axle, preferably from in front of rear wheels.

The 1.2 3 cylinder engine was developed in-house by Skoda engineers using the gearbox found in small engined VAG economy cars, there were no six speed variants of this gearbox made at all AFAIK.

I have that problem on the Yeti, looking at it I am convinced that the mirror could be placed much higher on the screen and still have long range rear vision even for shorter drivers. I wonder if mine has been refitted incorrectly after a sreen replacement? I can see clear glass between the dark shaded area and the top of the mirror, I am not tall (5'8") but have the seat high. Does anyone have fitment dimensions for the Superb and other vehicles like the Yeti?

Step one is I'm writing to some of them to see if they have plans to improve infrastructure or to stop hybrid hogging. If the responses are essentially no, then it will be another few years with a diesel.

Don't put your address on the advert, the finder might pop round to see if the key works!🤔

Things have to move. Last year's model need to get first registered in various countries. Money needs to come in even if VW group are selling them to VW finance. There are far too many cars sitting with some old fuel in, AdBlue, oil, brake fluid, tyres. They should be discounting these cars built last year.

I agree not all BEV have green plates, but I’m sure we all get the principle. Hybrids do not need the charge and will make it home, a BEV might not. Even if they do charge it’ll be full in not long. If chargers are at normal bays sure, but when they are EV only parking bays next to chargers it’s just nuts.

Brilliant, thanks DieselMonte that's great. Sounds to be well within my skills to do this and will hopefully preserve the existing drivers seat cover. Appreciate your advice. Thanks Nige8021 for the socket link.

Here, isn't it? Often the only sensor on an engine with a single wire going to it.

With a car sales person / executive / dealer principal best that you just ask them where they get their stories. Is it from the factory from a reliable source or a document released to dealerships or are they just going on Chinese whispers and from a man who knows a man or woman. There is a load of guff being told daily and weekly and monthly by car sales people to customers and potential customers. Skoda / VW can do press releases if they want when they want to tell people rather than allowing the rumour mill.

I looked around on some UK sites and it seems you don't have a great choice over there. Over here in Germany they are super popular and all bike shops have a massive selection available. I've just ordered myself a KTM E-Bike through a work leasing scheme (salary sacrifice). Since my boss is putting £50 a month towards it it was a no-brainer. I had a test ride in the shop of a very similar one they had in my size. So 28" wheels and a 60cm frame size with 625wh battery and a Bosch motor with 85nm of torque.

Here you go. I had forgotten the foam tape glue got a bit tired last summer so I had replaced the foam tape with some silicone / rubber dots. 5 small ones along the top edge and one bigger one down each side. Kwality.com.

There is the rear Haldex Servicing. That is at 3 years / 30,000 miles or sooner. so on a 2014 car should have been done twice by now. maybe even 3 times. The rear diff might at some point benefit from an oil change. Just be sure nobody is mixing up the drain holes of the Haldex and the rear diff. So they need to know their holes....

Must be a known fault if they are doing this without question. I’m thoughtful of mine leaking having read a few reports. I know not to use a power wash on the roof. After reading this I did go out and check my boot and no leaks.

I took mine to a local wheel refurbishing place. Done in satin black for £40. Had them on for over 3 years now with no chips, corrosion etc.