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Mine in the country side 😀

Certainly glad to see the back of this today!

So the reason of the noise is a loosen bolt on the pinion of the exhaust camshaft. Actually almost all 5 bolts were loose, but one in particular was about to fall and was hiting the camshaft cover, causing the noise. The mechanic was very surprised to see this on a 4 year's old car! good news is that reparation was easy, just retighten the bolts.

Gandalf went in for the 75k service today - clean bill of health. 👍🏽 Car has done 64k km. Plenty of life left in the factory rotors + pads. Guess I'll b holding off for a lot longer for those dba T2 rotors and pads. Brake fluid flushed and replaced. Tyres good (replaced last year). Battery good (replaced last year under warranty). Factory wipers still in good condition. My 5 yr warranty has come to an end. Here's to another 5 yrs 🍻

A very good point. On the M27 near me it's a nightmare - joints in the concrete surface, old white lines blacked out, remains of roadworks marking blacked out, and new (and wearing quickly) white lines. Enough to confuse any driver (and lane assist) in the best of conditions, but then add damp surface and low sun angle. I can sense a disaster waiting to happen...

They aren't Torx (6-point) , they are XZN/triple square (12-point) heads. M10 size XZN bit required, despite the thread size being M8. See here for how to find out by measurement what size XZN bit you need for any XZN bolt head you might come across on these cars: triplesquaretable.pdf

The all-caps there suggests you may share the same worries as I have about real range of EVs on a long journey. I don't know how the WLTP range for an EV translates to 200 miles of motorway driving in the coldest day in December for instance. For an ICE car like my current Octy diesel, I see my best MPG figures economy on a long motorway run; I can just about beat its "official" (pre-WLTP) figures on a run like that. But in urban driving etc. I can never get near those figures. This must bring down the official MPG figures quite a lot;. So the official MPG for an ICE is made up of good economy at constant speeds on fast roads but poor economy in urban areas. But for EVs, they are much better than ICEs in stop-start urban traffic because of the regen. I imagine the official range figure for an EV is the other way around to an ICE; made up of good figures in urban areas, but poor economy at constant speeds on fast roads. Which means if you want to exercise your EV's range by long journeys on fast roads, it could be much more disappointing (compared to the official economy figure), than the ratio you'd get for an ICE. This video is interesting - a big battery Enyaq (official range 318 miles on that particular model) could only manage an estimated 200 miles range at 70mph, and that's before any lights or heating were switched on. Despite the claimed 300mile plus range, that guaranteed 200 mile range seemingly isn't there for any Enyaq. https://youtu.be/mmQJUW-VyRY?t=1161 The problem is that (as above) the current crop of full EVs have such mediocre range, and I'm not sure even the really expensive one's are that great. Whereas a PHEV is much more likely to get you there on one tank. A Range Extender may have to do a petrol station stop on a long journey (will be interesting to see the specs of that MX-30) but that will only take 5 minutes. The cost of those big batteries also drives the price up. If Mazda do release a Range Extender in the UK it will be interesting to see how much the petrol engine+generator increase the price compared to the cost of increasing the battery. The MX-30 is already quite cheap compared to many EVs, presumably because the battery is so small. The extra weight of petrol to give a 400 mile range compared to a 100 mile range is much, much less than the weight of EV batteries you'd need to give the same increase.

There used to be a saying years ago, that if you took your Rover car to a Colliers garage to fix one fault, it would come back with two new ones. It is in the spirit of that thought, that I start this thread. What I'm trying to collate in this thread, is modifications to Skoda vehicles to be driven by the average person, that were implemented and gave the desired effect, but unfortunately created a new problem that meant further work was needed to accommodate the modification, or meant that the modification was abandoned and deemed to be a failure. I don't care if people disagree with individual experiences, what is going to be a problem for some folks is likely to be a positive feature for others. I suppose I'd better give some examples of upgrades with undesirable side effects. I once bought a tuning box for a 90BHP Seat Ibiza. It worked in conjunction with a vacuum hose, and gave a good slug of extra torque and was fun to drive when accelerating. However, it was a bit on/off in the delivery of the extra power, and what this meant was that when cruising on the motorway, a slight change on the accelerator would cause the car to surge forward undesirably. This gave the effect for passengers of driving in a car where the driver is constantly either accelerating or braking and was unable to drive smoothly. The problem was solved by the company whop supplied the box, by replacing it with a box that used electrical signals to determine how much extra power to provide, and it worked pretty well. So while I got what I wanted with the extra power, I also got something I didn't want with on/off characteristics until the box was replaced. Catalytic convertor removal: I removed the cat on my Rover 420 to "release more power". It didn't release much extra power, but it did release a load of additional noise. This was all well and good when trying to sound cool vrooming about town, but on my daily motorway commute it did my head in, and it wasn't long until the catalytic convertor went back on and the de-cat pipe came off. Same goes for the Pipercross cone air filter I fitted. It added a load more noise, not much power (if any), and was an oily greasy mess to clean and re-oil. I'm pretty sure it had far poorer filtration ability than the OEM air-filter. So off it came. ( I appreciate that these two mods are changes that for some people would have been an unmitigated success, but for me they were failures.) Brake upgrades that need to "warm up". Great on race tracks, downright dangerous on normal roads. Suspension changes that lower the car so you have to modify your wheel arches, or you have a harsh ride that's only fit for a racetrack. This thread isn't about disrespecting anyone's successful modifications that they have implemented and are very happy with. This thread is all about capturing people's dissatisfaction with their vehicle modifications, and providing a resource of experiences that temper the natural enthusiasm of changing bits on your car without knowing all the pros and cons. I accept that what is an undesirable negative for some, may be a desirable positive for others. That's cool! So long as people can make an informed decision, that's what this thread is about. While it's aimed at performance upgrades (which is why it's posted in this part of Brisky), but if you want to talk about upgrading bulbs that caused a load of crazy error messages to crop up unexpectedly, that's good too. If the mods want to move the thread elsewhere, then that's okay with me. I'll start with a simple one from my experience, as I haven't actually made any performance mistakes on my car yet. I upped the base voltage at which the Start/Stop system would activate. I had intended this would mean the hardwired camera wouldn't be power-cycled by the stop/start system dropping the battery voltage below the "battery-saver" level set by the dash camera. The unwanted and unacceptable side-effect, was that it effectively disabled my stop-start system as it almost never kicked in. Now for some, that may be a very desirable feature, in which case, go for it. But I didn't fancy being stuck on a motorway for some time in a tailback with a disabled stop-start system. If I want the stop/start system disabled, I can press the button to disable it, I don't want it almost permanently crippled (though others may want that). So it was reset back to the default voltage setting, lesson learned.

Cheers for the diagrams, I've been out, removed the cover and bingo, it's the green highlighted pipe. Clipped the pipe back on and tested it, all sorted. Thanks for the help 👍

It's not. Any 'quality' SD card will suffice for a Columbus system. The faster the better though.

@john999boy FYI: your signature isn't visible on a mobile phone with web view mode on. Desktop mode on phone browser it shall appear, or in full fat computer browser. In response to your thread you locked.

Getting to basics, maybe best to tell us what infotainment system you have too.

Got a phone call from the dealer today and I'm booked in to collect a week tomorrow - it's actually happening!!

Well saved. Hopefully VW Group have a TPI covering this now. I can imagine the old 'We have never heard of this before' if anyone has a failure within or out of the warranty.

Have the car booked in, will post an update soon Thanks for your advice.

Front strut brace …. Yeah it stiffens the front up, but at the expense of increased understeer. Coilovers …. Yes it’s nice to have sporty feeling suspension, but as some will know that simply lowering the ride height isn’t enough as other parts of the geometry are pushed out of spec and can easily ruin a decent set of expensive boots! Not fitted myself, but reports on solid engine mounts have led to a more positive and quicker gear change, but at the expense of much increased cabin vibration. Too much for some who reported that they put the OEM setup back in as it was so bad. Finally, Big-455 4-pot brakes with fancy Porsche wheels. Yes, they can stop you on a 5p piece at 80 and it’s nice to have a posh badge on your wheels, but what happens when you have a blowout on the motorway and your spare wheel won’t fit over those huge callipers….. wait 4 hours for the AA!!

My previous vRS (2015 220 EA888 IS20) developed an odd delay in the internal heating. The silica bag was intact. The short story was that the coolant check valve had failed and was reporting open when it was actually closed. Simple enough, but took a long time to diagnose, with a lot of trial and error. I was given the go ahead to bring the car home, while the dealer awaited the part. Didn't make it home as the turbo grenaded itself. Turns out the coolant check valve also sends coolant to the turbo (but not if it's faulty!) and this was considered to be the reason for the turbo failing (I suspect other factors). There was swarf in the engine, so it needed a strip down to check if the turbo had taken the engine with it too (thankfully not). Skoda initially agreed to cover the costs as it was likely the check valve had failed during the warranty period, but then retracted this as the car had been remapped (after warranty). Long story here: My cautionary tale is that what appears a simple heating issue, can actually have fairly catastrophic consequences (which the remap may have exacerbated). For me that was a rather bitter £3,000 bill. Gaz PS: 'nuvver one; When I inherited a 1989 Mk2 Golf GTI !6v (139bhp), it had a K&N panel filter - one of the ones you had to clean and oil. I changed it for a standard paper filter, and confirmed via rolling road that the K&N, on this car, made absolutely no performance difference whatsoever.

Thanks found out when I'd been checking my fuses before I put one of the small ones back in the wrong slot! My own stupidity, but it's all done now, wipers and indicators working and car starting, thank you to you all!

I’d take the car when it’s ready and ignore the plate personally. I heard loads of dealers say currently people are taking cars a few days before plate changes even just cos they’ve waited so long. Don’t think the plate makes much difference right now.

Probably fail in UK on last category (the demarcation lines are clearly visible) Far to many seem to have residue from previous roadworks, so have multiple lines, or poorly painted lines The driving speed range is 90-210km/h. (56-130 mph) so won’t work on some Welsh motorways where they now have 50mph restrictions

That is how it is.^^^^ DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG's have no Service Schedules, Guidelines or Recommendations from Skoda who at good times build 2,500 a day and have done for years now. If a dealership employee says they do need an oil change ( there are 2 oils) then ask the price and where they get their info and can they go get someone with a clue about Skoda cars. ......................................................... Just as a guide. & This does not apply to DQ200's (and DQ381's are at 80,000 miles. but some will stick doing them at 40,000) Prices have increased at some places or with the Fixed Service & Maintenance deals.

Hi, Our Yeti is now 6 years old; last year it had the cambelt & water pump replaced together with service and MOT costing over £800. Last week it had a major service & MOT costing £432; with 30K on the clock it sailed through the MOT and no issues were found; DMK at Wakefield always look after it and it's never missed a beat whilst being a joy to own and drive; my wife and I love it; no chance of trading it for a car which these days looks like every other new car. Skoda made a huge mistake in dropping yeti production; we'd be now collecting our third Yeti and absolutely no way do we want a battery car. The government wanted owners in diesel cars a few years ago so we're in a diesel car and will stick with it; who wants to own a car that when the battery needs replacing it will be cheaper to scrap the car; this is progress? The only real expenditure other than servicing was to fit Michelin Cross Climate tyres because of our steep valley location; the tyres cost £600 a few years ago and were fitted by "Tyresonthedrive". DMK Wakefield always do a good job and our Yeti will never be taken to a back street garage to save a few quid; I was told if we did trade in our Yeti wouldn't touch the ground it would sell so quickly; it's in excellent condition and I'd like to have it fully rustproofed which I need to look into rather than bother trying to do it myself; it's the best car we've ever had the pleasure to own and it's a keeper. Kind regards, Colin.

Only in this weather do I now appreciate ventilated seats. They realty do keep ones back, bum and neither regions lovely and cool!

not mine, but first mk4 vrs ive seen in real life.. from end of may, i forgot to put it up.. colour looks much better than the photo makes it look.

For the Superb MK2, you should be able to get the very best quality (eg. ATE) front and rear brake discs and front and rear brake pads for about £250 including shipping depending on the brake disc sizes. If you go for Bosch discs and ATE brake pads, the price drops to about £200 including shipping, as Bosch discs tend to be less than ATE discs. Of course, it depends on exactly what size discs you have. The best prices will tend to be for the smallest disc sizes, ie. 288mm front discs and 272mm rear discs on the Superb MK2. OEM brake diagrams for the Superb MK2 on 7zap https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2016-768/6/ Also consider TRW brake pads, but unless they are a lot cheaper than ATE brake pads, I would go for ATE over TRW brake pads. TRW brake discs tend to be painted rather than coated, so I would go for ATE or Bosch brake discs over TRW brake discs as coated brake discs should offer better protected from corrosion.

If you did take the format route previously and you do it again make sure it's Fat32 and the cluster size is 4096. The unit runs QNX and they don't take too kindly to NTFS or other cluster sizes. Attached is the VAG gospel on the mib2 standard "how to", which is what the Amundsen is. Same instructions on file preperation across the brand covering fat32, 4096 cluster size, 7 zip and Keka / CleanMyDrive for Mac users. Discover_Media_MIB_Gen.2_June_2020_EN.pdf

Ask them why they didn't need months notice to **** your car up! Tell them that you appreciate that they are too busy to put right their **** ups so they will need to authorise an equivalent hire car for you for the period.

Thanks Wino for the advice, I somehow managed to get the switch working (albeit very much on the fritz), took it apart again and reassembled it backwards (by accident), it works enough to get me by until I get a new switch. I'll check the wiring in the door bellows anyway as due diligence but I may be lucky with it only being the switch.

Columbus You can use forum Search for "Columbus" etc

Buying a larger card will probably be the best way forward.

Are you using a Mac ?. If so you are suppose to use Keka for the unzip and run CleanMyDrive on the SD after. Just in case its a Mac issue. You are suppose to do that if using a Mac. Mib2 high it will stop the map import in its tracks but for a Mib2 Standard which an Amundsen is it will try to run with the gibberish associated with Mac characters that the unit may not like. That may well cause it to fail. You don't alter the cluster size. Those that have done on some of the cards have wrecked the card. Just a straight delete if using a PC and copy the unzipped contents onto it using 7zip. Mac the above. As said with an old fashioned format people have wrecked some of these cards. Windows 11 formats to a bigger cluster size by default it should be 4096 (correct number) and that can wreck the card if bigger. People play with the cluster size, it should be 4096 and Fat32. Those are the mistakes when people do a format rather than just right click and deletes what's on the SD.

Mine's in for it's 53k "inspection" service tomorrow. Hopefully just an oil change. The air filter is washable now (with a big sticker on it not to replace it) & I replaced the pollen filter earlier this year. DSG & Haldex was done at 43k so should be OK for a bit. No doubt they will find something else but the indie garage I take it to are pretty honest & realistic in terms of what needs doing & what can wait.

It's had two oil change services, a pollen filter one and brake fluid looking at the current record. I've asked for some cosmetic repairs to be performed (seat bolster had a small tear) and reluctantly have had to go halfs on a DSG service since the dealer refuse to pay for the full one! I spoke to customer services who reported the DSG oil change should be done free of charge as its a mandatory requirement to meet the warranty conditions.

Yes its from a Skoda main dealer, used approved. It's the 150bhp Diesel. I had to push them to do the DSG oil change. Hopefully just being a tad over the 40,000 isn't a big deal. I'll probably continue to get it done every 30k if it doesn't let me down. All other services have been done by Skoda from what I can tell - it's on the flexible service regime.

Edit in italic. Similarly a rear strut brace will increase oversteer by keeping the rear end flatter. I'm unsure whether both will increase grip or just result in a more sudden breakaway.

This is more a marketing ploy than actual benefit. Reason is that the C rating for battery cell is more important for long term battery health. The 800v cars have similar size battery to 400v cars. So the C rating for the cells will be similar. Only benefit for 800v is being able to pull and push more power through the pack as a whole when batteries are much bigger to be able to take that kind of punishment (or the promised solid state type in the distant future) So for charging network, 800v and backwards compatible to 400v makes total sense. If you want to average 100 kw charging, you'd be looking at arriving at low state of charge (10%-20%). How reliable are your planned stop locations? Does it have enough chargers for broken charger to not be a problem?

Yeah you're probably right, to be fair my garage is usually pretty good but yes I checked all them, they were all OK too.

There are some blade fuses just to the left of the strip fuses, I think, maybe check those? Not sure what a garage would do other than take your money.

Honestly no idea, gonna take it to a garage to get it checked over.

The language needs sorting. 35 kW sounds OK. In the UK a Fast Charger is a SLOW charger. 7 or 11 kW maybe. AC. a RAPID Charger is maybe a 50 kW DC charger. A QUICK Charger might be 100 / 100 plus DC. A Super Quick might be a 350 kW charger. Convenience is not what it is about it is getting your battery with power in and getting going. Not everyone has several hours available to park the car someplace that is not where they are going to or want to be. A 7 kW charger or even a 11 or 22 kW charger putting charge into a 80 kW battery is going to be fine for those not on a journey and needing to get on with getting someplace. HGV EV Charging Bays might eventually come to the UK Public Charging Hubs.

I’m going with the private plate option, sounds like you have some thinking to do. Good luck whatever you decide. Stay cool! 👍🏻

This happened the other week but posting anyway I drove up a mountain. For a car that's Polybushed and on coilovers, it did well getting up a rough dirt patch to get some of those photos. Could see for Miles around.

Hi, just searched for 'SOS' on Briskoda and came upon your post. I can help you out as that's exactly what happened to me yesterday. Car ( kodiaq ) 20 months old, 1st SOS warning of any kind, then Sat nav on my dash started moving me over to the lake district and I ended up in the middle of the Irish Sea . I tried a reset ( hold power button for 10secs ) but the system hung on reboot and I couldn't use it at all. Stopped at service station about an hour later - waited 20mins, still nothing. Drove the remainder of the journey with no infotainment. It's all working again today but thought I'd at least register the problem with my local dealer. Straight away they said it's an issue that several people have reported and Skoda have released updated software ( they just haven't informed owners of the known problem / fix ). Car booked in to have the upgrade. They said the update has worked for everyone else and are quietly confident it will solve any further issues. Hope that's of some use to you. Edit: If anyone is wondering what the SOS message means, the car is informing you that the SOS system ( which auto calls emergency services if the airbags are deployed ) isn't working. So it's still perfectly safe to drive the car. I'm sure VW / Skoda could have warned you of this without us thinking there's some major fault with the car and it's about to blow up.

Yep, sadly there are some. I am in a parkednoideawhenfinished club, which is also frustrating, I stopped being optimistic about a month ago…

I think I said before, but a small range extender engine, like a generator, with a 5L fuel tank or a LPG/CNG generator and 10KG capacity tank would be enough to get you where you need to be. Most hybrids are carrying a full engine, transmission and 40+ litre fuel tank, such that the engine can drive the wheels. If you're adding 50kg to a car, but saving 150+kg of batteries, meaning you can do 150 real miles easily, and RE up another 75-100 miles, then I've no issue with that. Sadly that' s not the direction most manufactuers are in and the octavia iV is adding nearly 300kg to the equivalent car.

We visited Sheffield park (in Surrey earlier) - well known for Water Lilies apparently. Loads of dragonflies around too Stay safe in the heat everyone 🙏

Romanian wheeled white goods update. 8000km done and it's still just OK, fingers crossed it remains free of the UK market reliability woes, but after 10 months it's clear that I prefer my ancient Seat Toledo (née Rapid) 1.0 TSI. The engine, handling, and especially the perceived quality are all superior in the old-tech VW product. And both cost me the same brand new, so Dacias volume models dont now seem so cheap really. The saving grace for the Dacia is the price of LPG, 50p a litre with the Spanish Government fuel rebate until the end of the year.

Well, clearly the Park pawl isn't locking the transmission properly. Why this is is a question for an automatic transmission specialist, not a Skoda main stealer. Other than that, there's an issue of technique; why are you putting the transmission into Park before you apply the handbrake?

that is real pain, when you to drive ~80 kms without Cruise Control and have to keep less speed than flow really can't understand where is problem, twice click on links i posted above - Pros and Cons have been described already: a) same size as all other wheels + can be installed on any axle + can be used for longer distances + no size diff = no speed limits + Cruise control will be available - boot floor will be pushed few cm up - most expensive b) custom 205/65r16 (my choice) + minor width diff will provide safe driving on + 30% of speed printed on spare disc. Important note, when installed on rear axle. + minor circumference diff will provide ability of Cruise control usage. In theory, i haven't had to use this spare after tire were changed. + fits in it's place, doesn't change size of boot. c) OEM 205/55r16 + lot wider than 'd' = safer than 'd', but don't think printed speed limit can be exceed more than + 10%, even when installed on rear axle. + fits in it's place, doesn't change size of boot - huge circumference difference disables usage of Cruise Control - huge circumference difference isn't healthy for 4x4 d) OEM 125/70r18 + fits in it's place, doesn't change size of boot - huge width difference = absolutely unsafe, even when installed or rear axle. - huge circumference difference disables usage of Cruise Control - huge circumference difference isn't healthy for 4x4