Leaderboard

My new daily driver, complete with personal registration. 😄

Hi all, Big big interior cleaning this afternoon. My Mk3 really needed it. Even vacuumed the spare wheel well! 😁 I also made some detailing on both front seats. I spent 4h in total, only for interior, and not even cleaned the windows (at least inner part) 🙄 too late. Driver's seat cushion (outer side, it's a LHD ) : Before: After : Driver's seat backrest : Before: After: Passenger seat cushion: Before: After: Thee rendering for passenger seat cushion is not really highlighted on these pics. One could even think it's worse . But don't worry, fortunately, it's a little better. To give you an idea, my Mk3 has now ~78000 km on the clock and will be 5 years old in late december. I heated a bit with a heat gun, while massaging the leather. It's tip I've seen on Wheeler Dealers or similar car restoration TV shows. For me, it was only my first try! But quite happy about the results. I heated at 110°C. It may look very hot, but it's only the temperature measured at resistance level. Actually, I was able to massage the leather, while blowing with my heat gun around 2'' away from leather without burning myself. Thus, I assume the temperature at leather surface was around 50-55°C ish.. ? I didn't have any reference regarding temperature, time to massage, or which direction to massage regarding folds. I just followed my feelings. In the end, since I expected a little bit better, I tried to massage with a barely damp microfiber towel, while heating to stretch the leather a little more. Once done, I let it cool gently. I then applied some Meguiar's Gold Class to nourish the leather. Unfortunately, it was too late to take pics of the final rendereing under natural light. It was almost nightfall. I'll take some tomorrow morning under natural daylight.

Unfortunately it's not only the right equipment but someone who knows how to use it and is trustworthy (not so easy in the motor trade I've found). A proper recharge of the battery will help regardless but you do need to check it's not putting off the inevitable but be aware car batteries are probably still one of the most oversold car parts (RAC, cough) but also owners not looking after the battery is the most common cause of car breakdowns and roadside assistance. A battery kept in a poor state will also make the charging system work harder - plus the VW computer programs will make the car owners suffer in all sorts of ways if they let the car battery go low, warnings, error codes and all sort of other punishments. 😆

Yes it is stop/start but when you have driven best part of 20 miles without the system kicking in once, you don't expect the battery to be drained sufficent to prevent the car starting after sitting in it with the radio on for about an hour and nothing else do you. I think it is the alternator clutch pulley at fault after Googling the problem, it does seem common for cars with 60,000 to 80,000 miles on the clock for this to start slipping in both directions and would explain why the alternator output drops so much when the engine revs pick up. There is nothing else switched on, radio, fans, AC and lights are all off but the output drops to 1A, even with the lights etc switched on, this does not increase. The car is in the dealers on the 5th for seat belt replacement on the rear offside, brake fluid replacement, 80,000 mile service plus MOT so, I've asked them to check on the alternator pulley and replace if it is faulty. I'll report back with their findings. This is the second time I had issues with the charging, last time was a year ago after I had driven 80 miles in the daylight so nothing on other than radio and aircon, so you'd have expected the battery to have been charged enough after such a long drive 1hr 45 mins?

We've a DQ200 in our 2015 Polo GTI, which has been faultless for the five years we've had it. Also have friends with a 2016 Fabia 1.2 which they've owned from new, with the same DSG, which has been equally faultless. I suspect the early problems from choice of oil pre-dates both these cars. If I was buying a '21 reg car I don't think I'd be worried. Gaz

I’m not going to get into an argument with you. I’ve told you the facts of the matter and that is where it ends for me. Just cause you’re annoyed at the dealer doesn’t mean you need to be hostile towards me for simply telling you the truth even when it’s not what you want to hear. I hope you get your car fixed in a timely manner.

Well finally got round to fitting the new exhaust. Before cutting through the inline exhaust clamp I supported the CAT with a axle stand to minimize moving the flexable section post turbo. I cut through the clamps with my Dremel fitted with a cutting disc. When the wrap round ajustable sleeve was slid along towards the front of car it exposed a gap between pipe ends of about 25mm. Using the exhaust pipe cutter (looks like a mole wrench with a short chain that has hardened cutting wheels mounted in the chain), I cut through the exhaust pipe close to the main box. This enabled me to remove both sections of the old system. I then used some emery paper and removed sharp edges on the ends of the new system, degreased it using brake and clutch cleaner, fitted it togerther together to check for fit, all ok. Took it apart and using Firegum to coat the ends, fitted it together using supplied chrome plated U bolts, nuts and washers. Left it overnight for the firegum to harden and this morning started car and left it running on tickover to warm up. Then took it for a slow drive, its a bit louder than than std with a slightly deeper sound. Dean before you say anything 😄 I think I prefer the subtle sound, its a old boy thing 😉

Worth adding: The front passenger door also had an additional control module (made by Continental). One of the connectors was so loose in its socket it would rattle just by giving it a little nudge. All doors have had plastic holders that rattle when the wiring looms move. All rattles disappear when these are tightened up with either foam or a piece of butyl in the right place 🙂 If I remember, I will take pictures of these areas when doing the driver's door.

No sunset as such this evening, but colourful nonetheless

The ID. cars from VW get enhanced battery temperature management in cold weather with V3.0 software. I expect Enyaq will get similar with version 3 too. In the meantime schedule any overnight charging to complete just before you leave as charging warms the battery.

As far as I have been able to work out, so far, the Enyaq doesn’t preheat the battery before leaving home. Preheating the interior whilst connected to your charger does at least save some battery power when you drive. However it does seem that the latest software edition may do some kind of preheating, all the information I’ve found so far is fairly vague about what it actually does. For it to do anything along the lines of preconditioning I think you will need to set a planned departure time.

Thanks for that and yes will try not to be a tit! I reckoned on not taking the glovebox out -can get the motor out OK I think. Were your symptoms similar to mine? Thanks

Took the opportunity to see these guys return from Rhyl air show. VID-20220828-WA0019.mp4 VID-20220828-WA0019.mp4

You could fit a slightly stiffer rear spring. If you've currently got 3Q0511115M rear springs, then 3Q0511115N will stop the rear end sagging so much while towing. Unlike alternative options, changing the rear springs from 3Q0511115M to 3Q0511115N won't increase the unladen ride height. Kilen 65127 or KYB RA5338 would be a good choice to match 3Q0511115N because they are reliable and economical. 3Q0511115N rear springs Kilen 65127 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kilen/12865401 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393379354984?epid=251920479&hash=item5b973c9968:g:2WIAAOSwxzJiMbDt&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoHOib0f1G4EzoNdQKZh52%2BdaYytaVdRQ9kjWTDvnZcou5iTxNRJNPAqom1DZExlvgty5JJCeb4Tujabg2eeqNMkhOCuylUbtDYHaUtNDaQ8%2Bof7RAi4E9WOqYKE5hfAWTNK6RiGflFC7k0iL6m1GzLOcE8nH45btO6g4kVKxDmcwe3SQOV0WVCVrL%2BnlonekGNDo%2BqiAjZObA0qqiUy%2Bwpk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6KHuePcYA KYB RA5338 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115n?search=OEN+3Q0511115N https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334488105247?hash=item4de10b711f:g:qdEAAOSwLr5iu7wL&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOUFIMaiK6NZFmGMwr1dy%2B4TGrEO1JnRxxepP1AS0o5vrzZkgnpC9NL%2B48R5vV3ZjKq1%2FeWx%2FPmrAWiOH%2FXdzOX1%2Fe4fzOiWcOdhiB8B2q3h16R7ye%2BVwFwCMkZPgdOk6P%2BRjv6f1rndl5zxjIkXPQ%2Fdi8VBEAw%2FIkWB1bjjbYxlDvr5kk5Lh2Q77THxJfTWHSbaFNJyXI3uhxLGAUpxjM0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6KHuePcYA As you can see in the chart below, build code 1JA+0YE means that you would have rear springs with OEM part number 3Q0511115M. Build code 1JA means the car has standard ride height. Rear coil springs for Superb MK3 2.0TDI 4x4 estate 1 3Q0511115AH Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YA 1 3Q0511115AJ Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YB 1 3Q0511115AK Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YC 1 3Q0511115AL Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YD 1 3Q0511115M Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YE 1 3Q0511115N Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YF 1 3Q0511115P Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YG 1 3Q0511115Q Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YH 1 3Q0511115R Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YJ 1 3Q0511115BC Coil spring 2 PR-1JA+0YK https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/5/511/511005

OK it took 12 laps but still an outstanding drive from P14 to P1

I can't say any better. 100 kg is way too much (at least, 10% above Skoda limit written in user's manual)... I think 70-80 kg would be much better to decrease your sagging!

My car is slightly newer but has done over 100k miles however I'd suggest you undue a couple of screws on the wheel arch liner each side front/rear near the sills to see what's behind. There is a design flaw especially on the front that traps all sorts of carp. Easy to clean out and rust proof but if left then eventually it would rot out. It's also worth finding the drain channel at low level entering the sill front/rear and checking if clear, one of mine wasn't! I used a thin knitting needle to insert. I also squirted Dinitrol deep into the sills front/rear. All the above jobs are quick and easy - if not a bit messy! Photos before/after + rust proofing sills:-

Some pictures of the various parts so far. Genuine O-rings, fuses and fuse holder, along with the connector for the PTC. The second hand alternator came and I stripped it, its from a 2007 Polo, as aside from being dirty is in pretty good condtion, lots of material left on the brushes. There are some pictures of the PTC and associated lower covering too. You can see the brown residue where there was once foam tape, and its location is why I wanted something fire retardent.

Evening all, I have been a member for absolutely years after buying my 2001 Octavia 1.8T (pictured) back in around 2007. That one was kicking out around 210bhp by the time I was done with it. I then had a 52 plate Fabia 1.9TDi (non-VRS) which was a brilliant family work horse for about 6/7 years, stage 1 mapped to 150bhp. Pictured also attached for what it’s worth 😂 After 8 years of being Skodaless we have just bought a Kamiq 1.0 SE 110bhp (also pictured). We pick it up Wednesday. Highly unlikely to be any modifying or shenanigans going on with this one but good to be back!

Traction control is kinda included within your esp ,you dont have a seperate button

Couple of robin shots

👍 Appreciated This is the sequence that worked for me.......suspend the main box from the exhaust hangers (I used Jubilee clips / washers to hold it in place).......fit the front section with the re-usable red side supports on to the cross strut, seal with firegum and U bolt clamp fully tight........ fit the centre section, first fit one end into the main box inlet ( you will have to tilt the main box about to get the ends to line up, the other end will then slide easily onto the front section, secure, finally fit tail pipe and enjoy.

Saying nothing at all! 🤪 Great job fitting it that. This is my next thing to do on one of mine.

Check your battery. Check it hours after the car has been run so you're not getting the remaining high from it being charged, do not have the engine running, note the reading. Then if you can note the reading whilst the car is cranking over from starting that'd be good. Then start and stop the car immediately, about ten times and note what the battery reads at rest after that exercise. I think it's best to start simple and cheap before moving on to complex, sexy and mysterious. The very hot and extreme weather and humidity we had wouldn't have been kind to the battery (or charging system) and if the effects of that didn't show up straight away they could still be there to show up a bit later, particularly this autumn and winter (I'm getting shares in vehicle batteries). Just driving the cars won't be enough a proper long, low, slow recharge, preferably off the car and in a more even controlled temperature if possible.

Does your car have stop/start with AGM/EFB battery? - if so all sorts of strange things happen to (over) charge the battery with spare engine energy eg on overrun. I spotted this with my stop/start as I fitted a split relay between the 12v boot socket and a cool box in my boot - this senses the input voltage and disconnects when it drops ie not charging. After a while I found it was turning off the coolbox every now and again. This is normal. I've found if I drive with the headlights on it doesn't do this.

Road resurfacing and repairs in Scotland might well be done in Spring, Summer & Autumn and even Winter on fine days or where the road crew want away someplace nice. Often it is done at the height of the tourist season and can causes maximum inconvenience, but then that is when the weather is nicest. The surface applied in many places is the one to suit the location and the weather or worst weather for that road or area. Winter, not a trunk route, and prone to snow, ice, flooding etc. ......................... There are tyres that can be crap even in Summer time wet weather let alone wet cold weather. Or just cold weather / roads. What there are is OEM tyres as fitted and for any World Region and 'All Season Tyres', as in 365 days a year. 'Low rolling resistance tyres' are listed on some Skoda Models on some wheel sizes. ie Scala & Kamiq. More often now all Skoda are on ECO tyres, SUMMER TYRES. even when fitted to SUV's, EV's. Part or Full time 4x4's AWD's. (Skoda sometimes have in a Brochure that cars have All Season Tyres, ie summer tyres, then offer 'All Seasons' as an Option, they mean 'All Weather / All Season'. eg suitable for winter.) http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/423163-are-all-weathertyres-winter-legal-in-eu http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/440953-factory-fit-all-season-tyres Different when 'All Season' is used to mean 'All Weather' which might be Summer bias & Winter Certificated. eg CrossClimates, + or 2 or whatever. Then we have Wet Weather Tyres, All-Terrain, Winter Tyres, Studded or not, we have all sort of term used around the globe. As to M+S Marking or 3 Peak M+S and 3PMSF then @Carlstoncan give you chapter and verse.

I thought all new skodas came with Europe wide breakdown cover that lasts whole warranty period? Bash the spanner symbol on the roof panel and check with the agent. They'll send out a mobile breakdown patrol who can at least read the codes?

I just noticed today that the inside boot lid trim has access holes already to access the screws to remove the inner tailights!! Hence no need to remove the entire boot lid trim!! Skoda....simply clever

Just a shame Lee can't be the lead presenter at all races, a true professional presenter who does research before the event to ask relevant questions and doesn't try and turn it into a comedy show like the Welsh t**t

Did the passenger front door today. Mostly the same procedure as the rear doors, except the front doors have two "crash clips" as VW/Skoda calls them. They are both located on the rearward facing part of the door. The bottom one is released by taking out a screw behind a small lid that pops open easily using some thin enough item. The top one is a one way clip that can't be "pulled" out unlike the other rivets. Instead it slides open when you lift the door card out of the window channel, no idea trying to force it out by pulling, it will break for sure. My 10€ plastic trim removal set has proven itself invaluable as I've been taking apart the trim in different places. No broken clips yet. Only thing broken are the small "hooks" on the inside of the door handle cover, but they don't really contribute to anything, the cover stays tightly in place only with the push-in clips.

Amazing how much the pre-show can be improved by using talking heads of Lee MacKenzie, DC and Billy Monger.

Yours is 2013 - is it a facelift model? It would have stop start, cruise etc if it was. My facelift 1.4tsi twin door does mid to late 40's mpg on most journeys although 50 is achievable. but it's late 30's- early 40's around town. Not bad for a petrol bus though. If it's still on variable servicing move to fixed intervals - your cam chain will thank you. Can I recommend a set of Michelin Crossclimate's - I fitted to mine a few years ago and it was way quieter than the the original Continental summer tyres (205/55r16). They have been fabulous in all sorts of weather conditions from 40+ deg C in Europe to northern wintry conditions - their forte is the incredibly wet stuff though, fabulous. Way way better than the Uniroyal Rainsport's fitted to my sons previous Octavia.

Scanning doesn't use up a VIN only if you do an adaption or re-coding does it then register the VIN as being used and even if you get the 3 VIN option you can just pay to upgrade to 10 or unlimited if you should need it

It’s been an EGR cleaning day today !

@domhnall will very likely be able to answer this for you.

Thanks for the reply....i meant is there a way to bring the battery up to temperature before leaving home on a cold morning. I'm just trying to maximise the range as much as i can

Do you mean as in keeping the battery at the optimal temp? You dont do this, the car will control of it this itself and regulate the temperate of the cells automatically.

But its not a court issue... and licensed or not, it doesnt matter because its not a Skoda garage carrying out the work that has diagnosed it.... Its a warranty claim, thats all it is, a claim. As far as a claim works - you state your symptoms and that is as far as you take it, they then find the cause and repair it. They dont take someone elses word on the diagnosis and cause, its as clear cut as that really. You may be right, but they dont know that. All they know and are concerned with again is 'coolant low' anything you add to that is you telling them the cause or not cause, they dont care for that and will find it out themselves else they wont get paid by Skoda HQ. I have many customers and luckily never any warranty issues. But if i did, I would book them in as soon as possible - Does that mean moving bookings around, possibly yes, but i only have a few on the go at a time, Im not a main dealer with 100s of people and even more queuing. Exactly what youre trying to do is displace people, because you have diagnosed your problem already you are expecting to jump the queue when it doesnt work like that and they will still carry out their own diagnosis. Ive already covered why certain mechanics do service work and others do diagnosis, so just because one person might be free, doesnt mean the person you want to see is free. You seem to think youre helping them by giving them a diagnosis but im not trying to be rude or argue with you, Im just trying to tell you simply how things are. I may be coming across blunt but ive given you the long and short of it, I dont make the rules or even work for them. Your diagnosis means literally 0 to them, they will follow their own set procedure based on the 'symptoms' not the 'diagnosis from customer' just because you want to skip that step doesnt mean they will. I do believe they will diagnose it and order parts and fit them all in the same period though, at least there is no reason they shouldnt. Also to add a different angle for you, before considering if the faulty parts are warranty claimable, they also need to look at things that may invalidate the warranty, They havent seen the car yet, they need to check the correct coolant is in the car, no additional damage in the area, the parts are even skoda parts and not aftermarket, any further issues that might need warranty work doing. I am not trying to be rude to you, im just giving you the simple straight forward facts, it may not be what you want them to do, but its what they are going to do.

Call from the dealer to say my car is finished & is on its way to the UK. Petrol vrs hatch ordered in October 21 🙂

Only the adaptive cruise control has a separate stalk, the cruise control fitted as standard uses small switches on the indicator stalk. There is a switch on the top of the indicator stalk which is moved to the left to switch th cruise control on. On the end of the indicator stalk is a rocker switch which reads RES+ at the top and SET- at the bottom. Once you are driving at the speed you want to maintain press the lower edge of the rocker switch marked SET- The speedometer symbol at the bottom of the instrument display will turn green and the car will maintain a constant speed. You can accelerate if necessary and when you take your foot of the pedal the car will slow to the set speed. If you press the brake pedal the set speed is cancelled. The speedometer symbol then turns white. Alternatively moving the switch on the top of the indicator stalk to the right against spring pressure cancels the set speed (moving the switch all the way to the right turns of the cruise control altogether. To resume the set speed, press the upper edge of the rocker switch marked RES+ and the car will accelerate to the previously set speed. Pressing SET- will set the current speed as the new set speed. When the cruise control is engaged (green speedometer symbol lit) pressing RES+ increases the set speed and SET- decreases the set speed. On early cars the speed limiter was a press button under the indicator stalk. Later ones, including mine, have the limiter buried in the driver assist menu accessed by a button on the right hand side of the steering wheel.

BMW E30... I think?

I have just re-read the manual and noticed that it says these, (not this0, functions can be deactivated simultaneously in the infotainment menu, so I guess that means if i deactivated the interior monitor that will also deactivate the anti-towing alarm. So, if you see me pushing a car off the ferry in Santander with a flat battery, I have misunderstood the wording !!

Went up to Kames on the Sunday to see some Rally action. Different classes of cars going around from 1l citigos... Evos Escorts And everything in between Only a small track but was spectacular seeing all the cars go round. Back on the ferry Sunday evening, have to say everyone was extremely nice, the food was lovely and cheap, the pints fantastic and far cheaper than what you'd get back home and aside from the average speed cameras, the roads are great too. Even though it wasn't much of a driving trip, this drove fantastic the whole weekend, all the changes done to it in the past week made a noticeable difference. Thanks to the sound deadening (and probably the increase in caster) its far more comfortable cruising on the motorway, its a bit better at taking bumps in the road, the K brace tightened the car up that bit more. Its still pretty underpowered but the intercoolers helped stop it losing a lot of power from heat soak. Wish the ferry was cheaper, its almost definitely the last time I'll be able to take the car over for a while. Overall a great weekend and even better seeing the stuff I did to the car paid off.

Took the ferry over to Scotland early Friday. Spent the weekend. Met up with some friends and spent the weekend there. An eclectic mix of cars. Went up around this castle, think it was culzean castle. Parked a way out and walked in. Some sort of mini car show there Big rocky beach near it.

That's how it is, with my MJ17 it only works when opening but not when closing. Unfortunately, I don't know what else needs to be changed. The people from CZ (Prague) don't tell anything but do it for a fee of 250€. And those who have it don't give out a scan of the car. So you could compare before and after. I suspect a BCM flash might help. But that's a bit of a lot of work to flash the BCM.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234668787561 Europe https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234668788274 UK With 6,4'' S21FE , and S10plus works OK Also I tested the car usb-c power and the maximum showed about 7W (this is of course very low-power), so I use a 10W PCB. After the car warranty expires, it will be possible to make both the connectors and charging more powerful (about 45W), but this is not so easy ,you will have to remove the center console.. ---- I am now testing a 3D printed trash bin in the door because the material inside gets dirty very easily. and I also want to make an armrest tray, but I haven’t come up with the perfect shape yet

search the forum for dsg thermostat. assuming yours is a DSG (auto gearbox) that is your answer .

A while ago I thought the new Fabia would be a front runner as a replacement for our No.2 car at the end of the year, but the obscenely priced Extra Packages have probably sunk that idea. The base car has been stripped bare. I’ll be looking closely at the competition.

Oh dear, how often have I seen this topic and had to reassure folk. My very knowledgeable mobile mechanic finally scotched it two years ago by going to the belt manufacturer directly. This five year business is unknown on the continent and seems to be peculiar (and unnecessary) to VAG UK. The belt manufacturer suggests it should be examined at 160,000 km - that's 100k miles to you and me and then examined every year. Apparently the belts are so much better now than when they started 40 odd years ago that they are often described as "for the life of the engine". My Fabia is now 7 yrs old and my mechanic states that the belt is "like new, why change it".

That will be the CJZC or D engine, these have a toothed belt for the pump. These should be checked during inspection services and the official change interval 120000Km as is the cam belt change, the exact wording cut and pasted from ELSA being Coolant pump timing belt: Replace Applies to all petrol engines with toothed belt for coolant pump Every 120,000 km Toothed belt and tensioner pulley for camshaft drive: Replace Applies to all petrol and diesel engines with timing belts --- Every 120,000 km Every 120,000 km there is no age change point listed by VAG Germany for ANY petrol or Diesel engine with a cam belt, this up to 2009 four years and 2010 onwards five years is a figment of VAG UK's profit enhancing imagination; the trouble is we have to stick to it as we recommended otherwise and one did fail, we would look stupid. This is copied and pasted from Elsa ( a bit edited as well) where it contradicts the previous info Intervals for CHANGING THE TIMING BELT and TENSIONER PULLEY TDI Common Rail CUSA, CUSB, CUTA, CYZA, CYZB Every 210,000 km Every 120,000 km Applies only to diesel operated in dusty countries. petrol engines 1.0L SRE 1.0L TSI 1.2L TSI 1.4L TSI 1.6L SRE CHYA, CHYB CHZB, CHZC CJZC, CJZD CZEA CWVB No prescribed change interval, Toothed belt drive with test interval, see "Further time- or mileage-dependent additional work"