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Hello guys, we have finally picked up our Octavia RS yesterday. Ordered July 21. I am so happy, I love the car so far. Only shortly driven it, can't wait to take her on longer journeys.

Hi brummie10 I would find it surprising if two injectors just "went", I suspect it's more likely that they have progressively worsened over the years, and were possibly faulty to some extent from new. The ECU knows fuel pressure and the time duration for which to open the injector to supply the desired amount of fuel. This is all fine if the injector is working properly, but if it isn't there's no individual (i.e. cylinder by cylinder) feedback to tell it that anything's wrong. If they were injecting more than they were supposed to, you would get poor MPG and uneven power delivery from the 4 cylinders. It's also possible that soot emission levels would be raised, which may have hastened the demise of the EGR valve by choking it with deposits. I share your frustration at the costs, inflated by the workshop time taken to cope with poor accessibility. The EGR probably costs £50 to make and £100 to buy trade. Then changing it requires dismantling half the exhaust sytem. The EGR may have reduced the NOx emissions (a bit) but think of the waste caused by having to make a new one, scrap the old one, change the oil etc etc. One wonders whether this emission reduction stuff is a bit of a theoretical exercise to satisfy the powers that be, with no account taken of the whole long term picture. Anyway, rant over ! As for asking for compensation, I suspect you would get nowhere with a 5 year old car, never mind a 10 year old one. Save yourself the angst and just enjoy your better running car.

Had to pull over to snap the sunset this evening.........

Vingers gekruist

60 MPH speed limit towing a caravan on a motorway. Once off the slip road just pick a lane to the left hand side.

Edit: N102460 01 is the part. Very cheap from your local dealer. see: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n10246001-bodywork-grommet-bung-3232.html

I think some sort of per-minute pricing need to be introduced for rapid chargers. This is what was suggested on speakEV: per kWh normally up until speed drops below a kW value, I think 7 is reasonable. from then on, a per-minute surcharge is applied until the car has been disconnected Have AC chargers available nearby for people want to slowly charge the last bit Tesla does similar at busy locations. They auto applies 80% charge limit and notifies via mobile notification. When charging stops, you get billed for every minute car has not been moved. I also dislike people who don't centre their wheels......

If you love your car get a proper diagnosis of any fault codes and issues. Then swerve the Terraclean. Service and maintain the car and if there are DPF or EGR issues have them dealt with. IMO.

Good to see some people getting cars. A couple of months back no one was getting anything. Disapointing that others are getting promised delivery dates pushed back. Can I ask those who order or are waiting for a new MK4 Octavia to add their details to the spreadsheet and keep it up to date as it gives us the best and most honest picture we are likely to get, accepting it is just a small sample of those waiting. Thanks you all BRS

Found this in my digital manual…

This is me being curious, does it start when cooled down? I ask as I had a similar issue on a car that turned out to be a sensor failing when hot.

Think the mirrors issue is fixed, at least for my key, need to try it with the wife's now. Thanks all for your help, 4 days of ownership and I think I've finally got it setup how I want!

Thankyou for your observations on my sensitivity, I'm sorry that I am unable to reciprocate. Have you ever considered that by the age of 65 95% of people will have developed eye cataracts, or are they just being oversensitive? If the sensors fail to react to the headlights of oncoming vehicles then the matrix headlights will remain on full beam pattern which is even more blinding than traditional halogen headlights, same deal if a driver forgets to dip his headlights which is something that we have all no doubt done at one time or another, we don't blame the other driver for being oversensitive

pre-ME3 setting departure time in app/infotainment when offgrid heats both battery and interior. If car is ongrid (connected to a charger) it won't heat battery, just interior. This behaviour is confirmed by several users who logged data overnight using OBD.

Great news. So maybe the original N280 was the only real problem? A previous owner possibly changed the HVAC module whilst trying to fix the system's problems that were (unknown to them) caused by failing N280, without success?

Hallelujah!! When I put the connector back on the N280 I noticed it has a very tight fit around the plug of the new N280 valve. Maybe it wasn't properly connected after all? Who knows, but this is really nice way to kick of the weekend. 00705 & 00706 are still there. But I set the temp to low and the fan kicked in (engine was cold). So I suppose unit B is able to communicated via CAN with ECU to request fan cooling. Would it be possible to verify if this indeed is the case.

My understanding of the OP is that the car isn't fitted with satnav, so there is no mapping to update.

Absolutely use cruise control with the van 👍

Lane Assist / Lane Keep Assist.

Yeah, you certainly do! The pace is quite extraordinary. It is and I’m doubtful whether the JB4 is really anymore effective, regardless of the additional connections and CANbus control it has. And I really wouldn’t want the ability to pi$$ around with the air/fuel mixture to extract the last ounce of performance. And for a laugh, I turned it to the ECO setting today and it was like driving my Mums Moskvich! Well…not exactly; the brakes actually work on the 280..

Hold down your menu button to check Software Train MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0475T Available MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T This location has the actual firmware update button

Not sure if 'fingers crossed' translates in to Dutch, but I'm sure you understand the meaning. It sounds consistent with the fault code, if it was making intermittent contact.

Measured both wires again. Minus from N280 to battery = perfect. Signal from N280 to Climatronic is perfect. I did noticed that one of the beaks in the N280 had quite a gap. Corrected that, hope it helps. No I’ll have to put everything back together.

Thanks for letting me know, must have forgotten about some.

Agree with You to some extent. But I don't like how steel rims looks. And i don't talk anyone into. I just share my opinion

Noticed the same on many cars, not an issue worth investigating. Needle sits at top, and doesn't move for ages, and then begins to drop as you say. General consensus on the way they calculate is they have a reserve of 7lt (read in their documents before) that makes it appear to seem full for longer.

I chose the cheapest option I could get from a local dealer which compared favourably with anyone else. The two things I specified were the choice of tyres and black alloys. I wasn't bothered about style of alloy, more about comfort.

I’ve had C19 twice, Nick, the first in April 20 when I nearly died and in May this year, when it was like a heavy cold, but as I have long Covid, it knocked me for six in terms of exhaustion, but I’m ok now. Our son also had it for the first time in May, and he felt like the had flu, but recovered very quickly so hopefully you won’t be too bad.

There's a new ICE Kodiaq coming: "During the transition phase to e-mobility, the brand is strengthening its product portfolio of highly efficient combustion engines and will be unveiling the new-generation SUPERB and KODIAQ in the second half of next year. A refreshed OCTAVIA will also follow in 2024"

Thanks again will have a go when I have a free weekend.

Nope

😆 Put it this way, you run out of road very quickly! That's decent gains from a plug n play chip! I've got to say the Throttle Controller had made me want to drive the car a lot more, at first I thought it was my tuning that at was fault. I have it set at Ultimate 1 and its brilliant. Most people set at U2 , it goes all the way to U9! After my few mishaps last year I'm so glad that the car is coming to together nicely, just a few bits to be now.

No SD card used for sat nav so that is definitely not an option.

Page 1 the 180,000 km car was built 20/5/2012 according to a reply to me. So it was getting oil & filter changes to a Variable / Flexible regime rather than Fixed Servicing.

Depends, but I ask to see the print out/screen. I have a battery tester now, but ignore the good and look at the numbers. EDIT: It is worth saying, that once you've found the correct numbers from the battery, then plumbed them in, then done the test it's not easy. You have to consider is the battery connected, temperature and a number of other factors, plus what the car is likely to need to crank. My last battery was showing good, but only 67% capacity, which might be ok for certain jobs, but certainly not ok for cranking a diesel in winter. I got the first hint when it took a bit too long to crank the engine on a cooler day, but was fine on a warmer morning, then bad again as it cooled even though I'd charged it. Sure enough new battery, which I charged before swapping started on the dot and stopped a couple of odd behaviors that I'd seen once or twice. When sensors use 12V as a reference voltage and it isn't quite 12V that they're getting things can get really odd, really quick.

Appreciate all the feedback lads. Will 100 percent get them fitted, but the right way!

VCDS will do most of what you ever want to do on a VAG and do it well. I've got it, use it quite a bit and it does what I need, but I find it clunky to use and having the cable into a laptop feels a bit old fashioned, especially when you're doing live data. My brother's got about £500 worth of Topdon diagnostic tablet. I don't do anything on VCDS that it doesn't seem to be capable of. It's a little slow but really intuitive and the Bluetooth dongle is great, and it works on all marques. The question really is what do you want to do, on what cars, and how much do you want to spend.

PM'd

@ZakG010 @DeanVRS20VT @kentphil1 - I've seen the same issue myself, more normally with people who've "fitted" Morette twin round conversions thinking them to be plug and play.

Thanks to all for your replies I was aware of the various parameters it would need to stop then start safely, but hadn't considered the battery, that said, the day after my post it worked perfectly!! AKA Sod's law! No real reason to suspect the battery as it always starts easily and have seen no aged battery symptoms, was going to check the batt V today but Mrs put the thing in the garage so it'll have to wait till its out again, then 1 to 2 hours to let the Volts stabilise. Personally I see it as software related so unless the battery is showing less then, say 12.7v after 2 hours with engine off, I'll take that route. As a newbie on here must say impressed with all my kind replies. Ian

I have the 1.0 e-tec hatch (2021) and similar driving patterns as you. We are three in the family and mostly the car is not fully loaded. In my opinion the 1.0 lite engine with e-tec gives you a very nice driving experience, only thing is that you have to force it (full kickdown) to get the rpm up when overtaking others on narrow swedish roads. Fuel economy is very good, long trips 63-65 mpg and with shorter trips around 56-58 mpg.

That will be a Liz Truss Tribute edition with increased maximum speed. There needs to be like a VED Band introduced for EV's sold / registered in the UK. More expensive if they exceed such and such a performance level 0-60 or 70 mph but can not do so efficiently. The UK can introduce an' Efficiency test where in UK average temperatures an EV loaded to revenue weight @ their Maximum Allowable UK speed they must be able to achieve at least 3.5 miles per kWh.

Odds are that the car would need unlock codes that they may not be able to supply afterwards (Skoda are not the best at retrofit, and miss out on money they could earn!) Best choice is to use Google maps to download the area you are visiting for offline use, you can use it now at home location too, it will save some of your data as it will not need to download the map chunks. Welcome BTW 🤝

Firstly, can you update to the latest VCDS version, it can be downloaded here: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/current.php Secondly, can you post an autoscan as the files you uploaded aren't one. There is a youtube video on this post showing how to: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/101/

The Model T pickup reminded me of this old Dodge Bros. pickup truck decomposing in the desert at Berlin ghost town in Nevada. I took this pic in 2005. It'd be interesting to see what state of decay it's reached over the past 17 years.

Morning All, I've just been informed that my car now has an unconfirmed build week of week 39 (end of September). So fingers crossed I'll be seeing my Hatchback VRS by Christmas 🙂

Flocking baaa-stew-ards!

The Superb uses D3S Xenon bulbs. .....and they're a royal pain in the behind to remove/replace!!

Skoda Fabia MK1 Diesel 1.4 TDI 6V 2005–2007 I3 BNM 1422 cc 51 kW (69 PS; 68 hp) at 4000 rpm 155 N⋅m (114 lb⋅ft) at 1600–2800 rpm 1.4 TDI 6V 2003–2005 I3 AMF 1422 cc 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 N⋅m (144 lb⋅ft) at 2200 rpm 1.4 TDI 6V 2005–2008 I3 BNV 1422 cc 59 kW (80 PS; 79 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 N⋅m (144 lb⋅ft) at 2200 rpm 1.9 SDI 8V 1999–2006 I4 ASY 1896 cc 47 kW (64 PS; 63 hp) at 4000 rpm 125 N⋅m (92 lb⋅ft) at 1600–2800 rpm 1.9 TDI PD 8V 2000–2007 I4 ATD/AXR 1896 cc 74 kW (101 PS; 99 hp) at 4000 rpm 240 N⋅m (177 lb⋅ft) at 1800–2400 rpm 1.9 TDI PD 8V RS 2003–2007 I4 ASZ/BLT 1896 cc 96 kW (131 PS; 129 hp) at 4000 rpm 310 N⋅m (229 lbf⋅ft) at 1900 rpm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Fabia#Engines VW Polo MK4 Diesel engines Engine Code Type Displacement Power (Max output) Torque (Max output) Years Top speed 1.4 TDI BNM / BWB I3 SOHC 6V, Pumpe Düse (PD) injectors; optional diesel particulate filter (DPF) 1422 cc 70 PS (51 kW; 69 hp) at 4000 rpm 155 N⋅m (114 lb⋅ft) at 1600–2800 rpm 2005–2009 164 km/h 1.4 TDI AMF / BAY I3 SOHC 6V, Pumpe Düse (PD) injectors 1422 cc 75 PS (55 kW; 74 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 N⋅m (144 lb⋅ft) at 2200 rpm 2001–2005 170 km/h 1.4 TDI BNV / BMS I3 SOHC 6V, Pumpe Düse (PD) injectors; optional diesel particulate filter (DPF) 1422 cc 80 PS (59 kW; 79 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 N⋅m (144 lb⋅ft) at 2200 rpm 2005–2009 174 km/h 1.9 SDI ASY I4 SOHC 8V, distributor-type injection pump 1896 cc 64 PS (47 kW; 63 hp) at 4000 rpm 125 N⋅m (92 lb⋅ft) at 1600–2800 rpm 2001–2005 160 km/h 1.9 TDI ATD / AXR / BMT I4 SOHC 8V, Pumpe Düse (PD) injectors; optional diesel particulate filter (DPF) 1896 cc 101 PS (74 kW; 100 hp) at 4000 rpm 240 N⋅m (180 lb⋅ft) at 1800–2400 rpm 2001–2009 188 km/h 1.9 TDI ASZ / BLT I4 SOHC 8V, Pumpe Düse (PD) injectors 1896 cc 130 PS (96 kW; 130 hp) at 4000 rpm 310 N⋅m (230 lb⋅ft) at 1900 rpm 2003–2009 206 km/h https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Polo_Mk4#Engines The Skoda Roomster 1.4TDI 69PS engine has engine code BNM which doesn't have a DPF. The Skoda Roomster 1.4TDI 80PS engines have either engine code BNV which doesn't have a DPF or BMS which does have a DPF.

As with so many other things in car world, engine code should tell you the answer. Go to the link in my signature if you don't know how/where to find this. Scrutinising years 2008-2010 inclusive for Roomster, the only mention of particulate filters in the 'fuel, exhaust, cooling' area of ETKA is for engine codes BMS and BLS, of which the former is a 1.4l engine, the latter a 1.9. e.g. for 2009 fuel, exhaust, cooling Roomster (RO) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com) I don't see any mentions of any alternative exhausts for BMS engines without particulate filter on the same page either, which seems conclusive. If the car has a BMS engine, it'll have a DPF, if not, it won't.