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I've not experienced this myself, but I'm guessing that (as you heard it trying to operate as you opened the tailgate) the problem is a broken wire inside the rubber gaiter between the car and the top of the tailgate. I believe there have been problems reported here involving intermittent/no rear wiper operation due to broken wire(s) in that gaiter.

You're surely going to have a big bill anyway aren't you when your MOT tester fails it for the missing DPF?

What a shambolic end to the race, seems the FIA haven't learnt from last years fiasco or are just s**te scarred of being seen to do the wrong thing again ? One good thing was Ch4 having Lee as the lead presenter, to show real sincerity about HM The Queens passing, as I hate to think what the Welsh guy would of done !

maybe happened when the timing belt got done, heavy handed mechanics 😂 they normally disconnect the reservoir and swing it out the way with the hoses still connected, any strain on the connector might cause a crack which eventually fails xxx amount of months/ years later.

Then you're perfectly qualified to give advice on complex technical issues.

Bored?

My fix My fix is still working, I pushed the socket firmly into place so that I could see the end of the female connector on same level as camera casing. I fitted a 1m lead from Green and this fitted OK with no issues (i.e. it went fully home with a "click" )

Spent the afternoon initially for what was supposed to be a quick bit of troubleshooting - which ended up all day job due to various issues…. Anyway think the inner door seal is partially contributing. Checked the seal on door and found the drain hole on bottom is where the seal runs and the seal itself has 2 own holes (ie not rips or bodge job) which I assume are to allow water to escape. Anyway that corresponds to a very wet part in the inner seal rubber at the footwell at the point above where the carpet is wet. So have got a replacement seal ordered. However I don’t think this is the main culprit. Decided to recheck the pan sunroof drain focusing on the driver side - since was only able to get access to the passenger side the first time round. Noticed that when pouring water down to test, nothing was appearing under the car - so am pretty sure that was telling me this was the problem. Knew where I needed to check, just needed to get access - that’s where the ‘fun’ started (not)…😫. Needed to get under the plastic trim cover at bottom of windscreen that meant needing to remove left wiper arm. When taking the bolt off i dropped it down the gap between wing and body with no way to get it other than taking the plastic wheel arch cover off. So set about that and thought I’d make access easier by taking wheel off. Loosen wheel bolts and jacked it up but couldn’t budge the wheel despite a lot of trying. Gave up and removed wheelarch covers with much less room to work with. But in the end retrieved the bolt- plus a lot of leaves and silt that had build up so was no bad thing as needed done and probably wasn’t helping with the draining. So back to the wiper arm - again ceased on and wouldn’t budge even after wd-40 and a pulling/rocking the arm with a worrying amount of force trying to prise it off. Assumed it was just on splines and should pull straight off - but again didn’t want to chance it incase there’s a special tool or something needed to remove - so left it on. Ended up going with the option of bending the plastic to a dangerously wide degree - but was still only wide enough to squeeze my forearm in - skinning it to bits in the process. Managed to feel blindly for the rubber spider exit valve which I eventually found and gave it as good a clean as I could under the circumstances. Thought I did get rid of some gritty stuff but nothing obviously obstructing. Poured more water down to test but still noting coming out on the ground but when I squeezed arm/hand under the plastic I did feel some damp esp where some of the foam and material dampening felt like it had soaked up some water. Finally decided to do a bit of contortion and try find the pipe run from under the footwell and more blind feeling up in behind dashboard (as didn’t want to set about full dashboard removal as still don’t know how to undo the plastic trims. Luckily felt a round pipe and with a torch cud just about eyeball it. But then was more blind feeling while wriggling like a snake in the footwell and almost dislocating my arm wrist to feel out a rubber grommet/bung at the end. But after a bit of blind felling about of that I got a flood of debris laiden water down the back of dash and arm into the footwell. So it seemed the pipe had come loose from the rubber and was barely connected - so I manipulated it back in and tried ensuring the pipe was well in the rubber grommet. Got someone to pour more water down from sunroof while I continued to feel round the rubber/pipe joint to make sure no water was coming out where it shouldn’t. Was all good and water drained down the drain hole very quickly (much quicker than previously) and could see a similar amount had puddled behind the wheel where I was expecting to see it. So I’m pretty confident that was the main issue all along. Just need to get carpet dried out and hope the rubber/pipe junction stays together as it didn’t feel very well joined - no reassuring click/clip in or anything. Might look to put my own bodged circlip on to try ensure it stays together. After all that, didn’t have the inclination to check the a/c drain - which probably would have been a breeze compared to all that. Thankfully now summer almost gone I might just keep the AC off so I don’t find that it is leaking aswell!!🤪

Why has bottled LPG not risen in price if it comes from petroleum? The 11kg propane bottles heating my current abode (caravan) in winter I thought were really expensive at €29.99 per pop but I have just worked out that it costs 19.4cts per kwh and electricity (far cheaper in France due to the government intervention) is 18.5cts so taking into account the standing charge the propane is cheaper. Something has to be wrong when propane is cheaper per kwh than electricity and its far cheaper for a business to use a generator for electricity even with the high fuel prices than to use mains electricity.

Exactly that. It sounds incredulous but that's correct. In my own case I eventually bought the last of the previous series and managed a deal to include the towbar. I think Skoda ( VAG ) group have made a massive error in not including this £150 option for towbar prep - it's tucked away on the brochure and price list. All dealers should include this whatever options the original buyer ticks. More and more people are taking up bikes and electric bikes in particular will become more popular as prices drop and fuel costs rise - it really isn't practical to lift a 25kg plus electric bike on to a roof carrier. Let's hope common sense prevails. Thanks for an interesting thread all.

So I assume it is the 2nd value (3590kg) which states the towing weight? And if this says 0kg, like mine, then it doesn't have tow bar prep and, in theory, shouldn't have a tow bar fitted (even if only for fitting a bike carrier?)

Yes No

When I read your reply Graham I feared that for your trouble you would become labelled as a small minded bully piling on. Agreed about modern vehicles, minimum 90 ampere alternator (charging at tickover as alternators always have) larger capacity batteries, geared starters and engine management systems and multiple crank & cam positioning sensors that mean the engine will always start in less than one revolution, I would be surprised if it even took 2 minutes to replenish the drain from around one second of cranking, I hav had voltmeters in the last 2 vehicles (aftermarket head units can cause the Canbus to remain active) and the charging voltage drops away within 2 minutes. There is no good reason to remove a battery from the vehicle in the event that it does require charging and several good reasons not to do so as you point out. If someone repeatedly posts rubbish in an authorative manner then others will occasionally call them out for it, that several people have done so should indicate something other than them being small minded bullies and cowards.

Hi everyone, thanks for all the further information, I have since gone underneath the car and inspected the egr motor and gears inside, they are in perfect condition with no signs of wear and the valve appears to move, I also did a egr test through vcds and no errors were reported. However the arm which is connected to the flap actuated by the vacuum solenoid was seized solid and not moving, I applied some wd40 and moved the arm back and fourth until it moved freely. So far this is the only issue I can find with it.

I would go for a set of 17" look on facebook marketplace Loads of deals

My model is the TDI 190cv 4x4 Kombi, GM and AL are a bit softer than those that correspond to me (GN and M) right now I have the raised suspension for bad roads (PPD) and I have HS and AS, they are quite harder than the standard ones but the car is a pirate ship from what it moves. If you are going to pull a caravan maybe you should put an N, I do not think that the difference in hardness is critical in any case and it is almost better to go too hard, since very soft will make the car sink with its own weight. If you want something harder, the next combination is GN and M and the following GP and P. Here you decide. If when they install mine it is soft, I will go for the following configuration that I tell you.

0304 is my software version i held onto the menu button like you said then i just followed the update instructions on the screen and the update message has disappeared, i've switched things off and on a few times and still no more update message, so looks like it's all fixed 😀 many thanks

Regarding the exchange unit, that has been dropped. Yes I am the same Crasher as on the VW sites. That sensor maybe reading that value as it isn’t fitted, the cars VIN would help me check.

thank you very much it works Regards Frank

😆 i only just sent off my application to become a Skoda technician the other day

My condolences

Get. The. Codes. Read.

Oooofffff I think we approach behind the bike shed at playtime time!! :-()

How does a battery know that it is being charged on or off of a car and how does it react differently? For someone who has only charged a vehicle battery once in 45 years you have very strong opinionated views on the subject but practically zero experience. Ditto for not having removed a wheel in 9 years, probably 10 now as that was posted a long time ago. Ditto for being an old person (like many of us) and not having worked on your own cars since your 30's. Ditto for your opinionated views on VCDS and other diagnostic systems when you have never owned or used one and have relied upon your neighbour or someone on here. And you say Graham is taking a narrow view! At least his is one of actual physical experience and not Googling.

It was removed due to a fire risk I do believe, new part to be fitted, but supplies seem low (more destined for factory first no doubt)

It is actually but I can't remember what the reason is for its removal There will be an update and replacement in due course though.

If your car is losing oil and it's not from leaks, or going out through the coolant system (e.g. 'mixing' and head gasket failure), then it's leaving the engine through the combustion process (or a bit further along) as there's no other way for it to leave the engine. After that it's a case of working out why that's happening. I agree with Bogdan regarding piston rings. Dry and wet compression tests and visual inspection might help reveal. But there are other causes - valve stem seals, turbo seals, a faulty PCV. If your mechanic can't work out what's happening, then I'd respectfully suggest you need a mechanic with more of an idea. Gaz

You might want to update your Profile settings as well as your signature. 👍

There is no yes or no answer sadly. The fact your water pump could fail any time and as its timing belt driven, can cause engine failure. If any part of the camshaft drive system is noisy, get it sorted instantly, dont wait around.

If you allow me, I thought a lot about the springs, following @Carlston's instructions, I ordered the ones corresponding to my model from the Lesjofors catalog (GN and M) and Koni Special Active shock absorbers, the latter I hope will provide something more than some Sachs or some B4. I am waiting for your installation that I will tell you once I have tried them. With this I want to tell you that you can do the tests that you think are necessary, but more or less everything is clear with this topic. What springs do you have now?

Morning all, I held off buying a mk3 Fabia as I was interested in the mk4 Fabia Monte Carlo, however since seeing the price I am now back on the hunt for a mk3! I need a daily for back and forth to work whilst I take my mk1 Fabia vrs off the road. Ideally I want a Monte Carlo model and the majority with low mileage near me are the 1.0 tsi 95bhp model. I have tried researching these engines but the reviews are just the mk3s in general and not engine specific. How reliable are these engines? Are they dramatically underpowered? Are you revving higher to keep up speed resulting in lower mpg? Is it worth looking for the 110bhp 1.0 model or even going for the 1.2 tsi? Thanks in advance. James

yes, OEM is Monroe - list of choices: 1. OEM Monroe 2. Bilstein B4 DampTronic 3. Bilstein B6 DampTronic and two lowering coilover sets 4. KW Street comfort 5. Bilstein B16 DampTronic Bilstein had long period with parts shortage, front pair of B6s i waited 5 months and rears 13 months, last not installed yet (ordered from Germany, Tuning-Expert.com) to avoid lowering i chose from weightier car - from Audi Q2 for Superb front axle and Superb AWD springs for FWD Superb as result front axle go 0mm loweringm and rear got ~12 mm lowering

Yeah that’s it spot on. Couldn’t of said it better myself.

Just had a bit of a skim of the thread. I've definitely got experience of vehicles going flat if left not running on SSA for a period of time, rather than being turned off. The battery voltages do sound a bit weak, it's always worth giving a battery a long, slow trickle charge (1amp or less) if it's looking that way. I'm not great on the science, but it does reach the places a fast charge can't. I've had a few chargers that claim to do all sorts of clever stuff to recondition batteries, but the one thing that works is a really old charger with a 1 amp setting. I've used a little solar charger to bring batteries back up with some really good results, might be an idea if you can't get a mains charger to the car. Personally I'd just run my mains charger out there and put a bit of old carpet or something over the lead. One thing that won't have changed since you were auto-electricianing is this - 9 out of 10 times it's going to be something simple or stupid rather than properly technical. Give your battery terminals a check while you've got the bonnet up.

They're far more likely to give a false positive due than a false negative.

Any external signs on the engine of where the coolant has gone? What did the coolant look like before the steel seal? Run the car with the header tank cap off, turn the engine off and see if it bubbles. Does it drive and idle smoothly despite the noise? Not the best idea pulling injectors on and off on a modern diesel, but if pulling the injectors one at a time didn't effect the noise you were looking for, I'd be more tempted to look at something that's attached to the engine as the source. Have a good listen around the engine, see where it's loudest from. A mobile phone video won't really help because you don't get directionality. I think realistically you're looking at two separate faults that between them look really bad. I wouldn't worry too much about the fact you've steel sealed it. It does work as a temporary head gasket fix. If there's signs of bits of it floating around, and you're fairly certain the engines not terminal, it might be worth doing a coolant flush.

@310golfr Are you on the same firmware as @Nagus? If you are, then there must be a reason (bug) as to why they keep seeing a non-existant update, this will need sorting out. Sadly unless you do complain to the dealer, then the fault will live on as they won't put much effort into a single car or a few dozen cars getting reported. So if possible, it would be helpful to at least post a picture of your current firmware to at least confirm your findings match each other.

Exactly that. Next year's model starts getting built in 2nd part of the current year. My22 cars were being built over a year ago. Some built last year only reached final completion into this year, and delivered recently.

I dont think that comes down to gender. The people that work in the showroom/aftersales 99% of the time have about as much knowledge as a 10 page powerpoint presentation when they first joined that covers the bare minimum. Male/Female doesnt matter theyre main job is simply to book vehicles in and not provide any technical knowledge. That being said, sometimes the 'technicians' have just as much knowledge as front of house staff... ie, none.

Wow, one more week to go 👍

Sadly thats not how things work, in fact its the opposite. If you keep replacing the part and it keeps failing its a question of 2 things - The part is of a really bad quality every time. Or something ELSE is causing it to fail. I would first be checking the condition and concentration of that coolant, making sure its the correct one for the car and not just rubbish.

Had a call from the dealer today - car apparently is on a boat and should be at the dealer mid-late October. (have updated spreadsheet) Will make it about 16 months from order to arrival - compared to last car ordering in 2013/2014 which took 4 months.

I do see it now when i am waiting for pick up from plant.

The factory strut braces were (supposedly) fitted to help control the front crumple zone - they were fitted on models with airbag(s), which have G-sensors on the center tunnel, so I guess it'll put more stress over that area on the Favorit in the event of crash (center tunnel and its connection to front chassis rails was one of the reinforced areas on Felicia). Not sure if it'll have similar effect during normal operation.

Even better. Pick up date is now confirmed september 14th. Happens to be also my birthday. 🤩

i did get now information that my car is waiting for transport

DPF Removal has nothing to do with it. Might be your piston rings. Mine's also drinking up more oil than yours.

My dealer told me yesterday that mine should be soon in my hands, just how soon he didn't tell me ;/ .

I ask, because I hope mine will be on the same truck, but I know that is very unlikely.

Um... you?