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I heard from the dealer today. My VRS has arrived and I can collect it next Tuesday. Yay!!

So an update.... The Skoda garage (unsurprisingly) failed to sort the sat nav. They have done a full tech download and are going to send this to Skoda technical about how to do it. They have also spotted a number of things that should have been done (engine oil, pollen filter etc) which the garage we bought it from will sort. In our investigations we have been told the original purchaser bought the car directly from Skoda UK online and simply collected it from a Skoda Garage. They had no idea it was an Australian car, although we don't know if the sat nav worked for them and got messed up when they cleared their personal data. We are trying to get more details of the original order from Skoda UK but I presume this means that it was them (Skoda UK) who registered the car with the DVLA in the UK? So if they supplied an Australian car (which is what the ViN says it is) then they have seriously messed up with no certificate of conformity etc. thoughts welcome

I was able to add anything I want to the car till this month. Dealer also said this won't push my order to the end of the waiting list. I added things like heated steering wheel, heated seats, child lock, sun blinds, heated windshield... There was also no request from Skoda about the reverse camera, so it is still in the order. I also don't think cameras are still a problem, because it is again available for order in the configurator.

I don't suppose he's tried to prove it with a dry and wet compression test?

Hey all 😊 Short update: my finished car is still waiting for transport from Cz. I guess now the quantity surprised them and can’t keep up with the trucks 🤪 Hopefully it arrives some time next week, until then I am due for a short visit to the dealer for paperwork. I’m kinda in the dark here, haven’t had a brand new car yet 😊 It’s been surprisingly quiet here knowing that most of the banked cars is now finished?

Start with the fuses and next time remember to disco the battery negative before playing silly buggers with the electrics.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I never even though about 16" wheels but where suitable I'm a big fan of smaller, narrower wheels and narrower tyres with sensible (higher) profile sidewalls. As has already been put and on another thread, particularly here the wheels and tyre sizes are often well over the top fashion stuff. With the state of our roads you need all the 'rubber' and air suspension you can get.

There is a good market place for selling or buying wheels, tyres and other stuff on a Skoda enthusiasts forum. A small fee for selling and buyers might be well informed as to what a Skoda is. I think the forum is called BRISKODA or something like that.

I suggest you change your wheel size (tyres and rims). There's a good market on ebay for secondhand wheels, so you shouldn't have too much difficulty shifting your old wheels if they are in reasonably good condition. If you're looking at new tyres and rims, 16" will work out cheaper than 17" because steel rims are available in suitable 16" sizes, whereas suitable rims for the 225/45R17 tyre size will only be available in aluminium. 205/55R16 tyres will be cheaper than 225/45R17 tyres. 205/55R16 tyres will be noticeably more comfortable than 225/45R17 tyres. 205/55R16 are generally quieter than the wider 225/45R17 tyre size. 205/55R16 will reduce the fuel consumption a little, compared to the wider 225/45R17 tyre size due to less weight and reduced drag. So lots of benefits in going to the narrower 205/55R16 tyre size compared to 225/45R17. Michelin CrossClimate 2 205/55R16 https://www.blackcircles.com/tyres/205-55-16?seasonal=allseason&manufacturer=michelin&delivery=1&id=11377 Michelin CrossClimate 2 225/45R17 https://www.blackcircles.com/tyres/225-45-17?seasonal=AllSeason&manufacturer=michelin&delivery=1&id=11377 The above 16" Michelins are labelled at 69dB and the above 17" Michelins are labelled at 71dB. So the 16" Michelins are quieter than the wider 17" Michelins. You can see on mytyres that both 6Jx16 ET50 5/112 57.1 steel rims and 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rims are available. The narrower 6J rims are a winter tyre size, but would be ideal for use with all-season tyres because they are officially winter rated due to their 3PMSF (3 Peak Mountain Snow Flake) symbol. This means that they have passed a test for good traction in the snow, which is why they are winter rated. The narrower 6J rim will also provide more comfort than the wider 7J rim. This is because the tyre sidewalls flex more easily when fitted to narrower rims. 16" steel rims https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/rim-selector?type=steel&vehicle_ids=182113210420171888%3A%3A0001 The main reason for going to 17" over 16" is the appearance. However, you can get some attractive wheel trims in the 16" size. The below is a VW wheel trim, but Skoda wheel trims are also available. https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Original-Pieces-Complete-Sportsvan-1T0071456A/dp/B01C22X3HK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1N7LZK92TCZFN&keywords=vw+16+zoll+radkappen&qid=1663075781&sprefix=vw+16+%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-3 Skoda Octavia MK3 steel rims (6.5Jx16 ET46 and 6Jx16 ET48) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/rim-selector?type=steel&vehicle_ids=185949956245308528%3A%3A0001 Skoda Octavia MK3 wheel trim for 6Jx16 ET48 steel rim https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/celoplosne-kryty-kol-nordic-16/p/5E0071456E Skoda Octavia MK3 alloy rims (6.5Jx16 ET46 and 6Jx16 ET48) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/hlinikove-disky/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AOctavia%2BIII%2B%282017%2B%29&show=Page# I've included links to Octavia MK3 rims because they are a similar specification (but not identical) to Superb MK2 rims, ie. 6.5Jx16 ET46 and 6Jx16 ET48 for the Octavia MK3, and 7Jx16 ET45 and 6Jx16 ET50 for the Superb MK2. This opens up a lot more options. "skoda eshop cz", for example, are no longer listing any alloy rims for the Superb MK2 but are still showing plenty of Octavia MK3 alloy rims.

Without a doubt! And at that price its a bargain!

Never base a timing belt off a different cars belt intervals. Different belts are made from different materials, under completely different stresses, different width so more load spread. Its not a one size fits all question and its a dangerous way to think about it.

Thanks again everyone don't think I'll have any problems now, good advice from you all.

A quick way of checking is to look at the specs on a Skoda website for another country, eg Skoda.de or Skoda.ie etc. They tend to have smaller wheels as standard, with the larger sizes as options. Fitting big wheels as standard seems to be a British thing. I once heard a dealer say can’t have smaller wheels as wheel bearings are different. The idea that different bearings for same weight of car are country specific baffled me. Remember many European countries have smaller rim winter wheels, but outside diameter of tyres should be about the same.

Can I suggest this goes in the Wheels & Tyres forum as it's of interest to other models also?

It's fine to push the piston back with or without the old pads still in place, it's also fine if the front pistons rotate while you're doing it. The rears, however, must be pushed straight back without rotating because this could damage the electric park brake mechanism. I use a g-clamp on cars and motorcycles, and a screwdriver between the old pads on pushbikes.

The tyre test results are done to a set of parameters. In practice you will drive at varying air temperatures, and on roads with different grades of tarmac. So the lab results will not match real world. And noise in the car is different to if car drives past you. If it was me, and wanted a quick comparison of tyres for all year use in UK, then the Auto Bild (a German motoring magazine) comparison is a good start. (Remember some tyre places have preferred manufacturers due to incentives or ownership, so might not give impartial advice). If you live in south then perhaps look for those with better wet & dry than snow etc so adjust overall ranking depending on weather where you live. https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2022-Auto-Bild-SUV-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm

In Tauranga - made a quick trip to meet a fellow quattro owner Andy who kindly gave me a fitting to fix the fuel pump wire, which has been getting a bit warm by the look of it. The crimp is gone, now soldered properly. It was a long day and I forgot to take a pic of the new wire but it’s much better now 🙂 Not the source of my issues but it can’t have been helping. It has been suggested the fuel pump relay might be part of the issue. Looks a bit corroded on the bottom but inside seems okay. But it turns out Repco do a replacement for $8.99 so that'll do!

Interesting trip home! The car ran flawlessly for the first 2 hours then started to lose boost again. 500km covered with about 12 stop/starts needed and lots of driving with no throttle.

600km road trip did not go as planned! I made it to my destination with several issues. It started when I hit a bump in the road and immediately lost all boost. Turning the car off and on brought it back. From that point, the car gradually restricted boost more and more as it ran, to the point where after 10-30 minutes of driving I had no boost and could only cruise at 3500rpm with no throttle. Hills were very tricky. And New Zealand is hilly. Stopping the engine and restarting gave all the boost back each time, until it went away again. Also I seem to have lost part of a transmission or engine mount. Then it started raining hard, and it seems a new feature is that my windscreen lets water in at both bottom corners. Above the wiring and relays at one side and the ecu at the other. Also the boot is leaking. So a very frustrating day. Another #gumbootrally almost attended! We did the rally in another car so all was not lost. https://i.imgur.com/Bl8cTPB.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eqXai9K.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EZdGvx1.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GO77bcM.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9lmlA2R.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MZwZpfD.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hWvLSeF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HPiIbOr.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SoRX4Z4.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kh3gxzt.jpg https://i.imgur.com/rF8ifVQ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8AcrMUi.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HLasApY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/b8JQOKL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nKdw5CA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/aSvXz9L.jpg https://i.imgur.com/KwRkASl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vfeElnu.jpg

My car arrived last week but I still don't have a pickup date because my dealer still hasn't prepared the paperwork. They HOPE I will be able to pick up the car by the end of this week

Both the front and rears push straight back, but, for the rears, you have to use a diagnostic tool to electrically retract the electric park brake mechanism first.

This questions not even for me just a family member who is looking to buy a used Karoq. He struggles with arthritis so favours the higher driving position and wants an auto. He currently runs a VW Jetta 1.6TDi DSG. He also leans towards the idea of another diesel but I suspect that view could be changed. As far as I can see they come in two engine sizes for the diesel a 1.6 or 2.0ltr. Are both of those up to the job or is the 2.0 better suited to a larger vehicle. I assume both engines need adblue due to them being relatively new engines?? Are there any significant issue that crop up or niggles that are common? Budget is £18K ish We've not been able to spot an auto locally, so not even got so far as a test drive as yet, though we have kicked the tyres on a couple this morning just to see what you can get for you money.

So I got a call from my local dealership yesterday asking if I'd still be dropping off my Superb today at 10am for the diagnostic. I confirmed and asked how much it would cost to replace the timing belt. £600 was the reply so I told them that I'd leave it for now. I than rang around a couple of garages for alternative quotes and the best I got was from a local specialist who quoted me £525 to replace both the water pump and belt. My thoughts were that if the pump couldn't be fixed under warranty then I'd take my business elsewhere. But then I recalled the that the technician that I'd spoken to previously had told me that the labour cost to replace the belt would be less, as they've already stripped the parts down to check the pump. So I rang the girl back to inquire if this was the case and was told that they'd only be able to confirm the costs after the technician had stripped it down. Great! So I dropped my Superb off with them this morning, hoping that they'd diagnose the water pump as faulty. To be honest, I was expecting them to say that it's perfectly fine, they can't find any issues and I owe them £109. Then surprise surprise, at 2pm I got a call from them telling me that the pump was indeed faulty and would be repaired under warranty. Fab news, what about the timing belt though? Well with the reduced labour cost and belt kit that'll come to £332.44. Would you like us to go ahead with that? DAMN RIGHT I WOULD! So I've left it with them and it will be ready to collect sometime tomorrow. So all in all I think that's a pretty good result. Now I just need to sort my claim out for unplanned hotel costs with the European AA. 🙂 Mart

Thank you for explaining. If i look down into the hole the rod sits in there is a concave surface with a hole for the oil. I guess this is the top of the hydraulic lifter. Apologies for questioning you.

Change now is lost mileage, it'll be reset to max 30,000km or such. Keep on driving!

That website is wrong because it doesn't know that you have 312mm diameter front brake discs. It shouldn't be showing the rim touching the brakes. 205/55R16 is a factory option on some Superb MK2 cars with 312mm front brakes. If you had a lower powered Superb MK2 with the smaller 288mm diameter front brakes discs, that website would still show the rim touching the brakes even though there would be loads of room. If you compare 225/45R17 with 205/55R16, that website shows that there's plenty of room between the brakes and rim. However, that website is worse than useless at showing whether the brakes will touch the rim because it is misleading. It's not actually designed to show whether the rim will clear the brakes as it doesn't have the data to come to a rational conclusion.

Hi, no sorry I never filled it in. Was a VRS hatch TDI 4x4 ordered 11th August 2021 in the UK.

Thanks for the suggestions @Carlston from looking on some of the "will they fit" type websites suggested by other members, I have more or less established that 16" would be very close to not fitting over the brake discs and calipers . . . . With this particular post, I am looking to see if any members are running different rubber on 18" rims and have found them to be markedly quieter.

Most specialists will replace the dual mass flywheel while doing the clutch packs as the gearbox is adapted to each car and using an old dual mass flywheel can create issues as they shim the clutch packs to a tolerance , having seen a few of these dq200’s fixed a good method is to remove the inspection port for the gear selector folks and clean them off (they get covered in metal filings and that stops them selecting gears , some people will charge to replace clutch packs when this is all that is needed in reality

Yes, you can see why we're kinda holding out....However, one key point is that the car has been registered already (and we have the V5 form) despite not completing delivery i.e. no payment. So the car already has an assigned owner, so surely this will impact the price they can sell this at if we walk away? But perhaps the lost in that is still smaller than the difference from the gov grant and discount that they have already agreed?

Thanks everyone. I bought it in March 2021 as an Approved Used car from Skoda, allegedly serviced prior to delivery. The one earlier this year was the first time I had it done and from memory the car was asking for one. I suppose they could have changed it. Although the local dealer here found and corrected a few things that the supplying dealer had missed off the previous service..... 😏

Thank you. I have been reading through the site for about a week. Already obtained a huge amount of info. Looking forward to more and getting to interact with people. Figured this was an awesome resource, so wanted to jump on board.

thanks all, very helpful I might risk it for a few months yet. i'm currently coming up to 60k miles, I remember on an Alfa Giulietta I had it wasn't due until around 72k

@Qmc10 Your car left the factory with Long Life Oil and on a Variable Service Regime. They all did for the UK other than Citigo, and now PHEV's. 24 months / 18,000-20,000 miles. What ever comes first. At the PDI it was maybe changed to Fixed Servicing. 9,400 miles / 372 days. Or that happened at a service since the PDI. All along the Service Indicator might have had 2 messages. Oil Service, & Inspection Service and one might have been annual and the other bi-annual. It is not uncommon for those doing a service to change a customers cars service regime because they can or because they are useless and just mess things up.

Glad they was able to supply your PR Codes to you. As for the wheel choices, odds are he is not sure really (or covering himself) The car when configured may have been 17" as standard, with optional 18" but even if it came with 18" as standard for your model, those cars on 17" are still on the same frame and suspension setups more than likely. I am sure someone with more experience or time will be able to verify the different offset values and report back that it will be ok. Best of luck with your journey!

Morning @roottoot Sorry that I didn't include more info, I didn't want to bombard people with a wall of text that might not be relevant to the post. Are you doing this conversion yourself and fitting this non-electrical pump? Yes I've been looking at doing the belt and water pump change myself. Haven't decided on the pump yet, was hoping to get some other opinions before I bought one or the other. What actually have you done in the past year of dealing with the overheating other than changing the thermostat? Honestly other than replacing the thermostat and flushing the coolant, nothing else. But the way mine overheats sounds exactly like the experiences others have described with the failing water pump. There are quite a few YT videos on VW and Audi 1.4/1.6/2.0 TDI engines overheating with the switchable water pumps, who suggest replacing the pump with the non switchable. I believe there was one video where a Skoda taxi garage mechanic said they switched to non-switchable pumps as the one's they had fitted with the switchable kept coming back in. I didn't want to fit a new pump for it to stick again, which is why I was thinking of doing the same and just wondered if anyone else had or what others thought of doing so. How many miles has the car done, and why did you not just change the water pump or has it been changed already on a 8 year old car? 50k miles and I don't think the pump has been changed, at least from the paperwork that was handed over. Thought I'd do the belt at the same time as I doubt that's been done either. Then I came across people who replaced the pump with the non-switchable. I know it's over the advised time for a belt change but it's just tipped over 50k. I've seen other makes VW, Audi, etc with the same/similar engine with higher change intervals but regardless it will be done soon. Even if it's just for my own piece of mind. This will be my first big job, at least big for me, but doesn't look too complicated from looking through the workshop manuals and helpful videos going through every step. Just with people suggesting non switchable I wanted to see what others thought before I ordered the parts. I realise it's past the age the pump should have already been replaced so maybe I'm overthinking this and just replacing it with the switchable will be fine until the next change interval comes round. Sorry for wasting your time if this turns out to be a pointless post.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Now you have the general overall information you might be best putting up a thread in the appropriate Superb section and see what other 4x4 owners find to be a quiet and/or recommended tyre. Bear in mind a tyre that was great bought two years ago could have changed in it's build (or model) and you can get varations from just production too Hope I've got the correct model for a quick look here too (with all the previous proviso from my last post. - https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyres_For/Skoda/Superb-II-4x4-2.0tdi.htm

Might be just worth checking that none of the pins at the a-pillar/ door connection got bent while removing and replacing the plugs, and that the new plug is fully seated after doing so. Not unheard of for weird problems to be just down to a plug that's not fully 'home'. If you can be without use of the car for a few days I'd be happy to try to rework your original loom bits if you were to pull it all out and post to me. Don't suppose you're anywhere near Oxfordshire? PM if interested.

One could mount a strong argument that a pedal box is a necessary expense 🤣

I haven't counted but I've spent at least 20h cleaning the cylinder head and installing the new valves. I had to go into every nook and cranny to remove the old sealant, clean the head cover, the exhaust manifold, polishing the inlet and exhaust ports, polishing the injector ports, lapping the new valves into place and so on. The exhaust threaded pins (from both ends) where quite rusty so I've used a tap and die kit to re-thread them and I can now turn them by hand. When lapping the seat for a new valve I've first used the coarse paste, removed one suction cup from one end of the lapping tool and stick it in an electric drill. Then I've cleaned the paste, reapplied fine paste and finished the lapping by hand. You could hear the change in pitch when the seat and valve were perfectly polished. I was about to put the head back on when I've noticed in my gasket set 16 green caps which turned out to be valve stem seals. I wasn't even aware those could be changed and no one here mentioned them. I am now convinced those are to blame for my increase oil consumption given the state of the old spark plugs and valves which were covered in a thick layer of carbon. The green rubber was much harder on the used ones compared to the new from the set. I just wish I've noticed them one day earlier because I had to take the valves off and put them back on again and instead of half an hour it took me another 4h. For the valve removal I've used this tool which was incredibly good for its price. I've used it twice on 16 valves and it hasn't bent at all. For the stem seals you need yet another tool. This one was also cheap but not as good. I had to file down the extractor (which looks like a forceps) clamps to make them close better and the gripping ribs are not deep enough. It takes several pulls until you can remove one valve seal. The insert tool from this same kit was perfect. It pushed down only on the metal part of the seal evenly on all sides and they are all changed now. Tomorrow the cylinder head and exhaust turbo go back on the car.

Loving the username by the way. 😁

See this youtube video starting at 2 minutes 16 seconds, where the autodoc mechanic uses a wind back tool with an adaptor. It looks like he has taken my advice about being careful not to rotate the piston, because he has left the piston side brake pad in place while he pushes the piston back. thi

So, I went to the Skoda dealership over the weekend, and they were very helpful and accommodating, the parts desk guy was happy to give me a print out of the spec of my car, and also the original wheels fitted to the car, which turned out to not be the ones currently fitted, but another of the same size but different design . . . . . curious! He also had a look on ETKA and whilst he was able to find that there were 17" options for the Superb, he would confirm that they would fit my car, as he kept referring back to the ET figure being different, and that my specific car was intended to run on 18" wheels with the ET 46 offset . . . . I also spoke to a couple of tyre fitters and was able to establish that each tyre has a dB rating between 69 and 73 and that there are options for lower dB tyres in both 17" and 18" options. Much to ponder before I shell out my hard earned moola, I want to make sure that I am doing it to make an improvement, not just to "try it out" so to speak. Thanks to you all for your input, advice, guidance and providing me with gold standard information and links - you're all very kind.

You can get a disc brake spreader tool on ebay/amazon. This is a very popular design which is sold under various brand names and also unbranded. They are probably all made in the same factory in China and are available from just over £8 including postage. The tool enables you to push the front brake caliper piston back before removing the old front brake pads. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=disc+brake+spreader+tool&_sacat=0&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=3

You are quite correct, I was multi-tasking and not reading what I wrote. What I meant to say (and didn't) was that they'd been out pretty much from the day it was announced. Which and moneysaving export had it uot and about pretty quickly. I do agree the Ofgem site isn't the clearest, but then they are just stating a cap, so it's up to suppliers to advise the price (which can be lower) not ofgem. It's a hard one for ofgem, but then much of the media don't help by only every quoting an average cap.

I've recently had my cam belt done @ a local independent simply because it was 5 & a bit years . 2.0 Diesel cambelt & kit including aux belt and water pump £462. with just 52K miles on the clock was tempted leave it but decided not worth the risk.

2 days to go

For anyone interested my local independent garage has found the fault. Turns out a rocket has broken on cylinder 3 which has closed one of the valves. This in turn has damaged the camshaft and cam cover. So thankfully not a new engine. Camshaft assembly was £1500 however, but cheaper than anticipated. Local official VW parts company that my garage got the part from said they have sold two others in last 6 months. Not massive numbers but obviously something that has failed before. Sorry rocker not rocket….

At a guess, check "Road sign detection fusion mode" in A5 is set to "Road sign fusion"... Otherwise, you'll need to find out how to add an autoscan and adaption maps from OBDeleven