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Got mine on Friday 😁. It was ordered by the dealer (Not by me). I have just purchased my car from the dealer. So, I had no waiting nightmares. But I have asked the dealer when it was ordered. So, it was order 2022-03-15. It was delivered to the dealer 2022-09-18. Total - 18 months. Style trim, Colour - Lava Blue. Additional options - heated steering wheel, heated windshield, Perseus Anthracite wheels. I will fill the spreadsheet.

Taken 23/09/2022 - nice contrast between the buildings and sky

Graphite grey colour with pulsar aero rims

I found the company by searching my E_mails airbagteam.com Highly highly recommended and I don't give that accolade lightly. You probably already understand but for the benefit of anyone else reading, after an accident with an airbag deployment officially the airbag control module has to be replaced, it will no longer function, however companies like the above can remove the crash data and reinitialise the module which makes it as good as new.

I don’t know the codes, but has that relay been checked?

Hi there, this is not a job of just plugging them in and away you go, even with the correct wiring. you will need odis at the bare minimum. on top of that you need to tell us what car you have, year, spec, if you have the lane assist camera and all of that.

Be very careful if you have the battery connected still when you do this. Although there is a fuse as mentioned above, it's a high rating (150 or 175A) so you'll still get an alarming spark if you short it to anything earthed.

The two stalks connect to the steering column control module. It will convert the output from the stalk's various resistive ladders into CAN-bus messages and ask the BCM (body control module) to activate the lights, wipers etc. There isn't much a multimeter will achieve to diagnose that... You really should get some kind of diagnostic equipment to read out fault codes and check the coding of various modules. It's entirely possible the dealer replaced the steering column control module with either an incorrect version or just haven't coded it properly! Example wiring diagrams for the steering column control unit:

The latest news is an agreement with importers that we will deliver unfinished cars to the countries where we sell them and then complete them on site. This will save us a lot of money, especially transport costs, and the cars will be handed over to our customers faster. This model has proven itself in the past. At the same time, the staff is ready to take on extra shifts at any time to make cars for our customers. More at: Škoda kvůli čipům mění taktiku. Dokončuje auta až u odběratelů - Seznam Zprávy (seznamzpravy.cz)

Likewise Renault.... and Peugeot.... and Citroën..... and Ford....

My VRS has finally arrived, ordered October 21 & picked up yesterday 🙂

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The trick to reading the specs is ignore the pages with glossy photos, then go to the pages marked Optional Equipment. If it has a black circle it is fitted, a white circle is optional (with cost next to it), a dash means can’t have it in the spec you choose https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/775d73bc-eb9d-4a50-911e-863d73b99333 eg Amundsun is £110 option on SEL, and virtual cockpit (digital dashboard) is £480 on SEL, but standard on colour edition and Monte Carlo

Thanks so very much J.R. !

A few pics to see if this info is relevant

TMB thanks! Solved my problem

My first thought was why would take on something that you haven't fully researched! Also it would help to state if your car is Preface lift or facelift model? Here is the a thread which could possibly be of use!

Dropped car to Skoda at 8am today. Got a call back within 1 hour to say they can not cover any warranty work on my car as it's a private hire taxi and the mechanic cancelled the appointment and did not inspect the car. Went back to collect car as soon as i got the phonecall and was advised I need to pay £114 for diagnostic check that was carried out. I told Skoda I wasn't going to pay a penny as they never done any checks as confirmed on the phone and I was advised I'd need to pay full retail price plus the diagnostic fee if I go ahead. Not very happy as firstly they never gave me any warranty repair booklet with the car which would explain what's covered and what isn't.. I had to ask on this forum for that information. In the end I've got my car back and didn't pay a penny. Now stuck with the rattle noise and a windscreen washer fluid leak..

There are a bunch of strip fuses, and some blade fuses in the fuse tray above the battery. The blade fuses hide under a plastic cover. Try those, one by one.

There is not a shortage or cars registered in the UK and sitting 'In trade' awaiting a buyer from the motor trade. Lots of money laying about and vehicles owned by financial institutions. There does seem to be a need for some investigation into manipulation of the market. A sort of collusion to inflate prices of goods. A cabal. Money is lent on a product not worth the value put on them. But then Current Market Value is the term used and anything is valued at what someone is willing to pay. Hence so many unsold as asking prices can be ridiculous. Some paid too much getting that car into their stock. They disagree. https://www.am-online.com/news/used-cars/2022/07/26/car-dealers-lose-11-000-a-month-using-opinions-to-price-used-vehicles

If second hand prices rise much further then some of them will not be far off their original price when new .......... I still think the biggest issue / reason lies with these online retailers with massive stock, although people forever buying cars that they are probably struggling to afford doesn't help.

Guys, I have already found the problem. I did the green cable test (nta16 thanks for the link and the tip of green cable), connected it to the negative and it did indeed turn on the battery light (on the panel). That is, as I had already changed the regulator (new) and still did not work, the problem is definitely the alternator, I will order a new one. If it still doesn't work I'll let you know here 😛 (with the new one) kakak Thanks to Everyone for the Help !

Sounds like the shield in your water pump has jammed in the open position. If they jam in the closed position, the engine overheats quite quickly. I wouldn't have thought there would be a fault code associated with it, because the problem is mechanical. Electrically, the actuator that moves the shield will have received a signal from the computer that tells it to do so, and would be a short or open circuit, so the onboard diagnostics would have no reason to suspect anything was wrong.

This is set by Google and can not be changed - unfortunately..

I had the same problem with the 2014 Octavia RS... a lot of cracking when opening when it was dry and warm outside. It also cracked when driving on bad roads as you are describing. I have solved this by cleaning the sunroof rails and around the frame, then I have used grease in spray. I guess you can use silicone spray too as long it lubricates the moving parts, I have sprayed the rails and mounts of the window, every part that is moving ---> the cracking and annoying noises are gone for me 👌

Skoda seem to not be prepared to even make an effort to get on building a Small or medium EV and have a product many of their traditional customers might want. A passenger EV that the Taxi / Private car drivers / customers could purchase instead of the Octavia used by many around the world should have been a priority. Skoda Enyaq's do not seem to be the vehicle getting bought for that purpose. Then small EV City car / delivery van was something that should have been another one they could have produced for hire companies, fleets etc.

? How many km do you do from a cold start in winter with 18*oC ambient before the Oil gets to an indicated 90*oC? The issue with your car needs addressing whatever they might say. That will most likely replacing of a part. Warm up time when Idling is not something that matters really. It is started and driving and how soon. The Ambient temp etc. you talk of for winter has not much in common with much of the UK. Your cold start warm up time for the coolant with a 'Cold Start' at 18*oC winter ambient temp would be many people in the UK's Summer temperature. More towards 0*oC might be a winter temperature to start off at.

Quick clean after yesterday’s drive. Really impressed with Autoglym trim gel, it brought up the finish beautifully on the rear Coupe strip.

Guide to unclip the roof lining is quite simple. I only unclipped the 4 corners. Just give it a tug and it should pop out. You can then have a look where the clips are and put a small amount of lube on them. Clip them back in and should be fine. May come back a little in warmer weather but do the same and will eventually be fine.

Il n'y avait rien de plus ?

Could have been one of the last 6 speeds? Also wondering about the mileage and whether it was over due a box service. My money is in an accidental S mode. It's easy to push the stick back from D if not familiar with a DSG.

Symptoms of an inner CV joint on its way are usually a vibration or shudder as if a wheel is out of balance but you feel it through the seat rather than the steering wheel. This normally happens under load as described by @fr1nklyn. Symptoms of an outer joint failing are usually noises ranging from clicking to knocking while turning a corner. I have no experience or heard of an outer causing a wobble but that doesn't mean that it won't under certain circumstances. Hope this helps.

Thanks for responses. I guess it’s 4 winters or none then!

Thanks for all the answers. First option is the winner.

I think you're right. Yeah economy won't bug me that much as its not less than 30MPG at the worst case scenario. Noted on the carbonisation - Hopefully not too expensive to fix? Thanks for the comments!

I think the OP would know by now if he had a squirrel in the glovebox!

Spring vibes. Great drive today over the Remutaka hill and back, the car performed mostly well with the odd hesitation. I think that relay has helped and the fuel pump will help more.

Just a phone picture from a twilight walk around Sale Water Park it would have been nicer without the pylons

Just wondered as my Kodiaq has the direct TPMS , thought latest Octavia might have as well.

Everything can be fixed it's just how much you want to spend unfortunately....

Then there is the whole giving way to the vehicle coming down a hill if both sides of the road might have become a single vehicles width. But then people used to very hilly towns roads for years might be inclined to give way to those coming up hill.

A quick google suggests: P2000 - NOx Trap Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 P0237 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too Low U11F5 - Likely DPF related? P0641 - Sensor Reference Voltage "A" Circuit/Open P0651 - Sensor Reference Voltage "B" Circuit/Open P0697 - Sensor Reference Voltage "C" Circuit/Open If I were you, I'd get a local VCDS user to perform a scan. At the very least that will give you a little more information including if the codes are current or historic and when they last occurred. Can you elaborate what the issue was and how you fixed it? Might help someone in future

Ohh there are far bigger ones, climate change, religion, life after death to name three...

If you love your car get a proper diagnosis of any fault codes and issues. Then swerve the Terraclean. Service and maintain the car and if there are DPF or EGR issues have them dealt with. IMO.

Proceeded to the doors today. Started out with the rear right since I've had an annoying rattle coming from that one. Upon removing the door card I discovered there's no way of getting to the outside panel anymore, without removing the window and the whole lift assembly. I applied 2.2mm butyl mats to the most resonant parts of the inner frame. The door card didn't have any sort of deadening material on it, so I applied butyl on the worst sounding surfaces and topped everything off with 15mm CTK WaveFix acoustic foam.

Another small change. Trying to get rid of that chrome. 😅

My mate has a vectra vxr and I really like it.. I wasn't a fan until one nite he had had a drink so he threw me the keys...it put a smile on my face... I don't understand the hate they get. I've had 2 ep3 type r's... the first being a Milano red one.. I bought it from Honda a year old... loved it!!.. drove it everywhere like a nutcase to get in to vtech took every corner on 3 wheels and it never let me down... I then bought a diesel audi a4 avant because I was doing a full tank a day with my job at the time...safe to say when my Job changed I bought another ep3... even then I used to see the octavia vrs and liked them but for some reason never got round to buying one... owning one now is a pleasure.. I don't know what it is but even now when I lock it I do the old lookback just to see it sitting there 😂... It cost me 2500 and I care about it more than any car I've owned.. it definitely gets under your skin!. I'm really looking forward to adding the stage 1 especially with how diffrient you say it feels.

If you order the Skoda factory extended warranty, does this imply they screw it together a bit better?