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Light weight for the win. We get 54mpg average out of our petrol Citigo without trying and that's in a hilly area. I think the word is out that the EV versions are super cheap to run judging by second hand prices - currently a lot more than they were RRP when bought.

IIRC adaptive cruise needs the long range radar, the standard radar for non adaptive cars is short range so cannot be done.

The only oil and gas shortages now and in the next several generations are because of cartels controlling how it is taken from the ground and transported and traded. The food and water and energy shortages are war related and also in the hands of traders and speculators. European governments have decided that Climate change and global warming can be ignored for a year or 3 till they sign out and it is others problem. Tens or hundreds of Thousands killed in wars, and millions die prematurely from pollution and have bad health pre death. Most important is the sight of starving and dying children. The wealthy bother about cars.

I am also facing similar issue the seller sent me actuator 3b1837016bc but I think my old part was 3B2837016r same as okmate's. Everything seems work fine with wrong part as expected but only Bowden cable length is shorter by possibly 1-2 cm not sure why, in okmate case possibly applying to much force may have broken the cable holder because of wrong part.My door was jammed because of excess pull on actuator unlock handle. Lesson learned ebay part compatibility checker cannot be trusted. cheers raky

If they use screw turbines or something else suitable to not harm wildlife and are careful about blocking flow I don’t see how it’s any worse than Hinckley. Besides they’re building anti flood barrages everywhere currently, so some control to deal with surges could be quite useful.

But the vehicle using the energy to turn the wheels might well weigh a lot less than a BEV with an equivalent range. It's swings and roundabouts. More important is that the 0.4 is more than the equivalent 0.2 or less for petrol/diesel. You seem to miss that there are many people I know who travel for business who point blank refuse to buy a car they have to plug in as they can't be doing sitting at a charger for 2 hours + a day. These people are real and most of them would happily buy a hydrogen car as "you can fill up in 5 minutes and be gone". So again, whilst a BEV might be the best option (Subjective) the hydrogen EV would bring many people along, drop the localised air polution and at the very least be a great stepping stone for the stubborn.

Very happy with my MTEC grooved front discs fitted in March - MTEC1807 - black coating so the centre hub doesn’t rust. I paired with Ate Ceramic pads from Autodoc, which were slightly more expensive but literally zero brake dust on my wheels now. Certainly stops well, and relatively straightforward to fit. https://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake-discs/volkswagen/golf-mk7-2012/golf-2-0-r-12-2016

That is very bad news, definitely worth trying a new timing belt, if you have access to a USB camera with a mirror if the valves are really bent you might just be able to see from through the spark plug hole or down the intake tract. It sounds like the axle tramp shook the engine about causing either the belt to jump or a frayed part to catch. In recet years I have known of more cam belt failures caused by auxiliary belt failures than from the belts themselves failing, most owners replace the cam belts religiously, I dont but I regularly inspect it, maybe we should be paying more attention to the more exposed auxiliary drive belt which ironically is both easier to inspect and to change.

Just treated myself to the brake setup from an Audi S3 front and rears. When the parts arrive and get painted youll get photos

Prep for towbar also includes stronger alternator and better cooling.

Yes, if they can get efficiency up to a real 5 mikes per kWh, then the fuel arguments are mute as you’re basically competitive up to £1/kWh against £2/L of petrol. Up to 7 and you’d be winning at £1/kWh vs £1.50/l for petrol. Drop the weight of the car and use a smaller battery for a given range and suddenly the car is about the same price as a well spec’d ICE. 5 miles/kWh = 300 miles on 60kWh battery vs 80-100 currently and you could get 450 miles from today’s batteries. 7 miles/kWh and 300 miles is only a 42kWh battery with huge weight and battery cost savings to boot. On today’s batteries you’d be looking at 550-700 miles on a charge. If they can get the efficiency up the charging worries go to be an occasional not regular thing, battery costs come down, the running costs advantages are back big time and IMHO ice is dead.

I didn't even try and remove them prior to the plusgas. Given the horror stories and that I wasn't in a rush, it didn't seem worth it. Car had ~120k miles and was 6 years old when I did it, plenty of time for them to have gotten stuck

I have the 2ltr 4x4 DSG and over 4 1/2 years I average 45mpg . On long trips I can get mid 50s and mid 30s tootling around town. Figures are corrected as the comp is around 3-4 miles optimistic . I'm happy with it.

Warped discs will judder too, but generally that's more evident with lighter braking. Heavy braking would most likely be ABS if you're not familiar with the feeling?

I'm there with you on the cheaper fix as I've bought products like that out of desperation. I don't know much about the impacts of no egr with dpf in place. Many threads been down that rabbit hole already, I'm not prepared to start that topic again.

Thanks, but they are all on. The mystery continues!

If you are prepared to give it enough force to snap it, it may just come out anyway. If it comes out in 1 piece or a thousand you don't really have many other options. How much do you trust your mechanic? 😂 If you are religous you could say a little prayer for it? If it was me doing it I would try a low powered impact and give it some with that first to try and break any corrosion in the threads loose. It doesn't help that they are a tapered thread usually

You two chaps are EV evangelistis so whatever an ICE evangelist like myself says, you will already have an answer ready to counter my response, even to questions I have not even asked; the only proof will be time. EV fires are rarer by percentage (you had that answer ready when I hadn't even specifically mentioned the subject) but these cars are all virtually brand new, what will they be like when they are 20 years old and bodged like many 20 year old ICE cars are now? BUT it is not specifically the dangers I see as being their failing, there are so many downsides I don't really know where to start but IF manufacturers eventually make the perfect EV with absolutely no downsides that even I could think of (apart from being too quiet) and the charging infrastructure was in place, it still does not answer the question of where the power will come from, we are already on a brown out knife edge and now we find out that our largest "green" power source is a complete con The green energy scandal exposed

Wow, where to begin...... If that is how you feel, I don't think anything posted on any forum can made any impact. But let me set the facts right: - old technology that used to work well does not mean we can ignore modern realisation on its damaging effects - synthetic fuel requires huge amount of electricity and the burn cycle still produces extremely harmful NOx - the distribution and mining of fossil fuel also produces a lot of harmful emissions, this has NEVER been accounted for in any lifetime vehicle studies, only pump to wheel for ICE cars. Compared to electricity production - transmission - charging - wheel AND battery mining + production for EV's - batteries can burn violently if punctured or damaged. But as percentage, EV fires are rarer than ICE car fires.

The synthetic fuels require huge amounts of electricity to produce even now as was the case in the 1940,s when Germany was producing it. Bio fuels are taking lots of land up to produce the plants that could be land producing food. Which is why countries like in Europe are pulling back on bio.

Make sure the car is on a level surface. Access the headlight regulation control unit 55. Select Basic Headlight Setting and run the setting. Then select Acknowledge Basic Setting and run the setting. You might get asked for a security login and the one I used was 20103. It is as simple as that. If you find tge headlights are still a bit low they mat need raising manually. I am going to get mine checked when I get the alignment done to make sure they are spot on.

There is nothing wrong with the ICE, a 150 year old technology that had been perfected but has now evolved into a monosity due to stupid legislation caused by a minority group of moronic shouty mouthy eco nutters. I have no problem with producing electricity without using fossil fuels but that electricity could be used to produce synthetic fuel which could be initially blended with Bio and fossil fuels; this blend could be distributed, stored, dispensed and used in the technology and infrastructure we already have rather than sent into a 1 tonne chemical bomb under the floor via a network we don't yet have. I hope I live long enough to see EV's become the disaster I am convinced they will be. I assume my PC is made China BUT we don't have a choice whereas with cars we do have a choice. China is a pariah state and I do my best to avoid buying anything from there as much as possible.

It absolutely does, it's like saying my wheels are out of balance but surely I can just stick a balance weight on anywhere on the wheel rim! Good for you for having made them sort out the mess they made, I hope that you will be able to stick it to them in other ways. Even with the balance shaft they are bad by comparison to any other engine but without one or worse still with one in the wrong position they would be diabolical

I removed my Superb glovebox a few years back using the Octavia video as a reference. It's very similar as far as I can recall.

A few ways these engines seem to lose coolant. Mines currently at the mechanics for similar symptoms. in no particular order: water pump leaking egr cooler leaking charge air cooler leak blocked matrix causing overspill from expansion tank head issues

The engine, clutch pack and gear box were replaced inside of warranty and have been fine up until this point. As I say it is getting to the point were I've spent a fair bit of cash on it in the last 12 months and justifying spending more when I can can get something new/newer.

Thanks again TMB. 👍

Just bought an Arkana, petrol ultra mild hybrid. Chinese, haa, The Arkana was original Russian and Ukrainian, using Lada and sometime Renault badge. Now built in South Korea by Samsung as Part of the Mitsubishi, Nissan, Samsung, Renault Alliance. Complicate business. Many, many cars have some Chinese bits in them.

24 hours and 50 minutes for two high and two low tides. Bristol Channel Barage could generate 10% of UK needed power. Spring tides up to 46 ft range, only second to Bay of Fundy in Canada. Super impressive area and the wonder of the Severn bore on the river. Wetlands Trust Slimbridge quite opposed to it as they are worried the wetlands would be compromised. Maybe not if managed well I think.

Thanks ords, that's great. Sorry if repeating threads, but I've only access to a mobile at the moment, which does help me to learn my way round these forums and search functions! Thanks again.

So while I’m waiting for the exhaust bits to arrive I decided to put some rivnut fixings in the tailgate so that it’s easy to swap the road number plate for the showroom vRS plates when at shows etc. The road plate was held on with double sided foam strips so no easy way of swapping them over and over. Pretty uneventful, not really photo worthy but I drilled the factory punched square holes out to 9mm then fitted two m6 rivnuts into the bootlid. Carefully measured the hole centres onto the show plate then drilled two 8mm holes for the black plastic m6 screws to go through. I’ll keep yellow screws in the car for the road plate obviously. looks quite smart with the small Detailing World sticker as well.. Speaking of stickers, I’ve put this underneath the bumper purely for the MOT man’s (and other nosey folks) amusement 😂 more soon when the exhaust gets here.

With a front wheel drive car fitted with a diesel engine having stiffer sidewalls can only be a good thing.

They are never going to be in front of you for long unless you are stuck in traffic because they always go for any gap up the road and then will be right up your jacksy and you can not see the front grill. They are an Ultimate Drivers car, an ultimate pillock considering UK speed limits.

What you are feeling is the automatic modulation of braking force by the ABS system feeding back through the brake pedal as it avoids the wheels locking (skidding). Perfectly normal under emergency braking and when experienced then increase pressure on the brake pedal and trust the system. I have only experienced it on an advanced driving course (on purpose) and once on the road where it worked really well and avoided what I thought would be a certain collision.

Ye sounds like ABS, I remember the first time it happened to me, I thought the front wheels were falling off, you really feel it through the brake pedal.

Do you mean feel it under the brake pedal? If yes that's the ABS kicks in during emergency brake.

Hi I did look into that option but I installed a subframe mount insert some time ago and I hated it. It was a red one so the softest one but it was so harsh. Looked at psb option as well. Everything I read online suggested stick with rubber. I paid 11 quid each

Just to be a pain Are you also flushing the ABS pump This doesnt get flushed with a standard flush | You need diagnostic equipment to get the pump to bleed itself I was amazed how dirty the fluid was coming out after doing the correct procedure

It's all the same parts whether it's discs or drums on the back. Really easy job to change, just make sure you have the right socket for the hub nut. Once the nut is off, the hub will most likely come off in your hand. The torque setting according to my manual is 70Nm +30 degrees.

Might be different on the vRS with discs at the back but can't see it being much different.

Whole unit https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003157234648.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.2f021802htqneX

no they come straight out no puller required the whole job takes an hour for both sides its very easy mate and personally for the price of the bearings I would suggest while you have the rear arm down you do both just make sure you have 2 jacks makes the whole process a lot easier

Found under front passenger seat (rhd)! As others have experienced I had to cut a little bit of carpet, which won't be noticeable once the seat it bolted back down. Although I didn't find it too hard to get it free from the car thankfully. Has anyone bought one in the past? If so dis you buy a second hand one from ebay or buy new from somewhere like aliexpress?!

I actually managed to get it sorted with the gear i have... Apparently unplugging the car battery, removing the bolero, waiting half hour, installing new unit and reconnecting battery forces the amp to switch to powering on with the key instead of canbus commands. Weird as hell, but it worked!

So I fixed the issue and I want to share how I did it 😁 I bought new part. Factory installed module V426 was number 5Q0907511A but part available in official distribution currently has new number 5WA907511C (note, that I write about part for Denso HVAC unit). Removing the dashboard is not required to replace V426/V428 module (in LHD vehicles) although the official service manual begins with this step. Access to this part is possible from the bottom - under steering column or as you prefer: above pedals. If you want to do that without removing the dashboard you should remove knee airbag (mounted on 3 torx screw) and next: remove left footwel vent (mounted on only one torx screw). You don't must unplug knee airbag, you just need to unscrew it and rest against on the center tunnel. When you remove this two parts, you get access to problematic servomotor. Be very careful when removing screws from V426, because when they fall, it will be very difficult to locate and remove them. With the screws removed, you remove the module from the climatronic mechanism axis, and then you need to unplug the plug - a small screwdriver may be useful, but there's not much space to work with both hands. In fact there is no space, so you have to work in a truly paralytic position. When you disconnect the plug, the module is ready to be removed. I have one advice for you: before you start unscrewing the module, restore power to the car and turn on the ignition. Next, turn on the ventilation and switch the airflow directions (face, feet, windshield) looking in front of the removed footwell vent, watch if the flaps inside the HVAC unit moves when you click the buttons on the air conditioning panel. In my case, the flaps were dead. Mounting new part - now the true play starts. Step one: connect the plug to new module but not try to mount it yet. Next: turn on ignition and try to choose combination of climatronic switches to set up new module in position which allows to to mounting its on axle of HVAC unit (in other words: you have to set the new motor in the same position as the old, disassembled module was in) When the axle and new part is synchronized, you mount servomotor on the place. Then you screw the motor with two screws: at the bottom and top. Installing the top mounting screw is dramatically difficult. Putting the top mounting screw is so heavy because there is no space at all to grab it with even two fingers. A moment of inattention and the screw drops, and its find is another challenge. When you screwed the motor with the two screws, turn on the ignition and check the flaps again during switching the airflow direction on the air conditioning panel. In my car the flaps came to life. You will also need to perform adaptation and read errors from the HVAC controller. The adaptation can be started on the air conditioning panel - turn on the airflow: to the windshield, to the legs and to the face vents, and then press "AC" + "front vents" buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. When its finish again check errors in HVAC module and clean them. If adaptation was finished correctly errors shouldn't back. During adaptation you can observing via left footwel vent that flaps are working right. At the end you mount again footwell vent and knee airbag and are you going for a test ride to testing that HVAC works right. If you unplugged battery you should also make test ride for few km's, next check and clear faults in all car modules. In authorized Skoda service center in Polad repair of this issue costs about 450 EUR (with dashboard and central tunnel removing). I repaired myself this fault for the price of about 70 EUR 🤭 However a lot of self-denial is required for made it. Good luck 😁 and sorry for my English...

There are a few limits which apply to towing, technical, legal and advisory. Technically the manufacturer will specify a limit for the vehicle and this must never be exceeded. This will be in the handbook, and in this case is 1800 kg for a braked trailer or 750 kg for an unbraked one. This is the maximum weight Skoda rate the vehicle to tow under any circumstances. Legally there are different limits depending on the driving licence you hold. UK licence categories are here and it comes down to what licence you have and when you got it. Before getting into licence particulars, some terminology: DGVM = towing vehicle's Design Gross Vehicle Mass i.e. maximum plated weight for the car. For the Superb Combi CR170 with DSG this is 2157 kg (check the plate on the driver's side B-pillar on your car to be sure, this is what's on mine) This can also be referred to as MAM = Maximum Allowable Mass MTPLM = trailer/caravan's Maximum Technically Permissable Laden Mass i.e. the maximum plated weight of the trailer. You will need to know this for whatever you are towing. Most legal towing limits concern the combination of these two, often known as maximum train weight or combination weight. All legal limits are subject to manufacturer's technical limits: the lower of the two applies. If you don't have a BE licence (i.e. only a B licence), there are two scenarios: whether you passed your test before 1st January 1997 or after. If it's before, you can tow any combination weight up to 8250 kg If it's after, you can only tow up to a combination weight of 3500 kg, meaning you're limited to a trailer MTPLM of 3500 - 2157 = 1343 kg Irrespective of vehicle DGVM, you can also tow a trailer with an MTPLM of 750 kg or less If you do have a BE licence, there are also two scenarios: whether you passed your test before 19th January 2013 or after: If it's before, you can tow any trailer regardless of its MTPLM provided the towing vehicle DGVM is 3500 kg or less (which it should be for category B anyway) If it's after, the trailer MTPLM must be 3500 kg or less For any Irish readers who see this thread, our rules are a bit simpler (and the same comment on legal vs technical limits applies): If you only hold a B-licence, you can only tow up to a combination weight of 3500 kg, meaning you're limited to a trailer MTPLM of 3500 - 2157 = 1343 kg Irrespective of vehicle DGVM, you can also tow a trailer with an MTPLM of 750 kg or less If you hold a BE licence, you can tow any trailer with an MTPLM of 3500 kg or less The final limit, which is not really a limit so much as a rule of thumb is the 85 % rule you've mentioned. As others have commented, this is a guideline for drivers with less towing experience to avoid running into difficulties when towing, especially with high-sided trailers like caravans or horse-boxes. It is based on the vehicle's kerb weight and this is going to vary depending on model and load. The figure on the V5 is the minimum kerb weight, and realistically the car is a good deal heavier (my car clocks in around 1700 kg with a driver and full tank of fuel). Based on the 85 % rule, and the V5 kerb weight, the OP has calculated 1354 kg, which is very close to the post-1997 B licence limit of 1343 kg, so isn't a bad figure here. Something that will help with towing on the Superb is getting OE or equivalent towing electrics (Westphalia is the only one I'm aware of but there may be others). These integrate fully with other vehicle systems and enable some useful features for towing. The most useful on the road is the ESP towing mode which can use the ESP system to detect and help correct sway. The engine also detects when a trailer is detected and changes the mapping slightly to help with the load. Beyond that you get deactivation of the rear parking sensors and alarm activation if the trailer is unplugged while the alarm is set.

Hi. If you need any help with insurance for whatever model you're looking at then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Kharl, you need a Lada Niva 😛

Having had all my undertrays off (yes I know I'm a Mk7 Golf, but its very similar)...If you undo the black screws & remove the lower internal front section of the UK passenger side front wheel arch you will get very good access to the pump & washer bottle...There will be some screws under the front corner edge of the bumper..