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After a long 3 months from the last wash, Gandalf is shiny clean again!!

I doubt it. In some circumstances disabling it might actually be safer - if it glitches and slams on the brakes for no good reason then you might be more likely to get rear-ended. Personally I'm not a fan of such 'safety' features - I like to be in full control (or fairly close to). I think it's important for people to be aware of what they are doing in order to avoid crashing into things rather than relying on computers to make driving decisions for them.

The E-Primacy tyres are allegedly designed for EVs and PHEVS etc. I believe they have a lower rolling resistance (and also less tread depth when new ) than regular summer tyres. I would expect the replacement summer tyres would have different breaking and cornering grip and so I would rather not have different characteristics across the axel. Besides, how difficult should it be to buy a tyre for your car that matches the ones that the manufacturer specified? The OE mark on my correct tyres are S1 which is something that is not on the 'regular' tyres that I have been offered and as tyres are arguably the most important part of your car I don't want to compromise my and everyone else's safety.

I feel another echo coming on...😁

Missed the sunset this evening.........

Small update. I had the wheels redone in silver recently. The original centre caps were looking a bit tired so I ordered some fake M582 versions from China. Unlike the originals they aren't carbon fibre but they look okay from a couple of feet away. The wheels were done locally and were acid dipped, prepped, undercoated and then painted. If you're interested in the process, it's described here - https://trenhamsalloywheels.co.uk/our-process/ I'm really pleased with the results and would recommend Trenhams if anyone is local to the North Yorkshire coast. Please excuse the state of the car as I haven't washed it since the hosepipe ban came in at the end of August.

Not impolite, perhaps just a bit abrupt and lacking normal social interaction. However I think if you had filled out your location as "Norway", people would have realised that English is not your first language and also that the Norwegian culture is a bit different from the UK one. I have known a few Norwegians who, to the UK eye, can seem a bit abrupt at first. Nothing wrong with that, we are all different and yet all the same under the skin!

Well, I’ve just had a very apologetic call from the general manager. Funnily enough, after contacting the site that runs their adverts, they have been able to identify that a mistake had been made in the listing, although they are unable to recreate a printout. Funny that! 🤔 I’ve also told them they are breaking distance selling laws by not providing particulars presale for the customer to retain and rely on post sale….I bought the car unseen, apart from what they put in the ad and told me on the phone. So, I have been offered the option of returning the vehicle, but I do like it, so I have suggested they compensate me up to the spec difference for starters. also learnt that there is no one in the team ( not sure if that’s just sales or service/admin as well) who has been there longer than about 6 months…clearly a history of in-house problems there. I’ve told them I’ll be back in touch when I have worked out what I am missing. I doubt this will result in a new satnav device, so won’t be needing the se card, but thank you for the offer ejstubbs. Feels like a) I’m winning and b) I’m not going gaga as I had indeed remembered correctly what they had advertised. Lastly, I’m just as certain the ad said Full Skoda Service History…yet there’s no record of anything being done other than a first service after exactly two years at 19700 miles in Sept 2017 to 48500 miles in July 2022. I’m imagining I would not be unreasonable in suggesting that that does not comprise a FSH? Thoughts anyone? Thank you for all your assistance and guidance…I’ll stay in touch with the site and will be happy to offer forensically derived advice or consumer rights type of text for other similar matters, so please ask. Disclaimer…I am not a legal, mechanical or consumer rights expert, however I do write decent poetry and am proficient at pouring alcoholic, soft, and hot drinks and preparing hot foodstuffs (as long as they begin with P… “would you like pasty or a pizza, sir?”) at my workplace by beside the River Torridge in North Devon

My build date went ahead as planned 12/09/22 and my car arrived at my dealership a few days ago. I collect on Saturday I’ll update the spreadsheet once I’ve collected . She’s beautiful IMG_8992.MOV

I watched that video and simply don’t recognise those levels of efficiency. I would like to see the actual route and speeds they used on that YouTube test, it has been fixed to show the EVs in a very positive light. Long term average of my Enyaq is 3.5 miles/kWh. A steady A and B road drive it might get 4.0 miles/kWh and the absolute best I’ve seen from it is 4.6 miles/kWh. When I had a tdi Octavia there were people on briskoda claiming to regularly average 70+mpg when I was getting around 50mpg in reality, then I had a 1.4tsi which averaged 40 to 45mpg at best, and I read about people with a VrS getting 50+mpg. Either I’m doing something wrong or I’m very unlucky that every car I get uses a lot of fuel/energy.

Hi again, Karoqies. Can I add a little oddity, that I was told about. Perhaps folks on this forum can help. My karoq failed because of knackered battery. I called out the motor aid services. A top guy came out and sorted everything. He gave me a bit of advice by telling me to switch off the auto engine cut off, as it's a strain on engine, battery, crankshaft and the savings is miniscule...that's the second time, I've heard this tip..???

English is not my first language. so i just tried to explain myself as easy as i could, can’t see what it is about my post that is unpolite.. it’s just a straight forvard simple question..

Jacked it up on one corner to get as much as I could out. Fresh fuel and New filter in Ran for a bit and looks like it's running clear fuel through the filter. Couldn't get every drop out but as much as I could. Ordered spark plugs which should be here tomorrow. Seemingly a place not too far from me does 145/12 tyres for 50 a corner. Should be OK for the driving this will see.

i bite the bullet and had 4x Michelin cross climate tyres fitted best deal i could find was £110 each fitted balanced and disposal of my old tyres. i went for the same size that was on the car when i bought it (225/40/18) the only thing i have noticed is a small increase of road nose but i expected that i have also noticed a better response on the steering the car dose feel a bit more responsive and more shore footed, to be honest there wasn't a hole lot wrong with the original tyres that where fitted i even thought of renewing like for like, i suppose its like some people say you have to pay for better quality and you do have to pay they are not cheap, but you do feel the difference just hope they live up to the hype of being a long wearing tyre.

So my apparently trained Vw mechanic couldn’t find the leak. Ordered an endoscope, removed the intake air temp sensor and had a nosey. Whilst looking inside a few drops of water rolled past the camera, so looks like it’s my charge air cooler leaking! Easy to check with a wee endoscope if they can’t get to the bottom of it.

Nope... this is the price... the glass has the photochromatic gel inside to dim electronically and its even more for a side assist mirror glass. There is a new craze of people stealing mirror glasses now as they are between £300-400! crazy prices and no one makes a suitable aftermarket replacement.

I have reported my post with the user manuals for you also, make sure to get your PDF's before takedown if needed.

Actually just no record on the system of what was done. So assume nothing was. But that could have been a proper mechanic actually doing work, not ticking a sheet and putting on the VW system. Skoda approved Full Main Dealer Service Histories are often a history of not serviced to Manufacturers recommendations, guidelines or schedules. They warranty a car, yet if you bought a car and bought a warranty and had a claim that can be knocked back as not serviced according to recommendations. As often happens.

You want to to flat the paint through to the bare metal on various high spots then go up through the wet n dry grades finishing with fine compound then clear coat over those areas. After waxing it will then look like a vehicle that has been cherished by its elderly owner and polished so often at weekends that he has gone through the paint! A few decades ago that was a sign of a superbly reliable vehicle in tip-top condition. Adding patina! Oh and dont forget the tartan rug over the rear seat!

I think using that equation of what cars cost and using it as the Treasury mileage rate went out the door many many years ago. My ex-colleagues in HMRC would say that the 45p / 25p over 10k miles ha been fixed at its ridiculously low level to try sand force motorist to use public transport rather than use their cars. If one looks at the running costs on a site like fleet news, https://www.fleetnews.co.uk/car-running-costs-calculator, good to see my Arkana comes out at between 41p and 46p a mile and that is quite a good score. https://www.fleetnews.co.uk/car-running-costs-calculator?Years=4&Miles=80000&CarType=suv-and-crossover&Manufacturer=renault&Model=arkana&CO2From=&CO2To=&BIKPriceFrom=&BIKPriceTo=&SortBy=Manufacturer&SortDesc=False&FuelType= Cheapest car going are the Dacias, also from the Renault stable, running the Dual Fuel system, which actually get in at less than 25p per mile but noting else does as a new car. https://www.fleetnews.co.uk/car-running-costs-calculator?Years=4&Miles=80000&CarType=small-car&Manufacturer=renault&Model=&CO2From=&CO2To=&BIKPriceFrom=&BIKPriceTo=&SortBy=PencePerMile&SortDesc=false&FuelType= Wonder how many people cheat on the mileage and as a open question what is the point to point mileage that should be used for Self Assessment and mileage claims from employer ? Odometer, Google, and then add a bit for comfort break etc ???

You must be able to get at the engine code which will tell you if that measure was required. If you can't find it with your code scanner, I'm fairly certain VCDS will be able to tell you the engine code. It's possibly also going to be accessible via a VIN also, but there will be a mark on the engine block also (Although I don't know where) Could be worth calling another dealer and seeing if they can tell you the cars details via the VIN as some good ones are usually helpful.

Yea thats good, if its sat around the thread it has the best chance of getting pulled into the threads and hopefully reduced the chances of it shearing off. You may smell it as the engine warms up though

Drain the Haldex oil and inspect it, then put a magnetic probe tool into the reservoir, if you do not find any significant metallic particles or swarf in either then you are worrying about nothing and the garage is taking you for a pigeon. You can only do the best you can regarding flushing, anything that remains will not get through the gauze filter anyway. Before changing the pump I would connect it to VCDS and look at the commanded and measured Haldex engagement figures, I may have invented the latter, if the pump is running, producing the correct pressure and the clutch pack engagement commanded at 100% but you have no drive to the rear wheels then there will be a problem with the hydraulic actuator. Or someone has removed your propshaft!!!!

A photo of the the radio facia would help i think --- it could be an Amundsen + as only 1 slot!

If you have managed to get 200K out of the original clutch you've done well and it's a sign of how well engineered the standard components are. In this case, having been there with SMF conversions on PD's, you will find the noise unpleasant. As you've said finances are dictating this route currently but as long as you go in with eyes and ears open you'll be fine.

Now sold and off to have a new life as a track day car.

I agree, it’s appalling. But I’m using that as an example of a car which one would possibly presume has been sold in the low ‘00’s, actually being far more “common” than its distant VW cousin. And why on earth would you buy a car which looks like that, with a Bentley badge, but knowing it is actually the same as the car called Cayenne, which is the same car called Q8 or, heaven forbid, Urus? And then over at BMW, there is the X7… or is it a Rolls Royce Cullinan? 🙄

Time for the UK government to reduce the VAT on electrical energy from 5% to something a bit lower, they are taking more and more tax on lecky. At 12p per kWh that is over half a pence on tax on every kWh which means more than a quid a month on a couple of hundred kWh but on a couple of hundred kWh of peak tariff at 44.35p kWh that is over 2p per kWh of VAT or more than £4 a month so more than a £5 a month on lecky alone and probably similar for most on the gas as well hence over £10 a month VAT when it has been less than a £5 just a year ago with the tariff at 5 p per kWh for off peak and less than 20p per kWh for peak rate lecky. Government could drop VAT to 3% from 5% and still be raising more tax than they were a year ago and a 2% drop in energy costs would help the inflation figure too !

Found the info i needed on page 394, of 395 in the workshop manual! 😂 so once i got to see the pictures, it took me 30 seconds to find the sensor. trying the camshaft sensor first, since i had a fault code on that a couple of weeks ago (has not appeared since i deleted the fault code) and the symptoms match up with what i have managed to get from googling a couple of days. But for the last week i have had the faultcode P032200 3-4 times, and that code says there is something wrong with one of those sensors, or the cables.. but lets try the easyet thing first and change some sensors 🤞🏻 Should not take more then 3-4 minutes to change, with the great help from the workshop manual! 😁 so hopefully i can get my hands on one tomorrow morning.

I didn't see anything unpolite about your question either, anyway thanks for the offer for help from the manual and let us know how you get on with your sensor.

Be careful or you'll be told it's your fault...

I like polishing old faded red paintwork, it always comes up so much better but faded from the original, it gives it a hue and a patina that cannot be replicated with new paintwork. That engine started after about 3 cranks and on 12 year old petrol and plugs!

Hi, First message, not even 'hello', nor 'please' neither 'thanks'... and no presentation of your Superb. 😕 Well... That's a good start... But not sure I would take time to explain, if I had the answers... 🤔 Best regards.

Some cracking cars and photos there

Doesn’t the Karoq have that thin cable connected to the battery like Octavia MK3? If yes, unplug that cable and S/s won’t start anymore. Just look at the picture in this post, https://dailydriven.ro/dezactivare-permanenta-start-stop-la-volkswagen-tiguan

The dq200 is made of chocolate the money would be better spent elsewhere like swapping from a dq200 to a dq250 I’m running a dq250 with an LSD in my fabia vrs as I was having the exact same issues as you say just spinning up at the lights etc, are you sure you are running the correct spec tyres on the front not some cheap compound tyres

Yes I think so

It's £1500 cheaper to exercise the proper degree of control over your right hoof!

Outer guard. Yeah I think thinner now tried that 15mm from the front on the rear and still scrapes. I would say 8-10mm required. Will have to look it up tomorrow. The 15mm still ok on front though.

I have recently fitted a nextbase 522gw using the power supply near the rear view mirror. As has previously been outlined on here, I hid any excess wire behind the mirror and it works well. I mounted it to the left of the mirror mount so there is just enough room for me to attach the plug in rear view camera should I want to and it should still work with the sun visor down. Initial impressions are good.

Coming of Citroën, which is known for its plush soft suspension, to octavia vrs, i have to say I'm loving the car. Of course it's stiffer, but that's exactly what I want. I have 0 problems on mine, best car ever. It sounds like this car is not for you, you chose the wrong car... It's not the cars problem. Didn't you test drove the car before buying it?

Sorry but no I can not confirm because it does not. So no need for the water pump to be replaced. Brucie bonus.

Update ....i bit the bullet after everybodies advice and got it mapped turns out the 220 had 230 to begin with so that was good ...been advised to check the wheel balance and possible wheel bearing issue as he said at 100mph its super loud absolute obscene gains...did a few pulls on the way home n wow what a transformation the 60-80 time in fourth especially its sooo much faster now i would highly recommend west yorkshire tuning 👍👍👍

Yes cause I can. I have screenshot the parts I used from Autodoc on my invoice. I purchased the Clubsport rear anti roll bar when they were £92 on offee from Darkside. But even at the higjer price of £132 is still a bargain. With the top mounts you need to add 2 for each, as I thought they came in pairs. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-21-7mm-x-3-6mm-vw-mk7-golf-clubsport-s-rear-anti-roll-bar-upgrade.html

This is the stance and looks spot on to me.

I am on 19s with Goodyear Asy 5 tyres run at manufacturer pressures. I do not have any pictures yet as they can take a week or so to fully settle down. I will get one tomorrow to show how it looks 👍 I planned to fit them myself but ran out of good weather and time, as we have a 3.5yead old daughter and 10 week old son. So pretty much no free time. I also have obdeleven to reset the headlight level but am going to get an alignment done.

@murcGuru Regarding the engine oil and keeping to Spec. Your 2010 1.4 TSI 136 kW engine / car in 2010 quite likely has not a Flexible / Variable Service regime code as that was only from 2011 for many of the Mk2 vRS. So the Oil for Fixed Servicing was and is VW502 00 which is 5w 40 FS. Best used with the vRS's and has saved many an engine that can use VW504 00 / 507 Long Life engine for Fixed or Variable servicing. If you are using Super Unleaded and the additives / detergents that come with that you can well do without more detergents in the long life oil. 5w40 FS to VW502 00 will do the engine good and do it no harm. The Castrol Crap that VW Group recommended certainly has for over 20% of CAVE engines, as did the OE plugs they fitted until 2012, and the software and oil spray jets. If you have a good running 12 year old car then stick with the Spec, and stick with the Oil for Fixed Service Regimes. IMO. & 3.9 / 4.0 litres oil is more like the right quantity not 3.6 litres as VW Group had it.

@Luckypants When I retire, an EV will be a consideration (I'd still prefer hydrogen), but not all of us have a lifestyle that can accommodate a full on EV yet. I'm impressed at 7.5p/kWh @wyx087 Some of my colleagues have gone full EV, but they have also stopped taking work more than 150 miles from home, unless it's a multiple day booking and is somewhere which gives them flexibility to charge at some point. You have to appreciate that days are often 12+hours long and travel to and from digs and to find food, soaks up a fair bit of time too. It was possible to charge up using the mobile generators that we use at work, but then one day, a small queue developed and the bosses said "enough", buy your own electricity

I think it's you who's trying to start the argument Ken!

Trying to get an MOT on a shed is always tricky, especially when you don't have any idea what you're doing.