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As an aside, I'd say it's wise to budget for general wear and tear items, and even some other things, too. As someone who is presently running a 15 (turning 16) year old car, it's wise to have money available for when something breaks big time rather than scrabbling around at the last moment.

Power steering fluid will be tricky. Your car has electromechanical steering, not electro-hydraulic.

I can only remember one post regarding water pump failure on the smaller TSI engines, so given the oldest cars are now 9 years old I don't think it's something to be regarded as a preventative maintenance job.

The problem with your reply is you haven't defined what is low tread. If a tyre is 7mm when new, will it perform the same at 6mm? 5mm? 4mm? 4.3mm? 4.2mm? 4.1mm? etc No matter how gradual the process is, I suspect every trye becomes less efficient as it wears but I also suspect that for the most part, that difference is negligable. However just like brake fluid etc, I suspect wear -v- performance is not linear. I believe there will come a point where a tiny level of wear in wear will result in a larger drop in performance. I for one would love to know where that drop-off lies. So yes, I think people do need to read tests and articles. The legal min tead in the UK is 1.6mm. Not being an expert, I haven't a clue if a 1.7mm tyre will perform the same as a 7mm tyre but even if it did, I strongly suspect that's not true for every model of tyre. If I asked the question to 100 people "At what tyre depth should I change my tyre to maintain it's performance" I suspect I'd get near 100 different answers. And that's because we're all armchair experts. The more indi reviews the better I'd say.

not my message to Skoda but this should answer your question.

Went and got a timing light since I figure I'll need it for this at some point. New air filter put on, old one was rotten Have a big order of stuff for this coming in the next week or so. Seems to be clearing itself out a little bit more. Might have a thermostat stuck open as It takes a while to heat up while idling and the temp goes off the bottom of the gauge once you start driving and air gets through the radiator. The closer to operating temp it gets the better it runs at part throttle.

Part number is of the engine mounting bracket, the wire is an earth termination, your photos do not show what module if any it is connected to. A missing earth is never a good thing, as a temporary measure you could strip some insulation and clamp the exposed conductor under the remains of the ring terminal.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. But how are you measuring this fuel consumption? If we take the 18 miles as being pretty accurate or near enough how is the 1/4 tank use measured? At about 7/gallon you'd probably be able to smell the petrol leaking or coming out of the exhaust (at standstill with engine running and you at end of exhaust). Personally I take no notice of the what the computer tells me is the predicted range as it only relates to whatever measurements were made in the last time frame and set of circumstances which may or may not be replicated and I don't know the level of its accuracy anyway. It's like the times when someone tells you there's plenty of fuel in the car when there isn't.

Generally when the plastic clip snaps the loose cable snarls up in the motor spool.

If you consider yourself an expert on this subject, you can ofcourse ignore the articles and stick to your beliefs. I posted them for the benefit of those who might be open-minded and feel like exploring the subject more.

Have you tried actually reading the warranty instead of relying on phone calls to people who may well not know exactly what it says?

I still do this with the trip meter, with a trip computer in the car. To put how inaccurate this can be over a single journey, I did half a tank (roughly) commuting, then did a trip twice the distance to pick up a visitor from a local ferry port (so same driver, same car and mostly the same roads) and came back with a longer predicted range than I left with.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It sounds like you're just reading off partial fuel gauge readings to see the mpg, don't do that. My wife's previous car, a Vauxhall (GM) product, from a full tank would go over 100 miles before showing about a gallon use, and this was from brand new, then it'd suddenly drop to somewhere near more accurate. Use the fuel gauge as just a 'gauge' and not an 'accurate' and don't let you fuel get too low and I used to when younger and had to push the car or use the spare can in some awkward places. Also don't fully trust what the computers might tell you with regards to mpg again use the info as a guide only. Some of the older folk here will probably remember driving old cars where the fuel gauges were broken and unreliable and using the tripometer to gauge when to fill up and using the rev-counter (on cars that had one) for road speed when the speedos were unreliable or inaccurate - now it would be using your brain to check the cars brains in some areas.

The advice to replace the water pump at the same time as the timing belt is only valid on engines where they are on the same end of the engine - which means it does NOT apply to the 1.0, 1.4 & 1.5 TSI engines.

When I become ruler of the universe this will become punishable by instant death 😒

No idea on your gearbox oil. That was wasted money replacing the water pump on a 1.0 TSI when the timing belt was changed. ? Was that the advice you got, & how much did that job cost you?

You only need to replace discs and pads as required. So only time will tell how often that is. *Service brakes, pre or post winter or both, strip, clean and grease as preventative servicing, if maintaining a car is a hobby and past time then your time spent might be cheaper than buying parts that are not required if preventive maintenance is dine.* Your time is likely cheaper than paying for other peoples time. 1.0TSI Timing belt changes needs the correct gear and more than just ideas. Not a DIY job, unless you are a good DIY'er. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/507324-10-tsi-cam-belt-change http://www.mechanexpert.com/timing-belt-replacement-on-mk7-golf-1-0-tsi PS At some point Ignition coils / coil may need replaced. Not letting spark plugs go too long between being replaced to the point they shorten the life of coils can be an expense saver. Checking and cleaning an air filter can save fuel, so money, and do not replace air filter if a shake and vacuum can extend the life. Same with a Pollen filter, remove it, check it is dry and not smelly, vaccum it, blow it through, clean the area. These things are not expensive to replace, but are free to check & replace only as needed. Mony a mickle maks a muckle over 15 years.

The discussion of good tyres to the back and worn ones to the front stems not from oversteer when cornering but from dynamic weight shift foreward, i.e. the rears becoming lighter, under braking. In adverse / wet and slippery conditions. You will loose control of the rear axle and the car will be in a spin. Nothing to do with over and understeer. This dynamic load shift occurs in every car regardless of the type of drive.

Welcome . It will be the timing belt and tensioners. That is past being due. Coolant can be tested for the strength. Brake fluid for h2o content. The power steering fluid can be left as is. As can the thermostat.

You'll also find that the genuine CV boot clips are massively thicker/stronger than the ones that are supplied by the aftermarket. As changing the boot is quite an involved and messy job i've always fitted genuine for the peace of mind especially knowing how poor the aftermarket stuff is, bugger doing a job twice

The Audi TPI 2058504/1 MC-10171334-0001.pdf Shows the fix is to replace mechatronics unit on gearbox. I am sure the TPI is same as the Skoda one you asked for/asked about.

The fuelling will be much improved if you sort out the thermostat, I doubt that it will need a new one, just some corrosion removing from the spindle or a foreign body removed from the valve orifice. The original part if its serviceable will be better than any aftermarket one.

The diesel version 1.4 has a 3 cylinder and was always a bit lumpy, you need to check the air hose into the manifold connection as these if loose can cause this lumpy tickover, again as suggested a good blast out works wonders for the diesel, sometimes a wynns diesel / turbo cleaner in a full tank of fuel can sort out these problems

Great info, thank you mate. I'll first investigate my current shark fin to see if there is a spare adaptor for dab input. If so that will save me a good few quid. I'll be sure to contact Dynamic Sounds once confirmed! Again, thank you!

It probably just needs an Italian tune up. Take it for a fast A road or motorway run to clear out the exhaust system.

Needed to change a failed Heater Fan on Fabia 2 and looking at the web and forum saw that removing the dash and steering wheel was one of the recommendations, others said no need to remove steering wheel, and two said they had done it without doing either but gave little detail. First two methods are quite correct and probably what dealers/independents charge for Not wanting to remove dash as I usually end up breaking something else along the way I explored the alternative so decided to remove all dash fixings to the left (from a LINE at RHS of Radio). Plan was to then prize the end of dashboard out to hopefully get the Fan out via bottom of glove box Remove oblong shaped surrounding radio, remove Radio 4 screws, unplug cables, 4 more screws and pull off the horseshoe shroud that goes round the radio. 2 Screws behind that fix dash to steel removed. No need to touch air con panel above, no need to remove pollen filter, no need to remove passenger air bag cover or air bag, but switch it off at key switch at LHS just in case Remove top box cubby lid 2 screws. Inside lower cubby hole remove the small round plastic plug and remove another fixing screw I drilled a 12mm hole in this plastic towards top and lhs to gain ¼ inch driver access to top LH Fan screw, see later At LHS of dash remove end cover and small cover at bottom front, remove 2 screws located on lower section of panel facing passenger seat, and 2 screws accessed through aperture once end panel removed It is now possible to pull back the dash carefully, checking you haven’t missed a fixing, and it’s possible to generate a gap off approx. 2 inches in which to place a wooden chock. Sounds risky but it all went back OK on rebuild Now under dash, very awkward and on your back twisting etc., undo the 3 small torx Fan fixing screws which you can access from this positon. Then at the top of fan via the 12mm hole you have drilled access the top LH torx screw and remove. Using ¼ inch driver and universal swivel, taped so as to restrict angular movement remove the Fan top RHS torx screw working through top glove box aperture Back underneath now to unplug one largish electrical connector attached to Fan casing and the main 2 wire connector to Fan Now tug on Fan, it will come loose, and then pull on the lower edge of glovebox panel to gain that bit of extra space and remove the old Fan. It is very tight but it can get through Make a brew The new Fan will come with screw holes that make the original torx screws a rattle fit so no good for refitting etc as they will fall out and you already have poor access. I folding some thread tape, put it in each hole and screwed each of the torx screws in a few turns so they would retained whilst you wrestle the new Fan into position Once Fan in tighten bottom torx screws, then back to top using the drilled hole to align drivers with LH screw and through top glove box for RH screw If you don’t manage to get all Fan screws in I wouldn’t worry as Fan casing structure is fairly rigid and neatly clips into place, plus no great air pressure generated as it’s an open ended system Reckon no more than 2 hours to complete, but you must have a good set of ¼ drives, extensions, torch, etc. but well within a good DIY fixer talent, and not suffering a bad back

Wheels done and ready for collection

+1 on both of those comments.

There's no update for yours, 0156 is the latest for the 01xx series of updates. You cannot load 02xx or 03xx updates on yours.

Thanks Ords Alot of great info in this Thread now. Can dip in and out. Does anyone know what type of oil I should replace with manual transmission fluid with ? Thanks again to all👍

Having suffered the issue on my MKIII Superb I can tell you it is NOT safe. Disappointing that VW/Skoda do not admit to there being a problem with a number of mechatronic units. I forgot to update the thread but they had my car for just over a month waiting on parts and the warranty to fund the repair. But since the mechatronic unit replaced and fluid leak resolved I have done a fair amount of motorway miles without the issue returning. My main gripe is why the original dealer did not go with the fault code provided by AA in the first place. The second dealer said it is because its a generic code and they have to dig deeper when it is in a faulted state. I hope you are all able to have your gear boxes sorted.

So you go backwards into a ditch, wall or what ever rather than sliding straight on into the wall, fence, building or what other as you have no frition, traction, braking or steering as you try steering into a skid. You have no rear control if you lose front control. Fit good tyres all round. All these driving god's out there!

Spot on AnnoyingPentium, I don't wanna be left high and dry without a car. Have to keep a buffer fund. Just wanna try a take as many preventative measure as I can and Hope for the best.🤞🤞 Seemingly oil and coolant are by far the most important

Next Sunday morning I will be looking to see if the 7kW chargers at Tesco are all occupied by EV,s or Hybrids that have been parked up all night and still occupying the chargers in the morning. I will now be charging at Council chargers when around and about home and at 23 pence a kWh rather than 28 pence at Tesco or about this same at home. I take it the local chargers will get busy again as they have not had the same use since the council started charging last November. Come the new year I will not be using council chargers in Perth and Kinross as I do now if there cost is higher than in Angus. Cost here is liable to increase though to the point of being much a muchness. I full appreciate how much free charging at Tesco & CPS chargers has saved me since last November. I have spent only £21.54 using the 50kW Podpoints.

Can't fault the Uniroyal Rainsport 5's, had them in a variety of sizes on a variety of cars, good solid all round performance. My Flying Spur had Kumho tyres all round and I was tempted to swap them but they turned out to be excellent 👌. I have a Saab 9000 and a Honda Civic too, both running Michelin tyres, and both of them have had MOT advisories about sidewall cracking after just a couple of years, apparently many Michelin tyres are now made in China.

No mention of discs and pads being replaced in that 121000km? I am certainly considering keeping my Octavia long term having owned since February 2017 when it had 11 miles on it and now has approaching 65000. Regular servicing with new discs and pads, brake fluid change and cambelt and water pump change. Car still feels like new and feels like it’ll last forever.

@keepfor15 The recommended oil for Fixed or Variable servicing of the engine is 5w 30 FS III (long life oil) That is VW504 00 / 507 00. But you are wanting to run your 1.0 TSI 3 cylinder engine for 15 year. So maybe do fixed service Oil & Filter changes @ 9,400 miles / 372 days or sooner. & do not use LONG LIFE OIL. Use VW 502 00 which is 5w 40 Full Synthetic. Then fingers crossed a longer lived 3 cylinder Euro 6 TSI Since they came in in 2015/16 they have just been on the roads for 7 years, so lets get to 10 years and beyond and see how well they last. http://volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-drivers/servicing/service-plans/service-schedules.html

Canton is definitely good. It's accurate and clear. Sound insulation in the car is also excellent for the class of the car. The only thing it lacks is deep bass, but that's not actually required to enjoy most music genres. After all most people listen to music on bookshelf speakers or smaller, which do not go down low either. Oh and I almost forgot, you can turn up the volume and nothing rattles. I think a lot of people take this for granted. 🤣

Sorry should of said full tank last night

That’s true. I thought I could remove a scratch made with a magnet on our previous fridge, using some polish. But since it has no clear coat, I didn’t remove anything even after 20mn hand polishing. It stayed with its scratch for years. @Colin170CR If you want to make some tests and get experienced, simply go to a car scrapyard, find a bonnet or a door with faded paint and just try. It’ll be much more efficient and time saving for you.

No harm in replacing it come time, @ whatever km / miles those in the actual know suggest or if the gearbox feels like it needs it. I know nothing about manual boxes, but when not in an offroader they should not suffer much because of the environment used in.

I frequently had the random SOS error since the day after delivery in March 2021 (plus Travel Assist and a whole series of other spurious errors with the assist systems), but those have all disappeared with a software update at the dealer last month. Interestingly the errors were almost all happening only when I was driving in the UK (I've probably done around 30% of my mileage abroad) and quite often at around the same geographical location, so I wonder if it's possibly connected in some way with the UK mobile network connection protocols being different to those on the continent. The only two times it happened outside of the UK were within a few miles of the German-Dutch border at two different locations.

/me makes note that we are only allowed to reply to comments directed at us despite it being a public forum.

I just can’t leave things alone. The supplied exhaust clamps were ok, just not quite ok enough so I have stripped them apart, acid bathed the plating off them and have zinc plated and yellow passivated them myself. The 3” V-band clamp between the Downpipe and the mid section broke while I was undoing it, otherwise that would’ve been done as well. The sections of the exhaust are being prepped and coated in POR-15 Ultra hight temp Manifold Grey colour which should keep it tidy under there.

I don't get the spend lots on car audio movement. Sorry to say, but I am not a fan of cars on the road providing travelling noise polution. I much prefer those who keep their audio to themselves. Personally I don't see much point in spending 1000s on audio in a car which will always be a compromised envirnonment for quality sound. I know some seek volume above everything else. They will perhaps enjoy sound in middle to later life throgh hearing aids. Some very good digitally tunable ones ont there now. In terms of sound in a car, unless high end sound and noise cancellation has been built in from the start as with very high end motors. The aim of which is not normally sound but its elimination. The result may be better than stock but will always disapoint if purity and perfection is requied. We all have Personal choice and everyone is different but expensive audio in an average average car is not how i'd spend my money but I fully respect you choice to do so if that is your thing. Enjoy your modifications. its intersting to see what others do. 👍

5Q0 199 262 BF is intended for Kodiaq with 7spd DSG on the Petrol 1.5L engines. Superseeds to 5WA199262D 3Q0 199 262 E is intended for Kodiaq with 7spd DSG on the Diesel 2.0L engines, Superseeds to 5WA199262Q EDIT: 5Q0199262DF which is in the picture NOT BF doesnt actually exist in ETKA? Which means the factory have fitted a factory only part - which is perfectly fine. ETKA is only there for replacement parts. What they have fitted is most likely fine. And also the brown staining you are talking of is just where the rubber is bonded to the metal

One can always improve oneself… 😉

It certainly is a word and very useful for these times we're living through, I anglicise the spelling with an s instead of a z.

I've not been back to a dealer since I bought the car in 2017, nor contacted any of them online either (as in my experience, very few of them have any interest in the supply of non-functional cosmetic-only parts 😕). That is a good idea re: contacting breakers on eBay 👍 but I was rather hoping for an easier road like "buying from X online" if I'm honest. I will investigate that route in the meantime though, thanks.

Thanks to @JR RS I got the right item Ali Express for the rear tail light LED indicators. Didn't realise it was so easy to fix, it was less than 10minutes. Will take video later on to show just how bright and better it looks compared to stock bulb. No error codes, no hyper flash. Just plug and play. happy with the purchase.