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Battery replaced this afternoon. No problems just a bit fiddly getting the cover & the battery clamp back in place. At the first start after changing the battery, engine started fine (battery must be mostly charged) but there were 3 warning messages on the display & flashing in the cluster: - ACC Error - ESP Error - Tyre Pressure Monitoring Error After driving 500m the last 2 errors disappeared on their own leaving only the ACC error. I drove about 3km & stopped to collect the kids. At the next start, there were no errors & the engine started without any warnings on the display. Just before reaching home (when the cabin temperature had reached the setpoint) StopStart was enabled & the engine stopped while waiting at traffic lights... Previously there was always a message in the StopStart overview saying "High Power Consumption" which I guess must have been the alternator trying to charge the old battery. So everything seems to be working fine without any "learning/programming" at the moment. I will report back if I see any differences/problems over the next few days. I've got a 120km round trip tonight. @Giff If you didnt already order your battery I can recommend Galaxus or SwissBatt.ch (ordered at Galaxus & delivery by SwissBatt 2 days later).

Cold last night 🥶 Lovely (? full) Moon (with Mars in close attendance).........

From Northumberland to London, 295 miles, me and the other half plus a bootful of luggage, max speed 70 (adaptive cruise), average speed 57, 49.1 mpg. Superbly comfortable and quiet, Apple CarPlay navigation was faultless and even alerted me to police speed vans on motorway bridges, effortless with the 1.5’s power and the DSG. What a great car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Could it be the remote keyfob battery needs changing? Check your Owner's Manual and see if the remote needs synchronising after changing the battery as it does on the Mk3 where there is a procedure to follow to do this almost left leg in left leg out, have the door handle pulled and held, putting the key in the right way round, turning the key the right way, have the alarm go of, stand on one leg and point north, put your left leg in, left leg out . . . refer to Owner's Manual for exact details. Perhaps with a 2011 car it's a bit easier to change a remote battery successfully. Of course just because a car (12v) battery is only a few months old doesn't mean it can't be depleted as it's just a store, like a bank account some people can empty a battery a lot quicker than others. 🙂 Didn't want to disappoint my fans. 😆

@Kenaiposted this a while back, it gives some ideas of dates for the initial 245 model that doesn't have the GPF:

This is clearly inaccurate, albeit through ambiguity, and I'm surprised I'm the only person to point this out. While it's true that the majority of older PETROL cars are ULEZ compliant, because they only have to meet Euro 4 emission standards, diesel cars have to meet Euro 6 emission standards. The majority of diesel cars on the road were not ULEZ compliant when ULEZ in London was introduced, which is why taxis were exempted from the charge.(Until 2025, afaik.) I respectfully disagree. However it has been made clear to me by the powers that be, that Briskoda is not a place for me to explain why I disagree. So unfortunately I cannot do more than disagree. Hopefully I am actually allowed to disagree, though that remains to be seen.

You really need a torque limited remap, 456 NM is too much for the standard unit, either start dropping to fifth when you hoof it, remap it or fit a stronger clutch.

I'm another long time entusiastic user of winter tyres. They do work (for me) and give great confidence in slush and snow. I swapped over our Polo 10 days ago, from 17" OEM to Continentals. Using pukka VW Polo 16" silver alloys. Today I persuaded my older lad to lend a hand for the back breaking part to give my back a rest when swapping over my Kodiaq wheels. Again using pukka 17" Skoda black alloys in place of the OEM 19" wheels. I had the car and wheels all laid out ready. All 20 bolts slackened off with breaker bar. All 4 locking bolts removed. Trolley jack and impact gun on standby. It took a matter of minutes to swap the wheels. (though a few more minutes for me to wash the removed wheels) As mentioned above, a second set of wheels and tyres shares out the burning of rubber and leads to an opportunity each year to shuffle the tyres as you wish. However - in 2023 I shall consider the use of 4 Seasons tyres on one or both of the On-Order cars that will replace the current pair. Why? The wheel changing exercise is becoming a bit more demanding on my aching bones and though I have room to store spare sets, I would appreciate getting some space back in my garage. And, with annual mileage less than it was 2 or 3 years ago, the rubber sharing numbers game is becoming less important to me.

Enjoying a section of the SWC path in glorious weather just a couple of short months back. Looking along Perran Sands towards Perranporth.

I was doubtful too, but having got some 3 years ago, it’s a very big yes, and am a convert. They actually deal with cold rain lot better, in my experience in wet below about +10c. The summer tyres would get skittish in field run off, autumn puddles etc, but the winters drive like road is dry. Winter tyres are also more than happy if get a warmer day of day +15c. On the 2 occasions we had snow could drive around happily including going up and down hills past others abandoning cars and 4x4s. On a winding B road with 50mph limit and about 50-80mm of new snow did shock myself when I glanced at speedo and found I was doing 45mph, the tyres were that good, like driving on dry road, and soft snow had made it silent. I have them on my Arona (which under the bodywork is very similar to a Kamiq), so can give very good feedback from experience. April-October I use the 215/45 R18 wheels with Pirelli P7 tyres that car came with, November-April using 205/60 R16 on Borbet Y rims with Goodyear ultragrip 9+ tyres. (The rims fit directly with original bolts, no adaptors). There are some other advantages, when the wheels are swapped, they get switched around so my front and back tyres have same tread depth and no worn shoulders, car has done 43,000 miles, still got 5mm tread on P7s and over 6mm on ultragrip, so will probably not need any more tyres until over 75k miles, so cheaper than buying 2 tyres every 25-30k miles. I change them myself, takes about 40 minutes including getting jack and tyres out (first time I used the emergency jack), but now have a basic trolley jack from tool station, which I place on an off cut of old kitchen worktop as my drive is block paving (also means don’t need the more expensive high lift jack).

I think that they do! I was sceptical until I’d used winter tyres in snow but I want them every winter now! Thanks for all the comments and ideas. I need to source some steel rims that will fit my Kamiq and get my tyres transferred to them.

Leeds skyline

Ah thank you for clarifying that.

yeah MY16 have 312mm front discs and the ones before did come with the 340mm. the standard cars have 272mm fronts, and that's what the 16 inch spare is for

That's interesting. it's not surprising the EV registrations are lagging I suppose. I did look at that option but just couldn't see how the finances added up, not to mention the grief of recharging the things during a long journey....

Well after a few days of owning the Karoq, I realised it was not the right car for me, and have now returned it to the Dealers and got my Yeti back! Its a nice car, but too many small things added up to make it the wrong choice. The biggest issue was the seats which were far too firm and uncomfortable. I also found the throttle pedal too high, my foot slipped off the bottom of it several times and re-positioning my foot further up it, quickly made my ankle ache. I got used to the DSG box, but still didn't like it, much prefer manual gearbox. The bigger size was also a problem - although I'd compared the sizes on paper many times it was just too tight a fit in the garage, very hard to get out of (don't have a driveway, and very little chance of on street parking, and everything I've ever had before has fitted in the garage without a problem). The issue I'd mentioned above with the media forgetting where it had got to every time it was turned off was also an annoyance, and despite many people telling me the LED headlights were awesome, I thought they were just OK, and no better than the Xenon's on the Yeti. The dark headlining also made it seem very gloomy inside even with the sunroof cover opened up, I'd never really appreciated the light headlining in the Yeti before now! All in all after a few days driving it, I kept finding myself wishing I was still in the Yeti, and wasn't excited by it like you should be with a new car. Full marks to Vindis in Cambridge for sorting out the return of the vehicle and being understanding. Driving back home in the Yeti I instantly felt 'just right' again! Why oh why did they stop making the Yeti - it felt like 5 years of progress was all about electronic gimicks and not the actual driving experience - its a car and I want to enjoy the driving experience, not have a load of electronics think they know best and keep naging me - it even told me to shut the window to save fuel - thankfully soon found how to turn the Eco tips off, but that sort of thing really isn't neccessary in a car at all, and if I want to be 'online' I've got a computer at home for that! I'm sure there are plenty of people who like their Karoq's but sorry, not the car for me. Yeti is much nicer (and comfier) to drive. Back in the same boat as many other Yeti owners with looking for something suitable to eventually replace it.

Yeah, I've also got a 2.0 TDI DSG, and in the 3k miles I've done, no problems (touch wood), but one goes down rabbit holes with new toys, and that's how I've ended up at looking into getting the fix reversed. If my car's original file can't be found, then I'll have no choice but to keep things as they are, and hope none of the alleged fix problems manifest. Currently getting a not terrible 42-47mpg, so it's not even a fuel consumption concern for me. ****ty little smart car I had was at best giving me 50mpg, so not the end of the world.

Glad it worked. I also replaced it successfully yesterday. Saw the ACC error but then all was fine. Didn't drive though, only let the engine on for a few minutes.

More likely Fleet Average Co2 emission First Registration by the end of the year. Or last 1/4 or 6:month registrations, and not about the money. They need the lower emission cars first registered of the high emission ones sit un-registered on the UK in the VW Groups brands. Not enough of the Partners are First Registering EV,s

Best of luck in finding a tuner with that file you want, at least you know that someone somewhere probably done a read on the 6356 file.

Greets. I've taken the plunge and purchased a "cage"--- at least for a winter. The 12.L Hatchback reminds me of my first car - an 80s era NIssan Sentra. So I feel quite comfortable. But... the prior owner didn't know what 'maintenance' means, so I'm here to get tips on looking after it properly. Thanks to the admins for maintaining such a well-run BBS.

Oops sorry! Yes that's what I meant 🤣🤦‍♂️

I can try and look for you if you can get a scan of the engine, issue is that some ECU numbers stayed the same, but a fair few swapped for the NOx update that doesn't help.

The disagreement isn't political, the silencing of dissent is most certainly political. The science was settled as to what defines a man and a woman until very recently. Now the "science" has been changed, and any dissent from the new "science" is silenced.

Anyone with a few quid and Google can obtain the tools and use-knowledge to 'pick' open a lock far faster than with a hammer and screwdriver, which results in the non-destructive theft of a vehicle and so yields a higher fenced price... I say 'pick' as it's often not the traditional technique of torque wrenches and rakes or anything, but still lock manipulation or even bypassing without braking anything. It's just unfortunate that only professional thieves bother with such things. As for attacking.... I merely advise leaving no witnesses. That includes the ability of the thief to offer testimony.

I can send you a link to 0253 via PM in a moment.

If the price of used Electric Vehicles are dropping then good if you can get what you want for less than they were being advertised for or you had to pay just recently. 'If', being the important bit. Cost, prices, what you pay is money. 'Value' is what they are worth to you, what you can get in cash money maybe, or have to pay as far as i am concerned. Trade in and 'Cost to change', finance and leasing is not so much about 'Value' it is about people making money if that is how they earn their living selling / trading in vehicles.

Ah, a petrol, I see that now I'm on a computer and can see the OP's signature. In which case there are a few more emission types tested at MOT. But still plenty of emissions-related equipment that can go faulty, as well as other engine faults that might put on that same light (which is the EML as far as MOT is concerned) without necessarily having major impact on the tailpipe emissions. Needs scanning to identify why the light is currently on.

That actually looks really interesting, and a very affordable option. Thank you!

Just to dot the i's and cross the t's - this is the light that I am talking about. according to the owner's handbook it is the Emission Control System light.

Yes.. turned out I have the unit without DAB after all. So only way is to swap it. But I use CarPlay so I use digital radio high res now. That sounds perfect.

I'm fairly certain to remove the trim around door/carpet it goes like this... Door open, you will need to peel back the door seal from dash to seat. On side of dash which is normally hidden by door, the large central peice will unclip with a screwdriver or bodywork pry tool. This uncovers the top of the larger trim peice that runs from the side of the pedals under the cash all the way to the rear of the door/carpet junction. This large price is also pull off, I don't recall any screws, but do check. Refit is reverse. It's a long time since I did it to fit football lights, so maybe have a quick check of that thread to see if there are better instructions. Good luck

I may as well show off the Compaq that caused this thread to exist. It's a 2003 Compaq Evo N610c, I've topped the RAM out at 1GB and its running with a 30GB hard disk for now. This is my legacy software machine mostly, and a practical workspace that feels a lot nicer to use for word processing and web development. Plus, it has VCDS-Lite on it, but I've yet to use it with the car.

What about something like? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185683104285

5Q0411105GM front coil spring PR-L07 1 paint mark Blue 1 paint mark Grey https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/4/411/411000 The Kilen spring catalogue also shows 5Q0411105GM front and 3Q0511115M rear for the Superb MK3 Estate 280HP 4x4. https://www.kilensprings.com/springs-catalouges/onlinecatalogue.asp

My Dezent wheels came with conical bolts so I use them. When I switch to my summer wheels, i.e. the ones that the car came with, I'm use the originally provided bolts. Don't see an issue with that...

Hello MJT Gaz

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. R_Blue, I hope you realise that I was never suggesting scream up the 10% incline at 5,000rpm in any gear let alone 5th. Again I have no idea about Thefeliciahacker's maths but you give a real life example that proves his conclusion. Generally you need to carry as much momentum, speed, as possible, sensible and appropriate before the incline starts, as with bends and turns you prepare before to take the event as best as possible, sensible and appropriate. You may be in 4th gear already but what ever gear you need to change down when the engine slows down a bit. It depends on the incline on the gears that are changed, on a incline that is a regular steepness over a sustained length then you may need more gear changes or if there a sudden steepness you might need to drop two gears missing the intermediate gear, say 4th to 2nd or 5th to 3rd. The trick is to change gear before the engine steep drops too much, to anticipate the need. The gearbox is in the car to be used by the driver. Less powerful or (over) heavy or loaded cars will need more input in these situations than more powerful or lighter or less loaded cars. With regard your opening post the truck driver shouldn't be up your tailpipe and flashing his lights, a camera in the rear window would probably dissuade him but perhaps you should have dropped to 4th earlier or also dropped to 3rd but I do not know the road incline or your gear ratios and speeds. Find your actual gear ratios and I am sure Thefeliciahacker could use his maths skills and knowledge to give you some figures for your model as new (claimed figures). How long in distance was this 10% incline?

That's certainly not been the case for me... I've had sufficient build up of fluff in the USB-c port of my Pixel 5 that AA became unreliable. It once got so bad it wouldn't charge... I had to get a plastic ziptie, trim it to a point and tease the compressed fluff out of the USB-c port 😆 No need for a Samsung branded cable, any decent quality cable should be fine. Personally, I'm a fan of Anker cables as they seem to work well for me.

I find it impossible to pin down AA issues and whether disconnection faults lie with the AA software, the mobile hardware/software, or the infotainment hardware/software. I only ever use the original Samsung cable if I wish to plug in, and it works 99% of the time. I do get the odd disconnect still though. Advice online about cleaning usb sockets or plugs os absolute tosh, utter utter tosh. IT connections will continue to operate in even the most dire circumstances, it isn't fluff causing these problems. Where I always face issues is using wireless AA. It connects automatically, so no issues with signal when entering the car, but some days I can drive 2hrs and not disconnect from wireless even once, other days it will disconnect two minutes after puling away. I have always kept my mobile in the armrest holder thing (in the middle behind the gearbox). This weekend I tried putting it in the sliding compartment in front of the gearstick, and the wireless connection worked without fault. I do need to repeat this many times before I can say that it is a fix for wireless use however. But if it is a fix, does that mean that the infotainment's bluetooth and wifi reach is so weak that it will keep losing wireless connection if the phone is in the central armrest? Either that or the armrest is lined with lead?! It isn't just wireless though, as I say I have lost connection via a perfectly functioning Samsung USB as well. Trust me, the cable is 100% genuine and 100% works. I have been through all the nonsense with Samsung and also AA support and done everything they have suggested, none of it makes any difference. But is it the phone, AA, the car? Who knows.

Don't drive the car like that, use the gearbox and rev it through some more or you'll eat the clutch and break the gearbox!

Another thing that would help the energy crisis and prevent power cuts (and possible issues for EV users?) would be if the plethora of external Christmas lights were bloody well turned off! I love houses needlessly over decorated with Christmas lights and plastic chintz, but this year isn't the year for it and I have never seen as many over decorated houses in my life. Astonishing numbers and they are burning through juice from afternoon until midnight and many stay on right though the night too. Ridiculous. Even though many are LED lights, they still all add up. Bah Humbug! Rant over Disclaimer: I am referring to houses that look like they have been decorated by the Griswolds in the above rant

I read the whole article several times, like many others that I have also read on the subject I did not understand a single word 🤣 Please don't try to explain it to me, I'm a lost cause and from the little that I do know or understand on the subject I really don't want to understand any more Suffice to say that when I first read of the amount and cost of the electricity being used for this so called "mining" it sounded absurd and obscene to me, in the current climate all the more so.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thefeliciahacker, I have no idea about the maths but the thread has a real life example of the proof of your conclusion. 😄

If there are brake wear indicators there're only on front brakes. Indeed, I fear that not all Superb Mk3 are fitted with. But, for front brakes "the wear limit is reached at a pad thickness of 7 mm, including backing plate (2 mm without backing plate)." For rear brakes "the wear limit is reached at a pad thickness of 7.6 mm, including backing plate (2 mm without backing plate)." Information in italics taken from official Workshop maintenance manual (§ 5.1, p124). To be downloaded for free on cardiagn.com.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've had small and larger engined British cars that are like bricks the gearing and power are soon eat up, didn't help with power-to-weight when I sat in the car. 😆

Perfectly normal for the Terminal 30 battery voltage to be 11.4 volts if the ignition is switched on for the connection of a diagnostic device.

With a good battery, charged to approx. 75/80% of full charge, stop-start should become available immediately. NB. not all new batteries will arrive fully charged.

This sort of nasty attitude is why I went away from this forum until the other Skoda one shut down, you are playing at semantics over the wording. In the trade it is well understood what the light means and it's wording varies from one manufacturer to the other so the government's approach is trying to be universal. VW have two separate warnings that constitute an MOT failure one for petrol and one for Diesel

Bought this Blue Bullet in August 2022 with 32.000 km...... Denmark.