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She had my word, I'll have gotten detail cleaning for her car.

Vrs Iv,love the colour.

As @toot says, you need to get an accurate level reading first - this can only be done when car is on level ground. Consequences of significant under or overfilling oil are equally bad for the engine. I would suggest adding no more than 1/4 litre until you can get the car to somewhere the level can properly checked.

The engine oil change is a total of 4.3 litres so not likely you will need a full litre for the top up. Here is a better image of the dipstick ranges than the online manual. I would say if you are halfway through the B area, I would not top up myself. Then check after a month (earlier if you have concerns) in the same spot, leave the engine 3 minutes before you check to allow it to drain down.

24, 26-30 inc, 32, 38, 39, 41, 44, 46, 48 and 49 are all listed as terminal 30 (permanent live).

I only care what she thinks.

Please only use English on Briskoda. 👍

I have a 2018 280 Sportline combi. It sits at 2300rpm ish in 6th at 70 and I don't have an issue with noise. The later 7 speed in the 272/new280 with GPF would probably be quieter and more economical at cruise, but if you are buying a 280 for economy you are doing it wrong already 🙂 Mine is from before the sportline/sportline plus models emerged so it already had a pretty good spec including the bigger screen. I was lucky enough to buy mine new so I could add a lot of bits to it like 4 heated seats, heated screen, reversing camera, towbar, traffic sign camera etc. I specifically avoided the L&K partly because I was less keen on the looks and partly because I expressely didn't want a sunroof as every one I have ever owned has leaked in the end and I plan on keeping the car for 10 years plus. mine has flaps but I'll be buggered if I can tell they are working or not! the only pops and farts in the car are comming from me after a curry!

Packs of 4 Damp Traps are £3 in Asda. Put 1 in the boot and 1 or 2 in the car.

The electric fuel pump normally primes for a period when unlocking and opening drivers door on petrols. Lost continuity of this thread, as don't think they do that routine on diesels. And yours is a 1.6 tdi.

Having been piggy-backing on an Antipodean thread about a 1964 Skoda Octavia until now, I thought it only fair that I should start my own, and so I'll summarise what's happened with the car so far: I acquired the car in December 2020, from a guy in Kent, in whose family it had been since it was new. I bought it "sight unseen" and, while appreciating the risks this might involve, I had long conversations with the owner and felt comfortable with things, not least because the cars are so rare I'd be lucky to ever see another one! The car was delivered by transporter to a lock-up I'd rented in Whetstone, north London, exclusively for storing the car and I quickly realised what a great car I had! The boot was crammed with parts, the engine turned over happily and the bodywork looked pretty good. In addition, the previous owner handed me an ENORMOUS file, including the original bill of sale, numerous M.O.T.s and associated documents-brilliant! The boot contained the car's original number-plates, although the car sported a newer registration. The previous owner had already explained that the car had "slid off the radar" of the D.V.L.A. & so had received a new number. Fortunately I managed to re-register the car with its original number, with the assistance of the the Skoda Owners Club, and sort out another anomaly in the car's details at the same time-result! The entire process took less than a fortnight and, as this was over the Christmas and New Year festivities, I was most impressed with the speed of the service! All the engine needed was a battery & new plugs and I had it running in no time, albeit from a 5 litre can. Later I changed the fuel pump, to assist the fuel delivery, but there was (and still is!) a problem with the fuel line, but that's for another day! The car had no brakes at all, a fact of which I was aware, so progress up and down the road adjacent to the lock-up was, of necessity, limited. The intervention of more stringent Covid restrictions meant very little could be done for several months, and when I did have a chance to work on the car again, the starter motor had failed! To describe the removal of the starter motor from a Skoda Octavia as "difficult" would be an understatement of a magnitude unimaginable! Oddly, there's a trailer for a new series of "Bangers and Cash Restorations" on T.V. at the moment, in which a restoration mechanic says that it's possible to spend 4 hours just undoing one nut........I know how he feels! The starter is held in by two 17mm nuts, one of which it's just possible to get at, with the aid of extreme dexterity. The other one-forget it! The workshop manual says 2 specific spanners are needed and lists the part numbers......some hope! No-one had them, or had even heard of them. But this morning, I "bit the bullet" and e-v-e-n-t-u-a-l-l-y I removed it! I suspect the right-hand drive cars had several design problems, not least being the removal of said starter motor. I removed the gearbox link from the steering column, the metal heater pipe linking the front lower hose to the heater matrix, the vacuum pipe from the carburettor to the distributor and this allowed me to get a 17mm spanner onto the inner nut, between the engine block and the starter motor. I "cracked" it and, once cracked, the 17mm socket slowly shifted it & the starter came free..... Removing it from the engine bay meant unscrewing the 4 nuts holding the down pipe to the exhaust manifold, and, once shifted, I extracted the starter motor. By now it was 3pm on a sunny Saturday, so I adjourned to a "local hostelry" for several "cold ones". On Monday I'll take the starter to Unit Exchange in Borehamwood, for a refurbish.

This is my 1999 Felicia Pacific 1.3 MPI that I'm going to hopefully fit a 1.8t 20v Bam in. Modifications I've already done include 15" vauxhall cavalier wheels. Lowering springs Seat Leon cupra front splitter Two rear wings fitted and painted along with both sides of the car because the arches were rusty. And a couple of little bits and bobs along the way. I really love driving this car but I want it to be a complete animal so it's getting 1.8 20v turbo and some handling and braking mods to go with it. I'll be posting as soon as I get the axle back from powder coating.

OEM rubber mats are really long lasting. Mines are roughly 5 years / 86000km old, and they're still in good conditions, especially driver's one, which is still way form being worn out : No hole at all... Guys, just a tip, remove your drag queen shoes with 4" stiletto heels before you drive... 😂

@sneal Yes it can take time for many DISS reports to be sent in, before they scratch heads a realise there is a pattern. Big, slow and cumbersome springs to mind... 🤔

That’s fault mine had, along with the speedo being unable to display kph. Left it at the dealers in April ‘21. Got it back, fixed in September ‘21! Has it really taken another year for this notice to be issued?

It is worth replacing the vacuum hoses and pcv valve if you haven't done all of them. Sometimes the splits can be very hard to spot unless you take them off and give them a good flex (had it on my PD octy once). and I assume you've used a decent fuel cleaner like Archoil to make sure its not gummed injectors?

Austin 7 wins a gold star - it was broken wires in the tailgate loom - sorted by my garage

I have recently bought a 272 L&K hatch. As a Q car, the spec beats the SportLine IMO. I love the interior and the toys. 4x heated, 2x cooled, heated screen, Canton, etc etc. Very happy so far. Planning adding a Stage 1 remap in the next few weeks, so will be at about 340-350bhp. Won’t change anything else on the car. So, it will look like a taxi and go like a Golf R. Happy hunting!

So it definitely can work which is good news so it must be the phone somehow or so it seems. I have the same model as @Andacami so its not that and same Android security patch level. No custom security software and phone was completely reset. Now I know it can work I am even more annoyed I will have a read through the links provided thanks all. No user settings other than my profile setup and the whole infotainment has been reset blanking any entries out anyway 😞 as i just get "Can't Connect" shown on phone I dont think there is anything on the car that is the issue. Really appreciate all the good tips and advice!!!!

Checking with the oil hot when at a filling station is usually good for getting a flat area, near where the tyre inflation device usually. Actually Fixed Oil Services could be VW502 00 with a 1.5 TSI ACT. The Recommended oil for your engine is VW508 00 / 509 00 for Fixed or Variable. 0w 20 FS IV But you will do no harm with the VW 504 00 / 507 00 you are using for Fixed or Variable. 0w 30 FS III or 5w 30 FS III

Okies. I'll nip back and get it tomorrow There's a load of old Sega megadives / Master Systems and some original SNES and Playstations there as well. Bit pricey, mind

150 hp 1.5 petrol (ACT, so 504 00) on fixed servicing, Oil changed last June. Depending on where I park it outside the house the oil is near the top or the bottom of the hatched area on the dipstick. I've put half a litre in and I'll probably end up putting the other half in when I can check it on the flat,at work tomorrow

@AnnoyingPentium any use? Seen in a 2nd hand shop here. It's brand new sealed in box. It's 10 euro. I can post when in UK (March/ April) after the last **** up with the brochures. Cockfosters Cockburns Cockermouth

Hi Tell, will be a few days before I can run it, doesn't appear to be MAC compatible and so will have to dig out WIN laptop when I've got a few hours spare 🙄

@tata_na_kvadrat insta 👋

I like your dual speed fan controller circuit. Thanks for sharing. I agree with others about the initial placement of the relay group though. That was too low. New place is better. You can always use 5 pin relays instead of four pin relays too. Like this one: These are very cheap and very common. Also, instead of searching for a special relay box, you can use a common electronic project box. They are dirt cheap and easy to find. I found one example box, which has a clear cover too. If you place the relays and fuses appropriately, you can check their conditions visually (relay leds, fuse condition etc.) after closing the box. For waterproofing, you can use red liquid sealant around the cables' box entrance and around the box cover before screwing it.

Plug it in with (a good) USB cable and use Android Auto?

There are firmware updates for the radio's and there maybe one for your own. Try to hold down Menu/Setup button for about 10 seconds and then sniff about in the menus for Software Train Post back if you find something there I can check.

for your information if anyone wants to do the same, some images before/after

An update. Dealer has told me this morning that there is a new recall to deal with the problem of the 12 volt battery discharging under certain conditions. Apparently it is a software update. At least Skoda acknowledge that there is a problem. Once I have more info I will share it here

@rdemirel, I guess you're referring to your Karoq, rather than a Citigo, in which case you'd be better off in the model-specific forum for that car.

No, nothing yet, but i dont have contact with the dealer, it's a lease through fleetprices, intend to chase them this week as i need to arrange return of my current Octavia with BCA

The other value matches, and if you want to save some dealer money... I can send link (but you need to use a CD burner!)

Sorry I should have included that. I am in the Algarve, Portugal

Ok good ! USB choice is available now. I will test the upgrade tomorow. Thanks a lot.

Yes, 272 should be better on fuel on the motorway. Exhaust flaps actually does nothing. Slight difference, insignificant. But just the clicking when it cycles at engine start makes me chuckle.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you get the Pingi permanent bag type and put them on the dash place them indicator side down as the sun fades the bags - and don't like me reverse the colour code in your head (even though it's clearly displayed on the bag) and put them in the microwave dry as when you open the micro wave door little beads fall everywhere - didn't even have it for a week, I also learnt two were needed really.

@Andy Cope You will stuggle to find a more knowledgeable owner or a better maintained twincharger. http://www.fabiavrs.com Better you look for an enthusiast maintained car and do not go with Full Main Dealer servicing history, or a history of being at main dealers and maybe not much done.

Any car is just a collection of parts, replace, upgrade or if you have the room just keep it and get another jalopy to do the daily grind. The engine has to be good for 250k plus but not the turbo, clutch , exhaust etc Saying that I'm almost up to 150K and 18 years and all original so far replaced coil springs, brake discs , radiator, front wind screen , passenger window mech and aux belts but not the cam belt thats well over due and must happen this spring summer ...... good luck with yours buddy!

Damn....$2k-ish for a new unit!! I would buy a 2nd hand unit, locally or from overseas. I sourced mine from overseas. I sold my originals for dirt cheap a few years ago.

Welcome to the dark side! so where to start, difference in the 272 and 280 is the 272 has a 7spd I believe, 280 had the 6spd. there are some slight engine differences 2 such as 1 has 4 injectors, the other 8. (I may be wrong on the differences between the 2 engines) regarding tail pipes, the sportline doesn’t decide the chrome real tail pipes, the 272/280 is the only one with real tail pipes. The sportline and L&K non 272/280 get just chrome plastic surrounds. sportline in my opinion looks a lot better with the interior and black trim. A lot of the extras on an L&K are hard to find on a sportline when not specced new so a high spec model is hard to find! A lot of it can be retrofitted though. canton is a definite heated windscreen is also - this also means heated seats which is lovely dcc isn’t exactly much to go wrong - but shocks like to leak on them and they’re not cheap at almost £500 a corner! If possible and you’ve got the budget, set it about 24k and look for a 280 sportline (estate is my preference) and wait for a full spec with sunroof, electric tailgate and all the other good stuff to come up, it’s worth the investment.

Have you checked the key fob battery ... I used to have a Golf that moaned about the key when the fob battery was low ... easy to check.

Both in case of 1.3, as it uses fan from non-ac 1.6. I can understand reason behind that, as neitherrelay and switch are 100% reliable (espwcially in the engine bay environment) and putting them in series increases chance of failure. I don't think this is good place for unit with exposed contacts, I'd put it closer to the battery or get enclosed relay box. (ideally both)

Auto windows reset also!

Not too many problems doing that, you'll have to reset the time and the trip mileage will be lost, there will also be a few warning lights come up but they will disappear within a couple of hundred metres. The infotainment system will retain any codes in the ECU so no problem there. Have you checked the resting voltage of the car battery?

Hey Its the brake upgrade from this forum with ford calipers and hyundai discs thats the only good pic i have..the rest dont show more detail than that. are you interested in any detail in particular? thanks for your help and advice guys

What's the difference between neighbouring inserts? IIRC, there was a limit, too and it is more critical than absolute value. Edges of adjacent liners should be perfectly in level.

My usb installed the maps pack in 25mins. Incase you wish to compare.

Graphite grey colour with pulsar aero rims