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As quoted by others, the VW self study guide of EA 288 certainly confirms that the exhaust gases have passed through both the CAT and the DFP before being returned to the inlet manifold. Also given that this engine has been around for a while now, across multiple VW group vehicles, I do feel that one could conclude that there are no issues with this particular component, else this forum, along with many other well established ones i.e Audi, VW and Seat, we would by now have seen issues well documented, as was the case with the CR 2.0 that was plagued with issues and had a high failure rate. I certainly don't recall ever seeing an EA288 equipped vehicle smoking like the old 1.9 and 2.0 models in all my travels😀.

The dealer fitted a new blower fan motor for me and it is working great. He phoned to say he could bring it round in an hour if I would be home and I said yes. About 45 minutes later he phoned to say he would be a bit late as when moving it in the garage he thought the back brakes were sticking so he had but it up on the ramp. Both back brakes were scuffing so he stripped the drums off, cleaned every thing up and lubricated the pivot points. I was quite impressed because a less scrupulous garage would have brought the car round to me and left me to find a problem further down the line. So today I had my new car, driving great, Climatronic system working as it should and delighted with the dealer service. A big thank you to Danderhall Cars.

Where did you buy your time machine? I would like one too!

LEDs can be far more reliable, but aftermarket automotive ones are extremely variable in quality. Loads of posts on here about multiple failures in people determined to mess about with suchlike.

Thanks, with the early L&K's you couldn't actually have black! I do like the brown, but not sure it would work with Jungle Green! I actually really like the beige and its no different to keep clean than anything else, it just helps as you can see the dirt! Also stays cooler in summer I assume. Same as most people say!

That clicking sound will most likely be the relay, so that appears to be working ok, although the relay contacts could still be the problem.

This topic kind of died, so let's revive it Anyone did anything more? What's the results? I have done rear door, but not same way as front. This time butyl mats are only in the lower triangle, below the reinforcement. Didn't want to remove the window, so appied only there, where i could reach using opening for the speaker (did that while replacing rear speakers). For door trim used 10mm foam. Again it got a bit more quiet inside, with less noise from the tires. Yep, seems a lot of this noise os coming through the doors Next i'm planning to: 1. Apply mats and foam to the hood 2. Apply additional 10mm of foam to front doors 3. Wheel arches in front (for now) 4. Maybe floor in the front, without removing chairs.

Hello guys and gals Proud owner of beautiful Octavia, from from Norway here. Glad to find you

And it knows it from where? Yes, sat-nav and maps Works perfectly, at least here in Poland.

To draw a line under this. I have today had the car collected and a full refund of the purchase price. A positive shout-out to Silverline Motors of Ashton-in-Makerfield, near Wigan. now to find a replacement…

New wheels and tyres: Fake exhaust and chrome strip also vinyl wrapped to match the rest of rear bumper:

My 60 plate skoda fabia scout 1.6d 105hp wont turn off unless i switch my lights off. I recently changed my drivers side main bulb with a generic bulb from local parts store. I have since discovered that if my lights are on, my car wont turn off when i take the key out, i can then turn the engine off by turning the lights off. If the lights are off, the ignition behaves normally. Do I have to use some kind of specific Skoda bulb. I have not removed this bulb to see if everything returns to normal. Rear wiper is also working intermittently. Does anyone have a similar story or advice for me.

For sure, there is 0490 available. I shall send by PM.

Is your 1.4 a BXW engine code? If so, then yes, fuse 31 should be a 10A fuse feeding the heater circuit of both oxygen sensors.

IIRC, the horn is mounted behind the front bumper, requiring its removal to access, I suggest checking a wiring diagram to see if there is a more accessible connector in the loom where voltage to the horn can be tested. Failing that, it may be an idea to locate and try replacing the relay.

Thanks both of you @varooom. that’s pretty interesting to see where it’s positioned. im in the process of fitting a memory passenger seat so half tempted to attempt to make this work with memory seats. Could be done with some internal modifications to the switch packs. also if anyone has a destroyed ventilated seat - let me know, I want to strip it down and see if it’s feasible to fit to a sportline seat somehow.

The engine changed in 2015 so it depends. Early models up to 2015 were CFHF EA189, then it changed from 2015 on to EA288. So if you have the CFHF engine, its the earlier EA189. (I think).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No I'm not techy either, so don't take my terminology as gospel but just as to give you the idea of what I mean. You've probably seen and heard of these things you plug in for the cars computers to perhaps give out the error codes for issues on the car. Some are just basic scan tool error code readers, they show the error codes the car gives them. These scan tool error code readers should be used as a diagnostics tool to help find what is wrong, rather than as an absolute answer as many think they give (and sometimes it might be the answer). Going up a couple of levels from there are scan tools that not only give a lot more information but can also act on the car, say get a cooling fan to switch on or one headlight, etc., as part of a diagnostics or just to test an individual part is able to be activated. Getting a headlight bulb out can be half a day's (DIY at least) work on some cars so if it lights up it's not the bulb or direct connections at least at fault. You did put about the clicking in your opening post and I did question relay as possibility but Warrior193 has given you a better reply. Relays aren't listed in the Owner's Manual and I've never looked at them, you need the guys good on electrics here. One thing good, I have just checked for you and the fuse box in my wife's car has the same hole in the fuse box as yours, but the 15 amp fuse at F44 (Cigarette lighter, 12-volt power socket) below the hole is the darker blue same as the other two 15 amp fuses at F27 and F49 doesn't really mean anything other than perhaps that fuse has been changed.

No drums on a vRS @VWD.

Hey, been driving my Octy for a bit more than 3 months now and noticed this today. Not sure if it happened during driving as it caught our attention about 3 hours after the car was parked. Compared to some other pics one can say it’s not great not terrible, but still not a very nice thing to see.

Yeah. Sorry I saw @pab567 on another post and realised I tagged the wrong person. I was going to change it before @varooombeat me to it lol.

IIRC, they come with the variable service interval which assumes something like 10+k miles are - so 2 years or 20k miles. The alternative is an annual service which given your situation is what I would choose. The dealer can set the car to fixed interval so the reminders in car make more sense.

Both our TSI's only ever have Momentum in them, with the rare exception of if it's not available. I had a tank of 95 Ron three years ago in Italy, and I'm certain I could notice a difference, not perhaps when pootling, but when under load. It had a tank of Esso Supreme (99) recently when Tesco was closed and I couldn't notice any difference (except in my wallet - think it was £1.99pl). Gaz

Good advice thanks

There are 32 Local Authorities, they or their Council Tax / Business Tax payers fund them. Lots were funded from EU money and that has gone, the Scottish & UK Government are funding stuff they are committed to, but now it falls on Councils to pay for maintenance & new stuff they plan and install. There are still grants though. Perth & Kinross is now 35 pence a kWh. 60 minute time limit, £10 penalty. Same as Edinburgh City, but 30 minute limit and £30 penalty. Stirling Council still free. No time limit. Their Minibuses plugged into 43kW AC chargers getting 11 kW, when only 3 chargers 43 kW chargers (1 of those was broken) and plenty 11 /22's right beside them. http://chargeplacescotland.org/charge-point-tariffs ....................... Nobody else came past when i was on the Rapid. I was 49 mins on the 7kW, 5.65 kWh 36 mins on the 50 kW before it cut out. 17.29 kWh 51 mins plugged in again & 14.2 kWh. That took me to 98 % and ready for later on driving. BBC Radio Scotland running stuff on Public Charging, probably from what the RAC has said about the cost, as in the Auto Car article.

Grrrr.... free does not work, it breeds the greedy. When are Scotland gov funded chargers going to require payment?

Sexy, isn't she ?

Looks very nice 🤝

Just a quick update. Due to the bar being corroded I'm going to take completely off and have it powder coated and then renew both clamps. Will ask the lads at Unit 18 to refit when I'm over there next week. Jabba ARB paint came off almost immediately and now it looks a right mess.

BS. The way into the boot which was also the case on Escorts at that time was using a pair of water pump pliers.

Check the diode in the light bulb. If the diode is burnt close that causes the issue of signalling open boot.

I do miss it on the admittedly few times we get snow, it was great to go out and ‘play’. I remember going out one year for a drive in the snow across Cannock Chase and a couple in a Mazda something-or-other flagged me down asking if I could tow them out of a drainage ditch at the side of the road. I asked them why they thought I had a tow strop and they said “you drive a Defender, of course you’ll have a tow rope” 😂

I have done this a couple of times. As D402 says, you can just turn the ignition off after you’ve retracted the parking brake. Then once everything is replaced, turn ignition back on and reset the parking brake with VCDS.

Better than earlier implementations of auto unlock. You could open some versions of the mkIII Ford Granada by kicking the back bumper - great security feature 🤣

Seems to be these hybrid things, personally I wouldn't touch them. My wife has a Cupra Formentor hybrid, same unit, she has had it for a year plugged in twice, or maybe three times, once at Tesco. One hour shopping got 9 miles on EV, got us home, that was it. When she first got it, Jan 22 I fully charged it took 6 hours on a Sunday. Monday was a freezing day, took daughter to school, had 29 miles on EV charge, school is less than 3 miles away, managed to fleece more than 10 miles of EV charge, since then only charged once more. At todays elastictrickey charges I'm not plugging that thing in anymore, did so a couple of weeks ago, 15 mins and smart meter racked up £2.50, sorry these PHEV Hybrids are not for me.

There's no need to leave the car switched on while you're working on the brakes, the park brake system will remember it's in service mode and allow you to reset it when you switch back on afterwards. The important things are: don't turn the piston to retract it, push it straight back don't reset until the brakes are fully reassembled

https://blog.caristaapp.com/front-wipers-alternating-parking-position-whats-behind-this-complicated-setting-s-name-f0f392a364fe Hmm, when my car knows its on a highway, it only activates high beam on the "forest side". "The headlights also provide different lighting modes for various situations and weather conditions, such as driving in the city, on the motorway or in the rain." https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-kits/skoda-octavia-press-kit-2/new-technology-shift-by-wire-full-led-matrix-headlights-as-well-as-numerous-new-safety-assistance-systems/ should do some changes even on low beam.

Over stay charging is the best of all. With proper signage. at least 45 minutes, 60 or 70 minutes as a max. Sadly at Edinburgh Aitport park & ride the Rest of Edinburgh City Council chargers the Stickers on chargers are pathetic, and many do not see the small print. £30 after 30 minutes on the 50 kW ones. (3 hours on the 22 kW( There are those that have charged and gone and will find out later, and then those that see too late so keep on charging since they are already paying the £30 penalty.

Hope your car is feeling better soon. Nice pad, I hope my room and the Kiwi sanctuary have been sorted

This ^^ plus the EGR isn’t an issue anymore like in the PD and early CR VW engines. Almost no failures or issues are reported about EA288 engines 1.6 and 2.0 in this forum. No need of a race pipes, intake manifold cleaning, etc. Blocking it won’t give you any performance improvements. Do regular oil changes, some “Italian tune up” from time to time and optionally a tank of premium diesel every 3-4 fill ups. EGR helps you get up to the operating temperature quicker which is already a bit slow process on these engines. And also decreases the engine wear due to the same reason. For the DPF, leave it to complete its regens when possible.

I have one with 17k miles fsh, totally original and only serviced/items replaced with genuine parts. As mentioned, they do exist but this isn’t daily driven

this is the one i got - https://www.ebay.ie/itm/331758607878 still listed, so thats good. fits really well and still in good condition considering the abuse its gotten...

And a look here: https://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel3.php?emulate=carbox&query=5809 https://rhinoukbootlinersltd.co.uk/skoda---extendable-two-part-boot-liner-5451-p.asp

Try carmats.co.uk. The one I've linked below looks like a rubberbacked carpet mat but at the bottom of the page there are references to an 'offroad' all 'rubber' version. Certainly worth an ask. https://carmats.co.uk/products/skoda-octavia-hatchback-2004-2008-boot-mat?variant=35876857905306&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAiA76-dBhByEiwAA0_s9S49L5HVBVdA6YsodrOveOsCj9sSHq1AWFMFGGxSuNO8qtJwXNtoYxoCpzsQAvD_BwE#productModelsFit

@Nen_Vu I'll go digging in my emails and find a supplier, i got one from germany for my 2012 hatchback back in 2018, so they do exist...

There's no need to remove the lip with a file before measuring with digital calipers. Just use something like a couple of magnets to measure the thickness of the disc including the thickness of the magnets. Then deduct the thickness of the magnets to get the thickness of the disc. Or if you haven't got magnets, use something else such as a couple of coins. That way, the digital calipers will be able to reach over the lip without the lip affecting the measurement.

finally here

Hi, I did an investigation and it is as follows: everything looks brand new, ground is OK. What I found is that there is something wrong with trunk lock. Plate countour lights are dim with trunk open. Coil resistance measurements (changing from 6 to 60ohms, can't find a rule - maybe there's some short, but it's working theoretically OK), open/close switch working. Every time I press trunk button, either on trunk lid or on the remote -> car is getting crazy, igniton on, lights on. With lock disconnected, nothing happens when I press the trunk button. Installing W5W bulb or shorting open/close to ground all perfectly fine. Bulb blinks, switch indicates open/close. I ordered new trunk lock, we will see.

Hi, Did you manage to solve this issue? My Fabia RS 2011 presents the same symptoms, engine working when key off and lights on. Rear wiper also does not switch on every time, sometimes it just does not work. Previous owner had some troubles with martens, but except from hood insulation there is no visible damage. Best regards, Pawel.

Made emblem/signage changes on my sportline karoq: Bought from superskoda.com - unfortunately front badge isnt a perfect fit (even tho I had it installed in detailing shop) Either way, much better looking than standard skoda emblems