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In case it may be of use to others I thought I would document my experience relating to my 2013 TDI 170 misfire. To my dismay, after having owned the Yeti from new in 2013, it recently developed a misfire when accelerating mildly for around the first half mile from a cold start, although cold idle seemed ok. Once it was warm it appeared to be fine. The misfire seemed to me to have been similar to that experienced on a petrol vehicle with a defective ignition relating to one cylinder. Searching around the web it looked as if there were many possible causes for this, so out came the trusty VCDS. No error codes were set ( I should explain I am neither a diesel nor a vcds expert,) so again I needed to educate myself a bit in these areas. Using 'Advanced Measuring Values' on VCDS and logging the results showed that the fuel rail pressure was following the specified value fairly precisely, and the boost pressure ( I think that is the right term) looked to me as if it was ok. However, the Injection Quantity Deviation mainly for cylinder 2 was rising to 3mg/Litre (appearing to be compensated by the others) when driving from a cold start, but settled within specification (difficult to dicscover precisely for the CFJA engine, but for some seems to be around +/- 2.8mg/stroke) when warm / hot; this suggested a problem with cylinder 2's injector or something in that area. I have to say I found the VC-Graph application that ships with VCDS less than user friendly, and actually used a spreadsheet (OpenOffice) to 'chart' the results logged in the VCDS .csv files; the charts produced were I think a good indication of what was happening with the Injector Quantity Deviations, although as the ECU seemed to be adjusting these to compensate for one another I was not entirely confident that my suspicions about Cylinder 2 were correct. I had already checked the glowplug resistances as these had been suggested by a friendly mechanic, although I thought these would have potentiially caused difficulty starting and rough idle rather than the symptoms described above. To cut a long(ish) story short, I booked the car in with a diesel specialist in Norwich (Allstart Diesels, with whom I should say I have no connection) who removed an tested the injectors and confirmed that indeed injector 2 was faulty as shown by a leak back test, although all injector spray patterns were good on the bench. New injector fitted (I declined the rather expensive option of replacing all four) and all now ok! Having learnt a bit from this experience and following a few searches on the web, I think for any similar issues I would purchase a leak back test kit to confirm the VCDS findings. Maybe should add that Allstart also checked the fuel pump for contamination in case that had led to the injector failure, but all was ok. Enough of my ramblings, but if this is of any use to others it will have been worthwhile.

Sounds to me like a driving style thing. The extra coasting is causing @Danoidto brake harder/more which is having the effect of cleaning the brakes off. I think most would use eco as designed to lift much earlier than normal and coast and then tap a pedal to engage a gear for a little bit of engine braking near the stopping point. The use of eco doesn't necessarily make the car use the brakes more. It's how you make use of the "feature".

Does it have to be a MkI 🤔

Thanks for the input. I was getting very frustrated to put it mildly...I just unpacked the struts that did not fit and Carlston you have it right as the struts in the boxes are a different model. So thanks for that very much. I will raise this with the seller tomorrow. Cheers 🍻

I know I know, but didn’t want to star a new thread just to show my arch guards 😯

I was more thinking safety of paying customers. Use a mechanic that might not earn much more per hour than an the same hours mini-cabbing and gets parts cheaper than you maybe can unless you get trade discounts. Car maintenance is an overhead of the business after all and the tax man recognises that.

So I see you guys have been having fun with my thread 🙂 - good interesting stuff I decided my battery was effectively dead (in that it would not drive start/stop and gave up the ghost after parking for short period swith the lights on) biught a new one , adapted it and start/stop works fine again. Thanks to all that contributed.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. On your 2-amp charger once it shows full then does it go into maintenance mode which is only keeping it topped up to that full so the 48 hours does not really matter once you remove the charger as whatever the full is it is not being added to in that 48 hours. If your car is parked up for for 5 days could you remove the battery from the car to fully recharge it on your 2-amp charger in more stable and perhaps warmer conditions in home (I have no idea where you are and how cold it is). Then you can check what full is and how it holds over a period of the next couple of days off the car. Once the charger shows full you can disconnect it and take a reading about 12 hours later after the battery has settled from the recharge and take another reading(s) 12/24 hours after your first reading with the battery rested and off the car. Charging the battery again to full will be good as you have used the car since the previous time so the battery has had the cycles it is designed for and you have discharge so you can top it up. Are you taking the voltage readings from your 2-amp charger as well as your multimeter? Do you have another multimeter to check the readings? Do you have access to a battery tester for state of charge and state of health?

First of all thank you @varooom, @nta16 and @BigEjit for all your detailed suggestions tailored to my specific situation, I really appreciate it. ad 3. I recall that the battery had about 12.5V open circuit when I received it and that the manufacturing date code was about 3 months prior to the date I received it. ad 4. I drive the car for approx 7000 km/year where most of the trips are 40 min mostly highway, but also occasionally short trips. The car frequently stands still for 5 days at a time but it is rare that it exceeds a week. ad 5. I have not put an amp meter directly in circuit as my multimeter is rated only for 200mA and from other posts I understand that the sleep current may fluctuate (e.g. when the 4G SkodaConnect dongle wakes) so I have only measured the current draw indirectly by measuring voltage across the fuses and kept track of the battery voltage over time while parked. The latter being a poor indicator if the total capacity of the battery is nowhere near 70Ah anymore ad 6. Since I left the charger on for 48 hours in maintenance mode even though the charger reported the battery as already full, the battery seems to be in better health. After 3 hours parked the voltage is 12.59V and when parked for 24 hours it is now 12.52V. So much better than previously, but still either the current draw is high or the capacity of the battery is low as the energy loss from 12.59 to 12.52V is about 5Ah if the battery capacity is 70Ah when full which would suggest a current drain of about 215mA while parked.

@alex97180 @hyperb pls check your PM

I turn mine off, and Start/Stop, as a matter of routine when I drive off. I don't want even a slight tug on the steering wheel when I'm driving. As for indicating when changing lanes, you should only be doing so if another road user may benefit, otherwise it's pointless. After an overtake an indicate that you're pulling back into your original lane may or may not be needed.

New old wheels! Back to the factory 15s. Powder coated Arctic White by Taranaki Powder coating. 205/55R15 Dunlop SP Sport FM800 tyres fitted by Tyre Torque New Plymouth. Very happy with the results.

This has been irritating me for a little while. The hardboard had started to deteriorate with age and the metal clips didn’t grip it properly. Tried a couple of things to strengthen and glue it together and painted the inside to stabilise the material. Also re fitted the clips on the window wiper seal. Much better.

🤣 exaclty, thats why, it is already uncomfortable! nah, seriously, yes, i guess al backpacks, water, two ramps in case i need extra traction and probably pair of wheels in the roof, and maybe a bike, it will fit, between the roof and the trunk and the bike with the.. that thing to carry a bik,e i dont know the name in english

The Sagittarius alloy rims have the usual Karoq 8Jx19 ET45 specification. I suggest you sell them before they get damaged on the kerb. You should get a good price on ebay if they are not damaged. They are very prone to kerbing damage because the 8J rims are quite wide for the 225/40R19 tyres, so that the sidewalls don't bulge out much. 19" alloy rims are very heavy. As you can see below, they generally weigh over 13kg. Here are the weights of some Kodiaq 7Jx19 ET43 rims as given by "skoda eshop cz" ARONIA 13kg CRATER 13.5kg TRIGLAV 14.3kg Here are the weights of some Karoq 8Jx19 ET45 rims as given by "skoda eshop cz" CETUS 13.1kg CRATER 13.9kg VEGA 13.7kg Here are the weights of some Karoq 7Jx17 ET45 rims as given by "skoda eshop cz", so maybe around 3kg lighter than the 19" rims. KUMA 11.1kg RATIKON 10.1kg/10.9kg TRITON 10.5kg However, I've seen some lightweight 7Jx16 ET45 rims from some Audi A4/A6 cars around the years 1997/2003 that only weigh about 7.3kg each. So that would be a weight saving of about 6kg each rim compared to the heavy 19" alloy rims. Together with 225/60R16 tyres (from the Karoq 4WD), they could work quite well on the Karoq. Multiple the weight saving by four, and that's 24kg less unsprung weight or 30kg weight saving if you include the spare wheel. 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 alloy rims 8D0601025K (weigh only 7.3kg each) 9 8D0601025K Aluminium rim 7 JX16H2 ET45 5/112 4 PR-C8Y - 8D0601025K Z17 Avus silver Back to your original question. If you consider both 225/45R19 (from the Karoq 4WD) and 235/40R19 (from the Superb MK3), neither are particularly good options. Out of the two, I would probably go for 225/45R19 because at least it's a Karoq standard tyre size. Normally, I would say go for the 235/40R19 but although wider than the 225/45R19 it will still give little protection from kerbing damage. At least the 225/45R19 should roll a little better and give ever so slightly more mpg. If you like 19" rims, I would go for the much narrower 7Jx19 ET43 rims from the Kodiaq with 225/45R19. Because the rims are so much narrower than 8J, the tyre's sidewalls will bulge out considerably more and therefore should give the rims a modest amount of protection from kerbing damage. The Karoq is related size wise to the Octavia, and the Octavia up to MK3 used common and cheap tyre sizes. You can still get excellent 195/65R15 for little more than £50 each. Some of the 225/45R19 sizes are close to £200 each. Such is progress. Of course, the 195/65R15 is no use to Karoq owners, but slightly oversize 215/65R16 rather than the standard Karoq 2WD 215/60R16 would fit. Vredestein Quatrac 6 195/65R15 91H https://www.camskill.co.uk/m138b0s7994p202140/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_-_195_65_R15_91H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Vredestein Quatrac 6 215/65R16 98H https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/vredestein/quatrac/215/65/R16/H/98/m?tyre=41007498 Vredestein Quatrac 6 225/60R16 102H XL (standard Karoq 4WD tyre size) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s8011p202131/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_-_225_60_R16_102H_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB I am using the Vredesteins as examples of good all-season tyres which I've often used myself, but there's many other premium brands of all-season tyres such as Bridgestone, Continental, Goodyear, Hankook, Michelin, etc. that have often done well in tyre reviews. Outside diameter of tyres 215/65R16 685.9mm (+2.0% compared to 215/50R18) 225/60R16 676.4mm (+0.6% compared to 215/50R18) 215/50R18 672.2mm 225/40R19 662.6mm 225/45R19 685.1mm (+1.9% compared to 215/50R18) 235/40R19 670.9mm

I had my 245 tsi mapped at Awesome in December Pulled 244bhp/280lb/ft standard and 310bhp/354lb/ft after the oem+ stage1. Also had the tcu mapped which is just as impressive, instead of racing for 7th gear in drive mode it holds gears better and is much more dynamic and in sport mode it doesn't hold gears for too long unless you are tonking it (the oem tcu map always held gear for too long even under light throttle I felt) Another thumbs up for Awesome, they shut at 5.30 and my car was still strapped down to the rollers at 5.55 because the tech wasn't fully happy with a flat spot in the graph.

ohhh! pretty interesting! BUT BUT... um.. there is a part of the track where the road is covered with oot of small rocks, those that give you that terrible vibration, that is where i compensate with reducing the tire pressure, if i get a stiffer suspension, i would be transferring more vibration to the car and its component. i think i would prefer a lift kit

Colourful Sky this evening and Clumber Park looking resplendent in the afternoon sun..............

I’m hoping as we go into Spring and eventually Summer my MPG figures will only increase

Hi All, have a Skoda 1.4tdi 2009 with fault code P0401. Workshop Exhaust appears and once whipped it comes back after a drive. Engine light comes on as well. I'm looking at possible faults to check/clean. I'm going to inspect EGR valve and clean, what else to check like sensors etc? No Dpf filter on this model. What sensors and other items can cause the fault. EGR valve was replaced 10k ago and car has been well maintained. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Carlson for the benefit of your knowledge. I did not realise that my Crater alloys were 8J section. The set that I was considering have now gone but I will keep looking for another set that will fit the right criteria, and also look on this Briskoda site for used ones for sale, thanks Alan

With a main dealers work there is a 2 years parts and labour warranty on their work. If the Independent guarantees their work then good. But if it is the Skoda Extended Warranty that is important to you then read and understand the T&C's.

You might find this helpful. https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/188650-Fault-code-5286-likely-fix Bon chance....👍

This is a brilliant find! In all my years of owning cars, I've never seen this simple tool before.

What about 1.4 TSI? Same procedure?

That is quite remarkable considering the number salted winter roads they would have had to suffer. I lived in the UK for 30 years so know how bad it can be. Since there is no snow here rusting is rare in South Australia unless the vehicle has been driven through surf on vehicle accessible beaches (not my thing).

You said earlier your vehicle was diesel powered which would correspond with the emissions fix, did you mean to say the exhaust smells of carburant rather than petrol? I have VCDS and live in France, I am in Bergerac but travel frequently to Picardie.

I asked the Cheltenham garage if they used original manufacturer parts as I am eager to keep my monthly care plan going. So, the £694.00 inc vat price is with us using O/E equivalent parts (these are the same quality parts as genuine but without the main dealer logo.) So, if the genuine parts were needed with the main dealer logo branded onto them, I can confirm that the cost would change to £844.02 inc vat/fitting. .....I assume the parts would not qualify without the main dealer logo - or am I mistaken?

Yeah it does; I always run with map slightly bigger and Spotify smaller so both are displayed

I put Phillips XtremeVision Gen2 D3S xenon bulbs in mine almost 4 yrs ago. They're brilliant. https://youtu.be/h4MRMKYGTTY

The issue was / is the security of the attachment, the sister brands and models with the same engines are part of the Safety Critical Recall. Biggest car manufacturer in the world until caught cheating and can not organise a pi55 up in a brewery, or a recall of parts and timely design & manufacturing of replacements because they are not being pushed to.

Hi. thanks for your answer No, I didnt try it that because I didnt know how to do that. I searched on Google, and I found a service manual for repairing a/c and I think that is a motor flap behind the glovebox (V159). Look at that: I also found that video, it is not the same car, but I think is same motor temperature flap I will try to fix it two hours later. Crossing fingers

Do you have the virtual pedal hardware - specifically the sensor under the rear valance?

Hatchback Left: 3T5 853 701 Right: 3T5 853 702 Combi/Estate Left: 3T9 853 701 Right: 3T9 853 702

Just took delivery of my vRS 2.0 TSi (Oct 22 build according to my dealer) and it has the latter style cover on it. According to them, Kodiaks are still being delivered without the cover.

Pleased to hear it is working out for you so far. The 1.4tsi can be quite economical too in my experience. No ICE car likes short runs from cold starts but driven sensibly then journeys over 5 miles should average in the 40's and better that when the temps go up and/or journeys are longer. Australians are used to torque box autos so they often burn out the DSG clutch packs because they don't adapt their driving to what is an automated manual. Typically at traffic lights they will stop and just press the footbrake enough to hold the car still. Not a real problem in a torque box but I believe DSGs only disengage if the foot brake is pressed firmly otherwise they are semi-engaged as for an expected hill start and burn out the dry clutch. Not such a problem with the wet clutch DSG fitted to more powerful engines. Enough of a problem in Aus for Skoda to release the Mk4 Octavia with the old 1.4tsi engine and an Aisin torque automatic and not the Euro 1.5tsi and DSG although it is with the Scala There are videos on the topic on the internet. The Rapid was only sold in Aus with the 1.2tsi engine but I keep a look out in case a reasonably priced/mileage version (preferably manual) comes on the market locally although sales were low here. It would be to replace my 20 year old Toyota Echo which refuses to die

having owned a Tesla for14 months I will stick with my Enyaq for now 😉. Our local council introduced charges of 40p per kWh on our local rapids - same as my peak rate at home. Allof a sudden the rapid chargers which were in use constantly, are now available for use. Much better for those with nohome charger, they can now use the chargers provided byu the council www.youtube.com/@enyaq_gorm

I have looksed on the EU saftey gate site it seems like only cars manufactured between 01.08.2020 - 28.02.2022 are subject to recall. My guess is they decided it was more "cost effective" to just remove the cover for later cars which is why my car didn't come with one 🙂 https://ec.europa.eu/safety-gate-alerts/screen/webReport/alertDetail/10005912

Just had my first bit of news regarding build of the car - ordered end of November 2021- directly through VWFS UK on Business lease: "Your new Octavia Hatch SE L 1.4 TSI iV 204 PS DSG is currently allocated an unconfirmed build in the week commencing . Though this can still change depending on the factory schedule, based on that date we’d expect it to arrive at the dealership around ." Great to hear it might be built, but obviously no info on delivery date or if it'll get built then sit awaiting parts This was an SEL iV in Race blue, wireless charging, rear wiper, traffic assist and winter pack (heated seats, heated screen and heated wheel) I hope everyone gets some unexpected good news soon!

1, Lockdown killed off plenty of batteries due to inactive vehicles. After approx 6 weeks layup with the battery connected, they will be in a discharged state with sulphates growing and hardening = unrecoverable capacity losses result ultimately requiring an early life change of battery if not fully charged ASAP! 2, Low battery warnings frequently coincide with other abnormal electrical warnings. 3, The principle signature of a discharged damaged battery is failing stop start esp if all other consumers are off. Do you know if the new battery was stored fully charged before you bought it or its age? Did you use the vehicle frequently after fitting the battery before having to externally charge? If no to either of these, this is the most likely root cause. 4, What sort of usage pattern do you have with the vehicle? Approx annual Kms/miles and downtime between journeys as an average? This is another key indicator of response and performance from the battery you are reporting and also a common root cause of early life failures. 5, Current draw is more important than voltage loss when vehicle is fully asleep - should be around 0.014Amps if i remember right. Any more and the battery discharges sooner requiring more use or charge cycles to compensate or even more unlikely, indicates a consumer is failing to switch off correctly (Dashcams are prime favourite here) 6, A fully discharged battery needs 24hrs to recharge and saturate the plates. a few hours run time won't have much lasting affect and leave the battery back in the original discharged state very quickly if the usage pattern stays the same. Frequent full recharging from fully discharged by just running the vehicle on periodic long journeys can also increase wear rates on the battery and lead to moisture loss and overheating. Heat from frequent and brutal alternator based recharging from fully discharged state and/or intense summer temps also damages the battery from moisture loss and by turning the plates to mush losing capacity, which then usually shows in winter when cold. Overcharging a battery results in surplus energy being turned to heat..., which boosts waterloss..., which pushes things closer towards self detonation if there is a significant presence of internal damage already.......

Yes that is so true, Feel like my P-Zero's are great in the dry but shockingly bad in the wet and cold. Also where I got the replacement tyre from said they will take the bulging tyre and send it to Pirelli, they were unsure how to as nobody has done it before, interested to see how it goes.

This update is enabled by Google on the server side, probably per account. That's why you have it on one phone, but not other. AA version is not that important (as long as it's 8.6 or higher), same goes for headunit firmware - not important. Those who do not have it can only wait till Google will enable it, and no one knows what is the key here, as ir seems very random.

Finally got stage 3 done...

I think you may be a bit confused - when i refer to the electronic water pump i mean the belt driven pump has an electronically controlled shroud - now if the garage has fitted a shroudless pump that would be saving about £50, the auxiliary water pumps are what im assuming you mean by electronic ones? Its also a bit confusing for everyone if you say it was £375 but forget to mention that that was 4 years ago long before prices sky rocketed for a lot of this work - may be worth editing your post to make that clear so others dont think they are being ripped off in this current climate.

They should make Roman numeral spaghetti like they do Alphabetti Spaghetti, they would not need so many dies!

Format the card (FAT32) and unzip maps to it (folder maps must be placed directly on SD)

Not sure which update they tried to actually apply, as you cannot go directly from 1668 to 1896. It has to be done in two stages, so you have to load this release "SK20220307SEQSW96" (they will know, or they should know!) To read the blocked train version, take the value seen and add 1 in front to read the MUVersion, so "MOI3_EU_SK_R7880L" = "MUVersion 1788"

I did a lift on mine 40mm tema4x4 spacers front and rear and roomster rear springs, the body needed a trim to fit the tyres 😂

Petrol Blue would be an example of a poor Skoda colour. Dark and drab unless perfectly cleaned, waxed and with the sum at the right angle. Those little Skoda orb in the showrooms are misleading, take them outside and see what they look like.