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Hello everyone. I'm a Brit living here in the Czech Republic. I am definitely a Yeti man; five years ownership in April. I'm here to be part of this community, just as I am in three Yeti Facebook groups. My Project Yeti website will be five years old this August. Although I have quite a lot of experience now in upgrading/modifying the first gen Yeti I'm sure there are still new and exciting ideas to be discovered. And the support here for general issues is invaluable (I have a heated seat issue which I will be posting about in the relevant forum later). Anyway, thank you. Daniel.

We spotted a GoldenEye earlier, along with a few others............

I have a vast amount of general experience with tuned vehicles of all shapes and sizes and I wouldn't touch one of these with a ten foot pole unless it was really properly cheap. The problem is double jeopardy, both the engine AND the gearbox are unreliable, particularly at these ages and mileages, the trade knows this so any warranty you might get won't cover your ass when it all goes wrong, and it will!

You would need access to a VCDS or similar to code it. Skoda will do it for you but there are also plenty of independents that have the capability.

Can't believe anyone took time to write all of that. After reading the title, I was expecting how the dealer screwed things up. The only person that made an error here is YOU! What are you expecting from any service report? I really feel for dealers. If it's not someone coming on to this forum complaining they've not been told about 3yr 4x4 oil change, then it's someone complaining the dealer didn't clean the filter. Now it's someone complaining they WERE informed about that 3yr oil change ! OMG. That dealer didn't do a thing wrong. They did exactly what any dealer should do, regardless of who the manufacturer is. Of course they're looking for more money. You obviously have no business brain if you think otherwise. Begs the question - have you ever owned a car before and had it serviced at a main dealer? Because everyone of them is like that. Independents too. Christ, you can't even go in to McDonalds without them asking would you like a bigger one. And then someone else comes along and comments " Don't get me started about main dealer servcing". Please tell us what this Stirling dealer did wrong? You're even complaining about the video they sent ! If you don't want a video then tell them not to send a video. when you drop it off. Why do people take such pleasure from making life complicated? EDIT: just thinking about people who love to moan. If your car was serviced at Stirling then when not check your service report and tell everone which grade of engine oil they used to service your car. If like me, you'll find it's the correct grade. Of course nobody mentions this, what happens is the usual culprits wait on someone posting about some dealer using the wrong grade of oil, then the Briskoda vultures happily tell the whole world that every main dealer does the same. It'd be refreshing for once to hear from someone who's happy.

Been in my Kia Niro 2 (the newest one) since the end of October (I’ve got the hybrid version, not full electric) and done 7k miles in it…… it does have plenty of electric trickery…. So much so we’ve called it “Robot” (the registration number is the real reason for the name RO72VOP but still apt!) I’m not a fan of the ‘box myself. Feels more like an old-school auto box vs the modern DSG in the VAG’s. Does what it wants in manual mode and the engine very often will sit at 4k going up hills on motorways etc due to lack of grunt. Doesn’t make for a relaxing motorway journey if I am honest. I won’t put it in manual mode anymore as it’s so poo. Fuel economy sucks on a run, too. Did Bristol to Cornwall the other week for work with cruise set at 72 and managed 43mpg! I’ve found that on a motorway run it switches to electric charge mode often as the battery isn’t big enough to cope and needs frequent recharging. Superb fuel economy driving around Bristol city, which is where this hybrid is best used. Easily get 70mpg around town. Overall economy (calculated) is 53mpg, 54 shown on the dash trip computer. Got plenty more to say about it and had considered leaving a review but didn’t think there would be any interest 😛

Car was returned the following day and it's running perfectly. My local agent's service manager who was excellent throughout reduced my bill. The learning point I think is to take your car to a workshop who have plenty of experience with the engine - TSi 1500 ACT in my case.

I'm taking delivery of a new Niro PHEV next Wednesday (March 1st new registration). Mine is the 4 trim level, so full spec with the fully electric adjustable seats which also automatically slide back when you are getting in/out of the car for extra room, one of our reasons for choosing the 4, as we both have old-age joint issues! I'll report on our impressions when we have had the car for a few days. One drawback with the PHEV is that the boot is a bit shallower due to the presence beneath of the traction battery (no spare wheel option) but my rollator fits in for everyday use, and for holiday travel we'll put the rear seats down (only the two of us).

Hi all, Here is my yellow Octavia vRS soon to be turned into a track ready daily driver. Plan is to fit my old S3 engine (AMK on 90k miles), 6 speed box with quaife LSD, bilstein coilovers, fully polybushed, and 4 pot brembos with 2 piece 330mm discs. Alot of work ahead but should be a good track car when done and will be used as a daily aswell. Not going full track car with it as want it to be usable still although I know the ride will be somewhat harsh for normal roads.

2 poster ramps (the type with swinging out arms) are not authorised for MOT testing, it has to be a drive on platform with jacking beams, a pit for larger commercial vehicles with similar jacking beams.

Even over a pit they jack it off its wheels. There would be no way to check the balljoints etc otherwise.

Answered 15th February, scroll up 🆙

Sorry, did you want me? Yes clearly I am joking 😄 Ok, on a serious note, if they get stolen often, and also you have to take into account the age of your car, perhaps aftermarket will suffice.. but if you are thinking to keep the car long term, then maybe it's worth getting the genuine and hope the thieves don't strike.

I suggest taking a look at the parts catalogues on LLL Parts or skoda-parts.

Here's the link, you don't need ODIS, but you need tool that can talk to the module and gain access to adjust. It persists in ALL modes, so no matter the profile it is gone for good.

Have you left the plastic sticker on the battery? Not sayin' how I know this can be an issue EDIT: scratch that, just read your post properly. Try another battery perhaps? Gaz

Yep, there's a bit missing but I have no idea what it might be called, 'beige coggy bit'? I could sell/post one to you, but every motor module of this era in every Polo/Fabia in every scrappie will have one.

Yes, its Steel Grey, though in my picture it looks a shade or two browner than it is in the flesh. Avoided the interstellar grey as being too dark and therefore showing the dirt more...though the piano black skirts on the higher spec Niros (matt black on base models) will show just as much dirt... they can't be avoided in any colour. We just thought the Steel Grey was the most elegant-looking of what was on offer (just personal taste). Saw most of the colours in the metal on various showroom models when choosing. The car does look stunning...unfortunately not enough room in showroom to get good pics...will put that right when we get the car home. As regards Cash/CarLoan/PCP we bought cash, partly because owing to an investment maturity we had the cash available (might as well reinvest it in a car as put it into some bond earning next to no interest) , but also because we've never experienced PCP and can't get our heads round the maths. To the untrained mind it seems PCP deals are more suited to people who want to change their cars frequently... we intend to keep this for a good time. (The present Yeti we've had for eight years from new...the longest we've ever kept a car for. And we're keeping it as our second car.) This Niro is probably the last car we will ever buy as by the time it needs replacing we'll be old enough to be giving up driving altogether. We chose the PHEV (plug-in hybrid) as it best suits our use: the electric range of nearly 40 miles is adequate for all our day to day trips, and we have a home charging point, so will almost never need to put petrol in it. But the hybrid side gives us all the range we will want for the occasional more distant day out and for holidays. We could not take the range anxiety of an EV at our age! We went for the top-of-the-range 4 spec mainly for the far superior fit and finish over the 2 and for a few bells and whistles like the memory/heated/ventilated/auto access enhanced electric seats (the two of us have very different ideas about positional comfort for driving). Most of the hi-tech wizardry we would prefer to be without... we are especially fearful that there will be a cacophony of warning and welcoming gongs and hooters, and are hoping there will be some way of turning them off, likewise some of the so-called safety features we'd rather be in control of ourselves, rather than the car taking over unexpectedly. It will be a steep learning curve, but we're hopeful that our favourable test-drive experiences will be borne out in real life. Also went top-of-the-range because in the past we have economised (out of necessity) and almost immediately regretted not having certain features. This last time it's all there to be used if we want it, or ignored if not. Will report back in due course.

You are really going to need to find someone with VCDS to put back the car onto what service regime it was on before, and turn off the inspection. It can all be programmed back in, but you will need to know if it was set to long life oil change or fixed.

Yes, L42 is a bulb in diagram, so you should be able to cap it off securely and the socket will be fine.

Update I ended up taking the car else where and they had pretty much spot on. May be ever so slightly off to right but a lot happier now.

Try this wiring diagram snippet T3b/1 = Brown - Earth T3b/2 = Black/White - Positive from Fuse SB42 T3b/3 = Green/Blue (colour may differ, but a thinner wire) that is the light for socket

Welcome @Project_Yeti A good base can be built on. I think a few models over. the years have prooven this with keen owners. I hope you find your answers.

Bl00dy 'ell!! An easier solution would've been to go into Convenience Opening settings for Windows Operation in the infotainment and turning it off!! Now u've butchered ur key fob!

As the other thread has replies I'll lock this one.

@Penpusher no one wants disable ACC, it switches OFF by self in bad weather conditions as result there is none CC this coding(in theory) adds CC as third option for two default ACC; Limiter

Micro hybrid is its correct term. It’s a software controlled way of reducing energy consumption and emissions by putting more work through the battery and only using alternator output when needed. It’s constantly varying and needs to know what is going on throughout the electrical circuits to determine the correct alternator output. It’s also set up to maximise the life expectancy of the battery during an average lifetime duty cycle. Unregulated charging overcharges the battery, excess energy is turned to heat. The last thing you need in a 12v battery is excess heat as it accelerates decay. A standard battery will work in S/S applications but it’s set up means it’s approx 50% less durable than the equivalent AGM. AGM - Absorbent Glass Mat Top spec SS battery that takes a lot of abuse very well and accepts charge faster than the alternatives. EFB - Enhanced Flooded Battery Entry level S/S battery with polymer based plate envelopes and electrolyte mixer elements to boost durability against abuse. A halfway house between SLI and AGM. SLI Flooded battery Starting/Lights/Ignition A basic battery that does the job but has no thrills at the expense of long term performance and resistance to abuse. Has a deep cycle frequency of around 50% less than the equivalent AGM. Will overheat quicker than alternatives if overcharged leading to moisture loss, wear, premature failure. Most likely to short circuit a cell or fail early out of these three battery types.

Thanks to all for valuable information and advice

I say I’ll call REVO/APR as that is what Lucifer said to use in case of mapping and APR normally have technicians that can answer calls and give you advice so thought it would be good. In terms of the warranty, maybe instead of just buying the warranty I would ask questions about to confirm certain things in what is covered and what not. That person isn’t that thread was obviously in the right and had a valid claim but there were a lot of issues. If I at least ask questions that confirm major issues such as gearbox and engine are definitely covered and have email proof, I at least have that to keep peace of mind. Maybe even see if they can do a pre warranty inspection and tick off that the car is fine so I don’t have them saying the fault was there before warranty was took when I run into problems

Perfect 🤝

Thanks for the help all wired up and working now thanks

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Its done now but for others - there's no need to worry about saving memories when disconnecting or replacing the battery see the 'Owner's Manual' for what's needed to replace, disconnect/reconnect or charge the car's battery. VWSkoda link for free pdf download of 'Owner's Manual' - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models varoom beat me to what I was going to put - see his previous post as his downloads detail of what 'coding' of the battery may be required - which it will be required if you've swapped from EFB to AGM battery.

Have you tried aliexpress.com? You may have to fight their search system for a bit but there's a lot of stuff like knobs available there.

Thank you both @MikeTheThinker and @varooom Two parts now successfully located here in Czech thanks to you: https://www.skoda-dily.cz/nahradni-dil/5l6853215a041-panel-d-sloupku-levy-skoda-25015.html https://www.skoda-dily.cz/nahradni-dil/5l08581791qb-zaslepovaci-vicko-skoda-39467.html The heater / heated seats knob I haven't managed to track down, new or used. I don't fancy buying the complete unit with all three knobs. Very pleased I joined Briskoda today. Thanks so much.

For the heater controls, try this part number. 3T0 820 047 P WHS Fresh air and heater controls in satin black/white. Ideally you need to show whole picture of unit, as there are variations. Part number for the missing switch you need or a blanking plate, the choices are... Traction Control ESP Parking Aid Offroad TPMS As written from Left to Right Ideally you need a VIN based search to get items. I have no idea what you need in first image, as it's just picture of body work (can you elaborate more?)

When you factor in fuel, the slighly extra cost is offset for sure 🤝 Nice link, might have to give that a click as someone probably lost the one that came with the car.

Thanks, my dealer is a few miles away so I bought this one for £2.50 which should do the job (if not I'll send it back): https://www.amazon.co.uk/DXIA-Covers-Universal-Hexagonal-Removal/dp/B08262X3M9

Best pay the 5* price to have the Haldex Serviced properly and not just the Oil Changed if the Dealership offers the option at a slightly higher cost. Kodiaq, but the same applies with other models. Some will not leave them as long as 3 years or 30,000 miles when they own the car or not do them if the car has to be serviced to the manufacturers recommendations, guidelines, specifications or schedule, but then that is never always that clear as often dealership staff do not tell customers. Those that do understand and explain what the Haldex or the VAQ is and what Final Drive or a rear diff is and the servicing needs should be praised IMO. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/508389-haldex-service

Thanks that’s enormously helpful, looks like a simple 180 degree turn. Had to be something simple. Don’t know why there is a partial blockage, always used VW screen wash. Live in a hard water area though.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Apparently it's a matter of a turn. See video that follows. ETA: wrong video, for a 2019 Fabia at least, so removed. I'm curious why you might on a three year old car need to clean the inside of the washer system, what's been used as washer fluid as I'd have thought most debris would be on the outside of the washer jets unless the car has been standing or washers not used for a long time when in my experience you can get a snot like gel in the fluid mixture. In particularly this could weather I'd not be touching any bits of plastic unless I really had to, and in warmer weather I'd be reluctant and very careful. Hope this video helps, (ETA: it didn't so removed) first one I found but it is a VW and still with fantastic-plastic, as no doubt(?) the Bentleys too. -

Thanks, I’ll let you know how I get on.

Don't apologise... it's better than my Portuguese! 😂

@MartiniB yes. IDE11477-ENG128654-Interior lighting: parameter-p_farbauswahl_HMI is responsible for the color number in the dropdown. I had the value 07 (00000111 - only 3 colors enabled) in my channel and I've changed it to 7F (01111111). I tried this because I thought that maybe I could add a 7th color. I think the correct value should be 3F (for 6 colors) but I haven't tried it yet. I saw that you have the value 19 (00011001) in this channel. You could try with 3F or 7F too and see if it will enable the others. These are the values that can be entered in there as I know: 00000001 - Warm White 00000010 - White 00000100 - Red 00001000 - Green 00010000 - Blue 00100000 - Turquoise 01000000 - Did not add another color 10000000 - Did not add another color Use this conversion table as an example: https://kb.iu.edu/d/afdl Let me know if it works 😁

Don't know whether you should be playing with your knob in public 😏

ACC, best this on the car (IMHO) transform the driving experience 😍

Thanks for you replies. It’s a 2020 1.0 tsi manual with full Skoda history with just under 33k. Well this morning I inspected the air filter and it was absolutely filthy! And it’s obviously the original filter. I changed this myself and after a run got an instant increase in MPG. The air filter change intervals on these seem far to high in my opinion. Oh and I’m not 89 it’s the year I was born 😃 and I did raise the poor MPG with Skoda and got the usual must be your driving style and not DTCs are logged etc etc. You’d think inspecting the air filter would be a basic check and I’m 100% going to be raising this with the service department at my local dealer. Once again thank you all for your comments and input 🤙🏻👌🏻

Cupra R bottom arms and hubs/knuckles almost ready to go off for powder coating and 6 speed gearbox collected along with the 4 pot Brembos. Quaife LSD is on order so looking forward to getting that fitted and also ordered the two piece discs with PBS pro race pads

Get a picture of currently fitted battery (make sure we can see the battery cover also) The new battery And you still need to post the year of your car

I love the original vRS green, but hyper is too loud and sometimes it’s definitely better to be a little under the radar.... my silver MY21 suits the car well, but I’d have gone orange if it had been an option.

Very unfair stereotype, I'll have you know 97% of all Range Rovers ever made are still on the road.......... ........the other 3% actually made it home. It does 👍