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Three years already! It been nearly 3 years since I purchased my 2.0TSI Karoq Sportline and the time had come for us to part ways. I did want a Kodiaq but could only afford a 2 year old model. A 2.0 TSI Sportline base spec was around 42K. Wife dislikes the Octavia and the Superb when I sat in it was nice but was too big. For me to buy a new 2.0 TSI I was looking at just over 40K with options(adaptive cruise control, virtual dash, spare wheel, red paint) Canton was not on the option list anymore. So I test drove a 1.5 TSI DSG(148BHP V 187BHP) and was surprised, it didn’t feel that much slower on the motorway but 0-60 is 9 seconds rather than 6.8 seconds. Could I live with this performance after 187 BHP? At 44 years old am I still deep down a bit of a boy racer? I ordered the car in at the end of January and I picked my new car up on the 19/04/23. List price £35k with options(DSG, virtual dash, Red, adaptive cruise and spare wheel), although when I picked the car up the price would be now £37400, there was a price increase on the 03/04/23 across the Skoda. The very helpful salesman(Jonny @ Winchester Skoda) advised every Kodiaq now is above 40K and all would be in the higher car tax bracket. Scary. I had no deposit either so used the equity in my car as a deposit, plus there was a contribution of £1750 from Skoda. What do I miss about my old car: I don’t drive like a hooligan but if you accelerate from a stand still quickly the wheels spin, downside of FWD rather than 4WD I suppose I miss the fake engine noise, the 1.5 TSI sounds strained upon acceleration Canton. Was very good sounding system and very bass heavy. What I don’t miss: Creaking dashboard, intermittent of course! Long runs I could achieve on average 41 MPG but that would be driving at 70MPH, if I wanted to have fun on a back road this dipped to 17 MPG New car likes: Android auto is wireless. Is a lighter car, feels lighter to drive. 2.0 TSI felt heavy and very SUV like. 1.5 TSI feel more like a hatchback. Fuel economy, after 100 miles driven this week my average is 40MPG without even trying. There are little subtle changes to the interior, steering wheel and controls. Feels more solid than my old car Easy to drive It’s RED, I love red cars and have received a few positive comments about the car already. When I was collecting the car a bloke enquired about how much it was and how the colour really ‘popped’ 5 insurance groups lower , cheaper to insure. New car dislikes: 19 inch wheel look tiny, I think there is too much space between the wheel and the body, am just nit-picking really. That’s it. I'm very pleased with my car and looking forward to driving many more miles in it.

Getting back to the subject matter... Just buy some heavy duty ones rather that thinner light duty ones and you'll be fine.

One thread is sufficient…

So had a slow puncture on the Q took it in and the tech warned me that the inner shoulder l of both tyres was very worn. Not dangerous but not far off it. Had a stern discussion with the supplying dealer which started with, “our prep records show 4.5mm across the tyre”. i sent a picture the conversation continued, “ah, very sorry about that I’ll see what can be done”. In fairness they are picking the car up next week and putting on two new Pirellis.

Must be lucky. No problems with my 2 month old octavia tech auto diesel

Best thing to do is diagnose the cause of the low compression accurately.

Skoda Favorit custom dash cluster I have also found this: https://phexsys.rajce.idnes.cz/Katalog_grafiky_-_Felicia/ Here are some other for Felicia. https://phexsys.rajce.idnes.cz/Felicia_gauges/ Do you like them?

So just a quick update on this. I have asked Skoda to go to the fleet company who had the car and get the service history for me which they have agreed to do. I’ve tried using S mode to down shift into 2nd gear when approaching junctions and/or islands and the gear responds lovely. I’ve realised that when the gearbox is in D mode and I try to apply pressure to the throttle, the lack of response seems to be because the car hasn’t down shifted quick enough as I was slowing up to the junction/island. Similarly I noticed that it wants to try and get up to 7th gear asap. Sometimes I can be steadily accelerating up to 40 and it will already be in 6th or 7th by the time I reach 40. All shifts are smooth, but it’s just something I have noticed. I also tried the “DSG resets” you can find in YouTube but to be honest it didn’t change a thing.

Just checked citigo use standard nickle plugs https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/ngk-spark-plug-zker6a-10eg-96596-5 From specs appear to have a recommended service life of 30k They only cost about £6 a plug so might as well change them Regards

Well then yes the paint is different, you now have Skoda / VW Group factory quality prep, protection, top coats, finish. 'If only everything had Mercedes quality paint' as Volkswagen never say in their adverts.

This is awesome. Looks like it's quite tight around the inlet manifold - will the original airbox fit?

You only have 16 posts on the forum so far, but I say, you ROCK! What you are trying to achieve here is on the highest difficulty level. Did you used Felicia 1.9D radiator and fan for cooling the engine?

I think who did this is very talented at electronics. I wonder, how did they converted analogue wire output of speedometer to digital with high durability?

Mine throws exactly the same error after pretty much every software update (of which there was one this week). Solved by either resetting the infotainment as you describe... or just leaving it and it works the next time. As I use CarPlay exclusively, it never bothers me. But this and the other thread about software train versions got me thinking - are there updates that only the dealer can apply, or are they all available OTA? I know with the Enyaq, they all (except relatively new ones) had to be updated by a dealer to ME3 (or something), after which they could get OTA updates...

Mine too! made back in 1977 when I was an apprentice, the cables are doubled up on each one, crappy looking Croc clips though as back then you only had the choice of what you could buy locally or liberate from work. They have never failed to pass the current though so looks can be decieving, back then things were made to work and not just look like they will.

I drove Rear Wheel Drive Automatics almost all the time when young, i preferred Mini's Austins, etc etc. then Jimnys in RWD unless AWD selected, i am driving my Shogun in RWD and the one thing you know is do not boot them early or when still turning unless you want the tail out, or to do a 360 when the surface might not provide grip. My reaction time with short RWD vehicles was never great and is worse now.

You have this now, or VW Group UK has the issue. http://www.cardealermagazine.co.uk/publish/dealers-complain-new-vw-audi-and-porsche-cars-stuck-in-huge-port-backlog/282757

Me too. Octavia. Infotainment system is very new to me. Aiming to learn one new clever thing per day!

So everything is going to have to be checked for the correct fit / tightening. The new springs might well have the car sit higher than as was. Be sure they are the correct springs, correct sitting. Dampers correct, tyres not reinflated and over inflated, if directional on the correct side. Maybe someone other than those that did the work need to cast an eye over the job.

The Atto 3 has been a sily price for a Chinese import but the sea creatures range Dolphin, Seagull etc should come in at proper prices hopefully ie closer to what they sell at in China which, in the case of the Atto 3 was almost twice what it sells for in China where as more like a quarter more should be more like the uplift of price when one add import duties and transportation cost. BYD will be looking closely at what SAIC/MG are doing and try and mimic MG's winning formula. What is a difference is that MG went for rear wheel drive but the BYDs are FWD. A big area of debate as these cars, compared to many of the small ICE car, and many European EVs, do not just have 100 to maybe 135 hp, which is a typical level of the big selling Stellantis cars as well as the big selling Zoe in most recent guise, these cars can have 200 hp plus, presents its own issues. Torn on whether its right to go back to RWD or stick with FWD as most small cars are these days unlike the 80s and before. A revolution in the small electric cars is happening where these cars are not the heavy and slowish option compared to the ICE competitors but now the EVs will be far higher performance and not that much more to buy and of course a fraction of cost to run. I can see hp limit options for insurance which when one turns 21, 23, 25 when can unlock another 50 hp, another 100 hp which will mean the insurance will rise. Insuring a TESLA can be very expensive for dual motor/performance versions. In the vein of EVs suddenly becoming the fun, and not just the ecological and cheap to run option, Europe should soon have the MF Cyberster which should hopefully well less than £40k with current massive drops in battery pack costs. The MGF reborn for the new century ?

11.95 is fine given that the OP has simply opened the bonnet and measured it without going through the tedious routine of foooling the ECU that the car is still closed and locked after 20 minutes, the Can gateway and several controllers will still be active dropping the voltage to below 12v. The magnitude of the current can be judged by the massive spark you get when you first connect the battery terminals. The OP should be checking the battery terminals, earth lead and starter connections as it sounds like there is excessive volt drop to the ECU and Can controllers on start up.

So you repeatedly keep telling me over and over and over . . . Yet you agreed with the other sour complainant on here, when he was proved wrong about something else I put, when he wrote "right and wrong is for vicars and tarts", you seem to want it both ways or more accurately what suits you. As the other bitter and twister poster put - "Stick it up on Moneysupermarket then".

It won't be the battery. Just swap the bulbs over left to right and make sure the contacts are clean. You'll only have one fog light on the drivers side at the back that is activated but the factory fit bulbs to both light units so you effectively already have a replacement spare. Even if the filament looks fine and is working it could be that it's starting to fail and the resistance is increasing which is enough to flag the error message

Hi, welcome. I've had a check a brake light and I could find nothing wrong but I might have change the bulb anyway (I forget)I and sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the socket and wire loom connectors, Then another time I noticed one of the (incandescent) daylight running lights was dimmer than the other then forgot about it as I rarely drive my wife's car, it took the car's computer a week to put up a warning by which time the bulb had gone the blackest I've ever seen a bulb so certainly there was some fault somewhere. The car's VW computer can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues if the car battery is too low for it, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning symbols or messages. This might not be the reason for your issue now but if the battery is low(ish), say below 12.2V/12.3V then fully recharge it just in case, an appropriate battery charger and maintainer is the best way to ensure the battery is fully charged (see 'Owner's Manual' for more details). My advice, for what it's worth, is If your battery is low then just charge it up fully and see if the message returns, if the battery is OK then change the bulb (and clean socket and connectors) as it might just be the vibrations from driving upsetting the bulb, many modern made bulbs are poorly made so replace it with a better made one if necessary. You may be able to see if the bulb is a factory fitted one if it has a date on it. You could also post in the Octavia MK3 forum to see if this is a common problem with the model or not. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ Closing advice - don't let the car battery get too low for the computers or they will make you suffer and if you read and before even doing simple jobs, like changing a bulb, refer to the 'Owner's Manual' you will know more about your model than many long term owners and some at garages and Dealerships. If you've not got a paper printed copy you can download a free VWSkoda pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Some software updates perhaps from here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ And perhaps any admitted (so few) Recall actions from here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns HTH.

Maps update OTA as and when required.

Wot's complicated about an AZQ? Definitely worth investigating the cause before risking a second hand engine. 130k miles does not necessarily mean knackered. Mine was going strong at 160k with no oil usage between services, before I sold the car. Good luck.

These are a bit general and cover Fixed Service Interval Servicing. A bit of a guide though.

I've used lemforder. They seemed pretty much same dimension wise as oem as far as I can tell. Although, when you've had struts off and reassemble and drop car back down it does take a short drive to get everything to sit back down normally. The repair version of the part comes with the bearing and the topmount which is what you want.

Skoda Main Dealership staff or Skoda UK's Customer Services Contractor can or should be able to tell you what RECALL there was on your car. I suspect it was a Service Campaign or Recall Action, or a TPI covered something. Pretty sure your car was not part of the Defeat Device Voluntary Recall but there were some cars that then got some sort of Software / Engine Management Skoda Secret Service sort out an emissions issue, 'don't ask we do not know type thing'. Loose lips can kill, on a need to know & VW decide owners need not know! http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

@tootyou've been a great help so far. Just to pick your brains a bit more, I think I know the answer, but would you recommend a main deal or an independent specialist. Also, wheres the best place to get service information? I.e dates/miles, what needs doing when. Generally I've just had annual services, everything changed (all filters, oil and plugs) I'd like to try keep on top of this the best I can. Cheers

Take a look at this thread from a couple of years ago. Not the official wireless charger but a few options discussed that would fit in the centre console near the USB-C ports

Yes I read about this new Fleet version of the Model 3 which would, initially, just be sold to "fleet" and I presume that could mean salary sacrifice systems like Octopus is running. Expect to be released sooner after Fleet release especially if sales are not massive due to recession across Europe. As long as TELSA squeezes out most sales by those older mainly ICE selling manufacturers so TESLA hastens their demise to bankruptcy then it is job done even if profits are lower for a while. I think the model 2 can be bought forward to late 2024 now that much cheaper sodium and cheaper lithium batteries are happening due to the big drop in lithium prices and cheapness of sodium making a $25K small TESLA possible ie 22k Euros and £20k price point.

These are all things I need to discuss when they've got the vehicle there @Toots. I've already told him if there's any decent dents, scratches, scrapes, I wonna know about them before I even consider going to see it in person. On the walk around video, I want him to focus on wheels/tires, and brakes

Like looking for a needle in a haystack I would have thought. You really have got to stop trotting out this nonsense.

Can't see that little pipe listed either but any vacuum pipe that will fit would be fine.

Goes to the stub on the side of the EGR, via a flexible rubber hose that pushes onto a spigot just near the serpent mouth end of the narrow one in your pic.

I may be wrong, but I think I can see a tip of the LH paddle in the 1st image posted. I don't recall if paddles were standard fit on a VRS - but likely.

I guess you mean the narrow one, not the fat serpent? Isn't it a filtered feed to the EGR valve?

a long overdue update, but I wanted to drive the car to the limit before reporting back. So as said above, I had KW V3's on order and they got fitted on 16th March. Following just over 1000 miles of daily, touring and fast road driving I can report back with the following............ THEY ARE BLOODY BRILLIANT!!!!!! This addition to the car has just made it drive how I have always wanted it to. I am glad I had the rear ARB fitted, albeit accidentally, first so I was able to feel how that made the car feel, and I've now been able to experience how the coilovers are. First, the car has been lowered by approximately 25mm. As you'll see from the below pics, we can see it's lowered, but I doesn't look slammed by any means. I haven't needed to drive any different since lowering because I didn't want to have to creep over speed bumps, or worry about going up a multi story car park. Body roll has virtually gone. Taking it for a 'razz' and you're able to confidently take a bit of speed into a corner. I've added a bit more bump to the rear so it's not wanting to lurch back when accelerating, but I've kept it standard on the front. With it being corner weighted, the car just feels more agile and with the remap, it's comfortably able to dart out of a corner. I used to think the Michelin tyre were good anyway, but they're come into their own now. I went 4 up on a trip to Snowdonia and whilst the rear dropped a little bit, the car still felt ready to go. There is only one thing which you do notice that little bit more and that's the road imperfections. The standard VRS suspension does deal with the bumps good, but the KW's don't appreciate them. Whilst don't aim for them, I do find myself scanning the road a bit more any potholes or broken tarmac. All in all, I am made up with all which I have done to my car in the past few months and here's to being able to get even more from my car

I've just had the timing belt replaced on my wife's Citigo ( 2013 model with 36,000 miles ) and asked my local independent garage for the bits that they took off. I had inspected it a few weeks ago and it looked perfect - no gaps between belt and pulley teeth and no fraying, etc. The work was done as the car was 10 years old and local Skoda dealers recommended every 5 years, independent of mileage (which is a bit odd) I knew they were original parts because we bought it at one year old with 16,000 miles (an ex-hire company car) The original belt was in excellent condition - no visible wear on the teeth (tested by pressing the belt onto itself so the teeth engaged with each other) or signs of fraying. splitting, etc. I recall my old faithful VW Passat B2 1.8 litre showed small gaps between pulley and belt teeth - but that was at 175,000 miles and umpteen cambelt changes. The tensioner and idler pulleys were also in fine fettle - not loose, rough or rattly - just smooth with a slight tightness to indicate that the bearings were largely unworn and lubricated. The charge was £454, of which £180 was labour - a lot of money for something I used to do myself, but I suppose that is the cost for peace of mind ?

Mk2 vRS Fabia that do not have optional Bluetooth still have the TPMS.

The legal requirement is to always overread but by no more than 10%, so manufacturers try to get a vehicle to overread by around 5-7% when on brand new OE size tyres to allow for wear and tolerances.

Fan is definitely stationary, think it’s a crap video! It’s the same when the engine is running after a 40min drive (20mins motorway and then 20mins stop/start traffic), it’s not moving.

Never rule out a fault with a tyres or even someone having put in tyre weld on gunk and it forming a ball of rubber that tumbles around in the tyre. I have a T-shirt for that one.

Further to my comments on size, I've checked out the actual dimensions. This car is a FOOT longer than an ID.4, which is not a small car. When the estate version arrives, I expect it will be longer still. Neither the sedan or estate will fit on my drive with another car parked. This is truly limousine type length and probably not needed for most families. I was vaguely interested as an estate version is promised, but not at this size, and most likely price. Now the new 50% more efficient drive train in my ID.4 might be a game changer though.... hopeful that will come with an ID.4 revamp. Unless VW come up with an ID.3 / Golf EV estate. Its going to be interesting to see who buys the ID.7.

IMHO this is too big. People say its will appeal to Passat owners, its much bigger. It will turn out to be another Phaeton, great car for a market that doesn't exist. Put the fancy new drive train into the ID.3 and sell millions. Build something smaller VW.

They are in the main OK. Far better on a 1.0 / 1.2 TSI than on some others. OK with 1.4 TSI Octavia. Not that reliable with a 1.6 TDI, IMO & IME. There was and is no fix. There was a World Wide Recall 2012 on DQ200's 2009-2012, this excluded Europe that got a Service Campaign in 2014. '34F7'. Change Synthetic oil to Mineral & a Software update. So 2013-2015 interests you. Service Campaign '34H5' a Software Update started 2017 on some cars, 2013-2015. this was a preventative campaign because of pressure / heat issues. Then 2015 on there were TPI's clutch upgrades and software updates for some. Then some with MCU issues from that time. From 2018/19 they are better, we will see how they are at 5 year old when they get to 5 years old.

Hi All, Time for battery change? After long time search on web, things come clear gladly to Continental tech description: Absorbed Glass Matt AGM = Absorbed Glass Fleece AGF https://www.continental-aftermarket.com/en-en/products/spare-partsrepair-parts/batteries/agm-battery The option BinaryAGM seems to be used if there available)) but think for high performance with spiral-wound AGM. OEM was black battery from Varta but codet as JCI - JCB 68Ah Fleece and not VA0, but well nevermind what names they sell for assembly Replaced with: EXIDE EK700 coded initially as Fleece 70Ah TU3 But then for test did change technologyto BinaryAGM, and the 96% charged battery as Fleece was now showing 82% charge with BinaryAGM. * While charging voltage was kept in range 13.6-14.2V for both cases. It's known this exact battery EK700 can handle about 7-10% over the values on the sticker, means in fact it handle true 75Ah, that's shown by different tests. This means having programmed as BinaryAGM a normal AGM battery(not top brand) can result to be charged at maximum all time or mostly if daily route is over 50km, which not good as not allowing time to be discharged a bit, unless leave with music periodically, while for EK700 or similar good branded it maybe wont cause any damage. And that's why many people saying to have any of this two type coded and no one see issues, because depends in short time not but after couple years the capacity may be affected if not right setup for drive mode etc... So an adwise for those who having short routes, check periodically your battery and if measurements shows battery constantly not charged c.a. 80% or less, and never 90/100% , is maybe a good idea to have it setup to BinaryAGM this in fact will show less charge % but real battery will be better charged, as the logic for generator is slightly different allowing faster and higher charger. Again, setup as Fleece is good by default nothing worse, but think BinaryAGM still accepted in two scenarios, when long daily routes only with some TOP of the normal AGM batteries on the market (as those having a bit over reserve which positioning as high power delivery as an spiral-wound AGM), and second scenario is when daily short routes not allowing your AGM being charged 90-100%. Hope that helps to put clearance on this subject.

So good explained ! Once again thanks making this available. But as you mentioned, there's missing exact info on the logic how/when the DCC controller will register the middle position after lifted recalibration. I mean when the car is being lifted back to the ground the suspension teke a letter V position for the thres, and the rubber doesn't allow the car to be fully standing in the ground for about 1-2cm untill we roll it a bit front back, or drive. So there possible theories for the DCC controller storing new data: 1. After calibration will measure a medium for the middle position in couple cycles while driving 2. After calibration, the unit activate time dependency controller on which the car must be deiven for a while 3. The values are stored once on the moment when lowerd down and the middle point is reached, !! If that is the case then bad news, as mentioned above the suspension will not fully stand, shich means then that calibration must be done not with full leveled suspension but a bit before when wheels(tyres) are still 90 degrees angle to the ground, that also persume to have logic because by manufacturing full extended shock absorber is to be avoided for damage, plus no body drives with full extended suspension till wheel on the air not even on broken streets, but with maximum extended suspension and wheels still touching ground I don't have a lift available for free, else I could test the logic and see if differences while driving. Hope is interesting and someone can consider this logic, or maybe dealer friend can say the secret 🤗 And then one more open question, bit other subject but related: - how exactly the wheel must be aligned? Mean, my car could not be aligned many multibrand shops, even having respected tyre pressure, fuel tank full, no extra loads etc..., the open question is as they positioning the steering and taking measured with engine turned off, which is wrong, because electro servomotor for steering hydraulics, and the gas/oil compression made by internal electric valve on the shockabsorbers, assume that having this with and without power will give different results, because again we will not drive with powersteering off and DCC valves disconnected, I'm bit right or not?

Did completed re-calibration today. So here long feedback comes. It was required because packed totally new OEM DCC set (shock absorbers, coil springs, repair mounting kit, anti roll bar links and bushes) that becuase fabric ones dead with oil blow after c.a. 150000km.... recommend using comfort mode moderately or not at high speed to avoid drastic drops... Is what mechanic said🤷‍♂️ Also found interesting thing, the % values in Adaptation: Adapting with deflected wheels, are stored fixed, logic not(?))), but how Understood that, was to measure them 4 time, with and without adapted - while leveled up and standing. (Attached pics) That values are stored as base, which will reflect on power delivery adjustment when changing different DCC modes, this can be checked while running live test with sensors and drive. Seems like rear right use default values making others reflect on it, maybe because fuel tank position, that sensor also shows available while others not possible in live data info, and it will not change after recalibration, or different way stored or somthing still to learn. So, after adaptation, already made couple hundred km on highway, as well urban routes, same day))).. There is difference YES even with OEM new pack, but many people saying/thinking see no issue no need to, so it's a big big miss if use low spring and not recalibrate !!! As you can see on pics small % diferences but it results in more clearance and soft Comfort mode, while Normal mode has much predictions mean becomes ideal option, for the Sport gained even more hardness controll. After discussion with dealer, they communicated that DCC calibration must be completed after any suspension works, and no way to use it without because reflects on wheel alignment (front / rear), ACC and lights too, all together to be adjusted, not cheap at all, but then you get the right feeling. The DCC recalibration may be required twice, because when aligning steering/wheels the arms will push a bit the whole construction at least on rear side, so it's a complex procedure of couple hours, then having wheel aligned and DCC calibrated, it's time to proceed with beam lights and ACC adjustment. Good if found a shop with all tools, else run across city, usually only dealer will have all this at one place.