Leaderboard

Hello Well after about 1000 km with the Octavia I already have some comments The engine has enough power and consumption as approved by the brand here in Chile, which if I find that it is a little difficult to take off in first gear, I come from a 110 HP fabia mk3 1.0 TSI, and in first gear it was happier . Something that I found exquisite was the good soundproofing of the engine and good thrust from second gear, the isolation of the engine is so well achieved that it is not even noticeable when the start/stop is activated or when you release the clutch. The interior is spacious, a complete family can easily fit without problems, very good space in the rear seat and the trunk is huge 600lt, and with air conditioning outlets in the rear seats. It has very acceptable quality in front of the doors, dashboard, behind and the quality is low as typical VAG, one thing that surprised me is that almost all the compartments in the front up to the bottle holders are lined in a fabric to prevent things from rattling Things that do not enlarge me, the air conditioning all on the screen is somewhat difficult to get used to, yes, but it is not ideal for when you go on the road, Apple CarPlay or Android auto that is not seen in full screen, I feel that I can take better advantage of the screen, and some very minimal crickets inside but it is already something usual in VAG but in this case it is not so much it is "acceptable" Well, the best thing to highlight is definitely the comfort of the car, it is the best it has, the good profile of the "205/55 r17" tires and the suspension do an excellent job eating up the imperfections of the road, on the road it is plumb although something that What caught my attention is that it has a lot of tire noise, what happens through the door, since in the city the car feels quite soundproof. A favorable point that I did not expect is the sound that the car brings sounds quite good, the one that is sold here in Chile is not signed by any brand, My old Fabia had a sound that had to be installed with a third party that sounded quite powerful, and incredibly the octavia sounds much better despite being from the factory, it has good bass and excellent quality, according to the file it has 8 speakers, one of them in the center of the dashboard that makes the sound surround you. The car has much more to tell but as I experience them I will tell. Here is a video of a POV that I did.

Just received, out of the blue, the updated lease documents for signing. Glad we stuck to the order, in terms of cost it's a good deal and a damn sight cheaper than most other leases now available. Car is: Brilliant Silver OCTAVIA Estate 1.4TSI IV SE L DSG (Hybrid) Ordered: Sep 21 UK Registration date: 29/05/23 Delivery should be at the beginning of next month barring any delays.

Wow!! Enlightening…

The OP does say they were on a little bark/mud having turned quickly right for the corner. Anyone can get it wrong on corners on gravel or mud or cow sh!te or what ever. Especially so if not paying attention.

Why not bring back Sinclaire ZX81 Just testing the age range here Joe

Felica 1.3 had already made a space for 2 speakes in the central console. https://nemigaparts.com/img/catalogs/etka/st/101863500.png https://m1.secondhandapp.at/2.0/5b27b219ccf1ea406c3fa31e?height=1024&width=1024 Even for the 1.6 can be found. https://www.megaparts.eu/en/product/228925056#gallery

For those who have been experiencing the annoying "Travel Assist Unavailable" warning and the quite persistent loud bonging warning sound, a fix to this fault appears to have arrived. I had my vehicle undergo a new software update at the local Skoda dealer yesterday. Previously, Skoda were changing out the whole steering wheel in an attempt to fix the problem, but have now landed on a much quicker and less obtrusive software fix and have issued a general Service Recall. Took only 20 minutes (barely had time to finish my cappuccino in the dealer showroom). So far, no more warnings or bonging sounds, so looks like it's done the trick.

It's being reported on Honda forum (link below), April 2023. I've also seen it on other owners forums, I'll have a search tomorrow. Remember though, many owners just use their phones as hotspots and therefore don't know of the problem !!! https://www.hondacivicforum.co.uk/threads/2015-civic-1-8-ex-traffic-alert-and-detour-stopped-working.86586/

Spotted this little chap this evening.....

Put some anti-slip matting over it, tuck in at the ends and no one will know the difference.

Not that expensive, I'd just change them if it was me.

Lift off oversteer combined with a slimy road is my guess.

Interesting upgrade, but not for all drivers… I saw a guy locking his kessy equiped Audi Q2 few years ago. He touched the driver handle to lock it and wanted to check with rear handle but reopened his Q2, then relocked the car with driver handle and checked again with rear handle but opened again… I saw the guy getting nerved. He repeated this 5-6 times before letting the thing down, still nerved! 😂 Definitely not for owners suffering from Obsessive Compulsive Disorder…😂

Lock motor is inside the lock module.

Thanks mate. I'll keep you all updated ☺️

I am so very sorry to hear this and wish you well as soon as possible. I am just back from not walking with my cat as it was too busy for him.

Same sort of warnings as the page 78 of the other Handbook, at least you don't have any message so if hopefully it is just the filter then a good enough outcome. As has been suggested if you can just change the filter then that seems the easiest and least expensive thing to try especially if you don't really lose any oil doing so as the garages you've been to seem not interested. Good luck.

Thanks both, really helpful!

I managed to press the control arm further onto the bush and with a bit of wiggling managed to get it into p+lace. Thanks for the suggestion......

All 1.0 TSI will have a DQ200 DSG if they have a DSG. Really not anything to worry about. Well yes earlier issues have been addressed, we never know how those are after 5 years until 5 years on, so that is from now with a 2018. Still i would buy one with a DQ200. As for with a GPF which you have with a 2018 1.0 TSI, well we will get to know how they are after 5 or 6 years. So far so good, or not many stories of bad. I reckon you will be fine if you get a good car. So service history. Spark Plugs replaced by now, the cam belt replacement is due according to Skoda, so do you want one already done, or are you not bothered and you will leave that expense for a year or 3 and you will pay for that? If buying a Skoda Approved Used Car with a Skoda Warranty then it should be serviced to the Manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendations, Schedule / Spec. That means the Cam Belt should be replaced at 5 years. Sauce for the Goose, sauce for the gander. Fairs fair with Skoda / VW / Dealers. The write the rules. Buying from others, car supermarkets etc, then know what servicing should be done and if a Service History or FMDSH, then what was actually done.

@Breezy_Pete Yes, perhaps the driver's side has been replaced. We only know the history of the last 5 years. Will update once I have finished soldering ....

Yes, there's a version of CCU that can be swapped in to upgrade to factory type remote central locking. Bit more to it than just that. Not sure if there's a 'how to' thread on here, but there certainly is on clubpolo.

Each door lock contains a small dc motor. The connections are reversible within the central convenience control unit so that it can lock, or unlock each. If either wire is broken, the motor cannot be driven from central command any more, so the lock can only by turned by key, mechanically. I think your symptoms are consistent with at least one of these motor wires being broken on each side.

Sinclair ! ZX81 (playing ball...)

Any chance there was a diesel spill on the corner?

Different bags, different header tanks, different TDI's and different manufacturing line at different periods in time. Different difficulties and high expense to those that sadly had failures.

Either, nothing to choose between them but LUK tends to be the easiest to get and tends to be cheaper.

First thing I'd do is ditch the gel and buy a spare wheel. Looking a the endless stream of carcasses minus their sidewalls alongside the motorway, a tin of gel won't be getting you anywhere.

I refloat the thread, because my rear special assets are making noise at low speed on small bumps. It is really annoying. And lately if I go down the ramp of the parking lot faster, even the front lights sound. I have read a thread on Drive.ru in which it says that it is due to a bad design of the shock absorber rod since it does not fit well with the support and ends up deforming it as it is made of aluminum. Unfortunately, I think that as soon as possible I will have to change them and put Sachs or Bilstein B6, it depends on the waiting list. I quote @markyG82 because I think we are having the same bad feelings with the Koni and that it shows that their marketing department is much better than their engineering department.

According to the manual the MFD shows: STOP OIL PRESS. ENGINE OFF! OWNER'S MANUAL! if the oil pressure is low, accompanied with an audible alarm.

TDI VRS, Front wheel drive. Boot couple small bits in and car seats in rear. Tyres Goodyear 225 40 18, new tyres within couple months so good tread!

I had a set fitted to my ol' Fabby, which I got for the cost of postage from this forum, many years ago... They were supposedly genuine Skoda parts and are a lighter tint then Heko's, which I have on a MK 1 Yaris. Like Heko's, they fit inside the window rubber and are not mounted externally, which looks naff unless on a larger vehicle. I also think a company called Climbair make them but they are quite expensive, whereby Heko are fairly reasonable. Again, there is a company called I-Speed, so there are a few brands to think about. Personally, I'd buy Heko or genuine.

Simple enough as only the driver knows how they use their car standard or remapped to try different fuels and see if you feel any difference in smoothness / efficiency or economy. & take into account they can change by season or area of the UK. They will meet the Minimum Octane on the pump though.

Had my 2018 Executive for 11 months now (June 2022) Bought from and booked in to main dealer for service/MOT end of the May. Also getting a bit concerned about Silica bag,, considering getting them to change header tank when service is getting done. Thinking about a service plan as it includes warranty and recovery. But although my dealer seems ok, and sorted out the only problem I had with it under the warranty, there doesn't seem to be much enthusiasm from forum members for main dealers.

Yeah, it's a metal cam with a thin coating of plastic which gets shredded by the microswitch button. I stripped the plastic off my cam, so my replacement microswitch just runs on the metal of the cam, but I grease it with silicone grease every now and then through the door latch hole. Still working ten years later. Relacement switch I used was a Burgess V4NSUL.

Yes, entirely normal. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/370297-how-does-your-engine-sit/

Sent via PM

That stereo is from an older era because it has CD tray. I don't know that particular Sony car stereo, but if it sounds superior compared to today's generic brand, huge touch screen models, there is a possibility, @vucko1011 may be an audiophile and they value sound quality over touch screens etc. All you need is that AUX input. You connect your phone or any other music player via 3.5mm jack and you are good to go. If there is another input at the back side of that stereo unit, (usually they are red/white RCA jacks) one can build a RCA to female 3.5mm surface mount jack to hide that cable in the front of the stereo, but when you install your phone to that 3.5mm jack there will be a visible cable again somewhere else. High quality server fans have miniature double ball bearings. They are very durable. If they are not loud like @Papez stated above, you have a good solution.

I highly recommend the "Superb Ghost" lights from Kopacek as they add a nice touch, without loosing any shine on to the ground.

Finally had a reply from "Skoda auto" they are aware of the issue and will reply. At least they have admitted the issue, unlike RRG and Lookers

As much as I can see on the picture you need to press the control arm more into the rubber pivot bush. It is not seated all the way in.

PAS pump is a brushless AC motor so it relies upon chopper circuitry to provide the necessary square wave signal to drive the motor, it is this circuitry that usually starts to fail rather than the motor itself, often due to internal condensation build up due to imperfect sealing.

Tired of your can of Red Bull not being stable in the centre console cup holder? Fear not, you can now 3D print an adapter 🙂 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5996096

If it's the 2014 1.2TSi surely it's the chain driven 4 cylinder? There could be a problem with one plug lead, some can break down, can't remember which. Have you took the cover off and checked all leads?

Car back, picked up and collected by salesman. Two new tyres, car checked for a tremor at higher speed. All 4 wheel balanced car tested with promise that appears to be sorted. Plenty of comms from salesman and service manager. Ok not the perfect start to new car ownership but I'll give credit to the dealer for handling the problem well.

The steering wheel wiggle at junctions keeps or starts the engine. That for me at least has smoothed out the stop start, auto box ready to go. dsg is very smooth really. Occasionally find it dropping down or going up mid corner. So if I’m after enjoying the wiggly bits, I to it over to manual. those are my top two.

Dear experts, I'm also looking for latest firmware update. Having currently version 0475 (MIB2 Amundsen in an Octavia III) - see attached picture for details. Background: I tried out a sw update with a wrong source and the update failed. Since that time I get every 10, 15 or sometimes 20 minutes a strange notification sound during driving. I don't know what triggers this and couldn't find any reason. It sounds like a message notification sound and I don't know how to get rid of it. My hope is that an update to latest firmware version could fix this. Or any other idea or proposal? Would be really happy to get rid of this nasty thing... Thanks a lot in advance for any help!

I have been repairing my punctures with tyre plugs for 18 years now, never had one fail, all the tyres have continued to wear to the legal limit like the others before replacement and have never been an issue at the CT tests. They do stick out a bit or at least become more visible as the tyre wears, the only time it was ever a problem was when I sold a car and the new owner, a Brit who knew nothing of the regulations or life in France after 2 decades was outraged to find it. I would say conservatively I have avoided replacing 10 tyres because most tyre fitting garages here come out with the nonsense that they are not allowed to do puncture repairs and that they have to replace both tyres on the same axle. The Yeti not having a spare wheel my tyre plug kit is even more important to me than ever, I also have a mushroom plug insertion tool kit but have yet to use it, unless the puncture is on the outside edge of a front wheel giving enough room on full lock to use the tool the wheel will have to be removed, the tyre plugs can be used with the wheel in place, my intention is to use them on the road then remove the wheel and make a repair with the mushroom plug. I started using plugs after paying a garagiste friend for a tyre repair, it took him all of 30 seconds and he only lost a tiny amount of air from the tyre in doing so. If you prepare the plug on the skewer needle and fit the rasp in a battery drill in advance you can then swiftly pull out the screw or nail, insert the rasp and prepare the hole then pull out with one hand while inserting the plug with the other then pull the skewer out which cuts through the doubled up plug sealing the hole, you lose only a tiny bit of air it does not even register on the pressure guage. Easier to do swiftly with the wheel off the vehicle. Did you know that tubeless tyres were originally sold as self sealing for punctures? I read the claims in a 1960's Readers Digest, the problem then as now with tubed tyres is that when they puncture there is an instantaneous total deflation which at speed causes loss of control and often the tyre to come off the rim, a puncture on a tubeless tyre is much slower and controlled, they demonstrated it by driving 2 vehicles with tubed and tubeless tyres over planks with 6" nails sticking out, the car on tubed tyres spun and rolled over , the other came to a controlled halt like you see on footage of a Police Stinger deployment but much slower and with full control.

My car came with a $6500 Premium Package that included many features including DCC, Heads-up Display and Drive Mode Selection I cared for and "Premium German Canton sound system (12 loudspeakers, digital equalizer)" and others which I was indifferent to. I had never even heard of Canton. And my 70 year-old ears have seen better days so I am not that picky about sound - so long as there is enough treble to compensate for my loss of high frequency response. Anyway I am quite happy with the Canton sound system although I never use the equalizer, cannot detect the sub-woofer and never turn the volume up past 50%. And the sound sources I use are either DAB or Youtube Music so probably not the highest of fi! I don't think I would have ticked a box to pay $AUS 1500 or whatever is the equivalent of what you guys paid just to get the slight sound improvement over our 6-speaker VW Golf Alltrack. Just as I would be very disappointed to have paid specifically for the crap voice control, or the almost crap SatNav, or the Park Assist and Lane Assist that I dare not use, or the automatic Matrix LED lights that people still flash me for, or the ability to customize the ambient lighting. Nor would I pay for the 19 inch low-profile wheels that it comes with. Would be happier with 18 or even 17 and any of the available wheel designs. Less road noise and cheaper to replace. On the other hand I would trade all of those for a return to buttons and knobs and straight-forward menus and instant starts and reliable operation and no need to reboot the system to restore functionality. At least it is so nice to actually drive.

2000 or so miles done on mine. Currently enjoying switchbacks in the Alps😁. No issues. Original plastic end thingies.