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Wow, a whole six months since the last update. I still have it, and I'll be sharing some decent updates in the next week or so. The Fabia is hopefully going off to have a running in map by the tuner some point next week, after that it can be brought home, MOT booked and then wheel alignment. Then I can start the running in process..... knowing me that'll take another 6 years. The plan is to use it to attend some local shows/meets over the summer, and then it'll come off the road again over Autumn/Winter. Pictures soon. Promise.

Clumber Park this evening............

If anyone ever wonders, yes you can wash your Octavias keys in the loundry machine. 30C is fine with centrifuge, just leave it in the jacket pocket

That would leave MIB1, MIB2 and MIB2.5 owners without traffic data on the inbuilt sat nav, not only is this unexpected loss of a service without prior notification to all owners but is also an environmental issue as that means we could end up in traffic jams causing extra pollution that could have been avoided if TMC was still available.

Happy as Larry. Actually pleased to get the car back. Valeted. It was Park lock finger acctuator replaced. Also drop links replaced. Car drives great. There are a few changes on the information and car settings I need to check. It is on a 7kW public charger now but not showing a charging speed in the car but it is on the phone. I will see when I get back and start a charge again. Drive great and finally no knocking. Tighter steering in Sport. For now I will extend the warranty until maybe something I fancy becomes available. If there are any problems it will go back in August. Mot will be done in June or July when Motability ask it to be done.

There are two TMC providers in the UK: - INRIX who broadcast via Classic FM - Trafficmaster who broadcast on various local/regional stations VAG use Trafficmaster for TMC over FM in the UK which has now been turned off. They haven't got the licence to use INRIX afaik... VAG need to decide where they want to get TMC data from and then roll out an update to switch to it. This may involve paying INRIX for their service or switching to TMC/TPEG over DAB but it's down to VAG Once they've decided, it might be possible via a map update to switch over but I'm not sure...

Some pics of Gandalf after a morning run.....

Nearly a month and what has happened? Hmmmmm... Droplinks broke! Both sides. Fun. I've replaced one side so far, other side hasn't been done yet. 20230425_135856.mp4 In further news, my driver's side window regulator decided it didn't want to regulate windows anymore, leaving my window completely down. Many black bags later it was whole again, and then as of today, it's now repaired... "professionally" (by me and my Granda). Furthermore, I've chav specced the car with a tasteful* sunstrip. Meh, I like it, it has practical uses. At least it doesn't have mine and the other half I don't have's names on it... Further to that, been sorting out niggles with the car, which included a replacement engine cover, mirror glass, and fitting a spring into the fuel cap! Oh aye, and before I forget, the P0171 issue has been cured! Turns out I'd had the wrong fuel filter on the car, as it was the three bar one (as fitted by the garage), and not the correct four bar filter. 49mpg is doable if I behave. So here is the car as it stands now, I'm really pleased with how it's coming along, never done, of course. However, I am content with where things are at now.

I got a call yesterday that my car finally arrived. I can pick it up in the next 1-2 weeks. My last information in March was that the planned arrival is May, and I had no further information until the yesterday call. vRS Hatch petrol ordered in Dec 2021. I update the spreadsheet.

Last week I retrofitted a VC to my Superb 2.0 tdi MY18. Because the info on this subject is scattered all over this and other forums I decided to bundle it into a how-to. First of all a big thank you to RomanB, langers2k, Richie2019 and Camarao69 for the help with coding and with finding the correct parts. Before you start, make sure your car is able to do the retrofit. As I understand it, you will need a Mib 2.5 and also the correct gateway to be able to have a map display in the VC. If the part number of your gateway starts with 3Q0 it should work. Maybe also with other part numbers, but you will have to check. You can check the part number of your gateway with VCDS. What about Amundsen? I have read that with certain types of Amundsen it should also be able to show maps on VC. But coding is a bit different. And, as I don’t have Amundsen, I can’t really tell. I ordered the VC on ali: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001320853346.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 This VC comes with the optical MOST cable you will need for display of maps on the VC. Before you order, send the seller a message and ask for a discount. Also ask for him to declare a lower value (+/- 100 dollar) to customs. I paid around 60 euro import tax based on this value. If you have the CANTON sound system, you will need a Most splitter. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001590588805.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 Or https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33003652246.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dysj90l (about the MOST splitters: I ordered both, but you will only need one of them. The first link looked like the better quality item, but it had 2 male connectors and 1 female. What you need is 1 male and 2 female connectors. The VC came with a spare female connector, so I used this spare connector to convert the splitter into 1 male and 2 female. It’s easy, just mind the arrows on the connector. They depict the data stream direction. The item from the second link is ready to be installed and does not need to changed. However just eyeballing it, it did not look as good as the one in the first link.) Vag audio removal tools: You need 4 pieces. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001502327510.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61f03aa8VhZ892&algo_pvid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254&algo_expid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254-0&btsid=0bb0624716157231348261767efc60&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Trim removal tools: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32963954415.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.477d61553u3Dn4&algo_pvid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc&algo_expid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc-0&btsid=0bb0623d16157232258103800e5d6b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ And a Vas5054a for pairing the keys to the cluster via remote coding. Links to a Vas5054a come and go. They don’t work for long. Look on ali and read the reviews. Disregard complaints about the software as you will not need to install it. Often there are choices in quality. Choose the best one available. Bluetooth is not necessary, I just used a usb cable. And you will also need a windows laptop. I also ordered a screen protector for the mib 2.5 and for the VC. Just to protect them while do the installation: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32931529165.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p and https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001805982326.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p And of course you will also need a VCDS-cable or a similar device. Wait until the parts arrive and, in the meantime, find an online coding service for pairing the keys to new cluster, remove component protection and to set the odometer to the correct setting. I used: Vag retrofit and Coding. Telegram: https://t.me/vagretrofit Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vagretrofitcoding/ Cost: 75 euro for 2 keys and 100 euro for 3 keys. Maybe there are cheaper/better alternatives, but this worked for me. The VAS 5054a comes with software. You do not have to install this software for use with a online coding service. You will only need to install TeamViewer. Before you start tinkering: Make an autoscan with VCDS and save the log to your computer. This saved my ass, because after the online coding of the VC, my sunroof lost it’s coding. With the autoscan available it was easy to fix. I also made screenshots from every byte of my old cluster, using the long coding helper (example, of just one byte, below) With this, it’s easier to setup the VC. See the service manual how to unclip the various trim parts. There is a certain sequence in releasing the clips. Before I used the online coding service, I installed the MOST cable. It was a pain. The wires behind the Mib unit in the glovebox were too short. So I needed to dismount the entire glovebox to get access.I connected the MOST splitter to the existing MOST cable and the new MOST cable. Removed the Mib headunit and old cluster to pull the new MOST cable in place. If you don’t have CANTON there may be a protective cover over the MOST connector on the Mib. After you have pulled the MOST cable into position, reconnect your Mib headunit. It needs to be connected while the online coding is being done. This it to remove component protection. Also reconnect your old cluster. You will need it connected at the start of online coding. I also tested my audio, just to be sure it was working after the MOST splitter install. A video which gives an idea how to remove the cluster: (the screws are behind the left and right trim parts. Not under the center one) A picture from pulling the cable: After all this you can start with the online coding process. Have all you keys readily available. It took 2 full hours in my case. When you install the VC, make sure to remove the grey protector in the MOST connector on the VC: After the online coding you can start your car, but your dash will light up with faults because of the lack of coding. Coding the cluster: I now took all my screenshots of the long coding from my old cluster to code the VC. Just one note: Leave Byte 0 bit 1 unchecked. It will give an ‘’entry out of range” error message if you try to code it. After you coded everything in, the error messages will disappear. Just take caution with your fuel gauge and make sure it is accurate so you don’t run out of fuel. My fuel gauge tends to read fuller than with the old cluster so I don’t trust it yet and may change the coding on it. Coding 5F (mib): Long coding: Uncheck byte 22 bit 0: Make sure MOST is on (for non CANTON cars) Byte 19 bit 5 Adaptation (5F): For imaging through MOST: - ENG122230-ENG142097-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-ability_switch_nav_maps,OFF - ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture,On - ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart,On - ENG122230-ENG122340-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122344-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127006-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG142153-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-dynamic_icon,0 - ENG122230-ENG127501-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-fastlist_most,On - ENG122230-ENG122338-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122339-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127005-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart,On For the Virtual Cockpit menu on the MIB: - IDE11524-ENG137043-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45, Activated - IDE11524-ENG137044-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45_msg_bus, Comfort data bus - ENG122227-ENG142087-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142088-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_clamp_15_off, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142089-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_over_threshold_high, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142090-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_standstill, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142091-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_after_disclaimer, Not Activated Now restart the MIB. (hold power button until it reboots) You now have the normal dial VC: If you want to have the carbon look: 17 – instrument, adaptation: - IDE12467-Tubes illustration, Variant 3 - IDE02489-Display depiction, Variant 1 or 3 (can’t remember which one) If you want to change the end value of your speedometer because of reasons: 17 – instrument, adaptation: IDE13094-Tachometer end value. I used setting Variant 1 for 280kmph. Might be different for MPH. Trim Piece I needed I new trim piece which is now on order. As I understood the partnumber you need can be easily obtained. Note the partnumber on the white label of your old trim piece. In my case 3V0 857 053 N77. N77 is the colour code for my trim piece. To obtain the part nr for the new trim piece just add an ‘A’ after 053. So in my case: 3V0 857 053A N77 is the part nr for the new trim piece. There is also the possibility to fit new MFSW buttons with a VIEW button. - 3V0 919 719 E (manual) - 3V0 919 719 F (DSG) - 3V0 919 719 G (manual + heated) - 3V0 919 719 H (DSG + heated) I've been told that DSG versions work in manual cars and that heated versions work without heated wheels. I did not fit these buttons yet so I do not know if these part numbers are fully correct. If there are any omissions or errors please do tell. Also feel free to add more adaptations.

Similar problem with Audi vehicles using RNSE head unit here. The RNSE uses RDS TMC data with location table 0x07, which is broadcast on Capital and Heart here in London. Presume that’s the Trafficmaster system, as the other UK provider is ITIS on Classic (see https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/190078/Traffic_and_Travel_Report_1_.pdf). Having debugged the data being received by the RNSE I can see only the packet which identifies the location table 0x07 is being broadcast. Absolute no actual TMC messages. In contrast I can see the ITIS service on Classic is transmitting both location table 0x0A and copious amounts of actual TMC messages. Unfortunately having different location tables means the two services are incompatible, since the Audi navigation database (based on Here maps) contains only location table 0x07 data for identifying incident locations. Currently looking for some way to contact Trafficmaster.

Not much wildlife on display this evening, but the Bluebells are stunning and it was an ideal sky for reflections 👍

Good work 👍 What's the aftermarket looking relay for that's mounted on the (right in pic) strut tower?

My Garmin stand alone sat nav, 1490T, uses Trafficmaster for traffic information, which does not now work, so there will also be a lot of disgruntled Garmin owners out there as well.

So far, yes, although it's early days.

Did it cure the s/s fault?

I had an S40 and loved it. Hope you have a similar experience with the S60.

Good summary - some of the earlier posts were going a little off tangent. VAG clearly use Trafficmaster not INRIX, hence the recent problems being experienced by VAG owners.

New wheel bearing on. Took me 40 minutes. Didn't need a gear puller it just came off. Only thing I had to buy was a 30mm 12 sided socket for a whopping €6.50. Fronts are a different beast and I wouldn't want to tackle one of them without the proper too. Thankfully it's not needing one yet.

245/40R19 seem quite a popular change from the standard 235/40R19. 245/40R19 are a cheaper size, offer a little more rim protection from pothole damage and kerbing damage, and should be a little more comfortable. If people are using the standard 235/40R19 with 15mm spacers without rubbing, you shouldn't have any rubbing with 245/40R19 on those 8Jx19 ET35 rims. 245/40R19 is even listed as a Skoda approved alternative to 235/40R19 on the Karoq 4WD, as it's shown in Skoda's alloy wheel catalogue. Skoda alloy wheel catalogue https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b

Hi Skodanewb, Not wanting to be a smart 4rse, and I hope you take this in good spirit, but maybe Rule125 of the highway code has the answer 🤔😉 Cheers. Rule 125 The speed limit is the absolute maximum and does not mean it is safe to drive at that speed irrespective of conditions. Unsafe speed increases the chances of causing a collision (or being unable to avoid one), as well as its severity. Inappropriate speeds are also intimidating, deterring people from walking, cycling or riding horses. Driving at speeds too fast for the road and traffic conditions is dangerous. You should always reduce your speed when the road layout or condition presents hazards, such as bends sharing the road with pedestrians, particularly children, older adults or disabled people, cyclists and horse riders, horse drawn vehicles and motorcyclists weather conditions make it safer to do so driving at night as it is more difficult to see other road users.

The 150kW is the power rating of the motor. 150kW=201PS=204HP. It is not related to charging speed.

With Arnold Clark Trustpilot reviews get their attention will seniors attention. Social Media / Forums etc can draw their attention. But for now just use your consumer rights. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/507133-cazoo-bother

This is the same issue I had with them. I know you probably already have been on the phone with them today, but I would call them again and ask for the service desk manager and do not take no for an answer. Maybe quote this person: Elkanah Senior Customer Support Specialist He was the one that got everything sorted for me after I finally spoke to someone senior. Quote his name, maybe it will progress it faster.

The factory 19s that r available on the Superb r 8.0J x 19“ ET44. Hence the same size with an ET35 will stick out 9mm more. Compared to ur current setup, the Audi wheels will stick out 6mm.

New battery now fitted (EFB), they'd ordered an AGM in by mistake, 20 mins later had an EFB dropped off. So in the end had it supplied, fitted and adapted for £150 all in, so was pleased with that and a 2 year guarantee on the battery. They used a type of cloned system to adapt the battery. New battery showing 12.7v with engine switched off.

Tesla hubs open to all are now up to 24. Aviemore Dundee Adderstone Harrogate Manchester Trafford Centre Flint Mountain Aberystwyth Birmingham Merry Hill Birmingham St Andrews Thetford Cambridge Trumpington Banbury Carmarthen Cardiff Newport Uxbridge Heathrow T1 & T2 Romford Wokingham Grays Sidcup Dorking Guildford Folkestone Eurotunnel Terminal

There are only 3 level sensors with DCC, if the car has standard suspension it only has a rear level sensor

The refresh is 144Hz Needs to use HDMI as it's for a work laptop (only has hdmi) and PC. So just 2x input I have extensions right now but I think the port on the latop is starting to wear I did get a basic USB3 dock it does work but can't cope with the resolution

I agree my DPF is not clogged up as I have noticed it on times when I have driven a lot at lower speeds and shorter journeys the car has done the Regen and its noticeably different to what I am experiencing consistently now. Regarding the 'Italian tune up' I have done this in the past inadvertently, but recently this has not been done.. I guess I should make a conscious effort on this to see if it works. Thanks

Try to check out specs on these units, look at some YT vids. They are in dollars, so not sure if they can be purchased. https://connectpro.com/ Do you have more detail for your post refresh rate of screen inputs on the monitor two pc's and one monitor?

Yes, Inrix have stated that it is still carried on Classic FM signal and that nothing has changed their end...

My Octavia was ordered 21st of July 2021. I can pick up the car 13th of May.

Should be an SD slot in the glovebox unit. That's what's behind the "blanking plate", the main unit. If you take the cover off you'll be into the guts with circuit boards etc. There should be a USB in the centre console that should work for music.

Some pics of Gandalf after a morning run....

Since it is my son's car, I hadn't even bothered to look for such a switch, On my Superb, all the mirror controls, electric window controls, and door locking controls are on the driver's armrest, and I had just assumed that his car wasn't so equipped, but I've just nipped out and the car does have central lock and unlock switches down by the bottom of the gear lever. In summary, the lock and unlock switches work for the rear doors and tailgate, and have no effect on either of the 'keyed' doors. To be honest, this is in line with the diagnostic help that I have been getting from @Breezy_Pete and @billwin. The method of agitating the doors at the same time operating the key on the opposite side of the car did suggest that the motor control in at least the driver's door could be made to work by the agitation, and thus needed repairing/replacing. You may be right about the passenger door motor PCB or other internal being damaged as the wires were actually broken on that door hinge, and we couldn't get that wake up during 'agitation'. I aim (Coronation fun and oaths permitting) to get at least the passenger one off and open this weekend and see what goodies lie therein. Will post the results.

I fitted B4's to my 2008 Golf GT Sport 170 TDI which was remapped to 210 bhp and 325 lbs-ft. It was on the standard Sport Suspension springs. I didn't go for B6's as I didn't want a hard ride as much of my driving is on very bumpy backroads, I found the B4's to be very good on the Golf and even better after I fitted the Powerflex Anti-Lift kit to the front wishbones. This isn't available for the MQB platform but Powerflex do supply adjustable front bushes for the wisbones on MQB cars. These perform with same function by increasing the castor of the front wheels. This reduces front end lift under acceleration and reduces understeer markedly at the cost of making the front end a bit choppy over transverse ridges in the road.

On the 220, there is no under tray or cover behind the wheel arches, on either side. The exhaust takes up most of the room. If ur wheel arch liner is properly secured to the rear bumper, then there shouldn't b much movement. Some slight flex, yes.

Pretty sure those are non-replaceable LED's. If you really want to change them, you'll need to: - cut the headlight apart - remove the PCB with the LED's attached - unsolder the original LED's - find suitable replacements and resolder them - reassemble and seal the headlight Probably not worth the effort

Hi guys so I got an update on my issue booked into a specialist and they plugged in the vcds and discovered that someone had messed around with the revs and set them at -60 from normal idle he reset back to 0 and problem instantly solved, they did this free of charge for me and while I was there booked in for the dsg service 😄 (I couldn't wait 5weeks for the Skoda appointment)

225? There's also the 210 (ish) which was in earlier Audi S3s and Leon Cupra Rs before they went to the 225 engine. There was also the special edition mk1 TT which had 240bhp. Probably some other variants around as well... Anyway, I think it will be prohibitively expensive to turbocharge your current engine. You'd be better off either fitting a 1.8T engine and modifying/tuning it to your power requirements or just buying another car that already has the power you're after.

Great minds think alike! Or maybe suspicious minds!

Did you actually see the job done? Hyperbole like that from a mechanic is often employed to cover the fact that they have not actually changed anything. When I suspect I am being told Porkies, the longer and more detailed the story the more likely it has been made up.

Weather certainly changing this evening - clouds are whizzing by! Lovely sunset too............

My english are not good but do you mean these? https://www.seatmotorparts.co.uk/seat-shop/genuine-vw-seat-audi-skoda-front-brake-caliper-carrier-bracket-bolts/ Part Number: N91084901 / N 91084901 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n91084901-screw-m14x1-5x55-skoda-27922.html

A little bit more power 😃

Not Riegers. I sourced the sideskirts from China, and did some mods on them. The one you pointted is MK8 Golf's wheel arch spoiler, or fender flare, or whatever they called....

That car is just another level Lofty ! Well done. Them pictures of the underside wow ...! You will need a covered trailer now for the show season! I have to hang my head in shame every time I see this thread as mine has to be the rattiest, dirtiest and unkept vRS in the world....! 😞

I’ll show you before and after you have a Sportline,, right? m Hope these help.

Indeed, when i first started driving everything was manual. Steering, brakes, indicators. No form of assistance whatsoever. My parents old Ford Pop, used to have vacuum powered wipers, which used to slow down to a halt when going up hills.