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Not today, but got the new rims a few days ago and cleaned and sealed them beforehand. Let's see how the whole thing will look on the Superb.

With something of a sense of guilt, given everyone's kind efforts, I'm popping back to say that I still haven't changed the car. The worrying noises coming from the Mk2 turned out to be a (somewhat dangling) water pump. With that sorted it's really hard to find a reason to get rid of this car. Despite being 13 years old, it's incredibly reliable, it's regularly giving me over 45 mpg, it takes whatever loads you throw at, the cabin is actually really nice (I'm still obsessed with the fact that the Mk3 loses the door card fabric and the right foot rest). I still think that when it dies it will get replaced by a Mk3 (so the advice remains helpful). But with the cost of every being so high currently, even 'man maths' can't make me part with a great car for something largely unknown. I was such a car guy. I never imagined I'd keep a car for over a decade!

Very essential, so you can see the fagsmoke in the dark in countries where even your GP smokes!

A bit of an update, Had a bit of time off from posting but I’m now back citigos had a little done to it now back on oem Gti suspension 15” Auriga Monte Carlo alloys I changed the fuel tank for a later facelift tank and a new gti fuel pump as ever since I did the conversion I had a fuel pump error code as i was using the original car head and internals from the gti pump and even though it caused me no issues, I didn’t want anything to crop up when it’s eventually remapped. Mk4 Fabia Monte Carlo steering wheel fitted and stainless pedals, just waiting on a new gear knob and interiors pretty much how I want. Also fitted another Brazilian part I imported which is a stainless charge pipe and dv, although you can choose to blank of the dv which is how I’m running it currently. It’s so comfy on 15” with the oem suspension 😁 Some pictures!!

The immobiliser is in the cluster so you can’t “plug and play” anything, not even a genuine exchange panel, what is the VIN?

Yeah, after one week without issues, mine rebooted 3 times yesterday, one after another. So, no... removal of radio station logos doesn't fix the issue.

Hi , My 2022 RS came with Bridgestone Potenza S005. Truly awful. Coarse, noisy and unrefined. Could accept it if they handled well, but they don't. Michelin PS4 or 5 for sure next time.

I’ve had the car about 5 weeks and only realised yesterday that it has keyless entry 😂 No one at the dealers told me this when I picked the car up and so I’ve been locking and unlocking the car using the key fob buttons, which is what I’ve done with previous cars. But when I got home yesterday the car seemed to be playing up when I tried locking it - depressed fob, doors locked but then for some reason I double-checked the boot and found that it would still open. Assuming I’d not locked up properly I unlocked and locked it again . . . .repeat. Decided I’d leave the car as was and google the problem only to then realise that the keyless system was the ‘cause’ in so far as every time I touched the boot catch or door it would unlock. At this point the theme from the Muppets was playing loudly in my head and boy did Significant Other have a laugh. Perhaps I should have read the handbook more thoroughly, but hey no harm done. SO asked me today if there was any other buttons I’ve not found yet that’ll make the car fly 😏

Although our Octy Mk4 has been the best car we've driven, because of long delivery times I was hoping to order a new iV estate for delivery before the warranty runs out in May 2023. When I visited the dealer, I was informed that the Octavia and Superb are currently not being made owing to materials shortage. I was offered a look at an Enyaq, but I don't like it: it's too chunky, too expensive and I don't want a car which cannot be refuelled in a few minutes. None of the other conventional cars in the present Skoda range are suitable, nor are the PHEVS offered by Kia, Citroen and Peugeot: all are too chunky and bland. I had a final check with Skoda Customer Services and they confirmed that it's unlikely an Octavia would be available next year. So after twenty years and six Skodas, we have placed an order for a Toyota Corolla Hybrid estate. It was a great test drive with some clever technology because, despite the two litre engine, over a seven mile journey on a mix of 30mph and unrestricted roads, the car averaged 65mpg with 74% of the time using the battery. I hadn't driven a car with CVT since the dreadful DAF55 many years ago, but it was faultless, although the different engine noise under acceleration will take a little time to get used to. The delivery time is about five months, but as second hand car prices are strong at present I don't mind changing early. Because of the software issues with our Octy for the first year, I'd never keep it (or any PHEV for that matter) beyond the three year warranty as a warranty extension is quite expensive and I'm wary of more expensive software or hardware faults developing.. Also, as long as the Toyota is serviced by a Toyota dealer, the warranty extends after three years by a year per service up to ten years and the battery is guaranteed for fifteen years. I am very sorry to move on from Skoda: until now, the cars have been reliable (except the Octy for its first few months) and our dealer for the last 12 years, Derek Slack Motors, have been excellent. Unfortunately, Skoda has lost the plot as far as I'm concerned and is moving too upmarket as regards pricing, whilst dropping its most suitable cars: the wonderful Yeti (we had two) and the Octy (we also had two). I just hope we don't regret the change and that Toyota's reputation for reliability, as vouched for by Which? magazine, proves to be the case for us. So it's good bye Briskoda and thanks for all the interesting posts and helpful advice since I joined.

Not needed and likely to cause even more problems for someone who can cross thread a bolt.

MK2s are over engineered and go on for ever if well maintained and my Mk2 diesel was still going strong at 216k when I sold it. I don't think prices for petrol models will fall anytime soon as will continue to be strong especially when more and more places are moving into ulez restrictions, which seems to affect mainly to diesels below euro6.

Ok, you want to do a minimum of work to the ride height in this case; think tarmac rally suspension rather than your gravel idea. Engine/transmission wise, if you can afford it, Felicia "kit car" spec engine, 1.6l Group A engine, 1.8t and VR6 engines have all been done before.

Polished and waxed with soft 99 “the kiwami”

If you get an automatic (maybe manual too but not sure) there is another level of security you can have which is to have a lock fitted on the gearbox inside the cabin. It’s an official part but no idea how much it costs to have it installed

Sorry new, larger pic

Any holidays coming up when the car won't be used? I'd be happy to attempt repair by post on a no success no charge basis, and at a lot less than £100 if successful. On the mk1s there's a track that goes under a sticker on the back of the cluster that sometimes overheats and burns out, can't remember which LEDs that takes out but might well be these.

Makes sense to me. What has changed is that the price of new and decent second hand vehicles has risen faster than for many years so when you already have a car you enjoy driving it is difficult to justify the cost of changing to a car that is, at best, only marginally better.

It'll depend on what infotainment system you have - might look like this: Petrolcan's beaten me to where you'll likely find it 👍 Gaz

The old one can be repaired, given that it's all four needles I imagine they're all illuminated by the same failed LED which can be replaced by a workshop with the necessary equipment.

Glove box I'd assume, that's where it is in my Superb.

Just an update, if someone is still following this tread 🙂 I have now replaced the right optocoupler, the operation seems to have worked. I can now scroll without any delays or periodic function. At the end it more and less stopped working, so I managed to find the optocoupler at something called RS Components 👍 It needs soldering, so make sure to have a good soldering iron. I will update you all, if it stops working again!

I have had the same issues with the contacts on P30 Pro. From time to time they were synced, sometimes they were synced but I couldn't get the call-logs synced or got "de-synced" after the first call and sometimes not of all the contacts were synced - I even had a small fight with my spouse when the car didn't recognized her number, as she thought I removed her from my contacts list. :)) There is an app I have used before the update: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.android_rsap.irmc&hl=en_US It basically "forced" the sync of the contacts with the infotainment, however the call logs were never synced with it, but it was something I could live without. The issue with the contacts/call-logs was resolved with the update to 1896 on my infotainment, a thing that now I am regretting completely due to the restarts of the unit quite often at the start of the car.

Yeah they don’t go back In easily that’s for sure, I managed to get mine back in with a lot of gentle wiggling and pressure. If not, cut them off? Can’t see it going very far without them

Its not the cable or the rear dashcam that causes problems. Its the nasty little cheap Chinese 12v-5v dc "Buck" convertors sold on ebay and Amazon that create electrical noise on the 12v vehicle supply. These "Buck" convertors switch or chop the 12v signal down to 5v at very high frequencies. I've monitored some of these little convertors with an oscilloscope and the electrical noise they make is criminal ! These things are normally ok with just one front camera attached, its when you add the second camera they become overworked and create many more harmonic frequency's which can interfere with some radio signals and god knows what else of the Enyaqs control systems. Easy answer is to fit a higher quality (higher power) "Buck" convertor (££) - usually the ones recommended and sold by the camera supplier are ok (or should be !). My solution was to build and fit (I'm an electronics engineer) a simple 12v to 5v LINEAR power supply which creates no electrical noise whatsover. I've used this type for a while now in my Enyaq with no issues at all. My latest install is the VIOFO Pro duo HD 4k, which is one of the best front and rear camera setup. Rear camera lead is simply fed along headlining (away from airbags) and through the rear grommets into the tailgate. Its one of the easiest install I've done.

Covers r good 👍

And a few from this afternoons visit to Attenborough nature reserve...........

A few from Rufford park this evening......

I found a solution! During the incoming call you should scroll cylinder button down and indication changes from “answer” to “reject”. Then just press the button

Front subframe ready to go back together with parts freshly powdercoated, new bearings/hubs, track rods, track rod ends, bottom ball joints, everything polybushedand of course a quick rack off a Leon Cupra R. Engine also pretty much built up and ready to go in. Just need a few little bits before it can be fitted as don't want to make life difficult with access by fitting the engine and then struggling to get to stuff. Hopefully fit the whole unit and then just wire up and plumb in and jobs a gooden 😊

another cover has been add under bonnet €9,38 Battery Cover

Yes. Try this instead. Intake Manifold Position Sensor - Audi 8V/8S/B8.5/B9 & Volkswagen Golf MK7 GTI/R - EA888.3 PART NUMBER: 06K907386D Had the exact same problem in my 2014 Octavia 3 with 84xxx kms I snapped off the old sensor (and it is very easy to get to if you take off the oil filter) and put the new one in. Cost me ~ $140 AUD https://www.vagparts.com.au/products/audi-volkswagen-intake-manifold-position-sensor-genuine-volkswagen-audi-06k907386d?variant=39553411514443 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/intake-manifold-flap-position-sensor/06k907386d/ MK7 Golf Gti's have the same problem however the fix isn't as widely documented since they received intake manifold warranties for up to 10 years or 120k miles. Diagram in here shows where to replace the sensor. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/p2014-code-intake-manifold-runner-position-sensor-switch-circuit-bank-1a.330245/page-2 AUDI: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/14901-s3-2014-error-code-p2014/ Couldn't find it but There was a reddit post I believe talking about this issues where the only comment told OP to buy the sensor and take off the old sensor (he said he snapped it off because it was hard to get out, I did this too.) Super Easy Job, the commenter did it without taking the oil filter housing off and he must have spent ages and doing it but yeah. Take oil filter out, snap the old sensor off, put in the new one, and Bob's you're uncle. The new sensor is a little longer than the old one so it does seem to stick out a bit. Also remember to lightly lube the o-ring on the sensor, I just used engine oil. Hope this helped!!!

Wiper service position is also useful for when you put a cover (frost or sunscreen) on windshield.

I don't know if these can help you.

Service this evening New air filter New oil and filters No glitter in the oil or filter. Oil was very watery though. New fuel filter too Primed the system with vcds, lot easier than bleeding it the normal way, doubt that'd work on this anyway. What came out of the fuel filter. Might cut the old one open just to see how bad it was. Probably gonna service it more frequently now on since it's racking up the miles. Also got the darkside feed line aswell as all gaskets (genuine) to put the turbo on. Everything got now to fit the turbo, waiting for someone to get back to me if they can map it. New undertray got too. Was bought for another car but that ended up using one of my damaged trays, so now I've a new genuine tray to go on whenever. Also making another gearbox mount as the one on it is going.

When I did mine all I needed to do was separate the two rear exhaust sections, and remove the rubber hose that connects the fuel tank to filler neck. Must admit it does make fitting the cross body pipe a bit fiddly, and limits working space around the brake compensator.

Felicia has a diagonally split braking circuit, so on the master cylinder whichever pipe goes to the front right, the pipe opposite it should go to the rear left, and vice versa. This is supposedly so that braking is more even and stable in a situation where one brake line or component fails.

It sounds like the classic water pump shroud seizing. you’ll need a timing belt and water pump replacing if it found to be that. But the symptoms you describe all match up. the reason it happens under load is the engine is fairly good at self regulating it’s own temperature without any flow needed at low load and revs, whereas at higher loads it needs the water pump to assist with moving the coolant a bit faster to cool the engine a bit. There is a metal sleeve over the water pump that moves up and down to regulate coolant flow and this seizes in the open or (mainly) closed position also - don’t open the coolant cap on a hot car!!! You risk 100+ degree water exploding out the reservoir all over you.

Also chassis legs treated for rust and painted. Engine has had genuine new crank seals either side, cam belt kit and tensioner, forge baffled sump, painted cam cover, single mass flywheel and new clutch, S3 engine loom fitted, ancillaries swapped. Just need to sort vacuum and coolant pipework out, fit the 6 speed box and then power train can go back in. Pics to follow..

Little update on the project. Rear beam painted and polybushes installed along with all new brake lines front to rear including goodridge flexi's. Whiteline ARB and Bilstein B16 adjustables. Just waiting on rear wheel bearings to arrive and then can fit the new calipers which have been painted and that's the rear end done then

You have to take the bumper off to get at the painted ones.

Like the colour, pity I couldn't specify all leather seats.

Some pics of Gandalf after a morning run....

Nearly a month and what has happened? Hmmmmm... Droplinks broke! Both sides. Fun. I've replaced one side so far, other side hasn't been done yet. 20230425_135856.mp4 In further news, my driver's side window regulator decided it didn't want to regulate windows anymore, leaving my window completely down. Many black bags later it was whole again, and then as of today, it's now repaired... "professionally" (by me and my Granda). Furthermore, I've chav specced the car with a tasteful* sunstrip. Meh, I like it, it has practical uses. At least it doesn't have mine and the other half I don't have's names on it... Further to that, been sorting out niggles with the car, which included a replacement engine cover, mirror glass, and fitting a spring into the fuel cap! Oh aye, and before I forget, the P0171 issue has been cured! Turns out I'd had the wrong fuel filter on the car, as it was the three bar one (as fitted by the garage), and not the correct four bar filter. 49mpg is doable if I behave. So here is the car as it stands now, I'm really pleased with how it's coming along, never done, of course. However, I am content with where things are at now.

I think the smaller tsi petrol engine versions don't seem to have the dreaded "mit silikat" header tank. My sons 1.2tsi certainly doesn't have the dreaded bursting teabag. His is only the S model but it's still pretty impressive - even on this poverty model I'm amazed how well his mobile works with infotainment, especially using an Amazon Echo Auto to verbally control it. I'd say the best one to get is the very last 1.4.

Software issues are a Mk4 Octavia issue, the Mk3 & Mk3.5 are generally okay AFAIK. The infotainment system is much, much nicer IMO. Bigger, clearer, capacitative rather than resistive. Very nice! I do like the "proper" buttons of the old system, but all things considered, I prefer the new. The looks you get used to. I've now grown to love my Mk3.5's distinctive look, but I can understand why a lot of people don't like it. Additionally, the 1.5 TSI is far more likely than the 1.4 to have a particulate filter fitted. One more thing to go wrong, but generally the 1.5 TSI seems to be a pretty good engine. One plus of the 1.5 is that it's likely to be mated to a later gearbox, and the later the DSG the better. I know everyone seems to like the 1.0 engine, but if buying 2nd hand, I personally wouldn't touch one if I was buying a car to keep for some years. I think it's a bit underpowered, but then I like big grunty engines having driven diesels for a couple of decades. Not sure if the 150ps engines have IRS, but I'm pretty sure the 115ps engines don't have it. I think your idea of a 1.4/1.5 petrol DSG SE L would be a good call, especially if you can find one spec'd with one or two nice extras like heated seats or the full winter pack. I wouldn't worry too much about the silica bag issue. Check the coolant is nice and pink and the heating inside the car is even on driver and passenger side, then whip that silica bag out and replace the G13 coolant with G12evo and you should be golden.

Hi @DadWagon, I might as well add my tuppence worth to this topic. I'm not sure what is actually motivating the change since you seem quite happy with the mk2 and I can understand this as my old mk2 estate (with 1.9pd) was a joy to drive, especially after a couple of Korean MPV and SUV family dictated needs vehicles. I'm guessing your mk2 has independent rear suspension, which you would lose by transferring to the mk3 with rear torsion beam on the lower power versions (irs only on 4wd and vrs models). The latter is not well regarded by some in this forum although I found that driven normally, on normal roads I cannot tell much difference between them. However on Australian dirt roads the mk2 irs and the 15 inch tyres provided a far better ride of the two but that's probably not a real issue around Maidstone . I'd personally avoid any bigger wheels than 17 inch though. There is better space for rear passenger in the mk3, Halogen headlights are slightly better, but even more so in the face lift version of the mk3 but higher spec headlights are recommended if you drive on unlit sections. The mk3 is quite a light vehicle for its size with the smaller petrol engines fitted and so are quite nimble and potentially very economical if you drive 'sensibly'. I drive more sensibly than my wife but even she averages around 6L/100 around town. Like @Rodge I only drive manuals so cannot comment on DSG versions. Good luck with your search and try to get a few test drives to see what you are getting, or losing, with a change.

Cars built from June 2015 onwards (model year 2016) have slightly improved Euro 6 engines an improved infotainment system than can support Android Auto and Apple Carplay, although, as has already been mentioned, you may need to pay to get this enabled. Some, but not all, SE cars had ordinary cruise control fitted as standard. I am happy with the 110 bhp 1.2 TSI engine and there have been good reports about the 115 bhp 1.0 TSI too. They are efficient and the only time you might ever need more power is overtaking on single carriageways. I can't comment on the DSG.

Good to see you have narrowed it down to what you are after. I did the same and then went looking having had a mk2 1.9tdi estate for 12 years from new. I'd echo the comments about checking the coolant reservoir for a split silca bag. Also get the engine up to temperature and put the blowers on high temp... if its not blowing hot the silica bag has split and blocked the matrix and a dealer will charge 2k to flush and fix the system. Those with a silica bag have "mit silicat" printed on the expansion tank but when mine got replaced the main dealer swapped it with a one without the silica bag under the used car warranty. I bought the car with 29k on the clock in the may so never noticed the heater issue until the winter but luckily within the 12month warranty window. I'd also want a full size spare, I kept the one from my mk2 as it was a similar size rolling circumference but on a 16inch rim. Check the one you have in your mk2 and keep it if you can. The main dealer I used said that wouldn't affect the part ex value on mine coz it was so old and off to auction . Depending on age also look for apple /android car connectivity. My 2016 was on the transition year so car play wasn't activated as standard but can be done for about £140 via main dealers to cover the software licence cost. I haven't bothered to do that. Cheers

Very simple job to replace expansion header tank for one without Silikat - provided the original 'teabag' has not already split. As @Stook says, check the colour of the present coolant for discolouration. There was an issue with DSG and the early 1.5 ACT combination (Kangaroo) but that should have been resolved with a software update. I am very happy with my EA211 1.4 TSI.

Avoid any Octavia Mk3 with a coolant expansion tank that has the words "Nit Silikat". Look carefully in the expansion tank for any signs of rust coloured crap. If the coolant isn't bright pink, run a mile...