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Not bad for a wipe-on wipe-off product. Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Liquid wax.

Take it somewhere that has a clue what they are doing. Its really simple to inflate a tyre and place it in a bath completely submerged to find the leak. Chances are the valve stem or wheel bead has some corrosion causing an imperfect seal. Why would the mechanic repair something that he cant find a hole in? And if he thinks there is a tyre defect that hes tried to repair then thats even worse!

Forget about it. Its used when they build the car and is attached to a wicking bit of fabric throughout the frame. They soak the car with water outside and if the fabric gets wet then they attach a multimeter to this wire to detect it.

From the Skoda MIB2 configuration files I’ve seen it appears units are configured to use TrafficMaster over FM and either the service from TrafficMaster or INRIX via internet. https://github.com/catatonicChimp/mib2-tmc-ANZ TmcProviders.xml TmcProviderSets.xml Assuming the online traffic uses the same, or compatible, tables with the RDS system (big assumption) and that the maps therefore already include the necessary tables for both systems, perhaps modifying TmcProviderSets.xml to change the provider_ref id for FM (the first section with tmc_provider_set id=“21”) from 2 (TrafficMaster) to 12 (INRIX) will restore TMC service over RDS?

Columbus

Ok, Car is 38 months old and, out of warranty, with 37500 miles done, so was due its fourth fixed service. First three done by Meadens Skoda in Brockenhurst in Hampshire and all good there. I have owned it from new and I did the fourth service yesterday:- 4 litres of oil and new filter. Filter at the front of the engine from below, twist off/on. Oil drain plug is 19mm at back of engine. Spark plugs required at 40k miles so did them as well. They were a good colour but wanted doing. You need to remove the four coil packs carefully to get to the spark plugs. Only pull straight out and not at an angle. To change the spark plugs you need to remove the air filter housing, with the air filter due at 60k miles. I changed the air filter as well, perhaps this didn't need doing, as it was fairly clean with only one leaf inside the housing. Front tyres at 5 mm but changed for new ones at 27k miles, with original rear tyres down to 4 mm. Tyres rotated. Front brake pads at 10 mm and rear pads at 8mm, with all brakes stripped, cleaned and regreased. All disk faces are clean, flat and have no rust spots/patches high points. All are original brake parts. Bosch filters, NGK spark plugs and tradeTec oil came to less than £80.00 with 1 litre oil spare. The car wanted 0.5 litre of oil before the first service but has not consumed any oil since. Both service and inspection warning messages reset. Scanned car and no faults stored. All good, can't complain. I have had nothing go wrong with the car so far. Still like the car and as usual for me I will keep for a long time. Thanks AG Falco

Hello Lads, Many members are struggling with their DSG going in Neutral when they release the gas pedal and engage the “coasting function”. Especially with the facelifted cars with no drive mode selection option. You can disable the coasting function with VCDS, OBD11, VCP, ODIS E following those steps: Front hood open/popped, Module 19 - Gateway>Long Coding>FPA Funktion Freilauf DefaultON>Not Active Thats all. Enjoy your normal transmission behaviour. 😉

+++ 2025.06.02 +++ -> next 2025.02 # ECE 2024.06 28 Gb version:{"major":1167777,"minor":24032,"build":0} version:{"major":1167777,"minor":24032,"build":0} VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/EUR_13PR129_FCT3WS-241E0_Offline_Update.tar Files inside: 2024.05.24 Downloadable: 2024.06.14 Published: 202-.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_EU_202448_Offline_Update.zip Files inside: 2024.05.24 Downloadable: 2024.11.18 Published: 2024.12.0? Seat portal: https://navigationmaps.seat.com/MIB3/CW48-2024/EUR_13PR129_FCT3WS-241E0_Offline_Update.tar Files inside: 2024.05.24 Downloadable: 2025.01.02 Published: 202-.--.-- # Asia 4.1 Gb VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/ASIA_13PR129_CT3W-241E1_Offline_Update.tar Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_ASIA_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Australia 1.8 Gb VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/AUS_13PR129_CT3WS-241E1_Offline_Update.tar Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_AUS_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Chile 496 Mb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_CHILE_202448_Offline_Update.zip # India 7.6 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_INDIA_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Israel 244 Mb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_ISR_202448_Offline_Update.zip # North Africa 1.5 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_NA_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Turkey 20.2 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_TUR_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Gulf Region 2.8 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_AGCC2_202448_Offline_Update.zip # South Africa 1.5 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: - - # South America 8.2 Gb VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/MRM1_SAM_13PR129_CT3WS-241E1_Offline_Update.tar Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_SAM_202448_Offline_Update.zip ======= coverage ======= # Gulf Region Bahrain, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Qatar, Russia, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates # South Africa Botswana, Lesotho, Mozambique, Namibia, Reunion, South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe # South America Argentina, Bahamas, Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Mexico, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Puerto Rico, Uruguay, Venezuela

After my earlier plea for help, I went over to see @varooom who had access to an earlier version on VCDS and also ODIS. Sadly the VCDS couldn’t find Hex A9, so we plugged in the ODIS into the OBD port and computer and went from there. Car ignition was on, and bonnet open during this process. It was a bit like a needle in a haystack, with very little information on YouTube or the web. After searching through probably 1,000 different modules/entries on the screen, eventually we found under 0001 Engine Electronics a submenu with 00A9, the dreaded Sound Actuator. This should be photo#1 clicking on that took is to the second picture, which showed the volume of the actuator as 100. We (he) then changed that value to “0” (zero), clicked “apply”. Then as per the third picture, you can see it has stored the current value as 0. Shut the ODIS down and remove plug from OBD port Turned ignition off, shut the bonnet, shut and locked the car for a minute. unlocked the car and started up. And silence (from the actutor) ensues. As all you have done is turn down the volume, no other faults are thrown. (Disconnecting the unit physically reportedly throws other faults up, and removing the fuse also stops other stuff working) Anyhow, that’s how it was done, and hopefully this information will save other people a lot of time trying to find where 00A9 is buried on ODIS Oh, just to add, running the diagnostics does chew through the car battery, so make sure you have a jump start pack or can plug the car in to something g like a Ctek charger/conditioner while running the diagnostics. And make sure you have turned the heated seat off too as that really seems to eat the battery 🤦🏼 And big thanks to my new hero, @varooom

If they did not have a 2016 Fabia but a 2006 Fabia it might be on 14" wheels and cheaper still. But they are where they are with what they have.

Myself plus the usual co-pilot, and a few mates not on this site are attending in our Mk1s, and I know @lewiswal47 is coming with us in his Mk3 Monte too.

@Carlston Not everyone with an issue with tyres / punctures need or want smaller wheels or narrower tyres than their vehicle has.

Oh aye I am! Wonder who owns those two lush cars 😍

The complete rubber part had detached, when I removed the control arm it just popped right out. I replaced them with great difficulty, At first me and my mate tried to use a Erbauer Holesaw to push the metal ring out, then we gave up and I found a bespoke press that my dad had used on my sisters mini cooper bushes. Although it was slightly too big, We managed to push it out using the Holesaw wedged between them. Getting the new ones in was far easier, Just greased it up, lined up the new one & used the old ring to push them down into place. Took us about 4 hours to do the totally f**ked one, and about 30 mins on the other side as we knew what to do that time! Thinking about it, I couldve taken that opportunity to upgrade my control arm & bushes to S1 or Ibiza cupra ones. Oh well! Putting the control arm back in was a bit of a battle, But with a few kicks and shoves we got it all aligned and bolted back up. I believe the creaking noises i was experiencing over speed bumps or deceleration from a slow speed (ie 20mph to stop) was down to the rubber grinding and the metal ring grinding too, as the pushed up rubber was pushing the control arm down into the frame.

Thank you very much for the very quick answer, I installed a update, Smartlink starts a little bit faster, I hope that it will be stable on the longer routes.

Never too old for a bit of tinkering, I’m in my 50s, it’s said to improve mpg not been out much to check it yet

Some people do it yes. Do i recommend it, no. The motors are made to apply a specific amount of torque to the piston screw and wind on and off a set amount to prevent binding. When you do it manually you override these values and can cause either excessive drag or can cause the motor to twist past its stops and can break the lugs off the motor. In the short term you may not have any issues, in the long term you may not have any issues, but there is still the chance you will do it wrong and something will have extra wear on it.

I waited quite a while. It only takes a couple of minutes tops to populate on other platforms. The TMC messages are transmitted as a rolling carousel, sort of like old school teletext. So usually you have to wait for the whole database to be transmitted at least once before anything is displayed.

I've got a screwfix near me, so just put this stuff on, my superstar neighbour has offered me his little run around clio to use until parts arrive, (he's got a brand new Octavia Vrs that I'm very jealous of) so this stuff just needs to hold while it's parked on my drive (on a slope so no oil touching other than the tiny bit to roll the car down from my garage). All parts ordered, £255. That's the side cover plate, front cover plate, gaskets for both, new oil and filter. I was planning to do the oil and filter later on this year anyway, so I'm not too sore about draining it all now.

If you click that physically forward it does stop the travel assist working.

Wet stopping distance Quatrac 47.1m CrossClimate 49.2m (4.5% longer braking distance) Wet lap average speed Quatrac 46.3mph CrossClimate 44.6mph (3.7% slower speed) Fuel consumption Quatrac 50.8mpg CrossClimate 49.8mpg (2% less mpg) 2022 all-season tyre review (195/55R16 tyre size) https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2022-Auto-Bild-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm Before you purchase tyres online, I suggest you get a list of local tyre fitters that don't have a problem fitting tyres that you have purchased online. You could try websites that sell car tyres online, such as camskill, blackcircles, mytyres, etc. to see if they have a list of tyre fitters in the UK who are willing to fit tyres that you have purchased online. You could also try mobile tyre fitters that come round to your house or place of work in their van.

It is strange but it seems like some "could be" common parts or parts used across the 4 main VW Group marques, do not have the same quality/durability, Skoda and SEAT seem to suffer from window and door seals not "living" as long as you might hope or expect, while VW and Audi similar parts seem to last longer, might be just down to different suppliers or different country of manufacture. By the way, these window/door frame guides/seals do not and are not designed to stop water getting down into the door frame - there are drain holes on the lower end of the door frames to allow water to escape and waterproof membranes to protect the speakers and door cards etc. These parts should be able to be bought from any Skoda dealership parts department, they might need ordering in for you though.

Those are the firmware releases, not map releases which is the thread.

@Gaz I would hope it would be something as simple as battery the wrong way round, I wouldn't put it past myself! Anyway, never thought of trying the spare key battery, and it works in my old key! Cheers. Problem being, the battery in my old key was a cr2025, so that's what I replaced it with... but the battery in the spare is a cr2032

For starters, ur setup isn't good!! U shouldn't b running different sized tyre profiles between from and rear. Why have u done that? U r running odd tyre sizes, front and back. Also 225 wide tyres is not recommended on the 8" wide rims, which the Superb uses. Standard tyre size on the 19" rims r 235/40/19. Many have upsized to 245/40/19 tyres, including myself. It's more comfortable, cheaper, easier to find, and reads closer to the true GPS speed.

God, as if it wasn’t bad enough that your car has been damaged. You then have the prospect of maybe having to drive an Insignia for a few weeks whilst it’s away being repaired…

it's not from the drain plug, I think leaking from the sealing, I thinks I should replace the same amount to what I have drained it was only 1.6l not more

The car might behave much better once the spark plugs are replaced if it does still have the originals in at 77,000 miles. Maybe the air filter replaced if that is the original still. Simple and basic servicing and replacing of consumables.

The cover should be clipped back on but likely one or more of the clips are broken because the inlet elbow is not correctly inserted into the casing (it needs to go further in and engage 2 grooves further back) meaning the person will have forced it breaking at least one clip and hence it fell off. - There should be 3 clips IIRC. This is incorrect, the engine will still be able to draw the correct volume of filtered air, with the cover missing there is less restriction but miniscule. It's function is to get the coolest possible air into the combustion chamber for the maximum efficiency, its secondary function is for vapour to condense and drain out before reaching the air filter reducing its efficiency, there is also a snorkel port so the engine cannot ingest water if the vehicle is driven through a flood higher than the inlet in the lower grill. Janet, you should ask what work has been done to the car as that inlet pipe has been recently removed and misfitted, it could be clutch or transmission work. The smell of fuel should be investigated as an urgency given the slap dash nature of whatever work was carried out, the absence of that cover would not result in a smell of fuel.

Drain plug? 🥴 Was I supposed to drain the old oil? 🤣

yeah, but what if the OP has short legs ..... eeek! 😱

The torque required to undo a plug is irrelevant to the correct tightening torque. Adding your engine code to the discussion may help in finding the relevant spec, but if you haven't stripped any threads, everything will be fine.

If your car is the one in your profile picture its a facelift not pre-facelift Pre-one headlight Facelift-spit headlights

The designers of cars have considerable problems when trying to set up the seating position for all shapes and sizes of drivers. I'm not being sizist, but a car has to accommodate the tall and the short (I'm the latter) the slim (that's me again) and the increasing proportion of drivers who are overweight. If you are short in the leg (me) then you have the seat fairly well forward and possibly set higher than someone of more substantial girth. So, opinions about how a car fits a driver are almost wholly dependent on the body dimensions of the driver. One size definitely doesn't fit all. The relative positions of the seat, the armrest, the handbrake lever, the gear stick, the steering wheel and the pedals are all a compromise designed to fit the "average" occupant and with the best will in the world, will not please everyone. Like the OP, I find the armrest doesn't move far enough forwards when I'm on a motorway, but when I'm driving on other roads I slide the armrest right back as I feel it gets in the way when I need to use the handbrake. And no, I don't know of any way of extending the armrest forwards.

Thing is it’ll be affecting units that are much newer than this and will still be for sale on Skoda forecourts. Wonder where they stand if they don’t point it out to potential buyers?

Surely if the armrest came forward more it would prevent getting hold of the handbrake? I find with it fully pushed back the padding still contacts my wrist/forearm when using the handbrake. I think it should have been made to be higher.

If you go to TVS for TCU, might as well do ECU, unless you wanna travel around?

Yeah I’m not convinced of the tyres on the car tbh. The front two are autogreen sportchasers but one of them has 205/55Z/R16 on them. Not sure what the Z means and the back two tyres are 1 x Goodyear and 1 x triangle sportex? they’ve all got about 4mm on them. Thinking of just replacing all 4 for some decent tyres.

@NOOBTOSKODAIs this the Merc Wheels you tried on. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/512292-fitting-mercedes-alloys-to-skoda-yeti

Agree with that. Very pleased with mine (it came with a full sized spare wheel).

I'm toying with the idea of Imola Bronze 🤔 thoughts? See colour below, going on black car btw

Hiding from the sun today.

Finally they are changing media control unit again. Ordered on Friday, promise to install it no later than Wednesday. I hope this one will work longer than half a year, cause my warranty is about to be over and this control unit costs 1,5k+.

@26DIPP You can go into 'Neutral' by putting the DSG into N. It might well coast in N but it will not be in 'Coasting' ready to be in gear when you touch the accelerator or brake pedal.

After having the Superb for 12 months, loved the car and the way it performed, BUT............. Not getting younger did find it a tad awkward getting in / out not being the agile person that I used to be! Test drove a Kodak,as had a Freelander before the Superb! OMG, I was in heaven! So bought a 2018 SE Technology, missing some bells and whistles the Superb had me used to, but felt happy! Then numerous breakdowns / faults on running or starting, but all located to a faulty Relay, 645, on l/h side of engine bay fusebox, cheap fix! Now well happy, two good runs without any issues, so comfy driving position and being back to "high up" is grand! Westfaila detachable towbar ordered the hopefully set up for quality holidays!

With something of a sense of guilt, given everyone's kind efforts, I'm popping back to say that I still haven't changed the car. The worrying noises coming from the Mk2 turned out to be a (somewhat dangling) water pump. With that sorted it's really hard to find a reason to get rid of this car. Despite being 13 years old, it's incredibly reliable, it's regularly giving me over 45 mpg, it takes whatever loads you throw at, the cabin is actually really nice (I'm still obsessed with the fact that the Mk3 loses the door card fabric and the right foot rest). I still think that when it dies it will get replaced by a Mk3 (so the advice remains helpful). But with the cost of every being so high currently, even 'man maths' can't make me part with a great car for something largely unknown. I was such a car guy. I never imagined I'd keep a car for over a decade!

Trw have been the best fit I’ve found. Likewise the brembo from eurocarparts were poor and also had pagids that delaminated

I think the smaller tsi petrol engine versions don't seem to have the dreaded "mit silikat" header tank. My sons 1.2tsi certainly doesn't have the dreaded bursting teabag. His is only the S model but it's still pretty impressive - even on this poverty model I'm amazed how well his mobile works with infotainment, especially using an Amazon Echo Auto to verbally control it. I'd say the best one to get is the very last 1.4.

Looks like it would be easy to me. U-shaped cutout bit of cardboard with e.g 288mm between inner faces of the u is another easily made measurer.

My 2.0 TDI Dsg certainly has much stiffer steering in sport mode and also in D compared to eco, I don't like eco steering at speed, it's a bit too twitchy I also change from eco to D or S when on country roads for better confidence in tighter corners.