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Skoda had a bad name here in Australia when it was a State owned asset during the Soviet era. In 1991 the VW Group acquired a 30% stake and full control in 2000. During that time in Australia, Ford and Holden (an Australian derivative of General Motors USA) held the majority of car sales. Slowly Japanese manufacturers started to erode that market share, and that brought about the end of the Holden and largely any local manufacturing disappeared. In 2017 this was reported - Škoda in Australia 2017 Today, on the other side of the world, Škoda is one of the fastest growing car brands. This year, Skoda has outsold Peugeot, Mini, Volvo and Fiat in Australia. Their sales numbers rival Jeep. Although small compared to the other Volkswagen Group brands, Škoda sales have grown 10.7% in 2017 over all. Fabia is their top performer, with a 39% growth reported from January to August, making up 738 of their 3,013 units sold in the first eight months of the year. Škoda in Australia 2021 While Skoda still lags behind its better-known sibling, Volkswagen, in the sales stakes – representing just a third of Volkswagen's year-to-date sales in 2021 – its sales numbers are equalling or exceeding established premium brands like Land Rover, Lexus and Volvo. The bottom line is, we are slow on the uptake but we are being educated

I will put money on the fact that Skoda didn't change the filter if a mk4 or clean the screen if mk5. If you only change the oil and not the filter then the haldex can die before the next service interval. Happened to me

here in Oz, we either get a Sportline 206TSi AWD, or a non-Sportline 206TSi / 162TSi / 140TDi. we don't have the numerous variants like u guys do in Europe. mine is non-Sportline 162 TSi, however it has a mix of trims from L&K as well as Sportline. but i'm not going to stick Sportline or L&K badges on it, because it ain't one. Just like how i wouldn't stick vRS badge because it ain't one, but plenty do. people who know wat a Superb is, can't figure out wat Superb i have - so they're having to do a double-take, or get a closer look to understand wat they're looking at. hahaha. in fact, most people here don't even know what a Superb is, let alone a Skoda. i'm happy with my frankenstein personalised Superb.

Colourful end to the day.........

A while back my SEL FE was on 1668 which did have some issues; the dealer updated it to 1896 which is where it is now. It took the dealer two steps (and several days) to get there - presumably through 1762. It's back there in a couple of weeks during which time I hope they update it to 1941 (or later if a further update exists). @varooom you have been an absolute star, sharing so much valuable information and help to other Biskodians in this thread (and others). Thank you very much, and enjoy your leave.

It Will be the slave, I've been there done that and got the T-shirt.

They are lowered over stock but they are still high. I've added Racingline springs and it's subtle but a very slight drop. Just enough IMO and doesn't scrape. Comfort is better because of the newer shocks, maybe 10% stiffer but barely noticeable. Before After What they look like on

Then carry a spare battery in your wallet or in the car.

Was going to say the same as previous poster, use the physical key?

As above, use the key located in the fob to open the door and place key next to start/ stop button as per the instructions in the owners manual.

Big big job. Lots and lots of posts on here from others in same predicament. The latter parts of the engine failures ea888 sticky includes some. But lots of people who have got caught buying second hand cars and post their dismay after owning the car for a month and 300 miles and the oil light on. Leaves a very uneasy feeling in their stomach and they come on here hoping for reassurence. The advice is always invoke statutory protection and return car if bought from trader.... Whilst in the early stages, the car won't just stop. Eventually, the burning oil will kill the engine one way or another whether it be burnt valves, sticking valves carboned up, lack of cylinder compression (happens very late on and is not evident in earlier stages). One day it will just not work anymore. and no one can tell you when exactly.... Petrol engines are not designed to burn 1litre in 500 miles. Especially if it has manifest presently in one cylinder, that is going to fail in the not too distant future. But in all likelihood, although plugs are not fouled yet, other cylinders are probably passing oil, just not as bad ... yet. Its a steep slope once it takes hold.

L&K doesn't mean anything for most of people, me too removed outside's L&K and added Superb wing emblems, but in same line as door handles

So you expect Skoda to tell you how to do something with your vehicle that it wasn't designed to do? To make modifications that could impact on your warranty? I think you need to adjust your expectations, if I'm being brutally honest. The Kodiaq (as with most if not all UK cars) has front DRLs only - their suggestion to turn the sidelights on is the only one that they can give because that's the only solution that would give you the result you want without them advocating modifying the vehicle, which they would never do.

What do you think of the fender badge?

Change of tires with increase in measurement to 245/45/18, in Michelin Primacy 4. I discarded the 4+ since the improvement according to I have read is only wet and also has less thickness of rubber.

No doubts a Superb!!

You're all missing the point. EVs are much better to drive. Fossil cars are so rough and agricultural in comparison. I drove a brand new petrol Skoda recently - it was horribe compared with my Enyaq, felt like I was driving an old tractor. 🤨

*Update on situation* Called up the service center (Spoke to the manager) this morning and they asked me drive the car to them. Car was taken immediately to the workshop on arrival and was sorted out in 30mins. They did admit the oil was overfilled and now is at the right level. They apologised for not having done the screws up properly for the under tray. The residue of oil on the under tray was left from the engine oil filter service and was not cleaned. No leaks from the differential. They have refunded the whole cost of the service. Car is back at home, all good! Thanks a lot for the advice guys!

Welcome to my list of 'special people' I no longer read.

@numskull, @dunc69, @lmb, @Lutz_91 - u guys would hate my Gandalf big time as I've gone to town with the Superb badging!!! Can't have too many reminders of wat model Skoda I have! Hehehe.....ok maybe I have too many. 😛 Fender... Door sill..... Steering wheel..... Door puddle lights...... Boot lid Lower grille..... Air intake.....

Hello Jassi, Any full synthetic oil meeting VW standards 504.00 or 507.00 will be fine for your engine. These are usually 0w30 or 5w30 oils. 0w30 meeting those standards are a bit more expensive but for the cold climate should be slightly preferred over the 5w30. Change it every 12-15k km or once a year if possible

Haha, NOTE number 3 seems likes to remind you that they did EV health check and you get free engine oil top up's, all in the same note. Interest free is worthy of considering with today's high base rate. Stick the money somewhere to build interest.

1668 might not able to upgrade directly to 1941, according to TPI it should be at least 1788 or higher. Also on 1941 update files there are exclusion for below version of software: "BlockedTrains" : [ "MOI3_EU_SK_R5890L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R5910L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R6030L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R6040L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R6210L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R6400L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R6460L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R6500L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7160L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7170L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7290L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7300L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7450L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7550L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7560L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7570L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7580L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7590L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7600L", "MOI3_EU_SK_R7610L" ], Which means you need first upgrade to 1788 or higher and then do 1941.

Every single blue light driver SHOULD be spot on every single time, no excuses. It’s not like we are poodling to the shops for a loaf of bread, we often drive at speed in busy traffic (London for me), negotiating red traffic lights and busy roundabouts. We were trained to “Roadcraft” standards and every drive should be given 100% concentration, no excuses. Im sure this will somehow offend some people (my posts tend to😂) but I won’t apologise for it, blue light drivers should be a cut above. Anyway, last assist is still not dangerous 😂😂

If it’s the ŠKODA warranty I don’t see why not mine was.

Garage did it under warranty.

Update Build date week 33, so mid August. Then add for delivery.

That's what I meant drivers side engine mount to lower the engine giving access to the timing belt. The belts only done 48,000 mile but its been just over 4yr since it was changed so just been a bit cautious as I absolutely love the car. I phoned pullman skoda who said they would have to order the engine mount bolts in & they could only supply a bulk bag costing over £120 so i rang a company called TPS who can sell me the 6 bolts needed for £21.60

I wouldn't think it's worth doing the belt again yet, personally. Isn't it only the driver's side engine mount that needs to shift? Engine doesn't need to move, does it?

Sorted @Melair

@Spit476 I just mean it will get moved where you might get answers. ? Is it a 2.0 TSI or TDI vRS. Petrol or Diesel. ? How many miles has it done? Has it had the appropriate servicing and maintenance? ? Is this something new happening, or is the car new to you and this is what happens?

As long as it's getting shared, all good. Happy motoring, I can now restart my leave.

Now I am home from holiday, I have recreated my spare skoda card with the V12 maps and then applied the V2 patch and it works on my MIB2 standard. It took a minute or so before the red diagonal line dissappeared and two messages popped up, one in North Wales and one in Barnsley. I am in Cheshire. Great thanks to those who worked out a solution, I will keep new and V12 maps in the car and swap when needed.

That is indeed well done to BMW, the lane assist should indeed shut down if it is unable to see the white lines clearly, be it because the cameras view is obscured by the rain on the windscreen, or camera is not able determine what is a white line on the road because of light reflections from the wet road. I would hope that the system in the Superb follows suite, I have already discovered that the stop/start will take into account the workload of the A/C so that is good.

Beware of part numbers starting 6Q1, they'll be LHD versions.

Sorry, but that alignment looks wrong.....in my opinion. Tis ur car though, so how u want it is all that matters for u. Higher up, like how I've done it, is the same alignment done with the Sportline badge. It also sits/blends nicely within the crease folds/contours.

Thanks, I already talked to a dealer and booked a slot for the Canton module update. Currently, I run on the 4015 version and 4019 is available (checked via OBD11).

You'll have to get a closer image @MartiniB. I can't see any detail there!

Get someone to walk beside the vehicle watching the front brake disc and caliper to prove or disprove my hypothesis, if its not that they will be able to localise the sound better than you from the drivers seat.

Exhaust catalyst. If you look at the oil filler cap it has an over filling will damage the cat and the oil burning produces the same result. The engine won't suddenly fail,

I that case, I fully support what you you've done. It's about time the folk of Oz were educated about how good a car a Superb is. 👍👍

Yep, did this job myself a couple of months back, and had to give the inner CV joint some serious Welly with a hammer to get it to engage with the differential gear.

That would leak oil to the outside of the engine, oil on the electrode is 99% sure to be coming up from the crankcase past the piston rings on the induction stroke during light throttle openings. If it were the turbo or crankcase ventilation it would affect all 4 spark plugs equally. A compression test may reveal low compression on that cylinder which will be more than just stuck rings but broken ones and bore damage. The auto parts shop did not want you leaving without buying something.

Took it out and cleaned it with contact cleaner like you said and it’s good as new. Thanks for the info 👍👍👍 Took it out and cleaned it with contact cleaner like you said and it’s good as new. Thanks for the info 👍👍👍

I assume you mean the plug electrode is oil fouled? The EA888 is terrible for burning oil, for some odd reason the 1.8 is much worse than the 2.0, there is a redesigned piston which usually cures this but it is a lot of work.

I can't recall if I had that issue in the past but my MJ21 got 2 dedicated updates for the canton amplifier in the past due to whatever reasons. I think you should talk to your dealer about that issue and give him a little hint towards the canton amplifier software/firmware.

Before After Difference is subtle, unfortunately I haven't been able to get any great photos before and after. I'm happy with the ride comfort and it was definitely worth the effort however. Would I get the garage to do it if I had to do it again? Yes, but budget a good £500-600 for parts that would need replacing and labour needed.

But since it’s near to the abbey will it stock/sell Bucky too 😂

Are the daps included for scale or for fashion purposes?

79.7% of Briskoda posts from members changing their wheel/tyre combinations to larger sizes do it because they like the look. 81.3% of professional car reviewers say that the higher spec larger wheeled versions of a particular model ride worse than the cheaper smaller wheeled version. 87.2% of statistics are made up on the spot.