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They're trying to run rings around you clearly and take you for a ride. If they agree the problem was pre-existing they're caught by the statutory warranty provisions under consumer rights act. If it wasn't then one of the two warranty cover policies ought to cover it either by an override provision or both accepting a partial liability. I have never heard of an insurer saying because there is two policies that may cover it, then no cover applies. That make no sense. Perhaps the consumer right act is a clearer way to go, you'd have to prove the fault or the vulnerability was there from your purchase which would requie some indpendent engineering assessment. what is the actual fault in the TPI I couldn't find anything hits coming up on that? Probably rear main seal? Edit. found a russian TPI extract on 2051464/3 Translated from russian. Technical rationale The cause of this leakage is a thread defect (manufacturing) in the crankshaft cover for fastening the flywheel. As a result, an oil leak occurs, despite the sealing of the fastening bolts (see Fig. 2). An example in fig. 2 serves only as an aid in evaluating the establishment of an oil leak. In this case, oil leakage is caused by the formation of threads in the crankshaft cover. There is no leakage of the crankshaft cover itself (see Fig. 2, red oval)!

I fail to see how a pre-paid service agreement can be held to override a warranty issue - or have I misunderstood the 'All-In policy' bit? The Skoda Approved Used warranty should surely cover what appears to be a known TPI issue.

Hello and welcome Sounds unreasonable to me. It's a known issue, with a TPI. You've been sold an 'approved used' car, which is now faulty. In my opinion, I'd think this is their problem, and not yours. If it was sold to you with a pre-existing fault, surely it's for the seller to take remedial action, or am I missing something? I had a completely unrelated issue with a 2015 vRS, which I bought new. The one thing I learned is that I should have consulted Consumer Direct/Trading Standards before I entered into any further dialogue with Skoda. I won't be making that mistake again - a word to the wise. Gaz

Something a bit different... Red Mk3 l&k on bentley gtc alloys in stealth copper

I have sadly, if you dig deep down in the small print of I would say most if not all policies they say that cover is void if the item/risk is covered by another insurance policy. Nice work if you can get it 🙄 but immoral.

The thing is if sold a 2nd Warranty when you have a valid warranty, was someone Mis-selling' if that means you have no Warranty Cover. A question for the Warranty Providers, and the Seller, or their bosses. Mis-selling of a financial product.

My thoughts are how did Skoda Specialist Cars Dundee part of the John Clark Group deal with things. (I know how HAWCO might. Sh!tes.) Was this Skoda Approved Used Car Serviced to Manufacturers Recommendations, Guidelines, Specification or even Schedule when SSC,s Dundee put that Warranty on it? Was the VAQ diff serviced @ 3 years or 30,000 miles, or before they sold it to you? Get the Master Tech at Skoda Specialist Cars Dundee to support your Warranty Claim. Maybe an issue is Hawco were doing the Service, work and not helping yu/ Talk with the Dealer Principal in Dundee if you are not already, and if necessary, a Senior Management / Director of John Clark Motor Group. All done in writing, as well as in person. PS Once you get this all sorted, go for a day to Maud, Aberdeenshire and have Victoria Garage (Skoda) service and maintain your car.

Thanks for the replies Looking at the Consumer rights aspect and also chasing with Specialist Cars Dundee to see what they say. Can't say I'll be rushing back to Hawco anytime soon!

So are you saying that you have 2 warranties that should both cover this fault but neither will accept the claim because it is covered under another policy? And that you paid an extra premium to be shafted by them? Did they promote this extra warranty to you? It's exactly what insurance companies do so I should not be surprised that the warranty providers are onto the same scam.

Important milestone reached today with my MY2018 Mk3

I got two in a row if you can say that. The firs one took two days to complete (done only short trips).

@VRS245GreySorry but i do not understand what you mean. But maybe neither did the person. Skoda Approved used car and the Warranty is there in the T&C's. Like Judge Judy says ' within the 4 corners of the page'. Same goes with the 2nd Warrant / Insurance policy sold to you by whoever sold it to you. The T&C,s is what matters and what you were shown. Used Car Warranty. & All in Skoda Warranty. VWFS_11815379_SKODA_AUW_Booklet_0922E.pdf

Having a second opinion with John Clark in Aberdeen. Warranty wise, does seem a bit of poor deal, part of the reason why I didn't query it too much on purchase as it said there wouldnt be a "no claims" period due to its past history, but this is something I'm raising with them .

For that sort of usage & good value there is the MG Estate car, as used by Taxi Drivers / Private hire / Airport Transport. If you need bigger then there are Long Wheel Base EV's from Stellantis. But they have poor range sadly. PS When there are no cars suitable for your personal usage that run on battery power then you just accept they are not for you and wait a while or just ignore thoughts of EV's.

For general information, look at their prices. It was bad when AC were in Inverness, but why go to this bunch?

It's no wonder that confusion reigns - if you look up "Skoda Karoq cam-belt change" on Google - most references still say 5,000 miles. My dealer is Vindis in Bury St Edmunds, and I reckon they're pretty much on the ball.

As it is the Skoda Citigo iV (EV) would have been selling like hotcakes if Skoda UK were not only allowed to import 400. The New Small VW Group EV,s would sell like hotcakes if VW stopped bumping their gums about new tech and low prices and just produce the VW, SEAT, Skoda or Audi versions and sell them to the public. 'They need magic to happen and for them to some how conjure up some actual new tech & then sell cars at a loss.'

I would be looking towards cam/crank position sensor rather than an immob issue a good way of figuring this out would be with vcds live data checking if fueling or not on while cranking

So it is not the speed of cranking or how long the engine turns before firing but how long it takes your coolant and fuel guage needles to reach their position. If you were to just put the key in and start the engine you would not be aware of the anomoly, I appreciate that everyone has their own methods but I really dont think you have anything to be concerned about. I really dont think there is such a thing as "ignition speed" as you describe it for 99.99% of drivers of petrol engines, for a diesel with glowplugs it does exist.

Hello, welcome to the forum. This sounds to me as if it might be an intermittent problem with the immobiliser. Have you tried using the second key (if you have one) when this problem occurs?

Latest updated photos with one of the items that i’d had sitting in the garage finally fitted:

So braking wobble seems to be all but gone now. 🤞 Latest things done have been getting the sills, boot lid and front grille surround repainted and also replacing the EGR as it had been leaking for a little while. Boot and sills weren’t that bad but we thought we may as well get them done and grille surround needed doing as we had to get one off another car because i managed to break the original. 🫣

Depends a bit what you want from your 2 grand. My personal rule for bangernomics is spend half your budget and keep the other half in reserve for stuff going wrong. Were it me in that price range, I'd probably dodge the VRS and aim for something lower specced. There's nothing in particular wrong with the VRS, they're a nice car, they just tend to lead harder lives, that and the more basic Octavias tend to be owned by old people who are more likely to take stuff to a garage and get everything done that the garage quotes them for. Also, the more basic mk2's are tough old buses that don't mind getting used for things that would probably be more suited to your landrover. I dragged some heavy stuff with mine, carried all kinds of stuff, camped in it, hit some pretty big potholes and even had a couple of fun times doing a bit of fording.

Time flies.. I knew they were starting to be a bit old and have in fact not swapped back my summer wheels since winter 2022. Didn't realise it was going on 10y though! There's surprisingly little wear (I didn't make any long highway trips in the heat of summer) but my garage warned me that they had probably turned hard enough to lose efficiency on wet surfaces, let alone snow. This is making me wonder if I'm not simply going to put a set of all-season tyres on, and see if and how I can get rid of my summer tyres on the stock alloy rims. Which are probably 205/55/R16 or something of the sort; I prefer the comfort and more economical driving of the 195/65/R15 tyres I picked for winter, plus a narrower width is (supposedly but understandably) better in wet/snowy conditions. Not that we get many of those, but I'm too likely to find myself in places where winter tyres are now required by law part of the year. Has anyone ever noticed if winter tyres are less expensive in their off-season, idem for all-season ones? Or is it more likely that there'll be promos in autumn, as my garage suggested? I'm inclined to be a bit chauvinist this time and not get Hancooks but a set of Vredestein Quatracs. Anyone got experience with them? Cheapest I've seen them to date is just under 65€ a piece, which is about what I paid for my Hancook winter tyres 10y ago. Lastly: any reason to take 91V over 91H, or rather the opposite?

If anyone is looking to lower their Fabia I can recommend the above. My son has a 2017 1.0 Tsi Monte Carlo and from day 1 he has banged on about lowering the car. ( In my mid 50s I'm not a great advocate of lowering cars, but I have to admit that the standard set up does look a bit high - especially the rear) . With an advisory of a weeping rear shock on his MOT a couple of months ago, this was the excuse he needed and against my better judgement, ordered the above kit at just over £300. Now fitted it has transformed the cars handling - no body roll with the only compromise being a barely noticeable deterioration in comfort over rough surfaces. My wife has a 2016 Polo GTI which has fantastic handling but drive over Cats eye and your likely to loose a tooth filling. To be honest with a 35mm drop all round, the car does look better

yes if you have the percentage on the dash you are on some 3.x variant. In the wild now we have everything from 3.0 to 3,5 on the very latest cars

Oh nothing sinister there, by past history, I meant that it had been under Skoda warranty it’s entire life so the all in package explicitly stated I could make a claim from day one and didn’t have a 30 day no claim period that sometimes applies (apparently). Hence I didn’t expect any warranty claim issues!

Personally i think Performance cars should be taxed off the roads on the UK. Now with EV's and any new car even ICE,s the GPS can identify if on the public road and if exceeding 20% over the Speed Limit for the road it is on and NIP's could be sent automatically, as driving Fat / Wide Cars into congested areas, illegal parking etc. Speed limiters roadside would work well, but then ANPR goes not do its job properly. If the cars were chipped or legally insured and tested cars had ID Stickers on Screens or registration plates they could be immobilised at Filling Station / Charging Hubs, car parks etc. Big brother is coming and maybe in our lifetime. PS. First the 'Noise Cameras'. For reducing the 'Anti Social behaviour'. Maybe the stupid Abarth EV would fail.

PM

Excellent, a sane and savvy person who can see both sides of things and not get excited, well done. I do think that EVs have place and might well be the perfect answer for the future but have a long way to go yet. However I do not think that new ICE cars cannot can longer be sold from 2030 onwards is a good move. A better move might have been to put a ban on ICE cars over 2.5litres. Anyone wanting a performance car would need to look at EVs and the biggest polluters would be drastically reduced.

If it is the immobiliser sensor coil, I cured that on my Volvo S40 by moving the steering wheel position (while checking to see how easy it was to remove the cowl) and after that I never had any issues (possible poor connection or it moved slightly). However, when I tried to start the car with the fault it wouldn't turn over, just the immobiliser light flashing.

"EV appeasing media". 2nd video. Well it will all come out in the wash. So maybe better wait for the report. Maybe have a read of articles linked at the side of the article i linked in the last post of the previous page.

I'll send you a PM in a sec, with address details etc.

£2,500 seems like a lot to separate and remove the gearbox and replace the bolts with extra locking or sealing fluid. I'm not 100% sure if that quoted figure includes the replacement clutch and flywheel (just in case) but even if it does, it's an expensive clutch change without much in the way of extra work than would normally be done for a clutch and flywheel change anyway. But agree, the primary issue is "who's problem is it" as the OP has asked. I do have a lingering question as to how genuine is Hawco is, or could they be speculatively raising this? Did you see the extent of the oil leak between the gearbox and engine. They can't see in there without dismantling so they can't be 100% sure what it is yet, but understandably refer to a TPI if it appears to fit and point to it...

Unfortunately I don't have VCDS, but I do have a Vgate iCar Pro (bluetooth) and Car Scanner (Android). Here are the codes from today: Car Scanner ELM OBD2 Version: 1.99.5/400995/GP DTC report Connection profile: Skoda OBD-II / EOBD 1.0L-2.0L TSI/TFSI CAN-UDS + AT/DSG (PQ26, MQB, MLB, MSB, etc.)Date: 18/08/2023 12:28:55 VIN: ============================ OBD-II No DTC found. ============================ 19. CAN Gateway No DTC found. ============================ 09. Onboard supply control unit No DTC found. ============================ 01. Engine control unit01. Engine control unit DTCs: 1 ---------------------------- 11003 [0x002AFB] Archive (inactive) P044100: EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.Incorrect, Purge Flow EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.Incorrect Purge Flow P044100: EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.Incorrect, Purge Flow Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle ============================ 08. Heater and climate No DTC found. ============================ 10. Parking Assistant 2 No DTC found. ============================ 15. SRS No DTC found. ============================ 17. Dashboard No DTC found. ============================ 25. Immobilizer No DTC found. ============================ 56. Head unit (MMI) (VW TP2.0)56. Head unit (MMI) (VW TP2.0) DTCs: 1 ---------------------------- 00821 [0x0335] Antenna 2 radio-R93; Antenna 2 for radio R93; Engine speed sender-G28 malfunction Status: Pending fault present, Pending fault present during this driving cycle, Test is inhibited by other DTC, Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request ============================ 76. Parking assistant No DTC found. I noticed these things: 1. 11003 is new... but a quick search leads me to believe that this shouldn't prevent the engine from firing 2. 00821 could be about the radio's antenna (like I wrote in the OP), but could also be about the engine speed sender (sensor?), just like @thomasaspin suggests. I feel a bit silly for missing that, that's almost certainly it, right? If so, is this a big job to replace? Please guide me towards the right part to order and roughly where it is under the bonnet.

Opening the drivers door primes the fuel when the car has been sat an hour or 3 or longer. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/217514-motor-noise-upon-opening-drivers-door-but-not-the-other-doors

On the contrary, unless I have misunderstood what you wrote it suggests to me that the problem is definitely the RFID chip of the key you are using not being recognised. It could be that the other key is even worse and will never start the vehicle, that does not mean its another fault, I believe the RFID coil around the ignition switch is misplaced or has a weak field, the original worn key would have become problematic, the spare behaving better, as always these problems get worse over time.

Looking more closely at the two keys, the key that I've deemed the spare key appears to be more worn. So I think the previous owner was using this one as their main one. Knowing that the previous owner was already experiencing this problem I don't think the key is the problem. In any case, I'll still try the swap next time the problem presents, as it's worth a shot.

This is still not concrete evidence by your own terms of reference, it needs to written by a couple a professors 😆😆 I'll wait for the official report to confirm the actual cause. Personally I hope no EVs were involved at all, it would improve confidence in them.

I've noticed an uptick in junk over the last month or so, makes me think some filter has been removed prior to being sold back to us. Most of what I'm seeing is so poor the filters from 15yr ago would screen no problem which is what makes me think it's being allowed through deliberately.

Hi Guys an update on the Yeti door trims.... After doing the work sticking the trims on with the 3M tape, after a week or so, I was not impressed with the level of adhesion. It was better than I had before but I wasn't happy with it. the trims were not completely stuck so I took them off which was amazingly easy to do. I cleaned up the doors and the trims and reapplied them using some tiger seal. WOW what a difference. They are really stuck on now !!! Using the tiger seal was a doddle and any slight excesses came off easily with a paper towel moistened with Methylated spirit. Job done properly now .. Many thanks all especially 137699 for suggesting the Tigerseal.

Hey, The garage that did the head repair and fitted new cambelt etc was an independent. The torsion value is currently -2.9 which is where it was when the dealer did the belt six or so years ago. I haven't been tempted to adjust this yet, but have been advised a value slightly positive is best for best power. The lift pump was noted as weak when the main dealer replaced the tandem pump under warranty or as the tech put it ‘borderline’ but not replaceable under warranty as still deemed ok. The reason I’m now looking at the in tank pump is that after the independent doing the head work and associated parts, they never replaced the tandem pump gasket which resulted in a whole lot of oil in the fuel, filter and tank. The screen on the lift pump was pretty grotty. I realise the mix of independent and main dealer is confusing in my ramblings so I apologise, hopefully this will help: 1) main dealer replaced tandem pump and said lift pump borderline. 2) independent 1 did timing belt and stripped threads. Didn’t use the stud Vw supply to fix this problem and instead fitted some contraption of a bolt and bodged the repair. 18 months later bolt sheared at 70mph. Independent didn’t want to know. 3) independent 2 who did the head work. Didn’t replace tandem pump gasket when repairing car. Replaced when I had running issues and showed him fuel filter black. Job was quoted to be around the cost of replacement second hand engine fitted but ended up being double - had i known it would cost so much I would have opted for a replacement engine. The fact that I knew how the car had been driven and serviced for the last 60k miles made me opt to fix the current lump. I have no faith in the car but still love the stupid thing. thanks again for your time and reply

Alps in Switzerland

Oh yeahhhh, photographs! The car is also running Alpine speakers in the front now. Much better response than the Pioneers I had fitted previously, especially on the MS502 which can seriously drive out the power. So I've done nearly 1,000 miles with this car since it was returned to the road. Mileage is going up steadily as I'm helping out a bit with my best mate moving and other errands since his Mum passed. As a thank you for not imploding, I have given the car a wash. Even removed the "tat" from the inside somewhat so I can properly clean it before adding back all the essentials. The bodywork close up is getting really poor on the car, given my mostly fast A-road, dual-carriageway/motorway mileage it's acquired stone chips and other foibles that let the paintwork down. Think a fella I know will be breaking a fairly clean Mk1 in Flamenco Red like this one, so hoping I can get some panels to improve the state of mine somewhat. That's a job for future me, however. In the meantime I need a new boot floor as the other has warped. So going to get some of the early black boot carpeting for my car. Anyways, here's the clean-ish interior, which I'm aiming to get the black carpet for as well. Oh yeah, and my footrest, in a photo that was taken prior to washing the car. So yeah, I think that's everything. But as a "rolling project/resto" this car is doing pretty well considering I'm launching the mileage at it. In the meantime enjoy a photo from Skodafest that had come up on my Facebook courtesy of my mate Ryan.

Been playing with the new gadget, a dragy gps timer. Done about 30 0-60 runs, best was sub 8 but slightly over the downhill allowanace of 1%, other best run was 8.05 secs slightly uphill, and just over 16secs 1/4 mile best. Remap on Monday to see how it improves Temp.mp4

I checked it last week, was spot on, but I will check it tomorrow. I check it weekly as its a TSI. Thank you.

also interested, start and stop is one of the most anoying thing ever created in the human history 😁

Reboots don't cause any harm to the module - the only harm done is to the owners patience and Skoda's reputation.

Possibly specced different in different country's- that list does say Europe/Russia, but the UK fabia vrs 100% had 205/45 . . I owned one for almost 13 years. . .Still have the oem wheels in storage.